3570k higher temps with custom-loop

[AdequateShrimp]

Edit: double post

[Leonard]

Can the cpu VRM have anything to do with this, or perhaps is the TIM under the ihs at its maximum thermal conductivty and cant dissipate the heat fast enough,... idk just throughing things out, i really have no idea

The CPU VRM won't hamper the CPU temperature but it would interfere with the motherboard's temperatures. The LE Plus has 6 power phases for the CPU and that is not nearly enough to cause a problem. This is basically the same setup as the H100 but just better so if the VRM temperatures did not hamper the overall CPU temperature then how can it do so now? What fans are you using for the push pull? What TIM are you using? What coolant?

 

Also, the XSPC Raystorm block has a slightly better heat dissipation when you place the inlet on the left side of the of the CPU and i am not saying that is is the problem, i am just saying as i have one myself. 

[AdequateShrimp]

The CPU VRM won't hamper the CPU temperature but it would interfere with the motherboard's temperatures. The LE Plus has 6 power phases for the CPU and that is not nearly enough to cause a problem. This is basically the same setup as the H100 but just better so if the VRM temperatures did not hamper the overall CPU temperature then how can it do so now? What fans are you using for the push pull? What TIM are you using? What coolant?

 

Also, the XSPC Raystorm block has a slightly better heat dissipation when you place the inlet on the left side of the of the CPU and i am not saying that is is the problem, i am just saying as i have one myself. 

fans: 2x corsair sp120-l, 2 coolermaster sickle flow, 2x air penetrators 121

current Tim is just zalman stg-2

coolant : feser one blue,

side note: how would switching the inlet on the raystorm help wouldn't that hinder its performance since thats where the stainless steel spreader is, making it harder for the water to flow out?

[Leonard]

fans: 2x corsair sp120-l, 2 coolermaster sickle flow, 2x air penetrators 121

current Tim is just zalman stg-2

coolant : feser one blue,

side note: how would switching the inlet on the raystorm help wouldn't that hinder its performance since thats where the stainless steel spreader is, making it harder for the water to flow out?

Firstly, the fans you have are good and high static pressure fans, or at least the SP120 and the AP121 are, not sure about the sickle flow.

Secondly, TIM could do with an upgrade.

Thirdly, i never said switching the inlet as that is impossible i meant the orientation of the Raystorm block itself. Like instead of have the fitting be horizontal you just depress the block from the block's shroud, turn it for the fittings to be in a vertical orientation and put the block back into the shroud. Now for me it gave me only 2 degrees cooler. This was a recommendation from someone at frozencpu where i bought my kit from.

 

Did you flush your radiator before assembly?

 

Now i am going to ask you one last question and please do not take it as i am thinking you are stupid or anything like that.....Do you remember removing the thin protective plastic covering off of the CPU block's cold plate? Sometimes people forget to do this. 

 

One of the things i would do to check if all parts in the loop are working would be to measure the flow rate with a flow meter in different places. This would tell you if there are or where restrictions would be but you don't have flow meter lying around so this may put you in expense.

[AdequateShrimp]

Firstly, the fans you have are good and high static pressure fans, or at least the SP120 and the AP121 are, not sure about the sickle flow.

Secondly, TIM could do with an upgrade.

Thirdly, i never said switching the inlet as that is impossible i meant the orientation of the Raystorm block itself. Like instead of have the fitting be horizontal you just depress the block from the block's shroud, turn it for the fittings to be in a vertical orientation and put the block back into the shroud. Now for me it gave me only 2 degrees cooler. This was a recommendation from someone at frozencpu where i bought my kit from.

 

Did you flush your radiator before assembly?

 

Now i am going to ask you one last question and please do not take it as i am thinking you are stupid or anything like that.....Do you remember removing the thin protective plastic covering off of the CPU block's cold plate? Sometimes people forget to do this. 

 

One of the things i would do to check if all parts in the loop are working would be to measure the flow rate with a flow meter in different places. This would tell you if there are or where restrictions would be but you don't have flow meter lying around so this may put you in expense.

1) yes the radiator has been flushed with distilled (even though its pre factory flushed), I then also ran distilled water throught the loop before putting coolant in for about 16 hours to clean everything else.

2)100% sure ive removed the plastic covering... I've already removed the block a few times trying previous recommendations from others aswell which i know without a doubt from looking at it many times, has had the plastic static sealed cover removed

3) when i was filling the loop with both distilled and coolant the fluid was flowing quite fast through both the block and rad. i still  remember since i put this loop together less than a week ago. (looked like it was pushing about 1/3 of a litre per second which is what its rated for on speed 5/5. 

 

when i was cleaning out the rad just by it self for the first time I shook it for about 2-3 mins quite vigorously (and no dust/solder flux came out)

the sickle flows are decent pressure as well there maybe a 'fudge factior" but overall im pleased with there airflow and ability to push through a rad http://www.ncix.com/detail/cooler-master-r4-l2r-20ac-120mm-blue-2e-42176.htm for the stats

[Leonard]

1) yes the radiator has been flushed with distilled (even though its pre factory flushed), I then also ran distilled water throught the loop before putting coolant in for about 16 hours to clean everything else.

