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Some please help!!! Power issues!

Googoo
By Googoo
in Troubleshooting
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My computer is brand new had my motherboard RMA, because i found out it would not power on with cpu, when it should. Got new board back, we good, works with it. Than my power suppy wasn't up for the task either, because it power on than turned off, for good, tried to reset it by waiting hours, overnight, with psu unplugged and it powered back on then powered back off for good, a second time, oh boi. Guess I'll replace the power supply. Also had it RMA, so i a technically a new unwrapped antec hcg 650w that I'm going to sell, but still replaced with evga 1000w supernova p6 power suppy. Oh great! It works! Haaza! Oh noooooooooo! It turned on, i turn off, omg god all i need to do is install windows 10 baby and I'm  all good, 'click' why no power.

 

I'm dead, now crying inside writing this btw.

 

Computer specs:

Cpu: ryzen 5600x

Gpu: msi 3070 ti supreme x 

 Motherboard: msi b550 a pro 

Power supply: evga supernova 1000w p6

Ram: ripjaws 2×8

Storage: inland nvme 2t performance

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I thought oh I'll build my own desktop pc it would be cool and easy.

Got two defective computer components. Oh what else? My computer won't turn on, what reason is it now :`( 

Becuase it ain't obvious this time. Im lost and never felt better hahaha I'm lying. 

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7 minutes ago, Googoo said:

I thought oh I'll build my own desktop pc it would be cool and easy.

Got two defective computer components. Oh what else? My computer won't turn on, what reason is it now :`( 

Becuase it ain't obvious this time. Im lost and never felt better hahaha I'm lying. 

Maybe the old PSU is a mass murderer that kills motherboards so the replacement can also be dead.

A PC Enthusiast since 2011
AMD Ryzen 7 5700X@4.65GHz | GIGABYTE RTX 3080 GAMING OC | 4x 8GB Micron Rev.E (D9VPP) 3800MHz 16-19-14-21-58
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Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Vishera said:

Maybe the old PSU is a mass murderer that kills motherboards so the replacement can also be dead.

image.png.5c18fa0efe38da9dfe399125882fc620.png

Edited by An0maly_76
Revised, more info

I don't badmouth others' input, I'd appreciate others not badmouthing mine. *** More below ***

 

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

Due to the above, I've likely revised posts <30 min old, and do not think as you do.

THINK BEFORE YOU REPLY!

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Yikes. Sounds rough my dude. Sorry you're having so much trouble with your PC.

 

I'll be honest though, It doesn't sound like a power issue to me. Sounds like hardware. Your motherboard will power cycle if there is something wrong with the hardware one way or another. Unfortunately, there's no easy way to tell what it is.

 

Only troubleshooting. First off, you don't need all the ram in just to boot. So to eliminate the possibility of RAM being your issue, just leave one stick in. Try to boot. if you have the same issue, change slots or RAM sticks.

 

Try re-seating the CPU. That is, take it out and put it back in. Make sure your cooler has even pressure on the CPU. Tighten screws diagonally from each other in a star-pattern. Make sure your CPU's 4 or 8 pin power connector is secure. Make sure your 18 pin power connector is secure. Same deal with your GPU. Try booting with it. Try booting without it.

Just go down the list of components and see if changing them gets you different results.

 

 

"Although there's a problem on the horizon; there's no horizon." - K-2SO

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@Googoo

I'm not a fan of MSI components, frankly. And I've heard some things about EVGA as well. Have you given any thought to a possible problem in the electrical circuit feeding the machine? It's not that common, but it happens.

 

EDIT: Also a long shot, but there could be a screw or something hiding underneath the board shorting it out against the case, or even a flaky ATX power block on the board itself. What about the cord? Have you tried swapping it out?

I don't badmouth others' input, I'd appreciate others not badmouthing mine. *** More below ***

 

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

Due to the above, I've likely revised posts <30 min old, and do not think as you do.

THINK BEFORE YOU REPLY!

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How many antec cables are being used with the EVGA power supply?

