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Hello everyone.

 

So I am sitting with a bit of a problem. This the most powerful PC I have ever had, and I tried overclocking and tightening timings to increase my performance as much as I could. I even debloated and stripped down windows 10 to help achieve better performance.

 

I want to upgrade but I don't know what I should upgrade first. Any advice is appreciated.

 

My current rig:

 

CPU: AMD R5 3600 overclocked to 4.5GHz @ 1.365v.

CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2.

Motherboard: Asrock B450 Steel Legend.

RAM: 2 x 8GB GSkill Ripjaws 3200MHz (With tighter timings and sub timings thanks to the DRAM Calculator).

GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 undervolted to 1911MHZ at 0.925V.

PSU: Super Flower 650w 80+ GOLD

Case: Phanteks P400A.

 

Peripherals:

 

Keyboard: Corsair K55

Mouse: Logitech G502 Hero

Headset: HyperX Cloud Revolver S

Monitor: Dell S2421HGF 144Hz with FreeSync.

 

My Performance:

 

Vermintide 2:

Average framerate:  126.5 FPS
Minimum framerate:   81.8 FPS
Maximum framerate:  143.4 FPS <- framerate cap of 144.
1% low framerate:   83.6 FPS
0.1% low framerate:   63.4 FPS

 

Rust:

Average framerate:   94.1 FPS
Minimum framerate:   40.9 FPS
Maximum framerate:  156.9 FPS <- removed framerate cap.
1% low framerate:   52.0 FPS
0.1% low framerate:    2.8 FPS

 

My current RAM timings:

Timings.png

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You'd want a stronger CPU and a better motherboard.

 

1080p? How about a 1440p monitor?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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8 minutes ago, Dr_Nooberious said:

GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 undervolted to 1911MHZ at 0.925V.

I had 2 1080 SC2’s and they both hit about 2ghz. Why not stop undervolting it, increase power limit to max, and use EVGA precisions built in overclock tool (it seriously got me within 1 boost bin of what I could get after spending hours doing it manually on my 1080’s and 2080), and shoot for ~100 MHz bump. Should be worth a few FPS. Did you bump GPU VRAM speeds at all? 

Rig: i7 13700k +Contact Frame - - Asus Z790-P Wifi - - RTX 4080 - - 4x16GB 6000MHz - - Samsung 990 Pro 2TB NVMe Boot + Main Programs - - Crucial P3 2TB NVMe for photo work - - Corsair RM850x - - Sound BlasterX EA-5 - - Corsair XC8 JTC Edition - - Corsair GPU Full Cover GPU Block - - PTM 7950 - - XT45 X-Flow 420 + UT60 280 rads externally mounted - - EK XRES RGB PWM - - Fractal Define S2 - - DellAlienware AW3423DWF 34" -- Logitech Pro X Superlight - - Logitech G710+ - - LTT Northern Lights Deskpad

 

Headphones/amp/dac: Schiit Bifrost Multibit - -  Schiit Lyr 3 - - Fostex TR-X00 - - Sennheiser HD 6xx

 

Homelab/Media Server: Proxmox VE host - - 512 NVMe Samsung 980 RAID Z1 for VM's/Proxmox boot - - Xeon e5 2660 V4- - Supermicro X10SRF-i - - 128 GB ECC 2133 - - 10x8TB WD Red RAID Z2 - - 2x 800 GB SAS SSD’s (1 SLOG, 1 L2Arc) - - 45 HomeLab HL15 15 Drive 4U - - Corsair RM650i - - LSI 9305-16i HBA - - TreuNAS + many other VM’s

 

Unifi UDM Pro in front of full unifi network infrastructure

 

iPhone 17 Pro - - MacBook Air M3

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20 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

You'd want a stronger CPU and a better motherboard.

 

1080p? How about a 1440p monitor?

I have a 1440p monitor, it is just in another country at the moment. 

20 minutes ago, Jeppes said:

Cpu to 5600/5800x3d should be a noticeable upgrade. Those are still relatively low power so no need to swap boards.

The 5600 and x don't give enough performance in my opinion to bother with. The 5700x, 5800x3d, and the 5900x are more in line with what I thought would be a great upgrade.

 

 

19 minutes ago, IAmNik said:

GPU would be my first choice, personally but giving the current market lolol idk

I bought my 1080 from a miner and it works great. And I am happy to see the 2nd hand markets as well as retailers having lower prices.

