Need help, Gigabyte MOBO stuck in boot loop

[DankMemes420]

I recently brought an old computer back to life using the original ram (Corsair Vengeance 16GB ddr3 1600Mhz, xfx r7870 DD, Corsair CX600, Cooler Master Hyper 212 evo, 250GB laptop HDD for OS [250GB SSD in the mail, going to clone the OS to that when it arrives], 1TB WD black for storage), and a new motherboard and CPU.

Purchased an i5 4590 and a gigabyte z97 HD3 (Rev 2.0,not sure on version of bios, as I can't even get into it, however, it's not a compatibility issue with any of the hardware, as it worked previously)

When the parts arrived (Wednesday of last week), I breadboarded it, using an old 500w power supply to test it first. Successfully installed Windows 10, been playing GTA V on it since. Today, I shut it down in order to flip the power supply around (as the PSU's fan was facing up, towards the GPU), hook up a 3rd HDD, along with a 120mm case fan.

When I completed this, I plugged the system back in and hit the power button, only to find that the system would not post. I opened the case again (removing the 120mm fan I installed in the process as it is on the case's side panel)

The system continuously reboots, fans start up, HDDS spin, then everything dies, and it reboots once again.

First, I disconnected all hard drives, thinking perhaps the additional HDD was drawing too much from the PSU. Still not posting.

Removed the GPU, and attempted to get it to post by plugging my monitor into the HDMI port powered by the on-board graphics, still nothing

Tried it with that 500w PSU that I had tested the board with when I got it. Same exact issue.

I re-seated the ram, heatsink and CPU, still nothing.

WTF?

-Yes, the 8 pin cpu power IS connected

-Yes, When I had the GPU installed, the 2x6 PCIE power was connected

-Yes, the power switch functions

-Yes, I tried resetting CMOS via the CMOS header, removing the CMOS battery for several minutes than reinstalling, and shorting the battery connectors for 5 seconds as stated in the user manual.

-Yes, I tried a spare stick of known working ram.

-NO, the CPU pins on the motherboard do not look bent.

I also left the system powered on, hoping it would work it's way out of the boot loop for roughly a half hour.

Edit: The board also has a light to show the separation between the audio section of the board, and the rest of the board. I did not tweak ANY settings in the bios, including the setting to disable this light. The light does not come on, EXCEPT when I shut the system off via the PSU's switch at just the right time and the motherboard attempts to restart, drawing residual power from the PSU's capacitors.

[GhostRiot]

Is it throwing a post code or anything before it resets? Not sure if your mobo has a reader on it or not. Also are you able to get into bios or will it not even let you that far?

[DankMemes420]

Is it throwing a post code or anything before it resets? Not sure if your mobo has a reader on it or not. Also are you able to get into bios or will it not even let you that far?

Doesn't have a reader built in and I don't currently have a case speaker for boot messages. Can't get into bios

[GhostRiot]

If you have a powersupply tester, Id test both of those power supplies. You've already eliminated most of the variables, but Id keep troubleshooting with the gfx card and HDDs out of the system. Try to at least get it into bios and then start focusing on getting it to boot into an OS , if you cant even get to bios its got to be either the power supply or the mobo. I know this is a silly question, but I have to ask, the back of the mobo isnt making any metal on metal contact? All the standoffs in place? Nothing stuck back there?

[DankMemes420]

All the standoffs in place? Nothing stuck back there?

I removed the MOBO from the case and placed it in its box just to make sure. My guess is that it's the motherboard, as it's kinda weird that BOTH PSUs are having the same exact issue.

I've already contacted Gigabyte Support, I'll just have to wait till (hopefully) tomorrow for a response.

[GhostRiot]

It may be weird unless a short in the mobo killed both of the PSUs. If its under warranty that's definitely the direction Id go, you pretty much already took it as far as you can go... but if its a dead board wont matter lol. Well best of luck, that sucks man. How old is it?

[DankMemes420]

It may be weird unless a short in the mobo killed both of the PSUs. If its under warranty that's definitely the direction Id go, you pretty much already took it as far as you can go... but if its a dead board wont matter lol. Well best of luck, that sucks man. How old is it?

