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Uninstalling Loop

Hi Everyone,

 

I just finished installing my water-loop. However, I plugged in a RGB splitter the wrong way and have shorted one of the IC on the board. The PC runs fine, but it's likely I will need to replace the motherboard.

 

Is it unsafe to keep the water-blocks attached to the GPU and CPU, and the liquid in the loop when disconnecting them from the motherboard when replacing the MB in the system?

 

I used soft tubing for the loop, so the flexibility seems like it wouldn't be an issue to disconnect the GPU/CPU carefully and move them accordingly.

 

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since yer using soft tubing it shouldn't be an issue, do make sure your fittings are not being loosen when u move things around

 

I did my i7 4770k to r5 3600 swap without disassembling my loop

Ryzen 5700x + EK Supremacy D-RGB | 2x8 GB DDR4 Klevv 3200 MT/s | MSI B550M Mortar | Palit 3070 GamingPro LHR + Bykski N-PT3070PRO-X | Corsair RM750 | Alphacool EPDM + QDC | Aquacomputer Quadro + HighFlow2 | EK D5 XTOP | Freezemod 360 30mm rad + Barrow Dabel-20b 360 20mm | Barrow & Freezemod fittings | Corsair 5000D Airflow
 
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If you can get away with it, theres no harm is keeping in all together. As long as the connections are good and dont mind the risk of a leak.

Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 9900k, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero, G.Skill Ripjaws 3600 32GB, 3090FE, EVGA 1000G5, Acer Nitro XZ3 2560 x 1440@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Lian Li O11 AIR MINI, I7 4790K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 2400 32Gb, EVGA 1080ti, 1080sc 1070sc & 1060 SSC, EVGA 850GA, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz

 

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I do this all the time.  Once you crack the seal on soft tubing and take it off a barb...you have to replace that segment of tubing because it won't seal properly again.  If I have slack in the tubing I'll just shorten it an inch.

 

Be careful though with the tubing twisting and unscrewing fittings.  Also I've had other stuff like rotary fittings leak from having too much stress put on them.

Workstation:  14700nonk || Asus Z790 ProArt Creator || MSI Gaming Trio 4090 Shunt || Crucial Pro Overclocking 32GB @ 5600 || Corsair AX1600i@240V || whole-house loop.

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10 hours ago, AnonymousGuy said:

I do this all the time.  Once you crack the seal on soft tubing and take it off a barb...you have to replace that segment of tubing because it won't seal properly again. 

Depends on the tubing. I've had no issues removing and returning EK-ZMT to fittings (admittedly compression rather than barb). 

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Zmt is good for that, especially on multi barb. Moved on from using leaching clear tubing that can have those issues.

 

Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 9900k, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero, G.Skill Ripjaws 3600 32GB, 3090FE, EVGA 1000G5, Acer Nitro XZ3 2560 x 1440@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Lian Li O11 AIR MINI, I7 4790K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 2400 32Gb, EVGA 1080ti, 1080sc 1070sc & 1060 SSC, EVGA 850GA, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz

 

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I also have qdc on my gpu block, so I can swap out if I upgrade or need to troubleshoot it ✌️

Ryzen 5700x + EK Supremacy D-RGB | 2x8 GB DDR4 Klevv 3200 MT/s | MSI B550M Mortar | Palit 3070 GamingPro LHR + Bykski N-PT3070PRO-X | Corsair RM750 | Alphacool EPDM + QDC | Aquacomputer Quadro + HighFlow2 | EK D5 XTOP | Freezemod 360 30mm rad + Barrow Dabel-20b 360 20mm | Barrow & Freezemod fittings | Corsair 5000D Airflow
 
Audio: beyerdynamic DT 900 Pro X + iFi ZEN Air DAC + Razer Seiren Mini
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