2)100% sure ive removed the plastic covering... I've already removed the block a few times trying previous recommendations from others aswell which i know without a doubt from looking at it many times, has had the plastic static sealed cover removed

3) when i was filling the loop with both distilled and coolant the fluid was flowing quite fast through both the block and rad. i still  remember since i put this loop together less than a week ago. (looked like it was pushing about 1/3 of a litre per second which is what its rated for on speed 5/5. 

 

when i was cleaning out the rad just by it self for the first time I shook it for about 2-3 mins quite vigorously (and no dust/solder flux came out)

the sickle flows are decent pressure as well there maybe a 'fudge factior" but overall im pleased with there airflow and ability to push through a rad http://www.ncix.com/detail/cooler-master-r4-l2r-20ac-120mm-blue-2e-42176.htm for the stats

Well i am stumped. I have a power quality pump than you and my 4.7Hgz OC is 62C or there abouts on the hottest core. If i use the TIM that came with the kit the hottest core goes up to 74C. Maybe it is the TIM,s capability to transfer the heat.

[Bagmup]

1) yes the radiator has been flushed with distilled (even though its pre factory flushed), I then also ran distilled water throught the loop before putting coolant in for about 16 hours to clean everything else.

2)100% sure ive removed the plastic covering... I've already removed the block a few times trying previous recommendations from others aswell which i know without a doubt from looking at it many times, has had the plastic static sealed cover removed

3) when i was filling the loop with both distilled and coolant the fluid was flowing quite fast through both the block and rad. i still  remember since i put this loop together less than a week ago. (looked like it was pushing about 1/3 of a litre per second which is what its rated for on speed 5/5. 

 

when i was cleaning out the rad just by it self for the first time I shook it for about 2-3 mins quite vigorously (and no dust/solder flux came out)

the sickle flows are decent pressure as well there maybe a 'fudge factior" but overall im pleased with there airflow and ability to push through a rad http://www.ncix.com/detail/cooler-master-r4-l2r-20ac-120mm-blue-2e-42176.htm for the stats

 

Would you mind turning the pump down to 1-2 speed and report temps for me, thanks.

[AdequateShrimp]

Well i am stumped. I have a power quality pump than you and my 4.7Hgz OC is 62C or there abouts on the hottest core. If i use the TIM that came with the kit the hottest core goes up to 74C. Maybe it is the TIM,s capability to transfer the heat.

It may just well be... kinda of weird, i would expect the stock stuff to be crap... but most benchmarks show the "higher-tier" tims are only between 1-5C between eachother... anyway thanks for the help though, will give it a try with mx-4 or arctic 5 and will post results either today or tomorrow or in a week if using arctic 5 and if they dont help well then it looks like im delidding the thing.

Would you mind turning the pump down to 1-2 speed and report temps for me, thanks.

ive already tried, temps were about 1-2C higher on the hottest core, so about 75ish on the hottest core

[rjbarker]

Tilt your Case to "extreme" levels while pump running....in all directions and when you think you have done this nough,,,keep doing it for another 5 min or so....be careful when tilting to extreme angles not to let your Res suck air.......that wil eliminate trapped air bubbles!!!

It may take several days for all the micro bubbles to disappear.

 

TIM on your Chip is very likely not the issue....a little too much...a tad bit under...isnt going to miraculously drop your teos by a huge amount.

 

Was your H100i push / pull as well ? If so, dont expect miracles as I notice you're also using a Swiftech "High Density" Rad in which case it requires high RPM Fans to operate efficiently....even push / pull with the wrong fans can make a big difference...

 

I had excellent results when I used both the H100i and the H320 AIO's....by far the huge advantage of goingwith a Custom Loop is to Water Cool the GPU / GPU's....going this route from a good AIO just to cool CPU isnt worth it imho

[AdequateShrimp]

Tilt your Case to "extreme" levels while pump running....in all directions and when you think you have done this nough,,,keep doing it for another 5 min or so....be careful when tilting to extreme angles not to let your Res suck air.......that wil eliminate trapped air bubbles!!!

It may take several days for all the micro bubbles to disappear.

 

TIM on your Chip is very likely not the issue....a little too much...a tad bit under...isnt going to miraculously drop your teos by a huge amount.

 

Was your H100i push / pull as well ? If so, dont expect miracles as I notice you're also using a Swiftech "High Density" Rad in which case it requires high RPM Fans to operate efficiently....even push / pull with the wrong fans can make a big difference...

 

I had excellent results when I used both the H100i and the H320 AIO's....by far the huge advantage of goingwith a Custom Loop is to Water Cool the GPU / GPU's....going this route from a good AIO just to cool CPU isnt worth it imho

1) I ran the h100i with the stock sp 120-l models in pull

2) I tilted the case for about 6-7 mins, i had the help of my buddy who i gave my h100i to help me with, changing the the way we tilted it as well eg: forward, back, left, right and a little bit of shaking in all directions, aswell as almost putting it down on its side panel side also being sure to let bubble form in res.

