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So my only concern now is that the sub itself has an amp in it, and that's how it plays the lower frequencies? Right? And the output would then also be amped and sent to an amp and be amped again before going to the speakers. Or does the subwoofer act more like, computer speakers, like, it doesn't amp it, its just able to read and use those lower amped(?) Signals?

The sub I posted is run by itself at 80w. running the speaker wire to it and back out does not power it or take power, it just transfers the signal so that you can crossover the bass.

I am wondering if somebody could find me a small amp that doesn't cost much, is able to push 2 mb42Xs and a subwoofer. Maybe even a center audio like the mb42X-c. Not a requirement though.

 

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Lepai 2020A+ and make sure your sub is amped.

The lepai 2020A+ only has L/R and no sub. I don't see how I'd hook it up.

 

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The lepai 2020A+ only has L/R and no sub. I don't see how I'd hook it up.

You go to the sub first and then to the amp. That's why I said make sure your sub is powered. That's the proper way to do it anyway if you don't have a receiver. 

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You go to the sub first and then to the amp. That's why I said make sure your sub is powered. That's the proper way to do it anyway if you don't have a receiver.

I have a set of z313s I think the power goes to the sub and then out to speakers through a 3.5mm jack. Would that sub work? Or is it better to get a separate powered sub for the sound quality? Can you reccomend something?

 

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I have a set of z313s I think the power goes to the sub and then out to speakers through a 3.5mm jack. Would that sub work? Or is it better to get a separate powered sub for the sound quality? Can you reccomend something?

Oh I was under the impression you had passive speakers. No for the Z313 you just plug it into your motherboard. Nothing you get will help it. 

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Oh I was under the impression you had passive speakers. No for the Z313 you just plug it into your motherboard. Nothing you get will help it.

I'm not trying to help it. I'm trying to replace it. I'm just looking for an amp that has upgrade ability if I want in the future. I may want to go beyond 2.0

 

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I'm not trying to help it. I'm trying to replace it. I'm just looking for an amp that has upgrade ability if I want in the future. I may want to go beyond 2.0

Those speakers are not compatible with another amp. If it's broken you're just going to have to get whole new speakers. 

 

Edit: Finally understood what you're saying. If you want to get something that can handle more than 2.0, you're going to need a receiver which are not cheap and are not small. You might as well get the Lepai now and if you do upgrade in the future, pick up a receiver. 

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Those speakers are not compatible with another amp. If it's broken you're just going to have to get whole new speakers.

Edit: Finally understood what you're saying. If you want to get something that can handle more than 2.0, you're going to need a receiver which are not cheap and are not small. You might as well get the Lepai now and if you do upgrade in the future, pick up a receiver.

Finally understood. Thank you. I'm relatively new to the audio world, so I'll just pick a receiver up when I feel like adding more to my setup. I'll go with the lepai right now. Thank you.

 

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Just to clarify, do you mean that you're gonna ditch your current setup, and going for a passive 2.0 system, but looking for an amp for future adding a sub?

 

Lepai also produce a 2.1 amp (2 channels + 1 sub), something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO

 

There are other generic China brands that make small 2.1 amps. Try ebay. 

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Just to clarify, do you mean that you're gonna ditch your current setup, and going for a passive 2.0 system, but looking for an amp for future adding a sub?

 

Lepai also produce a 2.1 amp (2 channels + 1 sub), something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO

 

There are other generic China brands that make small 2.1 amps. Try ebay. 

I heard that the 2.1 amp from Lepai is bad and the only really good amp from them is the 2020A+

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I heard that the 2.1 amp from Lepai is bad and the only really good amp from them is the 2020A+

 

Kinda read that also. And the reason for that is because the only class-T amp (or tripath) they produce is the 2020A+. In other words, they're not very good at producing other class amps. 

 

Well, perhaps when the time comes, OP could pick up another 2020A+, wire it to mono, and use it specifically for the sub?

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Kinda read that also. And the reason for that is because the only class-T amp (or tripath) they produce is the 2020A+. In other words, they're not very good at producing other class amps. 

 

Well, perhaps when the time comes, OP could pick up another 2020A+, wire it to mono, and use it specifically for the sub?

A powered sub would be a better way to go. You can go to the sub first and then to the amp. One that has crossfade or w/e those settings are called would be a bonus. 

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A powered sub would be a better way to go. You can go to the sub first and then to the amp. One that has crossfade or w/e those settings are called would be a bonus. 

