Best Plasti Dip method?

[AllHokage]

So I'm about to plastidip some PC part's and want to know what is the best method. I heard to do 5 coats (first 2 light, 3 heavy and wait 20mins between each one). Also if I'm doing colored plastidip is it better to do first 2 black and rest in color? Just seen alot of stuff around the web saying different stuff.

 

Never painted something so expensive (so I wan't it to look good)

Thanks

[W-L]

So I'm about to plastidip some PC part's and want to know what is the best method. I heard to do 5 coats (first 2 light, 3 heavy and wait 20mins between each one). Also if I'm doing colored plastidip is it better to do first 2 black and rest in color? Just seen alot of stuff around the web saying different stuff.

Never painted something so expensive (so I wan't it to look good)

Thanks

 

I have a guide that goes into depth here about the two main finishes you can get with plasti-dip:

http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/14-case-modding-and-other-mods/

[AllHokage]

I have a guide that goes into depth here about the two main finishes you can get with plasti-dip:

http://linustechtips.com/main/forum/14-case-modding-and-other-mods/

Seen it, Just getting other peoples options (everyone has their own way).

Do I just plastidip the same color (as I heard always use black for first 2 coats/then color)?

[W-L]

Seen it, Just getting other peoples options (everyone has their own way).

Do I just plastidip the same color (as I heard always use black for first 2 coats/then color)?

 

It depends on what color your going to, if you want to get very good coloring of the top coat going to black or white undercoat can help, I find it not too necessary as long as you can build up enough thickness since it's opaque.

 

In general when I did plasti-dip I tried to get an orange peel finish throughout but had a few spots with a sandpaper/flocked finish where I didn't get enough paint down.

[AllHokage]

It depends on what color your going to, if you want to get very good coloring of the top coat going to black or white undercoat can help, I find it not too necessary as long as you can build up enough thickness since it's opaque.

 

In general when I did plasti-dip I tried to get an orange peel finish throughout but had a few spots with a sandpaper/flocked finish where I didn't get enough paint down.

I'm trying to get a smooth Finnish, I got a red/black can currently. As doing some parts black and some red. (so guessing I should do 2 black coats for the red Finnish)

[Sam Z Man]

First lay down a Base Coats, if you want a dark color use a black base coat, if you want a light color use white as a base coat.

 

When base-coats completely covers object with a perfectly even finish, apply as many coats of color as it takes to get desired color.

 

Use light coats always, with long strokes perfectly parallel with can always positioned perpendicular to surface and half overlap each previous stroke, at a height from the surface at whatever the can suggests.

 

Try not to paint in temperatures bellow 15 celcius, above 23 is ideal.

[W-L]

I'm trying to get a smooth Finnish, I got a red/black can currently. As doing some parts black and some red. (so guessing I should do 2 black coats for the red Finnish)

 

Well your base is already black so i don't think you would really have problems just going to red.

 

For a smooth finish parts laying it on heavy and so it's evenly wet tends to be the best way to get a flat finish, plasti-dip dries a lot quicker than your regular spray paint so things move a fair bit quicker than regular spray paint. I would suggest trying it on one part first to get the technique down and feel for the material before doing all of it at once.

[AllHokage]

First lay down a Base Coats, if you want a dark color use a black base coat, if you want a light color use white as a base coat.

 

When base-coats completely covers object with a perfectly even finish, apply as many coats of color as it takes to get desired color.

 

Use light coats always, with long strokes perfectly parallel with can always positioned perpendicular to surface and half overlap each previous stroke, at a height from the surface at whatever the can suggests.

 

Try not to paint in temperatures bellow 15 celcius, above 23 is ideal.

Thanks for the guide

 

Arrr but I'm painting parts of my GPU (Parts of Backplate/front cover strips) and HDD... I guess it will be ok...

[AllHokage]

Here is what I'm plasti dipping, think temps will be alright?\

 

http://imgur.com/oZawfnL

[W-L]

Here is what I'm plasti dipping, think temps will be alright?\

http://imgur.com/oZawfnL

 

It shouldn't be a problem as long since your not planning on coating the heatsink, the backplate does provide a bit of incidental cooling but more to stiffen the card and make it look better than anything else.

 

EDIT: I would recommend to take apart the accent to paint them however since it would be a paint masking all of it. 

Edited December 10, 2015 by W-L

[Sam Z Man]

Here is what I'm plasti dipping, think temps will be alright?\

 

http://imgur.com/oZawfnL

 

Take the backplate and shroud off when painting it and good luck masking off that dragoon, personally I would just do the entire backplate flat black.

[Forb]

Dont buy cheep home brand names, get the real thing.

I used a alternative band from a local store and it MELTED the plastic parts of the case

.

Also, im prety sure the temps will be fine, real plast dip is automotive grade and stand a lot of heat. 

[AllHokage]

Dont buy cheep home brand names, get the real thing.

I used a alternative band from a local store and it MELTED the plastic parts of the case

.

Also, im prety sure the temps will be fine, real plast dip is automotive grade and stand a lot of heat. 

Finding home branded plastidip here will be impossible

[Forb]

Well, thats a blessing

Either way, make sure u do a tiny test spot on any plastic parts, then wait a little while to see if THIS happens