13700k temps

[ChopNorris]

Hello everyone,

I'm writing this because I've just build my new PC a few days ago and I'm a bit annoyed about the temps I'm getting on the CPU.

I'm using a 13700K with an NH D15 on a Phanteks P500A. The mobo is a MSI MAG z790 TOMAHAWK in which I've set CPU Lite Load to Mode 1 instead of undervolting via an offset, with no other changes made in BIOS.

The case fans are set as 3x140 (the rgb ones that came with the case) as an intake in the front, 3x Arctic P12 as an exhaust at the top, and finally one Arctic P14 as an exhaust in the back; which I think is a really good config for an air cooled PC.

 

The temps and voltages that I'm getting in cinebench R23 are these:

Spoiler

https://imgur.com/a/7eMg3qS

While gaming it sits in around 65/70, which would not worry me if it wasn't under such a little load.

 

What do you guys think? Am I worrying about nothing? Is the Noctua just not enough? Should I undervolt more?

I've read about this new gen being really hot, but I've had a Noctua for a few years and always performed perfectly.

 

Thanks in advance!

[FI Fheonix]

24 minutes ago, ChopNorris said:

Hello everyone,

I'm writing this because I've just build my new PC a few days ago and I'm a bit annoyed about the temps I'm getting on the CPU.

I'm using a 13700K with an NH D15 on a Phanteks P500A. The mobo is a MSI MAG z790 TOMAHAWK in which I've set CPU Lite Load to Mode 1 instead of undervolting via an offset, with no other changes made in BIOS.

The case fans are set as 3x140 (the rgb ones that came with the case) as an intake in the front, 3x Arctic P12 as an exhaust at the top, and finally one Arctic P14 as an exhaust in the back; which I think is a really good config for an air cooled PC.

 

The temps and voltages that I'm getting in cinebench R23 are these:

  Hide contents

https://imgur.com/a/7eMg3qS

While gaming it sits in around 65/70, which would not worry me if it wasn't under such a little load.

 

What do you guys think? Am I worrying about nothing? Is the Noctua just not enough? Should I undervolt more?

I've read about this new gen being really hot, but I've had a Noctua for a few years and always performed perfectly.

 

Thanks in advance!

Welcome to Intel's 13th gen CPU's... You could undervolt more to get slightly better performance and thermals. I have a 13600K with a  Nhd-15 as well but I have undervolted it and installed fan control so I can tune the fans how i like.

[ChopNorris]

2 minutes ago, FI Fheonix said:

Welcome to Intel's 13th gen CPU's... You could undervolt more to get slightly better performance and thermals. I have a 13600K with a  Nhd-15 as well but I have undervolted it and installed fan control so I can tune the fans how i like.

I find it kind of ridiculous, I mean, it is hitting 70C at 30% of load... that is almost what my 3800x reached at full load.

I suppose I'll try to undervolt a little further, but at this point I don't believe it will make much of a difference.

[FI Fheonix]

3 minutes ago, ChopNorris said:

I find it kind of ridiculous, I mean, it is hitting 70C at 30% of load... that is almost what my 3800x reached at full load.

I suppose I'll try to undervolt a little further, but at this point I don't believe it will make much of a difference.

Yeah, Intel CPU's need to have a lower TDP and Intel should consider de-lidding them.

[FI Fheonix]

4 minutes ago, ChopNorris said:

I find it kind of ridiculous, I mean, it is hitting 70C at 30% of load... that is almost what my 3800x reached at full load.

I suppose I'll try to undervolt a little further, but at this point I don't believe it will make much of a difference.

Most you can do is undervolt and set a fan curve. Unless you want to consider Ln2...

[RONOTHAN##]

The 13700K generally just runs a lot of voltage into it from the factory. Easiest way to prove that is how TechPowerUp in their review of the chip managed to overclock it to 5.5GHz while at the same time dropping temps by about 10C since they didn't have to use as much voltage. 

 

Mid 90s in Cinebench is roughly what I'd expect from a 13700K at stock settings to do on an NH-D15 without a contact frame. A contact frame should get you about 5-10C lower temps if you want to go for one of those. Contrary to what you might think, overclocking that chip should actually in theory get you better temps since for the most part you will end up running lower voltages than stock with a proper overclock. Plus static overclocks are a lot less of a hassle IMO to setup than voltage offsets, there's less places for the motherboard to screw up and introduce weird behavior (I.E. clock stretching). 

 

Also 70s in games isn't really that up there, that's where I'd expect a lot of CPUs to be at. That's just roughly what those CPUs run at when they boost up. 

[ChopNorris]

40 minutes ago, FI Fheonix said:

Most you can do is undervolt and set a fan curve. Unless you want to consider Ln2...