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tb, CORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

Oppbevaring

CPU i9-9900k, Motherboard, ASUS Rog Maximus Code XI, RAM, 48GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200 mhz (2x16)+(2x8) GPUs Asus ROG Strix 2070 8gb, PNY 1080, Nvidia 1080, Case Mining Frame, 2x Storage Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB, PSU Corsair RM1000x and RM850x, Cooling Asus Rog Ryuo 240 with Noctua NF-12 fans

 

Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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58 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

@Googoo

I'm not a fan of MSI components, frankly. And I've heard some things about EVGA as well. Have you given any thought to a possible problem in the electrical circuit feeding the machine? It's not that common, but it happens.

 

EDIT: Also a long shot, but there could be a screw or something hiding underneath the board shorting it out against the case, or even a flaky ATX power block on the board itself. What about the cord? Have you tried swapping it out?

What do you mean by electrical circuit problem, because i did thought that, just how would i go about it, diagnosing the problem? Becuase the only problem could only remain is my electrical system or whatever its called forcing my system not to power back on. 

 

Btw i rested my psu, unplugged waited a few minutes, i manage to power it back on, then immediately i powered it off, a few minutes passed, i checked to see if computer is working as it should, nope. same problem a third time.

 

The difference with antec hcg 650w and evga supernova 1000w p6, is the antec turn on and turned off on its own, where evga was to stay on for me to look at the bios. I turned off my computer to get ready for windows install, came back with being unable to power  back my computer.

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2 minutes ago, Googoo said:

What do you mean by electrical circuit problem, because i did thought that, just how would i go about it, diagnosing the problem? Becuase the only problem could only remain is my electrical system or whatever its called forcing my system not to power back on. 

 

Btw i rested my psu, unplugged waited a few minutes, i manage to power it back on, then immediately i powered it off, a few minutes passed, i checked to see if computer is working as it should, nope. same problem a third time.

 

The difference with antec hcg 650w and evga supernova 1000w p6, is the antec turn on and turned off on its own, where evga was to stay on for me to look at the bios. I turned off my computer to get ready for windows install, came back with being unable to power  back my computer.

Best left to a professional, electricity is extremely dangerous, but they make ground fault detectors that clamp around a high-voltage cable or other wiring and can detect certain problems in the line. That's just one example. Could be as simple as a worn-out receptacle or electrical noise, in which case replacement or a line conditioner / line-conditioner-equipped UPS is in order. That's not a substitute for correcting the problem, mind you, just a little extra protection.

I don't badmouth others' input, I'd appreciate others not badmouthing mine. *** More below ***

 

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

Due to the above, I've likely revised posts <30 min old, and do not think as you do.

THINK BEFORE YOU REPLY!

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11 minutes ago, An0maly_76 said:

Best left to a professional, electricity is extremely dangerous, but they make ground fault detectors that clamp around a high-voltage cable or other wiring and can detect certain problems in the line. That's just one example. Could be as simple as a worn-out receptacle or electrical noise, in which case replacement or a line conditioner / line-conditioner-equipped UPS is in order. That's not a substitute for correcting the problem, mind you, just a little extra protection.

Welp thank you so much! 

 

I think I'm gonna move foward with talking to a friend who knows more about this and later call a electrion to come fix it. Well at least i know my pc worth more than $1000 including my monitor is ok and fine.

Btw is it possible for my power suppy to be damaged by this problem, whatever the problem is?

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Posted (edited)
7 minutes ago, Googoo said:

Welp thank you so much! 

 

I think I'm gonna move foward with talking to a friend who knows more about this and later call a electrion to come fix it. Well at least i know my pc worth more than $1000 including my monitor is ok and fine.

Btw is it possible for my power suppy to be damaged by this problem, whatever the problem is?

Smart move. And yes, it is absolutely possible for power service issues to take out a PSU or anything connected to it.

 

EDIT: @Googoo

 

Here is some information on electrical wiring, etc, and suitable cords, etc.

