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MSI Gaming 7--Awful Audio

lcjmodesto
By lcjmodesto
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Go to solution Solved by SSL,

I don't want to be any trouble, but there is there an advantage to having a USB device? I'd prefer a pci device if there isn't any tangible performance difference simply because it's less to transport / have on the desk.

 

There is a high probability that an internal soundcard would be affected by the same problem. An external device is the safest way to go.

Posted

Full system specs here -- http://pcpartpicker.com/p/wQDDMp

 

It's exactly what it sounds like. Audio is far too quiet and crackly. Front panel audio is even worse and muting audio from the front panel simply muffles the sound. All of the sound is turned up in my options, and I know it isn't a speaker issue because the speakers work fine on other devices. I've updated the Realtek audio drivers and nothing has fixed my system audio. I'm really hoping this isn't a hardware issue because I'd hate to have to take everything apart and RMA the board over bad audio.

 

All help is appreciated. Thank you.

 

*Edit* : Another thing I forgot to add! Whenever I shut down the computer, the speakers make a 'pop' noise (similar to being plugged in) at full volume. Don't know if that helps at all.

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Grab a syba dac/amp. 

My personal rig - 4790k 4.8Ghz, Asus Z97 Pro (wi-fi ac), Corsair Dominator Plat 4x8GB, SLI GTX 1080 TI FE, Samsung 850 Evo 1TB, Crucial MX100 512GB, EVGA G3 1000W, and cooled by a hardline liquid cooling loop. 

 

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Audio is far too quiet and crackly.

 

 

sounds like something isn't grounded.  Bad trace?  Poor design? Missing a standoff ... maybe?

"Pardon my French but this is just about the most ignorant blanket statement I've ever read. And though this is the internet, I'm not even exaggerating."

 

 

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Grab a syba dac/amp. 

Buying something isn't the solution here. Even if that will play audio normally, it doesn't fix the problem - using onboard audio.

 
CPU: Intel I5-4690k (stock) Motherboard: Asus B85 Pro gamer RAM: 2x4 - GB Avexir kit (xmp is not enabled) GPU: XFX R9 280X DD Case: Coolermaster Storm Enforcer Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB, WD 250GB PSU: Thermaltake Smartpower 750w Monitor: BenQ RL2455HM Cooling: 200mm front intake, 200mm top exhaust, 200mm rear exhaust Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K70 Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Core Sound: Kingston HyperX Clouds and Logitech Speakers Operating System: Windows 10 64bit

 

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Buying something isn't the solution here. Even if that will play audio normally, it doesn't fix the problem - using onboard audio.

 

Wut

Audio Reference • Cutting the Crap • 7.1 Headphones? • Audio Interference Troubleshooting Guide
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sounds like something isn't grounded.  Bad trace?  Poor design? Missing a standoff ... maybe?

I don't know how that would happen though... All of the standoffs (which were all there) come pre-installed, and I've never heard a complaint about the Enthoo Pro having any issues. Possibly just a defective motherboard?

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Wut

Seems pretty simple. NannerBeans is telling him to buy a dac/amp. The OP wants to fix his onboard audio.

 

This can most likely be solved without having to spend money.

 
CPU: Intel I5-4690k (stock) Motherboard: Asus B85 Pro gamer RAM: 2x4 - GB Avexir kit (xmp is not enabled) GPU: XFX R9 280X DD Case: Coolermaster Storm Enforcer Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB, WD 250GB PSU: Thermaltake Smartpower 750w Monitor: BenQ RL2455HM Cooling: 200mm front intake, 200mm top exhaust, 200mm rear exhaust Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K70 Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Core Sound: Kingston HyperX Clouds and Logitech Speakers Operating System: Windows 10 64bit

 

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I don't know how that would happen though... All of the standoffs (which were all there) come pre-installed, and I've never heard a complaint about the Enthoo Pro having any issues. Possibly just a defective motherboard?

Please explain where you have routed the HDaudio cable 

 
CPU: Intel I5-4690k (stock) Motherboard: Asus B85 Pro gamer RAM: 2x4 - GB Avexir kit (xmp is not enabled) GPU: XFX R9 280X DD Case: Coolermaster Storm Enforcer Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB, WD 250GB PSU: Thermaltake Smartpower 750w Monitor: BenQ RL2455HM Cooling: 200mm front intake, 200mm top exhaust, 200mm rear exhaust Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K70 Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Core Sound: Kingston HyperX Clouds and Logitech Speakers Operating System: Windows 10 64bit

 

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Please explain where you have routed the HDaudio cable 

The cable is straight from the Front Panel (pre-installed) to the header on my motherboard. I'm currently plugged straight into the motherboard, however.

