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4670k vs 4670 vs 4570

So I've decided to save up and grab the SC 780 from EVGA and now I'm stuck with should I really go with a unlocked processor. I have never OC'd before should I stick with an locked SKU or are there any easy tutorials for me to OC a 4670k?

 

Also I'm now looking for a 32'' TV (Wifi) for $400-500 Canadian and a 23'' Gaming monitor for under $200 Canadian 

 

Also where can I find some m.2 ssd's for the impact?

 

Current set Gaming Rig

http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/3Qesy

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the 4570 is fine.

I don't always have time to study, but when I do, I don't.

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4670k>4670>4570, you will be fine with the lowest. 

 

Also, why are you thinking stuff like this when you have that motherboard? Way overkill.

Potatoes are good for your nostrils.

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the 4670K is an unlocked 4670, and a 4570 is a less powerful 4th Gen i5 than the 4670 and the 4670K

-the 4670K is the best of them all

 Crust : Intel Core i5 4690K @ 4.4Ghz 1.45v  |  MotherboardMSI Z97 MPower  |  Fruity FillingMSI GTX 960 Armor 2Way-SLI |  CoolingNoctua NH-D15  |  RAM : 16GB Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz | Storage : 2xSamsung 840 EVO 500GB SSDs Raid-0  |  Power Supply : Seasonic X-Series 1250W 80+Gold  |  Monitor : Dell U2713HM 27" 60Hz 1440p  |                                                                                                                                           

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Get the 4670K. :P

System 1: Thermaltake Element Q - Thermaltake 220W SFX - Asus AT5IONT-I mini-ITX - Intel® Atom™ D525 onboard 1.8GHz Dual-Core HT - Integrated NVIDIA® ION™ - 2x 2GB Kingston DDR3 - Samsung 120GB 840 Series - Scythe Kama Rack 3.5 - Asus DVD-RW

System 2: Thermaltake Element Q - Thermaltake 220W SFX - Asus E2KM1I-DELUXE mini-ITX - AMD E2-2000 onboard 1.75GHz Dual-Core - Integrated AMD® Radeon HD 7340 - 2x 4GB Kingston DDR3 - Samsung 120GB 840 Series - Scythe Kama Rack 3.5 - Asus DVD-RW

Building: Bitfenix Prodigy Black - Corsair AX860i - Asus Maximus VII Impact - Corsair Hydro Series H100i - Intel® Core™ i7 4790K - Asus Matrix Platinum GTX 980 4GB - Corsair 16GB Dominator Platinum 2x 8GB DDR3 2400MHz CL10 - Samsung 1TB EVO 840 Series

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4670k>4670>4570, you will be fine with the lowest. 

 

Also, why are you thinking stuff like this when you have that motherboard? Way overkill.

 

Huge overkill on mobo. Better spend the money on xeon 1230v3 and r9 290

Ill do build.

 

The Impact provides a lot more than just overclocking, it comes packed with gaming features I'm interested in that don't come with any other boards besides the Evga Stinger or MSI z97 gaming.

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i9 11900k - NH-D15S - ASUS Z-590-F - 64GB 2400Mhz - 1080ti SC - 970evo 1TB - 960evo 250GB - 850evo 250GB - WDblack 1TB - WDblue 3TB - HX850i - 27GN850-B - PB278Q - VX229 - HP P224 - HP P224 - HannsG HT231 - 450D                                                         
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If you want to overclock take the 4670k and if not take the 4670. But if you want to save money go with the 4570

CPU: Intel I7 4790K 4.8 Ghz || Mobo: ASUS ROG Maximus Hero 6 Z87 || Ram: Corsair Vengeance 16 GB 1600 Mhz || GPU: ASUS GTX 980 Ti STRIX || Storage: 2 x SSD Samsung 840 EVO 250 GB RAID 0 HDD Western Digital 1 TB Black || PSU: Corsair AX 860 watt || Cooling: 2 x AF 140mm (front), 2 AF120 Blue LED (bottom and back), 2 SP120 (top on radiator) ||  CPU cooler: Corsair H100i GTX || Case: Corsair obsidian 750D <3 <3 <3 

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The Impact provides a lot more than just overclocking, it comes packed with gaming features I'm interested in that don't come with any other boards besides the Evga Stinger or MSI z97 gaming.

"gaming features" the only gaming features that make minimal sense are the prioritized networking or better onboard audio, but if you're on the quest for excellent audio you can get an external DAC

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Check this out. Mobo is new :) and perfectly fine You can also wait for haswell refresh if you want.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU:  Intel Xeon E3-1230 V3 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($249.98 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler:  Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard:  Asus H97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Memory:  G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory  ($72.99 @ Newegg)
Storage:  Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk  ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card:  MSI GeForce GTX 780 3GB TWIN FROZR Video Card  ($477.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case:  Corsair 250D Mini ITX Tower Case  ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply:  SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1275.91
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-19 12:53 EDT-0400)

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If your not going to OC, then you don't need a motherboard with OC features like that one. The I5 4570 will be fine.

CPU: Ryzen 9 5900X with Nox Hummer H240 Aura AIO Liquid Cooler; MOBO: Asus ROG STRIX B550-F; GPU: XFX RX 6800 RAM: Viper Steel 16 Gb (2X8) 4400Mhz DDR4; Storage: Adata XPG 512 Gb M.2 NVME SSD + 1 Tb WD Blue HDD + 1 Lexar Tb SSD; Case: Phanteks P350X; PSU: Corsair RM750i 80+ Gold; Monitor: Gigabyte M27Q 1440p @170hz; Headset: Hyper X Cloud Stinger; K&M: CM Storm Quickfire TK & Logitech G502.