 

But then the OP gotta find a sub with a decent built-in amp, and if the sub comes later, then when that time comes, the 2020A+ won't be used anymore. Well, can be treated as a backup/emergency amp, I suppose.

 

Edit: missed a few words. So the amp will still be used. Yeah sounds like a good plan.

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But then the OP gotta find a sub with a decent built-in amp, and if the sub comes later, then when that time comes, the 2020A+ won't be used anymore. Well, can be treated as a backup/emergency amp, I suppose.

Edit: missed a few words. So the amp will still be used. Yeah sounds like a good plan.

OK. To clarify, you're agreeing I should go with the 2020a+? And then run a powered sub to the amp, to the mb42Xs?

 

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Moreover do you guys have a recommendation for a powered sub?

 

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Get the 2020a+ you will be fine as long as you get a powered sub. I do not know where you are, but if you are in the USA I would suggest looking at the Dayton subs. They are a very good bang for the buck (I run a 10" for my desk setup, and a 12" for my theater room). I might also suggest looking at this. He has helped me a lot when it came to learning about speakers.

Internets Machine: Intel 4690k w/ Be Quiet! Pure Rock 4.7Ghz. MSI Krait z97. 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport Ram. MSI GTX 970 SLI 1520mhz. 500GB Samsung EVO 840  & 3TB WD Blue Drive. Rosewill 1000w Modular PSU. Corsair Air 540

My Beats Yo: Desktop:SMSL SA-160 Amp, KEF Q100 w/ Dayton 100w Sub Theater: Micca MB42X-C x3, MB42X x2, COVO-S x2 w/Dayton 120w Sub Headphones:  HIFiMan HE-400i, PSB M4U2, Philips Fidelio X2, Modded Fostex T50RP, ATH-M50, NVX XPT100, Phillips SHP9500, Pioneer SE-A1000, Hyper X Cloud 1&2, CHC Silverado, Superlux 668B

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Get the 2020a+ you will be fine as long as you get a powered sub. I do not know where you are, but if you are in the USA I would suggest looking at the Dayton subs. They are a very good bang for the buck (I run a 10" for my desk setup, and a 12" for my theater room). I might also suggest looking at this. He has helped me a lot when it came to learning about speakers.

Do you have a specific sub in mind from Dayton for around 100$ or less? Powered of course, that would work with this setup.

 

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Do you have a specific sub in mind from Dayton for around 100$ or less? Powered of course, that would work with this setup.

For a desk setup I am pretty sure you will be fine with their 8" sub I have the 10" sub and I have the gained turned to about a 1/4. You can see my "guide" for building a budget desk audio setup for under $200 USD here. The sub has actually gotten cheaper since I have written that.

Internets Machine: Intel 4690k w/ Be Quiet! Pure Rock 4.7Ghz. MSI Krait z97. 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport Ram. MSI GTX 970 SLI 1520mhz. 500GB Samsung EVO 840  & 3TB WD Blue Drive. Rosewill 1000w Modular PSU. Corsair Air 540

My Beats Yo: Desktop:SMSL SA-160 Amp, KEF Q100 w/ Dayton 100w Sub Theater: Micca MB42X-C x3, MB42X x2, COVO-S x2 w/Dayton 120w Sub Headphones:  HIFiMan HE-400i, PSB M4U2, Philips Fidelio X2, Modded Fostex T50RP, ATH-M50, NVX XPT100, Phillips SHP9500, Pioneer SE-A1000, Hyper X Cloud 1&2, CHC Silverado, Superlux 668B

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For a desk setup I am pretty sure you will be fine with their 8" sub I have the 10" sub and I have the gained turned to about a 1/4. You can see my "guide" for building a budget desk audio setup for under $200 USD here. The sub has actually gotten cheaper since I have written that.

So my only concern now is that the sub itself has an amp in it, and that's how it plays the lower frequencies? Right? And the output would then also be amped and sent to an amp and be amped again before going to the speakers. Or does the subwoofer act more like, computer speakers, like, it doesn't amp it, its just able to read and use those lower amped(?) Signals?

 

G3258 V 860k (Spoiler: G3258 wins)

 

 

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So my only concern now is that the sub itself has an amp in it, and that's how it plays the lower frequencies? Right? And the output would then also be amped and sent to an amp and be amped again before going to the speakers. Or does the subwoofer act more like, computer speakers, like, it doesn't amp it, its just able to read and use those lower amped(?) Signals?