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Seems pretty simple. NannerBeans is telling him to buy a dac/amp. The OP wants to fix his onboard audio.

 

This can most likely be solved without having to spend money.

 

I'm was just surprised at the lack of forham pleb echo chamber.

Audio Reference • Cutting the Crap • 7.1 Headphones? • Audio Interference Troubleshooting Guide
REVIEWS • HiFiMan HE-560 • Beyerdynamic T1 2. Generation • Schiit Bifrost 4490 • Schiit Valhalla 2
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Seems pretty simple. NannerBeans is telling him to buy a dac/amp. The OP wants to fix his onboard audio.

 

This can most likely be solved without having to spend money.

That's because the onboard can't be fixed. He can attempt to send in his board for an RMA but there's a good chance it'll come back in the same condition and he'll be out $10-15 for shipping. Not to mention he won't have a motherboard for a few weeks. 

My personal rig - 4790k 4.8Ghz, Asus Z97 Pro (wi-fi ac), Corsair Dominator Plat 4x8GB, SLI GTX 1080 TI FE, Samsung 850 Evo 1TB, Crucial MX100 512GB, EVGA G3 1000W, and cooled by a hardline liquid cooling loop. 

 

Safe Practices and Complete Guide to Buying/Selling on the Classifieds and other forums

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That's because the onboard can't be fixed. He can attempt to send in his board for an RMA but there's a good chance it'll come back in the same condition and he'll be out $10-15 for shipping. Not to mention he won't have a motherboard for a few weeks. 

We don't know it's the board yet

 

Recently, i've seen too many people telling people to spend money, when in fact, they didn't need to at all.

 
CPU: Intel I5-4690k (stock) Motherboard: Asus B85 Pro gamer RAM: 2x4 - GB Avexir kit (xmp is not enabled) GPU: XFX R9 280X DD Case: Coolermaster Storm Enforcer Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB, WD 250GB PSU: Thermaltake Smartpower 750w Monitor: BenQ RL2455HM Cooling: 200mm front intake, 200mm top exhaust, 200mm rear exhaust Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K70 Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Core Sound: Kingston HyperX Clouds and Logitech Speakers Operating System: Windows 10 64bit

 

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We don't know it's the board yet

 

Recently, i've seen too many people telling people to spend money, when in fact, they didn't need to at all.

We do since he said his speakers work fine on another source. It can't be anything else. Also with that "pop" noise, it's definitely the onboard at fault. He can either try to RMA the board or get a dac/amp. 

My personal rig - 4790k 4.8Ghz, Asus Z97 Pro (wi-fi ac), Corsair Dominator Plat 4x8GB, SLI GTX 1080 TI FE, Samsung 850 Evo 1TB, Crucial MX100 512GB, EVGA G3 1000W, and cooled by a hardline liquid cooling loop. 

 

Safe Practices and Complete Guide to Buying/Selling on the Classifieds and other forums

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Dirty confession... And thinking about it just now I think I may have figured out what the problem is. It's a possibility I screwed the motherboard in too tight... That could cause the problem, yes? And if so, is it possible to fix?

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Dirty confession... And thinking about it just now I think I may have figured out what the problem is. It's a possibility I screwed the motherboard in too tight... That could cause the problem, yes? And if so, is it possible to fix?

 

Uh, try loosening it?

Audio Reference • Cutting the Crap • 7.1 Headphones? • Audio Interference Troubleshooting Guide
REVIEWS • HiFiMan HE-560 • Beyerdynamic T1 2. Generation • Schiit Bifrost 4490 • Schiit Valhalla 2
RECOMMENDATIONS • The Audio Board's Recommended Gear

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We do since he said his speakers work fine on another source. It can't be anything else. Also with that "pop" noise, it's definitely the onboard at fault. He can either try to RMA the board or get a dac/amp.

Just... No...

It could be emi, or as stated, he screwed in the mobo too tight.

You're jumping to a conclusion when there are other avenues to explore.

 
CPU: Intel I5-4690k (stock) Motherboard: Asus B85 Pro gamer RAM: 2x4 - GB Avexir kit (xmp is not enabled) GPU: XFX R9 280X DD Case: Coolermaster Storm Enforcer Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB, WD 250GB PSU: Thermaltake Smartpower 750w Monitor: BenQ RL2455HM Cooling: 200mm front intake, 200mm top exhaust, 200mm rear exhaust Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K70 Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Core Sound: Kingston HyperX Clouds and Logitech Speakers Operating System: Windows 10 64bit

 

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Just... No...

It could be emi, or as stated, he screwed in the mobo too tight.