 

The OP of that thread was blissfully unaware they were creating a fire hazard. What you don't know can kill you when it comes to electricity.

Edited by An0maly_76
Revised, more info

I don't badmouth others' input, I'd appreciate others not badmouthing mine. *** More below ***

 

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

Due to the above, I've likely revised posts <30 min old, and do not think as you do.

THINK BEFORE YOU REPLY!

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One other thing... If the PSU has bad or weak capacitors, it can take quite a few start attempts to actually get the machine started -- if it starts at all. Bad / weak capacitors will do that.

 

Basically, think of capacitors as reserve power. They store current to handle the increased "startup surge" load when hard drives, fans, and other components first start whirring to life. This puts a bit more load on the PSU at startup, the reason they have capacitors. If they are bad or weak, they lose voltage and current just like a discharging battery, and if they sit too long without running, they can make it very hard to start. Some will recover after a few attempts, others won't. Telltale sign is that if it runs fine if left running or started back up immediately after shutdown, but has problems if left to sit.

I don't badmouth others' input, I'd appreciate others not badmouthing mine. *** More below ***

 

MODERATE TO SEVERE AUTISTIC, COMPLICATED WITH COVID FOG

 

Due to the above, I've likely revised posts <30 min old, and do not think as you do.

THINK BEFORE YOU REPLY!

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As everything is relatively new it is unlikely to be a capacitor problem. Unlikely but not impossible.

Not easy to read but you give the impression it will go when you use the HDMI or Display port to run a monitor but not with the GPU. Yes? No?

If you try to run the monitor from a GPU it dies. Yes?

 

dj_ripcord suggests removing as much RAM as possible. Did that make a difference?

 

OP - "evga supernova 1000w p6, is the antec turn on and turned off on its own, where evga was to stay on for me to look at the bios."

Was this with the GPU or not? If with it have you tried without the GPU?

 

An0maly_76's comment "electricity is extremely dangerous" only applies if you take the PSU apart. The voltages in a computer are perfectly safe. They are the same as a car battery or lower.

 

As for a fire hazard, how?

 

An0maly_76 - "think of capacitors as reserve power. They store current to handle the increased "start-up surge" load .... the reason they have capacitors." - NO.

 

Capacitors in a power supply are to give a DC voltage so the switch mode circuitry will work. This circuit takes the input voltage and at high frequency puts it through a transformer to take the voltages down to the required ones. The switch mode part is controlled so the output voltages stay at the voltage required despite the input voltage which can be any where between 110 and 240 volts AC. The switch mode part wants DC hence a bridge rectifier, capacitors and then the switch mode transistors or MosFets.

 

Capacitors store voltage which can be released as current through a load.

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15 minutes ago, RollyShed said:

As everything is relatively new it is unlikely to be a capacitor problem. Unlikely but not impossible.

Not easy to read but you give the impression it will go when you use the HDMI or Display port to run a monitor but not with the GPU. Yes? No?

If you try to run the monitor from a GPU it dies. Yes?

 

dj_ripcord suggests removing as much RAM as possible. Did that make a difference?

 

OP - "evga supernova 1000w p6, is the antec turn on and turned off on its own, where evga was to stay on for me to look at the bios."

Was this with the GPU or not? If with it have you tried without the GPU?

 

An0maly_76's comment "electricity is extremely dangerous" only applies if you take the PSU apart. The voltages in a computer are perfectly safe. They are the same as a car battery or lower.

 

As for a fire hazard, how?

 

An0maly_76 - "think of capacitors as reserve power. They store current to handle the increased "start-up surge" load .... the reason they have capacitors." - NO.

 

Capacitors in a power supply are to give a DC voltage so the switch mode circuitry will work. This circuit takes the input voltage and at high frequency puts it through a transformer to take the voltages down to the required ones. The switch mode part is controlled so the output voltages stay at the voltage required despite the input voltage which can be any where between 110 and 240 volts AC. The switch mode part wants DC hence a bridge rectifier, capacitors and then the switch mode transistors or MosFets.

