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The amp I would like to get is rated for 300w @ 4Ohms and 500w @ 2Ohms and the 1500w Sub I want is rated for 400w RMS. I understand you can tune amps, would this amp work with this sub or do I need to get a different amp.

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The amp I would like to get is rated for 300w @ 4Ohms and 500w @ 2Ohms and the 1500w Sub I want is rated for 400w RMS. I understand you can tune amps, would this amp work with this sub or do I need to get a different amp.

Well how many ohms is the sub? What are the amp and sub specifically?

 

I have two 10" 4 Ohm Kicker Comp's (150RMS/300 Max each) running off a 250w RMS @ 4Ohms Class D amp and it's fine.

"Rawr XD"

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It will work fine.

R those good choices?

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R those good choices?

If you like them. Car audio is very broad. There's no real "good" or "bad" components. Just get what you feel looks good to you.

 

The sub can handle more then the amp can produce, but that's not a bad thing. It's like getting a higher wattage PSU then you need.

"Rawr XD"

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If you like them. Car audio is very broad. There's no real "good" or "bad" components. Just get what you feel looks good to you.

 

The sub can handle more then the amp can produce, but that's not a bad thing. It's like getting a higher wattage PSU then you need.

I heard sometimes subs don't sound good with less wattage than they need but its also bad to get too much but that you can turn down the wattage on an amp if it outputs too much. Is this true

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I heard sometimes subs don't sound good with less wattage than they need but its also bad to get too much but that you can turn down the wattage on an amp if it outputs too much. Is this true

is the amp rated 300W continuous?

If it is, it will have no problems driving a 400W sub

 

if the sub is 1000W continuous and you're powering it with a 300W amp then it will sound very quiet and bad

some amps you can turn down the wattage, but i think most cant do that, check the specifications.

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I heard sometimes subs don't sound good with less wattage than they need but its also bad to get too much but that you can turn down the wattage on an amp if it outputs too much. Is this true

This is true however only when putting less then half the RMS wattage through the subwoofer. You're putting 300W RMS through a 400W RMS sub which is pretty much ideal. The worst that can happen is that your sub won't be as loud as if you were to use it with a 500W RMS amp.

 

When buying a car amp though, consider getting a Class D one. Better sound, more reliable, and less heat.

"Rawr XD"

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This is true however only when putting less then half the RMS wattage through the subwoofer. You're putting 300W RMS through a 400W RMS sub which is pretty much ideal. The worst that can happen is that your sub won't be as loud as if you were to use it with a 500W RMS amp.

 

When buying a car amp though, consider getting a Class D one. Better sound, more reliable, and less heat.

Yeah that one the one I linked is

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is the amp rated 300W continuous?

If it is, it will have no problems driving a 400W sub

 

if the sub is 1000W continuous and you're powering it with a 300W amp then it will sound very quiet and bad

some amps you can turn down the wattage, but i think most cant do that, check the specifications.

Yes it is

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Yes it is

Then you will be good :) does the amp have a peak wattage rating?

I highly doubt it will be over 1500W, but if it is then it could blow your sub :P

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Then you will be good :) does the amp have a peak wattage rating?

I highly doubt it will be over 1500W, but if it is then it could blow your sub :P

1000w

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1000w

Then you won't have a problem.

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if the sub is 1000W continuous and you're powering it with a 300W amp then it will sound very quiet and bad

 

That's not how max power ratings work....

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That's not how max power ratings work....

Those are continuous watts, not peak.

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That's not how max power ratings work....

He understand he just wrote the wrong thing. Its a 400w RMS sub with a 300w RMS amp. The sub has a max of 1500w and the amp has a max of 1000w

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Those are continuous watts, not peak.

 

I know - max continuous, not max instantaneous. Still, power ratings shed no light on subwoofer efficiency or the amp's sound quality at various output levels.

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I know - max continuous, not max instantaneous. Still, power ratings shed no light on subwoofer efficiency or the amp's sound quality at various output levels.

U saying I should get a lower wattage sub or a higher wattage amp?

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U saying I should get a lower wattage sub or a higher wattage amp?

 

No, I'm just saying that low max power amps don't neccessarily make high max power subs sound bad (what Enderman seemed to be implying).

 

I wouldn't over think these power ratings too much. As long as your sub can handle more than your amp can output, you're golden.

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No, I'm just saying that low max power amps don't neccessarily make high max power subs sound bad (what Enderman seemed to be implying).

 

I wouldn't over think these power ratings too much. As long as your sub can handle more than your amp can output, you're golden.

 

 

Those are continuous watts, not peak.

 

 

This is true however only when putting less then half the RMS wattage through the subwoofer. You're putting 300W RMS through a 400W RMS sub which is pretty much ideal. The worst that can happen is that your sub won't be as loud as if you were to use it with a 500W RMS amp.

 

When buying a car amp though, consider getting a Class D one. Better sound, more reliable, and less heat.

 

 

Would this box work, the depth and everything is fine I just wondered if it was big enough

 

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SET12CC-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B003DVTW1Q/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1406765329&sr=1-13&keywords=truck+subwoofer+box

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Do you have a budget your trying to stick to?

While yes, car audio is very broad, there are good and bad brands. I would not recommend a Sony anything for car audio. 

IF your looking at sub-woofers in that $100 range the best bang for the buck your going to find would be something like a Soundqubed HDS212 http://www.soundqubed.com/HDS212_p_221.html

They are very nice for the money with awesome customer service. 

 

Be careful when it comes to cheaper amplifiers, a lot of amplifiers don't do actually rated power and could take some serious power to even hit its advertised ratings. For a budget ($200) amp that does its near rated power the Audiopipe APCL-15001D would be a nice choice pushing 526 @ 4ohms 891@ 2ohms official. http://www.amazon.com/AUDIOPIPE-APCL-15001D-Class-D-Amplifier-APCL15001D/dp/B00BW54418

Try to find a dyno of the amp before you buy it so you can see what it actually does, also most decent amps will come with a birth sheet as it should of been tested before packaged up. 

 

When addressing the box, it will make or break your sound. The best components made could sound like the cheapest with a bad box. I would stay away from anything prefabbed. Either build it yourself or if you must buy one, buy something of quality i.e. my box in my ram was $300 alone. 

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The amp I would like to get is rated for 300w @ 4Ohms and 500w @ 2Ohms and the 1500w Sub I want is rated for 400w RMS. I understand you can tune amps, would this amp work with this sub or do I need to get a different amp.

 

When it comes to to adjusting your amp once its installed to set your head unit to 3/4 volume as typical HU's will start to clip higher than that. With the volume set, put your multi-meter leads on the speaker output, set to AC. For example If I run 1000W RMS @ 2ohm so I would adjust my subwoofers amplifier gain to output 44.72VAC. This will get you in the ball park and shouldn't clip. Anything more accurate you are going to need a meter to detect distortion like an SMD DD-1. 

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