12 minutes ago, LIGISTX said:

I had 2 1080 SC2’s and they both hit about 2ghz. Why not stop undervolting it, increase power limit to max, and use EVGA precisions built in overclock tool (it seriously got me within 1 boost bin of what I could get after spending hours doing it manually on my 1080’s and 2080), and shoot for ~100 MHz bump. Should be worth a few FPS. Did you bump GPU VRAM speeds at all? 

The performance gain was minimal at best so instead I turned to undervolting. Went from 180 watts to 125ish watts and I lost about a frame or two.

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1 hour ago, Dr_Nooberious said:

I have a 1440p monitor, it is just in another country at the moment. 

The 5600 and x don't give enough performance in my opinion to bother with. The 5700x, 5800x3d, and the 5900x are more in line with what I thought would be a great upgrade.

 

 

I bought my 1080 from a miner and it works great. And I am happy to see the 2nd hand markets as well as retailers having lower prices.

The performance gain was minimal at best so instead I turned to undervolting. Went from 180 watts to 125ish watts and I lost about a frame or two.

On that board I wouldn't go above 5700X. Even a 5800X is too much.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Huawei OptiXstar EG8145X6-10 - 1000/500 Mbps fiber optic Internet access
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 13 16GB/512GB - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color - Miyoo A30 Spruce
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4 GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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2 hours ago, Dr_Nooberious said:

CPU: AMD R5 3600 overclocked to 4.5GHz @ 1.365v.

Crank it higher, stay under 1.45v tho

 

2 hours ago, Dr_Nooberious said:

RAM: 2 x 8GB GSkill Ripjaws 3200MHz

Have a look at your ram ic in thaiphoon burner cause for all i know cl14 is pretty hard to acheive unless you got some good ram die like samsung b die, micron b/e die, etc.

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2 hours ago, 191x7 said:

On that board I wouldn't go above 5700X. Even a 5800X is too much.

Asrock in their infinite wisdom thought it was a great idea to push 1.45v into my 3600 and solely rely on LLC to stop the CPU from exploding. 97 Celsius at stock setting with the stock cooler running at 3.8GHZ all core. OCd to 4.2 all core at 1.15v LLC 3 and got 70 Celsius with the stock cooler.

 

My plan is to fine tweak the voltage if I get a better CPU.

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1 hour ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

Crank it higher, stay under 1.45v tho

 

Have a look at your ram ic in thaiphoon burner cause for all i know cl14 is pretty hard to acheive unless you got some good ram die like samsung b die, micron b/e die, etc.

I followed Hardware Unboxed's very helpful video regarding tighter RAM timings on ryzen and used Thaiphoon Burner already.

 

I even managed to tighten the timings even further 🙂

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5 hours ago, Dr_Nooberious said:

I followed Hardware Unboxed's very helpful video regarding tighter RAM timings on ryzen and used Thaiphoon Burner already.

 

I even managed to tighten the timings even further 🙂

Is it samsung b die?

If it is you can crank the volt upto 1.7v for better freq and timings cause b die scales with volt to 2.05v but ofc above 1.5v needs active cooling over the rams

 

Though if its a normal bin like 3200 cl16 or 3600 cl18 they usually have mediocre or trash b die so not much to lose if you crank thr volts

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13 minutes ago, Dr_Nooberious said:

@Somerandomtechyboi

 

Sadly my RAM is not Samsung b die, it is Hynix C die. The CPU cooler is almost touching the RAM sticks so "active" cooling is on.

I mean do you have airflow over the rams?

 

I didnt know cjr could do cl14, the only impressive ocs ive seen are those 4400+ cl19 ocs out of these ics (similar to djr but abit worse)

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57 minutes ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

I mean do you have airflow over the rams?

 

I didnt know cjr could do cl14, the only impressive ocs ive seen are those 4400+ cl19 ocs out of these ics (similar to djr but abit worse)

Sorry I did not it more specific, but yes. My RAM does have active airflow blowing over it from my CPU cooler.

 

I followed along with Hardware Unboxed's video and left it alone, with the tighter timings, for a few weeks. I soon got bored and decided to try improving my performance again and again. A few BSODs later, and BIOS clears, later I had managed to drop one of the RAM timings by one.

 

tCL 13 does not boot at all and 14 is completely stable, so I moved onto tRCDWR and tRCDRD and so on. I think I still have more room to tightening the timing further.

 

The reason why I am overclocking my CPU and tightening my Timings is because I noticed my GPU utilization rarely hits 95% let alone 100%. A good examples of this is Vermintide 2, the only time I get 100% GPU utilization is when I am staring at a wall, all other times my utilization hovers around 70% to 80%.

Vermintide 2.png

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