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Sony STR-DH770 and LG C1 OLED > Recommended Resolution 640x480

Bad5ector

Hey gang,


I just picked up a shiny new LG C1 65" over the weekend. After playing around with it a bit, I have noticed some quirks that I wanted to run by you guys here and see if there is any work arounds. First off, I am aware of the fact that the LG C1 has HDMI 2.1 (4k/120hz ports and the STR-DH770 only has 2.0 (4k / 60hz) and I will never be able to get 120hz @ 4k using HDMI passthrough and ARC on this receiver. Which is fine, no plans to use this for a gaming screen at this time, and my HTPC only has a AMD RX560 4gb (HDMI 2.0). So it is limited to 4k/60 regardless.

 

If I do decide to game, I'll be plugging into TV directly for now... been tempted to slap my gaming 3080 equipped PC in and test out God of War in full 4k / HDR glory. But I digress.

 

My issue is that it all "auto detected" correctly once. And since then, I can't turn off my HTPC or  restart it, or else it will not detect the TV when connected via AVR. For example, if I need to reboot due to software update, the system will not output any display. This is with the HTPC>HDMI-in on AVR>HDMI-out from AVR (ARC)>TV. If I power down system and plug the HTPC into TV directly, it will power on and get display. Here in display properties, the recommended resolution is correct, 3840x2160, I can enable VRR (albeit at 60hz) and everything seems fine. However because the LG C1 doesn't support all the lossless Audio codecs (mainly DTS) through ARC/eARC, this isn't a viable solution for me as a lot of my media has DTS or DTS-MS audio. Sure I can transcode to DD 5.1 and it would work, but I don't want to use any transcoding if I don't have to, and I ripped the DTS audio from my BluRays for a reason.

 

SO, if I plug the HTPC back into the AVR without powering it off and switch inputs on the TV, bang I get an input from my HTPC and I can play my media as expected, with all audio and video options (DTS, 4k, HDR). Which is great, unless I have to restart, and then I have to do the above steps again to get it to register when plugged into the AVR.

 

After some dicking around, I found that when I plugged the HTPC into the AVR (after I set the resolution via a direct connection to the TV), that in the Windows Display properties, the resolution showed 384x2160 however it wasn't set to recommended, 640x480 is. I believe this is what is causing my troubles when powering down or restarting the HTPC, the AVR isn't communicating properly with TV and PC to establish a proper connection and it auto negotiates to the lowest resolution. 

 

Has anyone experienced anything like this before and if so, was there anything more permanent of a fix? Or is it like everything when it comes to A/V, have to deal with it until I upgrade... And if that is the case, any recommendations for a decent AVR that supports HDMI 2.1 passthrough 8k/60, 4k/120 and is known to work well with the LG C1? I have seen some reports of some Denon models causing some grief for C1 owners. If I can help it I'd like to avoid another gotcha lol. However with A/V there always seems to be something 😉 

 

Budget if AVR is only solution would be $1000 CAD or less (prefer less obvi, but willing to pay for something that works).

 

Edit: Speaker setup is 5.1 with the two front towers Bi-Amped. 

 

 

Thanks!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have Marantz SR7013 which is HDMI 2.0 AVR and LG C1. I use my PC for both gaming and media. 

 

I rarely use HDMI display from AVR to C1 with some exceptions like accessing AVR options. I use two HDMI cables, one from PC to AVR and one from PC to TV, that way I can have all sound formats including DTS (i hate you LG for removing DTS support). The only problem would be having second display enabled on PC, so for my situation I extended AVR's display to my secondary monitor.

 

For your situation try to connect one HDMI cable from PC to TV and another from PC to AVR, then duplicate the display. You'll have DTS and avoiding display issues from AVR. 

PC spec: CPU: RYZEN 9 5950X | GPU: SAPPHIRE NITRO+ SE AMD RADEON 6900XT (Undervolt to 1045mV) | MB: MSI MAG TOMAHAWK x570 RAM: G.SKILL TRIDENT Z NEO 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4-3600 (OC to 3800 14-15-15-25) COOLING: NOCTUA NH-D15, BE QUIET! SILENT WINGS 120 & 140mm| CASE: IN-WIN 707 | 5.25" BAY: LG WH16NS60 INTERNAL BLU-RAY OPTICAL DRIVE | PSU: SEASONIC PRIME PLATINUM 1000WUPS: POWERSHIELD COMMANDER TOWER 1100VA

PERIPHERALS: KEYBOARD: CORSAIR K95 PLATINUM XT BROWN SWITCH | MOUSE: CORSAIR SABRE PRO WIRELESS | CONTROLLER: PDP AFTERGLOW WIRED CONTROLLER, DUALSENSE
DISPLAYS: LG 34GN8502x DELL S2721DGF | LG C1 48" 

HT & audio stuff:  AVR: MARANTZ SR7013 | STEREO AMPLIFIER: YAMAHA AS-501 | SPEAKERS: DALI OBERON 7 & DALI ZENSOR 1 & 2x SVS-SB2000 | HEADPHONE DAC+AMP: TOPPING L30+E30 | HEADPHONE: SENNHEISER HD6XX, BOSE QUIETCOMFORT 35 II | MICROPHONE: AUDIO-TECHNICA AT9934USB | BLU-RAY PLAYER: PANASONIC UB820

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@BuzzingBeeThanks for your suggestion. The GPU only has HDMI and DP and I already tried using a DP to HDMI adapter after posting this to do pretty much exactly what you suggested (before reading your suggestion lol). It worked once, but then for some reason stopped sending audio down the second output to the receiver. At that point I gave up. But now I remember, I have an HDMI splitter that is 4k/60 compatible. Maybe I'll give that a try.

 

For the time being everything works fine, unless I have to reboot, then it's a bit of a song and dance to get working again. 

 

I have already started shopping for a new AVR anyways... need to get that Dolby Atmos... 😉 

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