3) the rad is throwing plenty of air out of the top of my case... I got 2x sp 120 and a sickle flow in push and 2x ap121 and 1 sickle in pull

 

i went this rought for 3 reasons : to clock higher, reduce noice, and to add a gpu later when i get a higher tier card to liquid cool to boost oc potential.

[Bagmup]

ive already tried, temps were about 1-2C higher on the hottest core, so about 75ish on the hottest core

 

I had the same trouble going from a AIO to a xspc raystorm kit on a 8350. I tried all different types of TIM, distilled water, pre mixed coolant. I never managed to fix the problem, the cpu ran hotter with the raystorm than with the crappy AIO. I ended putting it down to that the xspc cpu block isn't all that great.

[rjbarker]

Its the GPU cooling you'll get the huge benefit and "wow" factor...as I said...going from a good AIO to Custom not a big deal....AIO's are pretty darn good liquid coolers for just a CPU....when I had my H100i I ditched those aweful Corsair leaf blowers and went with Noctua NF F Series...was very quiet

 

As for looking for better cooling for higher OC's....hhhmmmm...even if you gan 5-8c tempwise its not going to yielda great increase in OC.....now if you were going from a cheap Air Cooler to your presen t config you would notice a hue difference

 

Just sayin.....

[AdequateShrimp]

I had the same trouble going from a AIO to a xspc raystorm kit on a 8350. I tried all different types of TIM, distilled water, pre mixed coolant. I never managed to fix the problem, the cpu ran hotter with the raystorm than with the crappy AIO. I ended putting it down to that the xspc cpu block isn't all that great.

which is weird since some benchmarks show that it performs moderately well

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup

[topsu]

Are you using right inlet and outlet on your cpu block?

[AdequateShrimp]

Its the GPU cooling you'll get the huge benefit and "wow" factor...as I said...going from a good AIO to Custom not a big deal....AIO's are pretty darn good liquid coolers for just a CPU....when I had my H100i I ditched those aweful Corsair leaf blowers and went with Noctua NF F Series...was very quiet

 

As for looking for better cooling for higher OC's....hhhmmmm...even if you gan 5-8c tempwise its not going to yielda great increase in OC.....now if you were going from a cheap Air Cooler to your presen t config you would notice a hue difference

 

Just sayin.....

Yes your correct in every sense and i agree with you about the gpus,did i expect a huge temp difference of like 20C (hypothetically), no, but to have it actually slightly worse than the AIO h100i seems ridiculous at the least. But if just refuses to perform even marginally better, well then at least it still looks nice and is much quieter.

[AdequateShrimp]

Are you using right inlet and outlet on your cpu block?

To save you the reading of all the other posts, yes.

[Leonard]

It may just well be... kinda of weird, i would expect the stock stuff to be crap... but most benchmarks show the "higher-tier" tims are only between 1-5C between eachother... anyway thanks for the help though, will give it a try with mx-4 or arctic 5 and will post results either today or tomorrow or in a week if using arctic 5 and if they dont help well then it looks like im delidding the thing.

I wish i had the courage to delid my CPU. That whole delidding process is very frightening to me. I hope you get your done properly if you decide to do it.

[AdequateShrimp]

I wish i had the courage to delid my CPU. That whole delidding process is very frightening to me. I hope you get your done properly if you decide to do it.

Thanks, best of luck to you as well if you ever decide to.

[AdequateShrimp]

Success, I've delidded my cpu.. and now my temps are down to 63ish

[AdequateShrimp]

Here's some pics of the process for proof.... I would also like to thank all of you who spent your time trying to help me with my struggles. and sorry for the sideways pictures, kind of forgot to turn camera to the right angle (was in the heat of the moment), please dont snap your neck trying to look at them

 

.... yes the real temp was only runnning for 38 seconds but prime itself had been running for about 15-20 minutes.

[Joshua Ondangan]

lol I looked sideways and I'm glad your problem persist. but damn wish they made those better instead of the needs to delid them to keep them temps down.

[AdequateShrimp]

lol I looked sideways and I'm glad your problem persist. but damn wish they made those better instead of the needs to delid them to keep them temps down.

I might try liquid ultra later on down the road, since now it be such a hussle to remove the ihs from now on... i managed to clock up to 4.9ghz. but yeah, intel needs to stop cheaping out on the TIM, not like it will bankrupt them by doing so.

[Leonard]

I might try liquid ultra later on down the road, since now it be such a hussle to remove the ihs from now on... i managed to clock up to 4.9ghz. but yeah, intel needs to stop cheaping out on the TIM, not like it will bankrupt them by doing so.

Nice work and i am glad it was a success. When i delid mine i will use EKWB's Precise Mount for naked Ivy Bridge.....http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-precisemount-add-on-naked-ivy.html