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I am currently using the Philips Fidelio X2's but have since moved and need the isolation of close backs.


They will be used for gaming, working from home and listening to music, they will not be used in any professional capacity. 

 

From research it seems the Dt770 Pro 80's are highly recommended, however the new 700 pro x's seem more attractive due to the removeable cable - would they be overkill?

Many thanks

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There is no such thing as overkill. There are people out there using DT1990 for gaming too.

 

What is your budget and which platform? And from which source? I mean, onboard audio or amplifiers?

DAC/AMPs:

Klipsch Heritage Headphone Amplifier

Headphones: Klipsch Heritage HP-3 Walnut, Meze 109 Pro, Beyerdynamic Amiron Home, Amiron Wireless Copper, Tygr 300R, DT880 600ohm Manufaktur, T90, Fidelio X2HR

CPU: Intel 4770, GPU: Asus RTX3080 TUF Gaming OC, Mobo: MSI Z87-G45, RAM: DDR3 16GB G.Skill, PC Case: Fractal Design R4 Black non-iglass, Monitor: BenQ GW2280

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2 minutes ago, CTR640 said:

There is no such thing as overkill. There are people out there using DT1990 for gaming too.

 

What is your budget and which platform? And from which source? I mean, onboard audio or amplifiers?

Budget up to £250 which would cover the 700 Pro X, PC only and source currently into laptop but will likely get something like an FiiO E10K down the road. 

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31 minutes ago, cheeseisakindofmeat said:

From research it seems the Dt770 Pro 80's are highly recommended, however the new 700 pro x's seem more attractive due to the removeable cable - would they be overkill?

Personal opinion: I don't like either. Neither measure perfectly, and the main positive they have going for them is the build. If my opinion isn't enough, DMS said in his review of the new Pro X variants "Both of them don't really have much detail, this seems to be their biggest flaw... is the fact that these headphones really just sound overdamped, they're very dull" and also going on to later say that they sound shouty without EQ. "If this had the sound of the K361 or K371 in build this good... that would be incredible."

 

1701268884_Screenshot2022-01-09103053.thumb.png.f499a9e8cf91de7d478932e89c9c7ecc.png

 

My recommendations for closed-backs:

AKG K371

Shure SRH840

[Main Desktop]

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X  GPU: EVGA RTX 3070 Ti (FTW3 Ultra)  MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon (X470)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V DDR4-3600 CL16 (2x8GB)

COOLER: Arctic LiquidFreezer II 280 STORAGE: G.SKILL Phoenix FTL 240GB SSD, Crucial MX500 1TB SSD, Toshiba 2TB HDD, Seagate 4TB HDD

PSU: EVGA GQ-1000W 80+ Gold  CASE: The MESHMOD v1.0 (Custom Deepcool Matrexx 70 chassis)  MONITOR: AOC 24G2 144Hz (IPS) 

MOUSE: Logitech G502 HERO (wired)  KEYBOARD: Rosewill K81 RGB (Kailh Brown)  HEADPHONES: HiFiMan Ananda, Drop x Sennheiser HD6XX

IEMS: 7Hz Timeless, Tin Audio T2, Blon BL-03, Samsung/AKG Galaxy Buds Pro  STUDIO MONITORS: Mackie MR524, Mackie MRS10  MIC: NEAT Worker Bee  

INTERFACE: Focusrite Scarlett Solo  AMPLIFIER: SMSL SP200 THX AAA-888, XDUOO XD-05 Basic  DAC: SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKII (upgraded AK4493 Version)

WHEEL: Logitech G29 + Logitech G Shifter

 

[Stream Encoder]

CPU: AMD FX-9590  GPU: Sapphire R9 390X (Tri-X OC)  MOBO: ASUS Sabertooth R2.0 (AM3+)  RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X DDR3-1866 (2x8GB)

COOLER: EVGA CLC 280 PSU: MSI A750GF 80+ Gold CASE: Phanteks P400A Digital

 

[Garage]

CAR: 2003 Honda Civic Coupe LX (EM2)  ENGINE: D17A1, planned K20A2 swap  INTAKE: DIY Solutions Short RAM  HEADERS: Motor1 4-2-1 with Cat-Delete

EXHAUST: Yonaka 2.5" Cat-Back with 3.5" tip (YMCB-CIV0105)  COILOVERS: MaXpeedingrods adjustable  RIMS: Core Racing Concept Seven Alloys (15x6.5)

RECEIVER: Kenwood DPX304MBT  SOUND DEADENING: Damplifier Pro Deadening Mats  SOUND DAMPENING: Custom solution, layers of thick insulation

DOOR SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-P710PS 6.5" Components  WINDOW LEDGE SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-6996PS 6x9" 5-Ways

 

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