F@H=Heat=Sad Panda, need advice -Custom Loop

[runit3]

Finally got F@H loaded up on this build so I can leave it while I go to work. Ideally I would like to have all 16 threads loaded while at the same time maxing my 2 GTX 580's.

 

Now after running F@H fully pinned for ~15min this is the problem I am encountering:

~2.5 minutes post 100% load I'm still 10C over idle, so the liquid in the loop has come up to near that value, even a little higher.

 

CPU ΔC=~40 Which, under normal circumstances, I wouldn't think is too much of an issue, but since I'm running 1.29v core (with every other voltage near max as well) idle is ~41-43C. It took ~5min to get to 83C but as soon as load comes on it's ~70C so the primary cause, as far as I can tell, is that the water in the loop is coming up to an equilibrium point while having 2 GPU's and a hefty CPU all at 100% load.

 

My primary question, and where I need advice, is exactly where am I going to get the most benefit from adding components. Ideally I would just swap 2 GTX 980's in place of the GTX 580's and call it a day, however I don't have $1400 lying around and my money tree has been picked dry for the season. So, I'm left with either trying out push/pull on both of my rads, modding my case to have an additional rad, or some combination of both.

 

Current specs in sig, but for ease of viewing this is the loop now:

x2 245x45mm Alphacool rads

x4 Corsair SP120's @ max RPM under load

x1 Swiftech MCP355

 

Ideally I would like to see temps max at ~73C, which is probably too tall of an order for what I have at the moment, but that's the goal. Hypothetically if I threw on an additional 360x30mm could that net a -10C difference? or am I just totally screwed? (that sounds stupid to even be asking :wacko: )

[ImBleu]

And to think I ran this on my old Macbook Pro in a chrome window.

[runit3]

And to think I ran this on my old Macbook Pro in a chrome window.

Chrome does not equal desktop Wu's.

 

For clarity, I'm on desktop Wu's...the one's that take 20hr+

[Ghost]

Ways to help with temps:

• Increase pump speed.
• Delid CPU.
• More radiators.
• Higher fan speeds.
• Double up on rad fans.
• Lower your damn CPU voltage and overclock
• Get better TIM.

 

Adding in another rad could help significantly in your case. Consider an external rad.

[runit3]

Ways to help with temps:

• Increase pump speed.
• Delid CPU.
• More radiators.
• Higher fan speeds.
• Double up on rad fans.
• Lower your damn CPU voltage and overclock
• Get better TIM.

 

Adding in another rad could help significantly in your case. Consider an external rad.

-Pump maxed

-Not Delidding a $1000 CPU, and I believe the 5960X is soldered/epoxied shut...so no go either way

-I'll try to think of a spot to add one

-Fans maxed

-Will do

-My OC :wub:  May be able to drop .01-.03v, but it won't be much

-Prolimatech PK-3 is already in there

 

Any suggestions on the rad size to add that would actually net me a benefit? and any estimated metrics on that benefit?

[Ghost]

-Pump maxed

-Not Delidding a $1000 CPU, and I believe the 5960X is soldered/epoxied shut...so no go either way

-I'll try to think of a spot to add one

-Fans maxed

-Will do

-My OC :wub:  May be able to drop .01-.03v, but it won't be much

-Prolimatech PK-3 is already in there

 

Any suggestions on the rad size to add that would actually net me a benefit? and any estimated metrics on that benefit?

I don't think anyone could estimate the drop in temp accurately. Any extra rad space would benefit your temps. Ideally you should measure the temp increase of the water while folding. You will be able to lower your temps by roughly what you can lower the water temp by. You would need to measure the delta T of the water between idle and load (at the point at which the water temp stops increasing).

 

Otherwise it's just guesswork. Also beware, most watercooling equipment is not meant to withstand water at more than ~55C.

[runit3]

I don't think anyone could estimate the drop in temp accurately. Any extra rad space would benefit your temps. Ideally you should measure the temp increase of the water while folding. You will be able to lower your temps by roughly what you can lower the water temp by. You would need to measure the delta T of the water between idle and load (at the point at which the water temp stops increasing).

According to the graph it looks like it EQ'd out around 50C. The only time I've ever gotten a spike that high is from F@H, gaming doesn't even come close, and even having 12 3Gb videos encoding (93% CPU/GPU load) won't get the loop over 45C.

 

Otherwise it's just guesswork. Also beware, most watercooling equipment is not meant to withstand water at more than ~55C.

Yeah, I figured nearing egg-poaching temps wouldn't be nice to the components :lol:

 

Just put x4 more SP120's and some fan splitters on order. I'll see what I can squeeze out of push/pull as that's the cheapest option, and worst case I can use the fans for another build. Still trying to brainstorm interior rad spots, but without a serious re-route external looks like the only option :mellow: Time to fab up some mounting brackets.

[worldwin]

Liquid metal time.

[runit3]

Liquid metal time.

1.9C off PK-3, and I'd rather not use EC paste.

[Fragsa1]

It depends on the placement of the 360 rad and temperature of the water, but I doubt you'd get a 10 degree drop.

 

I can't imagine where you would fit it in that case. I'm assuming you've got your rads in the top and the bottom mounts. You could replace your top rad, but I doubt that would lower the temperature by much at all...

[runit3]

It depends on the placement of the 360 rad and temperature of the water, but I doubt you'd get a 10 degree drop.

 

I can't imagine where you would fit it in that case. I'm assuming you've got your rads in the top and the bottom mounts. You could replace your top rad, but I doubt that would lower the temperature by much at all...

Top and vertical mount actually, build log in sig. I wanted to keep the bottom for my drain line and the 1000G2 is fairly long. I think if I do go the add-a-rad route it's going to have to be an exterior bracketed system which should be fairly easy to fab...keeping the cat away from the damn fans is going to be a larger problem.

[Fragsa1]

Top and vertical mount actually, build log in sig. I wanted to keep the bottom for my drain line and the 1000G2 is fairly long. I think if I do go the add-a-rad route it's going to have to be an exterior bracketed system which should be fairly easy to fab...keeping the cat away from the damn fans is going to be a larger problem.

 

Yeah, I don't think anyone will advocate for an exterior mounted rad. I guess it would make draining easier. Although it will look terrible and make moving it a bitch.