I've had the board for a grand total of exactly a week. I don't have a PSU tester, but I had previously been using the 500w as a temporary solution to power a fan I rigged up in a tube guitar amp. Used a breadboard jumper to short the green and black wires to turn it on, was able to power the fan in the amp without either fans turning on and off. I'll try the 600w later.

[GhostRiot]

A bad PSU can still power some basic appliances, but it doesnt mean it can properly power a PC. Ive had plenty of psu's that will light up if you jump the pins and plug it in, but will not power a system. Powersupply testers are cheap, but if you have access to another psu Id def give that a shot. Maybe just bring the mobo to a friends house and plug it into his psu, see if it posts.

Only reason I say is if you rma that mobo, they get it, and it posts, they are gonna ship it straight back to you and youll be out however much $$$ for shipping.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16899706001&cm_re=psu_tester-_-99-706-001-_-Product

[LabRat]

you say that it did run outside the case and now it doesn't ( still outside ?)...

 

the only drive hooked up should be the opsys drive.

 

1stick of ram farthest from the cpu.

 

pull graphics card/hook to mb.

[DankMemes420]

you say that it did run outside the case and now it doesn't ( still outside ?)...

the only drive hooked up should be the opsys drive.

1stick of ram farthest from the cpu.

pull graphics card/hook to mb.

I had tested it before installing it in the case when I received the motherboard.

Installed it in the case, used it successfully.

Issue presented itself after flipping the PSU so it's fan would draw cool air from underneath the case as opposed to drawing air from the gpu directly above it.

Removed the MOBO from the case, set it up inside the box it was packaged in to ensure there was nothing shorting any of the solder pads on the back of the board.

As I said, the system had been running perfectly fine for a full week.

One thing I will mention is that playing GTA V, I had VSYNC on, to limit the fps to 60 as the gpu fans were getting much too loud with it off. (averaging around 125 fps with most settings cranked)

The day prior to this issue, I noticed the system struggling to keep the fps consistent, sometimes dropping to ~20, but I dismissed it as I had been screwing around with graphics settings, and upon switching them back to how I had them, the lag spikes (almost) disappeared. Not sure if that has anything at all to do with the board or not. It's an old gpu, I'm shocked it was even able to run GTA with the settings so high at playable frame rates. Seems like it's most limiting factor is that it only has 2gb from VRAM

Yes, I've tried removing one of the sticks of my dual channel ram, and tried the other in every single dim.

Like I said, I pulled the gpu, and attempted to get the system to post using just the on board graphics.

[LabRat]

half your ram is being used by the system itself. need more.

 

need a good PS.

 

might not want to recognize the opsys on  hd.

 

wrong ram.

 

could be a real crappy mb. ............

[GhostRiot]

half your ram is being used by the system itself. need more.

 

need a good PS.

 

might not want to recognize the opsys on  hd.

 

wrong ram.

 

could be a real crappy mb. ............

Vram and ram are not the same thing. Your system does not draw on vram to run.. by that logic you couldn't run a pc without a gfx card lol. Also you dont need a hard drive to boot into bios. If he cant get into bios you can basically rule out any devices outside of the mobo, psu and processor. Hence why typically youd just remove everything else and add components till things stop working.

[LabRat]

you did read the part where he says he has only 2gigs of system ram?

 

anyways, the mb is junk.

[DankMemes420]

you did read the part where he says he has only 2gigs of system ram?

anyways, the mb is junk.

Late reply, I know, but no, I don't have 2gb of system ram, I have 16. I said that I pulled that ram and tried a known working 2gb stick just to verify

[LabRat]

and if you run it with only the Hd with the opsys installed........??

 

and set to boot as first boot device..??

 

dvd-rom second

 

disable 3rd.

[DankMemes420]

and if you run it with only the Hd with the opsys installed........??

and set to boot as first boot device..??

dvd-rom second

disable 3rd.

The system wouldn't post at all. ie, could not adjust boot device settings. The board is currently in the mail to newegg, when they receive it, they'll ship out a new one