 

Capacitors store voltage which can be released as current through a load.

Uhm... i have not tried taking out ram to see if it helps the situation, however im sure to have used the hdmi cable connect from gpu to monitor. I was able to look at bios for maybe 3-5 minutes, this is with evga. Antec, was able to power on my system just fine, btw this is after my board was RMA, so new board with antec, i hadn't plug my hdmi cable to my monitor, left for a drink of water maybe took at most 2 minutes came back with my computer powered off unable to power back on, antec. Evga was able to withstand from what i remember a bit more longer for me turn off the system myself, i was able to power it back actually only did to reconfigure my ram location as the bios recommended it when i first booted my computer, when it was off i reconfigure ram, it seems fine. This is when i went get ready to install windows, but when i got back, my computer did not power on. I did reset it by leaving it unplugged for a few minutes, it was able to power on, but i power it off immediately went off doing something else, to come check if the same problem is occurring and it has, as it won't power back on. This all i can note down of steps that got me here, unless you like to know where i got my parts, that about all i think i did. I hope this helps, also thank you for your information.

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 Update your bios. 
 

When you try to turn the computer on do any lights come on at all?

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tb, CORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

Oppbevaring

CPU i9-9900k, Motherboard, ASUS Rog Maximus Code XI, RAM, 48GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200 mhz (2x16)+(2x8) GPUs Asus ROG Strix 2070 8gb, PNY 1080, Nvidia 1080, Case Mining Frame, 2x Storage Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB, PSU Corsair RM1000x and RM850x, Cooling Asus Rog Ryuo 240 with Noctua NF-12 fans

 

Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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Oh also its all puged into a outlit power strip 6 oulet extension, that i bought in Walmart mart for $10 and it does have ground and the cable looks thick but not to sure, and the cable legnth is maybe 1 feet and a half. The thing is i had a lamp pluged in this as well turn on and had not seen it flash or turn off once during this pc problem, and yes the lamp was on at times during the pc build to powering issue.

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Just now, Googoo said:

Yes i was able to see bios on monitor and their was a white light on my motherboard when the computer was on. 

Okay, and have you updated it?

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B550-A-PRO/support
The board you got back from RMA might have come with an older BIOS. 

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tb, CORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

Oppbevaring

CPU i9-9900k, Motherboard, ASUS Rog Maximus Code XI, RAM, 48GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200 mhz (2x16)+(2x8) GPUs Asus ROG Strix 2070 8gb, PNY 1080, Nvidia 1080, Case Mining Frame, 2x Storage Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB, PSU Corsair RM1000x and RM850x, Cooling Asus Rog Ryuo 240 with Noctua NF-12 fans

 

Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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1 minute ago, IkeaGnome said:

Okay, and have you updated it?

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B550-A-PRO/support
The board you got back from RMA might have come with an older BIOS. 

No the box, says 5000 series ready, im sure its not the bios, if anything maybe the cmos battery could be an issue

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Just now, Googoo said:

No the box, says 5000 series ready, im sure its not the bios, if anything maybe the cmos battery could be an issue

But it’s giving you all the signs of an incompatible bios. 
 

As you were then. Tear the computer down and RMA everything. 

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tb, CORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

Oppbevaring

CPU i9-9900k, Motherboard, ASUS Rog Maximus Code XI, RAM, 48GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200 mhz (2x16)+(2x8) GPUs Asus ROG Strix 2070 8gb, PNY 1080, Nvidia 1080, Case Mining Frame, 2x Storage Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB, PSU Corsair RM1000x and RM850x, Cooling Asus Rog Ryuo 240 with Noctua NF-12 fans

 

Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

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52 minutes ago, Googoo said:

however im sure to have used the hdmi cable connect from gpu to monitor.

Plug the HDMI cable into the motherboard, not the GPU. Remove the GPU and try it. There appear to be HDMI and Display port sockets available.

 

What county are you in as English doesn't appear to be your native language?

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