You're jumping to a conclusion when there are other avenues to explore.

 

EMI doesn't cause the problems he is describing, so that's not it, and tightening too much the motherboard would BREAK IT, which can't be fixed either.  

 

So yeah, he can either buy something or try to RMA the board.

Mystery is the source of all true science.

 

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Just... No...

It could be emi, or as stated, he screwed in the mobo too tight.

You're jumping to a conclusion when there are other avenues to explore.

 

If it's emi there really is only one solution.

Audio Reference • Cutting the Crap • 7.1 Headphones? • Audio Interference Troubleshooting Guide
REVIEWS • HiFiMan HE-560 • Beyerdynamic T1 2. Generation • Schiit Bifrost 4490 • Schiit Valhalla 2
RECOMMENDATIONS • The Audio Board's Recommended Gear

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Just... No...

It could be emi, or as stated, he screwed in the mobo too tight.

You're jumping to a conclusion when there are other avenues to explore.

Screwing in the motherboard too tight just doesn't make any sense. And if it's EMI, then the solution is to buy a dac/amp to get the audio components away from the PC. What "other avenues to explore" are there? Please elaborate because it just sounds like you're making excuses at this point. 

My personal rig - 4790k 4.8Ghz, Asus Z97 Pro (wi-fi ac), Corsair Dominator Plat 4x8GB, SLI GTX 1080 TI FE, Samsung 850 Evo 1TB, Crucial MX100 512GB, EVGA G3 1000W, and cooled by a hardline liquid cooling loop. 

 

Safe Practices and Complete Guide to Buying/Selling on the Classifieds and other forums

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Screwing in the motherboard too tight just doesn't make any sense. And if it's EMI, then the solution is to buy a dac/amp to get the audio components away from the PC. What "other avenues to explore" are there? Please elaborate because it just sounds like you're making excuses at this point.

tru isolating cables. It's free to do, so what's the problem?

I had a similar problem, and fixed it by isolating the audio cable (not to mention, making sure it is plugged in properly...)

 
CPU: Intel I5-4690k (stock) Motherboard: Asus B85 Pro gamer RAM: 2x4 - GB Avexir kit (xmp is not enabled) GPU: XFX R9 280X DD Case: Coolermaster Storm Enforcer Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB, WD 250GB PSU: Thermaltake Smartpower 750w Monitor: BenQ RL2455HM Cooling: 200mm front intake, 200mm top exhaust, 200mm rear exhaust Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K70 Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Core Sound: Kingston HyperX Clouds and Logitech Speakers Operating System: Windows 10 64bit

 

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I checked, and nothing was in too tight. So at this point it does, in fact, seem like the only options would be to buy a sound card or RMA. Any recommendations in the $50 USD range?  :unsure:  ^_^

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I had a similar problem, and fixed it by isolating the audio cable (not to mention, making sure it is plugged in properly...)

 

How could it be a cable problem if I'm plugged directly into the board?

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How could it be a cable problem if I'm plugged directly into the board?

 

Best to ignore him at this point, he really can't help you. As is standard I will direct you to the inexpensive but good Syba DAC: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Stereo-Headphone-Amplifier-SD-DAC63057/dp/B009WN7QT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418606053&sr=8-1&keywords=syba+dac

Audio Reference • Cutting the Crap • 7.1 Headphones? • Audio Interference Troubleshooting Guide
REVIEWS • HiFiMan HE-560 • Beyerdynamic T1 2. Generation • Schiit Bifrost 4490 • Schiit Valhalla 2
RECOMMENDATIONS • The Audio Board's Recommended Gear

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Best to ignore him at this point, he really can't help you. As is standard I will direct you to the inexpensive but good Syba DAC: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Stereo-Headphone-Amplifier-SD-DAC63057/dp/B009WN7QT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418606053&sr=8-1&keywords=syba+dac

I don't want to be any trouble, but there is there an advantage to having a USB device? I'd prefer a pci device if there isn't any tangible performance difference simply because it's less to transport / have on the desk.

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I don't want to be any trouble, but there is there an advantage to having a USB device? I'd prefer a pci device if there isn't any tangible performance difference simply because it's less to transport / have on the desk.

 

There is a high probability that an internal soundcard would be affected by the same problem. An external device is the safest way to go.

Audio Reference • Cutting the Crap • 7.1 Headphones? • Audio Interference Troubleshooting Guide
REVIEWS • HiFiMan HE-560 • Beyerdynamic T1 2. Generation • Schiit Bifrost 4490 • Schiit Valhalla 2
RECOMMENDATIONS • The Audio Board's Recommended Gear

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