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Colling the 13600k help

Raging Ginger
By Raging Ginger
in Cooling
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I am using a Noctua 12s and while this was fine for old 10600k it has been unable to control the 13600k. 

The MB enabled boost by default which changed the power limits to 300 watts, I have turned this off and throttled the power limit down to 145w on Short Boost (down from the stock 181w) and kept 125w on Boost.

These settings keep me under 85 degrees under load.

 

Currently using the Inwin A1 Plus, yes I know it is a small case but I prefer it that way. 

 

Looking to see if there is a better option that will fit in my case, I have right around 158mm of clearance with this case. I would really prefer to stay with a Noctua but am open to other options.

I would like to use more of the potential of my new CPU.

 

PC Specs:

13600k (power throttled to 145w boost)

Asus ROG Strix B760-i Gaming Wifi 

Zotac RTX 3060 TI Twin Edge OC

Corsair Vengeance DDR5 2x16gb 5600

WD SN550 1 TB NVME M.2

Corsair 750 watt PSU

Intel Tuning Tool.png

Watts.png

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Posted
1 minute ago, dentonlws48 said:

I am using a Noctua 12s and while this was fine for old 10600k it has been unable to control the 13600k. 

The MB enabled boost by default which changed the power limits to 300 watts, I have turned this off and throttled the power limit down to 145w on Short Boost (down from the stock 181w) and kept 125w on Boost.

These settings keep me under 85 degrees under load.

 

Currently using the Inwin A1 Plus, yes I know it is a small case but I prefer it that way. 

 

Looking to see if there is a better option that will fit in my case, I have right around 158mm of clearance with this case. I would really prefer to stay with a Noctua but am open to other options.

I would like to use more of the potential of my new CPU.

 

PC Specs:

13600k (power throttled to 145w boost)

Asus ROG Strix B760-i Gaming Wifi 

Zotac RTX 3060 TI Twin Edge OC

Corsair Vengeance DDR5 2x16gb 5600

WD SN550 1 TB NVME M.2

Corsair 750 watt PSU

Intel Tuning Tool.png

Watts.png

what is your idel temps on the CPU?

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticeably improve performance past 240mm and don't improve at all past 360mm. 9) RTFM.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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1 minute ago, dentonlws48 said:

Mainly just want to keep it under 80 degrees while at least being able to put CPU back on default settings of 181w.

??? - that's not the answer to the question I asked

 

What tempriture does your CPU run at when your not doing anything? Knowing this might help us diagnose a reason your CPU is running so hot in the first place.

I might be experienced, but I'm human and I do make mistakes. Trust but Verify! I edit my messages after sending them alot, please refresh before posting your reply. Please try to be clear and specific, you'll get a better answer. Please remember to mark solutions once you have the information you need. Expand this signature for common PC building advice, a short bio and a list of my components.

 

Common build advice:

1) Buy the cheapest (well reviewed) motherboard that has the features you need. Paying more typically only gets you features you won’t use. 2) only get as much RAM as you need, getting more won’t (typically) make your PC faster. 3) While I recommend getting an NVMe drive, you don’t need to splurge for an expensive drive with DRam cache, DRamless drives are fine for gamers. 4) paying for looks is fine, just don’t break the bank. 5) Tower coolers are usually good enough, unless you go top tier Intel or plan on OCing. 6) OCing is a dead meme, you probably shouldn’t bother. 7) "Bottlenecks" rarely matter and "Future-proofing" is a myth. 8) AIOs don't noticeably improve performance past 240mm and don't improve at all past 360mm. 9) RTFM.

 

Useful Websites:

https://www.productchart.com - helps compare monitors, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com - makes designing a PC easier.

 

Bio:

He/Him - I'm a PhD student working in the fields of reinforcement learning and traffic control. PCs are one of my hobbies and I've built many PCs and performed upgrades on a few laptops (for myself, friends and family). My personal computers include 4 windows (10/11) machines and a TrueNAS server (and I'm looking to move to dual booting Linux Mint on my main machine in future). Aside from computers, I also dabble in modding/homebrew retro consoles, support Southampton FC, and enjoy Scuba Diving and Skiing.

Fun Facts

1) When I was 3 years old my favourite toy was a scientific calculator. 2) My father is a British Champion ploughman in the Vintage Hydraulic Class. 3) On Speedrun.com, I'm the world record holder for the Dream Bobsleigh event on Mario & Sonic at the Olympic Winter Games 2010.

 

My Favourite Games: World of Tanks, Runescape, Subnautica, Metroid (Fusion and Dread), Spyro: Year of the Dragon (Original and Reignited Trilogy), Crash Bash, Mario Kart Wii, Balatro

 

My Computers: Primary: My main gaming rig - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/NByp3C Second: Hosts Discord bots as well as a Minecraft and Ark server, and also serves as a reinforcement learning sand box - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/cc9K7P NAS: TrueNAS Scale NAS hosting SMB shares, DDNS updater, pi-hole, and a Jellyfin server - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/will0hlep/saved/m37w3C Foldatron: My folding@home and BOINC rig (partially donated to me by Folding Team Leader GOTSpectrum) - Mobile: Mini-ITX gaming rig for when I'm away from home -

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19 minutes ago, will0hlep said:

??? - that's not the answer to the question I asked

 

What tempriture does your CPU run at when your not doing anything? Knowing this might help us diagnose a reason your CPU is running so hot in the first place.

Gothca, misunderstood. Idle temps are around 36. I am using 4 NF-A12x25 fans in the case as well.

Fan Curve.png

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You could return the short power limit to stock value and tune the power limit time window to match the coolers thermal mass. Intel default is typically 21 seconds, but motherboards are allowed to choose their own value.

 

Most coolers won't sustain 180 W, which is why that tuning value exists.

Main: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D, Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti, 16 GB 4400 MHz DDR4 Linux - Fedora

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11 minutes ago, svmlegacy said:

You could return the short power limit to stock value and tune the power limit time window to match the coolers thermal mass. Intel default is typically 21 seconds, but motherboards are allowed to choose their own value.

 

Most coolers won't sustain 180 W, which is why that tuning value exists.

The stock was set at 96 seconds, I turned it down to 48.

 

R20 made it get to 91 degrees and then dropped back to 70s once the 20 seconds were up.

 

Would setting it to 140w and disabling short boost be better?

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12 minutes ago, Raging Ginger said:

The stock was set at 96 seconds, I turned it down to 48.

 

R20 made it get to 91 degrees and then dropped back to 70s once the 20 seconds were up.

 

Would setting it to 140w and disabling short boost be better?

The point of PL1 is to take advantage of the thermal mass of the cooler, so I'd suggest leaving PL1 & 2 at the default and reducing tau to prevent excessive thermal throttling.

 

It would be good to increase PL1 (long power limit) to the max sustainable power your CPU can achieve within your "comfortable" temperature limit.

 

Keep in mind that working the GPU will increase the air temp in the case, causing the CPU temp to increase typically, as well.

Main: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D, Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti, 16 GB 4400 MHz DDR4 Linux - Fedora

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  • 4 weeks later...
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So I managed to keep tweaking and ended us under-volting with a negative offset of 0.17 using the Asus motherboard. This made it possible for me to run at 181 watts 24/7 and to always have the cpu running at 5.1ghz.

 

I tested the stability with Bench Mate.

 

Temps are also much better, maxing out at 92c under a 10min load. Still hotter than I wanted but is much better than before. And the cpu will rarely reach these temps under normal use.

 

That is compared to before when I ran more than 160 watts the system ended up thermal throttling after 2 minutes.

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