The sub I posted is run by itself at 80w. running the speaker wire to it and back out does not power it or take power, it just transfers the signal so that you can crossover the bass.

Internets Machine: Intel 4690k w/ Be Quiet! Pure Rock 4.7Ghz. MSI Krait z97. 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport Ram. MSI GTX 970 SLI 1520mhz. 500GB Samsung EVO 840  & 3TB WD Blue Drive. Rosewill 1000w Modular PSU. Corsair Air 540

My Beats Yo: Desktop:SMSL SA-160 Amp, KEF Q100 w/ Dayton 100w Sub Theater: Micca MB42X-C x3, MB42X x2, COVO-S x2 w/Dayton 120w Sub Headphones:  HIFiMan HE-400i, PSB M4U2, Philips Fidelio X2, Modded Fostex T50RP, ATH-M50, NVX XPT100, Phillips SHP9500, Pioneer SE-A1000, Hyper X Cloud 1&2, CHC Silverado, Superlux 668B

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The sub I posted is run by itself at 80w. running the speaker wire to it and back out does not power it or take power, it just transfers the signal so that you can crossover the bass.

OK. So the sub gets its own power, reads the signal, outputs the unaltered signal to the amp, amp amplifies the signal, and outputs it to speakers. (I like to know how things work.)

I'll probably pick up that sub at some point.

 

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OK. So the sub gets its own power, reads the signal, outputs the unaltered signal to the amp, amp amplifies the signal, and outputs it to speakers. (I like to know how things work.)

I'll probably pick up that sub at some point.

Close. The amp sends the signal through the sub to the speakers, as you with have the audio input to the amp and not the sub. You can see the process here or watch the demonstration

 from the guy that I referenced earlier.
Internets Machine: Intel 4690k w/ Be Quiet! Pure Rock 4.7Ghz. MSI Krait z97. 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport Ram. MSI GTX 970 SLI 1520mhz. 500GB Samsung EVO 840  & 3TB WD Blue Drive. Rosewill 1000w Modular PSU. Corsair Air 540

My Beats Yo: Desktop:SMSL SA-160 Amp, KEF Q100 w/ Dayton 100w Sub Theater: Micca MB42X-C x3, MB42X x2, COVO-S x2 w/Dayton 120w Sub Headphones:  HIFiMan HE-400i, PSB M4U2, Philips Fidelio X2, Modded Fostex T50RP, ATH-M50, NVX XPT100, Phillips SHP9500, Pioneer SE-A1000, Hyper X Cloud 1&2, CHC Silverado, Superlux 668B

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Close. The amp sends the signal through the sub to the speakers, as you with have the audio input to the amp and not the sub. You can see the process here or watch the demonstration

from the guy that I referenced earlier.
Then what is the point of having the sub powered? Just more beef for bass?

EDIT: I believe I am starting to understand how it all works. Finally watching the video, I've seen this guys review of the mb42Xs and I like him.

 

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i7-4790K | MSI R9 390x | Cryorig H5 | MSI Z97 Gaming 7 Motherboard | G.Skill Sniper 8gbx2 1600mhz DDR3 | Corsair 300R | WD Green 2TB 2.5" 5400RPM drive | <p>Corsair RM750 | Logitech G602 | Corsair K95 RGB | Logitech Z313

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Then what is the point of having the sub powered? Just more beef for bass?

EDIT: I believe I am starting to understand how it all works. Finally watching the video, I've seen this guys review of the mb42Xs and I like him.

He is one of the most knowledgeable people I have found on youtube when it comes to speakers and headphones. I am actually letting him use my K7XX's to review currently.

Internets Machine: Intel 4690k w/ Be Quiet! Pure Rock 4.7Ghz. MSI Krait z97. 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport Ram. MSI GTX 970 SLI 1520mhz. 500GB Samsung EVO 840  & 3TB WD Blue Drive. Rosewill 1000w Modular PSU. Corsair Air 540

My Beats Yo: Desktop:SMSL SA-160 Amp, KEF Q100 w/ Dayton 100w Sub Theater: Micca MB42X-C x3, MB42X x2, COVO-S x2 w/Dayton 120w Sub Headphones:  HIFiMan HE-400i, PSB M4U2, Philips Fidelio X2, Modded Fostex T50RP, ATH-M50, NVX XPT100, Phillips SHP9500, Pioneer SE-A1000, Hyper X Cloud 1&2, CHC Silverado, Superlux 668B

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