I'll tweak a bit more with the undervolt, before ln2 I would just go for a 420 AIO.

21 minutes ago, RONOTHAN## said:

The 13700K generally just runs a lot of voltage into it from the factory. Easiest way to prove that is how TechPowerUp in their review of the chip managed to overclock it to 5.5GHz while at the same time dropping temps by about 10C since they didn't have to use as much voltage. 

 

Mid 90s in Cinebench is roughly what I'd expect from a 13700K at stock settings to do on an NH-D15 without a contact frame. A contact frame should get you about 5-10C lower temps if you want to go for one of those. Contrary to what you might think, overclocking that chip should actually in theory get you better temps since for the most part you will end up running lower voltages than stock with a proper overclock. Plus static overclocks are a lot less of a hassle IMO to setup than voltage offsets, there's less places for the motherboard to screw up and introduce weird behavior (I.E. clock stretching). 

 

Also 70s in games isn't really that up there, that's where I'd expect a lot of CPUs to be at. That's just roughly what those CPUs run at when they boost up. 

I've read about the contact frames, but I thought they invalidated the warranty. I'm not an expert in OC at all, but I assumed that OC would do just the opposite. What would be the procedure you recommend?

About the 70C in game is not something that annoyes me, it is ore about ti reaching that temp at barely 30% of load.

 

Thanks again!

[RONOTHAN##]

4 minutes ago, ChopNorris said:

I've read about the contact frames, but I thought they invalidated the warranty.

They do, but they do in the same way that XMP invalidates the warranty: it only does if you admit to doing it. If you go to do a warranty claim, put the stock ILM back on, and don't tell them that you had a contact frame they should still honor your warranty as there's no way to confirm that you were using one. 

 

7 minutes ago, ChopNorris said:

I'm not an expert in OC at all, but I assumed that OC would do just the opposite. What would be the procedure you recommend?

If you push it really far it could increase temps a lot, but if you go for a more modest OC it's not bad. There are many different ways to do it, but this is generally the method I do (this also works for pure undervolting if you want to do that). 

 

First things first, setup the VRM settings. IIRC the Z790 Tomahawk has the same VRM as the Z690 Tomahawk, so the settings I'm gonna describe are for the Tomahawk. First things first, head over to the DigitALL power settings menu in the voltage section of the overclocking menu. Mode 4 or 5 LLC should be optimal IIRC (lower number means less VDroop, meaning lower idle voltage but worse voltage regulation, higher number means more VDroop resulting in a higher idle voltage but better overall voltage regulation, and Mode 4 or 5 is the point of diminishing returns IIRC) and 500kHz switching frequency should be best. 

 

Next, setup a static clock speed. Give yourself a goal of where to end up on the P, E, and ring clock. 5.5GHz on the P cores and 4.3GHz on the E cores being a good balance of clock speed to voltage needed, though if you want to do a pure undervolt you want to dial in 5.3GHz on the P cores, 4.2GHz on the E cores, and 4.8GHz on the ring. Do note that, in my experience at least, the ring clock will be the biggest factor for how much voltage you need, so you might be better off dropping down the ring clock 100-200MHz as that might get you a bit more voltage headroom, though the ring clock can be pretty important in some workloads. Once you have this setup, enter in an override voltage. Do something like 1.35-1.4V, you will tweak this setting a lot so don't worry about exactly what it is right now, your main goal is to set something high enough that you won't instantly crash and so you can see what your actual voltage value is (LLC will mean this value can be something like 100mV lower than what you actually set when you're running a stress test, so the goal for this is to figure out where this lines up in comparison to the stock 1.3V). 

 

Boot up into Windows and run your stress test of choice. Generally when I'm doing 13th gen overclocking I prefer OCCT AVX small FFTs, but if you prefer something like Prime95 or XTU that's fine as well. Start running the stress test and make sure that it doesn't instantly crash, at least within about a minute, and see roughly where the voltage ends up using HWINFO. Once you figure that out, head into the BIOS, reduce the voltage until you're below stock values, and do a quick check for stability again. Repeat until it crashes, then slowly start walking the voltage back up (I'd go in 10mV increments, though you can do more or less depending on your level of patience) and wait until it can run for about an hour, making sure that HWINFO isn't detecting any WHEA errors (this generally means that the ring is a little too unstable). If you want to try messing around with them, the PLL voltages can help reduce the amount of VCore you need for a specific clock speed, though these tend to sweet spot so whether or not you want to play around with them is your call. 