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But you are right, if you want that mobo, you should go 4670k. H60 will overclock easily, 4.4Ghz

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"gaming features" the only gaming features that make minimal sense are the prioritized networking or better onboard audio, but if you're on the quest for excellent audio you can get an external DAC

A good external DAC would run me about 100-200, why not just put it into the motherboard to get the SupremeFX+Sonic Radar+mPCIe Combo II + Wi-Fi 802.11ac/Bluetooth 4.0+GameFirst II + Intel LAN+PerfectVoice+RamDisk and SSDErase?  I'd be getting more for my buck this way.

 

 

Check this out. Mobo is new :) and perfectly fine You can also wait for haswell refresh if you want.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU:  Intel Xeon E3-1230 V3 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($249.98 @ SuperBiiz)

CPU Cooler:  Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  ($59.99 @ Amazon)

Motherboard:  Asus H97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($109.99 @ Amazon)

Memory:  G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory  ($72.99 @ Newegg)

Storage:  Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk  ($139.99 @ Amazon)

Video Card:  MSI GeForce GTX 780 3GB TWIN FROZR Video Card  ($477.99 @ SuperBiiz)

Case:  Corsair 250D Mini ITX Tower Case  ($84.99 @ Amazon)

Power Supply:  SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($79.99 @ Amazon)

Total: $1275.91

(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)

(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-19 12:53 EDT-0400)

I'm living in Canada and still need to purchase my monitor. Your build went 200 over my 1.5k budget and I only have 200 left for a monitor

But you are right, if you want that mobo, you should go 4670k. H60 will overclock easily, 4.4Ghz

I won't be overclocking seeing how I don't know how to and don't want to ruin anything or void warrenty.

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I'm living in Canada and still need to purchase my monitor. Your build went 200 over my 1.5k budget and I only have 200 left for a monitor

I won't be overclocking seeing how I don't know how to and don't want to ruin anything or void warrenty.

How about in future? :) Seeing how you shell out money for mobo, its better to futureproof cpu too.

In 2 years when you want more performance, you just OC cpu and switch out gpu.

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I know you asked about your CPU specifically, but, here's some thoughts on the rest of the build:

 

1. Unless you really need it, or really want to, ditch the mITX case/MoBo and go for mATX or ATX. It will potentially save you money, increase cooling ability, and allow for more upgradability. (ya never know, may wanna do SLI, add a bunch more hard drives, http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-case-cc9011028ww

 

2. As others have said, way overkill on the MoBo. Especially if not overclocking, a $130 board will be just as good. (you can get an H87 board for sub 100 even that will do just fine...) http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gah87md3h

 

3. Technically overkill on the ram, but, no big deal. a stick of 1600 will do just fine. Actually, in looking, that's not a bad deal for 1833, you'd only save at max $5-10 for 1600.

 

4. Go with a GOLD rated PSU if you can fit it in your budget. (http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-power-supply-rm650  |  you could even do a 550W version if you're not overclocking.)

 

Hope this helps :)

D3SL91 | Ethan | Gaming+Work System | NAS System | Photo: Nikon D750 + D5200

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How about in future? :) Seeing how you shell out money for mobo, its better to futureproof cpu too.

In 2 years when you want more performance, you just OC cpu and switch out gpu.

I usually sell my PC after using it for about a year or two. I doubt the CPU or GPU will be any less than amazing even after 2 years. I've been using my AMD 1100T for about 2 and a half and it still runs smooth

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I know you asked about your CPU specifically, but, here's some thoughts on the rest of the build:

 

1. Unless you really need it, or really want to, ditch the mITX case/MoBo and go for mATX or ATX. It will potentially save you money, increase cooling ability, and allow for more upgradability. (ya never know, may wanna do SLI, add a bunch more hard drives, http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-case-cc9011028ww

 

2. As others have said, way overkill on the MoBo. Especially if not overclocking, a $130 board will be just as good. (you can get an H87 board for sub 100 even that will do just fine...) http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gah87md3h

 

3. Technically overkill on the ram, but, no big deal. a stick of 1600 will do just fine. Actually, in looking, that's not a bad deal for 1833, you'd only save at max $5-10 for 1600.

 

4. Go with a GOLD rated PSU if you can fit it in your budget. (http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-power-supply-rm650  |  you could even do a 550W version if you're not overclocking.)

 

Hope this helps :)

 

I'm on the go a lot and it's bad enough I have to lug around my ATX case with everything in it so that's why I'm sticking with Mitx. As far as the motherboard goes if I was to downgrade it to the H87 I'd then have to go and buy a DAC worth my time which would run me 100-200 and would only replace the audio, I'd lose all of these functions (SupremeFX+Sonic Radar+mPCIe Combo II + Wi-Fi 802.11ac/Bluetooth 4.0+GameFirst II + Intel LAN+PerfectVoice+RamDisk and SSDErase) that come with the impact and can't be replaced or would cost more money to integrate. That and the fact that I wont have to disconnect and carry any other peripherals when I do travel would be the reasons why I went all out of the mobo. Ram wise I'm still debating if I should go single stick of 8GB 1866 or 1600 just for future upgrades.

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I usually sell my PC after using it for about a year or two. I doubt the CPU or GPU will be any less than amazing even after 2 years. I've been using my AMD 1100T for about 2 and a half and it still runs smooth

O.o

Sixcore phenom, "NOICE!", even now it is considered to be for high end gaming ( if game support all cores )

So its not big jump for you then, at least not in cpu power.

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O.o

Sixcore phenom, "NOICE!", even now it is considered to be for high end gaming ( if game support all cores )

So its not big jump for you then, at least not in cpu power.

Not swapping anything out on this PC, actually plan on giving it to my little brother as a present. I wish they continued it TBH.

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