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Sport photos help/ moving targets

I'm looking to try and get photos with a focused for ground of my target (my cousin), and a blurred background. I'm trying to find information on how I can do this effectively but there is lots of information.

What I want to know is what setting in a range are the best, I keep seeing around 1/250 shutter to 500 but I've found nothing good about aperture.

Can anyone help me please

I own a Canon 550D with one 18-55mm lens that goes to f3.5 and a 55-250 which is 5 to 22 I belive.

Thanks, all help will be great.

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Use the longest lens you can (in this case 55-250 at 250mm), the widest aperature (smallest f-stop number), and a very fast shutter speed to eliminate motion blur. 

 

The longer your lens + the closer you are to the subject + the wider your aperture = the more depth of field.

RIP in pepperonis m8s

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Use the longest lens you can (in this case 55-250 at 250mm), the widest aperature (smallest f-stop number), and a very fast shutter speed to eliminate motion blur.

The longer your lens + the closer you are to the subject + the wider your aperture = the more depth of field.

Awesome!

Do u have an recommendations on lens with low aperture but good zoom like 55 or 75 to say 200 or 300mm? I want to see what I need to spend to e

Get something mid to high range.

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Awesome!

Do u have an recommendations on lens with low aperture but good zoom like 55 or 75 to say 200 or 300mm? I want to see what I need to spend to e

Get something mid to high range.

Canon 70-200 F4 non IS would probably be your next lens at around $400-600 (buy used if you can), 70-200 F2.8's are well over $1000. 

The sharpness difference between the 55-250 and 70-200 is pretty substantial, especially wide open (widest aperture, smallest f-stop number). 

RIP in pepperonis m8s

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Canon 70-200 F4 non IS would probably be your next lens at around $400-600 (buy used if you can), 70-200 F2.8's are well over $1000.

The sharpness difference between the 55-250 and 70-200 is pretty substantial, especially wide open (widest aperture, smallest f-stop number).

That's interesting, I didn't know there was a massive difference. I always thought they'd be similar in nature. So I know to look for a lower aperture, but it's gonna be better for me to get 75 or 50?say I've got around £500 for a new lens what do u think I could get.

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Practice swiveling - i.e. physically tracking your subject in motion, while you are taking pics simultaneously. Since you have a 550D you can just burst your way through a series of photos and review results immediately. Most sports photographers - especially for motorsports - are (and need to be) proficient at it. 

 

Not only will you be a better photographer because of it, but your backgrounds will be blurred with almost any settings.

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Did you use AI Servo instead of One Shot? 

 

What about an EF 85mm f/1.8 USM or EF 100mm f/2 USM?

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i would say, put your camera in P nearly same as automatic, but less restricted and it adapts where needed, when done browse through your pictures and see what the settings are of the ones that you like.

I would suggest to keep at least the shutter speed or diafragma on automatic (Tv and Av) since you basically keep moving with the lens, which makes it pretty hard to photograph in M the whole time, because you might switch focal length and/or distance every now and then.

 

and on lenses, use the one that gives the highest focal length or the biggest play, tele zoom is better for sports sometimes, since it allows for a wide angle and small angle, which gives a bit more freedom.

May the light have your back and your ISO low.

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what sports is your cousin doing anyways?

Well he's 5 so running with friends, and playing about, fighting you know kids.

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i would say, put your camera in P nearly same as automatic, but less restricted and it adapts where needed, when done browse through your pictures and see what the settings are of the ones that you like.

I would suggest to keep at least the shutter speed or diafragma on automatic (Tv and Av) since you basically keep moving with the lens, which makes it pretty hard to photograph in M the whole time, because you might switch focal length and/or distance every now and then.

and on lenses, use the one that gives the highest focal length or the biggest play, tele zoom is better for sports sometimes, since it allows for a wide angle and small angle, which gives a bit more freedom.

I've started to use a and TV but noticed the shutter speed on av can be so low sometimes it causes unwanted blur :/. I don't have p from what I can see, not unless u mean M. Well I wanted something maybe with a decent f stop just so I can get background blur.

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CASE: Fractal Design R4 w/Window CPU: Intel 4930K,  RAM: 16GB Ripjaws Z 2133Mhz  Cooling: H100i  MotherBoard: Asus P9x79 Pro , PSU: CS750M   Storage: 2x Samsung 840 Pro 256Gb , 1Tb Seagate Barracuda, 500GB WD Black,  Graphics: Gigabyte GTX 780 Windforce 3GB,  Monitors: AOC G2460PG ( G sync monitor), Edge10 24" 1080p , 24" 1680*1020p monitor ( LCD)  Microphone: Blue Yeti  Keyboard: Cougar 700k  Phone: Samsung Note 3  Headphones: Sennheiser HD598

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I've started to use a and TV but noticed the shutter speed on av can be so low sometimes it causes unwanted blur :/. I don't have p from what I can see, not unless u mean M. Well I wanted something maybe with a decent f stop just so I can get background blur.

There is a P mode, it goes M, AV, TV P

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I've started to use a and TV but noticed the shutter speed on av can be so low sometimes it causes unwanted blur :/. I don't have p from what I can see, not unless u mean M. Well I wanted something maybe with a decent f stop just so I can get background blur.

 

That is weird, that should only happen in situations where light on the focussed object is low or hard see.

don't have that problem myself, sounds weird if it isn't due to the light amount.

May the light have your back and your ISO low.

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That is weird, that should only happen in situations where light on the focussed object is low or hard see.

don't have that problem myself, sounds weird if it isn't due to the light amount.

i found that was because i wasn't changing the expose and telling my camera to under or over expose the picture and it solved that problem :)

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i found that was because i wasn't changing the expose and telling my camera to under or over expose the picture and it solved that problem :)

 

that's good to know, its weird how sometimes we can overlook simple things.

May the light have your back and your ISO low.

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Did you use AI Servo instead of One Shot? 

 

What about an EF 85mm f/1.8 USM or EF 100mm f/2 USM?

those lens seem good, but having the ability to zoom is very useful for me, i do tend to stay around 180-250 but when i need the 50mm or 75 it comes in very useful. 

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CASE: Fractal Design R4 w/Window CPU: Intel 4930K,  RAM: 16GB Ripjaws Z 2133Mhz  Cooling: H100i  MotherBoard: Asus P9x79 Pro , PSU: CS750M   Storage: 2x Samsung 840 Pro 256Gb , 1Tb Seagate Barracuda, 500GB WD Black,  Graphics: Gigabyte GTX 780 Windforce 3GB,  Monitors: AOC G2460PG ( G sync monitor), Edge10 24" 1080p , 24" 1680*1020p monitor ( LCD)  Microphone: Blue Yeti  Keyboard: Cougar 700k  Phone: Samsung Note 3  Headphones: Sennheiser HD598

Laptop:

 CPU: 
4710MQ  Ram: 8GB 1600MHz Storage:120Gb 840 Evo + 1Tb 5400Rpm HDD  Graphics: GTX 850M 2GB   Screen: 1080p IPS  
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