[Ebony Falcon]

What is you voltage underload ? 
 

my 13600k was 1.375 at stock and hit 100c instantly in r23

 

lite mode dropped me to 1.15v underload and down into the 70’s for temps 

 

try a manual voltage of 1.2v as a starting point and lee dropping it untill u crash then put it back up abit 

 

 

[ChopNorris]

On 1/23/2023 at 11:42 PM, RONOTHAN## said:

They do, but they do in the same way that XMP invalidates the warranty: it only does if you admit to doing it. If you go to do a warranty claim, put the stock ILM back on, and don't tell them that you had a contact frame they should still honor your warranty as there's no way to confirm that you were using one. 

 

If you push it really far it could increase temps a lot, but if you go for a more modest OC it's not bad. There are many different ways to do it, but this is generally the method I do (this also works for pure undervolting if you want to do that). 

 

First things first, setup the VRM settings. IIRC the Z790 Tomahawk has the same VRM as the Z690 Tomahawk, so the settings I'm gonna describe are for the Tomahawk. First things first, head over to the DigitALL power settings menu in the voltage section of the overclocking menu. Mode 4 or 5 LLC should be optimal IIRC (lower number means less VDroop, meaning lower idle voltage but worse voltage regulation, higher number means more VDroop resulting in a higher idle voltage but better overall voltage regulation, and Mode 4 or 5 is the point of diminishing returns IIRC) and 500kHz switching frequency should be best. 

 

Next, setup a static clock speed. Give yourself a goal of where to end up on the P, E, and ring clock. 5.5GHz on the P cores and 4.3GHz on the E cores being a good balance of clock speed to voltage needed, though if you want to do a pure undervolt you want to dial in 5.3GHz on the P cores, 4.2GHz on the E cores, and 4.8GHz on the ring. Do note that, in my experience at least, the ring clock will be the biggest factor for how much voltage you need, so you might be better off dropping down the ring clock 100-200MHz as that might get you a bit more voltage headroom, though the ring clock can be pretty important in some workloads. Once you have this setup, enter in an override voltage. Do something like 1.35-1.4V, you will tweak this setting a lot so don't worry about exactly what it is right now, your main goal is to set something high enough that you won't instantly crash and so you can see what your actual voltage value is (LLC will mean this value can be something like 100mV lower than what you actually set when you're running a stress test, so the goal for this is to figure out where this lines up in comparison to the stock 1.3V). 

 

Boot up into Windows and run your stress test of choice. Generally when I'm doing 13th gen overclocking I prefer OCCT AVX small FFTs, but if you prefer something like Prime95 or XTU that's fine as well. Start running the stress test and make sure that it doesn't instantly crash, at least within about a minute, and see roughly where the voltage ends up using HWINFO. Once you figure that out, head into the BIOS, reduce the voltage until you're below stock values, and do a quick check for stability again. Repeat until it crashes, then slowly start walking the voltage back up (I'd go in 10mV increments, though you can do more or less depending on your level of patience) and wait until it can run for about an hour, making sure that HWINFO isn't detecting any WHEA errors (this generally means that the ring is a little too unstable). If you want to try messing around with them, the PLL voltages can help reduce the amount of VCore you need for a specific clock speed, though these tend to sweet spot so whether or not you want to play around with them is your call. 

Firs t of all I want to apologize for not giving any update, have been pretty busy at work. I followed your advice and installed the Thermalright contact frame and the results have been pretty amazing. I want to tinker a bit more and go further with OC and undervolt, but I'm waiting to have some spare time, I'll follow what you've posted when the time come.

 

Thanks!!

Spoiler

https://imgur.com/a/nvLhj7T

On 1/25/2023 at 5:00 PM, Ebony Falcon said:

What is you voltage underload ? 
 

my 13600k was 1.375 at stock and hit 100c instantly in r23

 

lite mode dropped me to 1.15v underload and down into the 70’s for temps 

 

try a manual voltage of 1.2v as a starting point and lee dropping it untill u crash then put it back up abit 

 

 

 

In the last test I did (with the contact frame installed) I its in 1.343 V with mode 1 activated. Which seems to be pretty high from what you say.

Thanks for answering.

[Ebony Falcon]

8 hours ago, ChopNorris said:

Firs t of all I want to apologize for not giving any update, have been pretty busy at work. I followed your advice and installed the Thermalright contact frame and the results have been pretty amazing. I want to tinker a bit more and go further with OC and undervolt, but I'm waiting to have some spare time, I'll follow what you've posted when the time come.

 

Thanks!!

  Reveal hidden contents

https://imgur.com/a/nvLhj7T

 

In the last test I did (with the contact frame installed) I its in 1.343 V with mode 1 activated. Which seems to be pretty high from what you say.

Thanks for answering.

Do manual 1.2 then bro