What PSU do you recommend? Also I do not quite understand the Tier List...

[PlatinumNico]

Hello guys, I am currently looking for a new ATX PSU for my upcoming build. The specs will be the following:

 

RTX 3080 Ti Founders Edition (will probably stay stock due to insufficient cooling)

Intel i7 12700K (may be overclocked in the future)

16GB DDR5 5200 (Kingston Fury)

Z690 Motherboard (probably MSI PRO Z690-A WIFI)

2x NVME SSD, 2x SATA SSD

4x 140mm fans

240 AIO (probably Lian Li Galahad)

 

With these specs I think I should get at least a 850W PSU but I will probably just go for a 1000W one.

 

I am totally aware of the PSU Tier List but I do not quite understand the additional "=>" and "<=" at some of the PSUs. 
I was thinking of the BeQuiet Straight Power 11 but it says Gold=>750W and Platinum<=750W. Does that mean if I wanna get the 1000W version I should take the 80+ Gold version over the 80+ Platinum one? Or would you recommend a totally different PSU? I have never had any problems with a BeQuiet PSU in the past so that was my first choice.

 

I hope someone could help me out, thank you!

[Helpful Tech Witch]

The => is that model, with more or eaqle or less or eaqule to that wattage, <= being less or equle and => being more or equle to the stated wattage

[PlatinumNico]

So it indeed means that the Gold is better with more than 750 than the Platinum with more than 750? What is the reason for that?

[Sakee__]

11 minutes ago, PlatinumNico said:

"=>" and "<="

As stated above, equivalent symbols are ≥ (equal or greater) and ≤ (equal or lesser). Using these symbols could make it easier to understand, but they are not available on keyboards (which would require more time from the list makers) and may have layout errors on some devices.

2 minutes ago, PlatinumNico said:

So it indeed means that the Gold is better with more than 750 than the Platinum with more than 750? What is the reason for that?

In the case of Tier A classification, all units need individual and detailed testing, which does not seem to be the case for some units in these Be Quiet! series, causing some to fall into the Tier A - Low Priority classification.

[PlatinumNico]

4 minutes ago, Sakee__ said:

In the case of Tier A classification, all units need individual and detailed testing, which does not seem to be the case for some units in these Be Quiet! series, causing some to fall into the Tier A - Low Priority classification.

Alright, thank you for that explanation.

So it would probably be good to buy the Platinum version as well? Or should I maybe go for a totally different PSU?

[Pixelfie]

2 minutes ago, PlatinumNico said:

Alright, thank you for that explanation.

So it would probably be good to buy the Platinum version as well? Or should I maybe go for a totally different PSU?

It's a good PSU, but there are often PSU's that are just as good but cheaper. Try finding something like a Corsair RMx or other cheaper tier A units. MSI AGF is also good but not the quietest

[PlatinumNico]

1 minute ago, Pixelfie said:

It's a good PSU, but there are often PSU's that are just as good but cheaper. Try finding something like a Corsair RMx or other cheaper tier A units. MSI AGF is also good but not the quietest

Well, I live in Germany and here the prices for the BeQuiet one and the Corsair RMx are both the same at 170 Euros currently so that would not make a difference.

[Pixelfie]

15 minutes ago, PlatinumNico said:

Well, I live in Germany and here the prices for the BeQuiet one and the Corsair RMx are both the same at 170 Euros currently so that would not make a difference.

They're about equally as good, but the RMx has 5 years more warranty

[PlatinumNico]

9 minutes ago, Pixelfie said:

They're about equally as good, but the RMx has 5 years more warranty

Well that's definitely a good point. But what about multi-rail and single-rail? The BeQuiet Straight Power 11 seems to be a multi-rail unit.

[Pixelfie]

10 minutes ago, PlatinumNico said:

Well that's definitely a good point. But what about multi-rail and single-rail? The BeQuiet Straight Power 11 seems to be a multi-rail unit.

Doesn't really matter, here's a good explanation by Corsair:

 

When a PSU is described as “single rail,” it means that all of the PSU’s power is available from a single source. Multiple-rail designs allocate the total available amperage across two or more “rails.” Single-rail PSUs can be much more convenient when setting up high-performance PCs, as they eliminate the need to balance the power load across multiple rails — all you need to worry about is whether your power supply meets the your system’s total power requirements.

But more importantly, there’s no effective difference in safety between single-rail and multi-rail PSUs. It’s been claimed that the higher amperage delivered across a single rail introduces risks not found with multiple rails with lower amperage.

[--SID--]

I don't recommand a bq Straight Power 11 750w with a 3080 Ti. The 12v rails for VGA are with 24A a bit weak. 30A is better. I've seen one trip with a 3090. With a 3080 To/3090 I prefer a single rail or switchable PSU. Corsair RMx/HX, Fractal Design ION+, Super Flower Leadex III Gold or XPG Core Reactor for example.

[PlatinumNico]

Oh thank you guys, I wasn't aware of these things. I will probably go for the Corsair RM1000X 2021 then!

[Daethz]

you don't need 1000Watts for a 3080TI but if you want to spend the money you can.

Id personally go with a 850w RMX unit.

 

With my 3080 EVGA with its 3 8pin connectors and a 5950x running on its automated overclock, my cyberpower battery backup system reports a flow of like 650-700 watts.

[Funkysss]

I heard that 2018 RMx are better in noise wise, more quiet if you like quiet pc. If not 2021 RMx should be great to.

Corsair HX also should be amazing, but cost lil bit more.

 

[Funkysss]

On 11/7/2021 at 11:26 PM, Daethz said:

you don't need 1000Watts for a 3080TI but if you want to spend the money you can.

Id personally go with a 850w RMX unit.

 

With my 3080 EVGA with its 3 8pin connectors and a 5950x running on its automated overclock, my cyberpower battery backup system reports a flow of like 650-700 watts.

Isn't 650 watts to close 850? I heard 3000 series like to spike in wattage sometimes. +psus work best at ~50-60% load? 650 would be ~75% of 850. I know 850 is "writen wattage" they can handle more, but still.

[PianoPlayer88Key]

On 11/6/2021 at 3:00 PM, Sakee__ said:

As stated above, equivalent symbols are ≥ (equal or greater) and ≤ (equal or lesser). Using these symbols could make it easier to understand, but they are not available on keyboards (which would require more time from the list makers) and may have layout errors on some devices.

They may not be available on keyboards directly, but last I checked, it's still possible to type them?

≥ = alt+242 (on Windows)
≤ = alt+243 (on Windows)
Some alt-codes date back to the 1980s / 1990s in MS-DOS ....
(although idk how to type them in Linux, or on Android...)

Back to PSUs ...
I've sometimes been trying to make sense myself of what some of the tiers mean.
For example, I presume Tier A means totally fine for anything but .... okay as I was about to type for the next couple tiers, I came to realize something ... one, that I'm confused on some things and trying to figure out how to type it out but ...
....
well .... there are some higher-wattage PSUs in the lower tiers (like Tier D), and some lower-wattage PSUs in higher tiers (A for example) ... I would think that you couldn't run a high-end system off a low-wattage PSU, even if it was high quality...
(For example, something with 8-way Xeon Platinum CPUs, 7-way NVLink Quadro A6000s (although I'd think with 8 CPUs you should be able to have a lot more than 7 PCIe x16 slots), etc ... on a 500W PSU (there's one at Tier A - Chieftec GPS-500C Fanless) ... yeah I don't think that's happening even with a VERY high-end PSU - I doubt even some of the 1600W units could handle that.)
Also I'd figure that if a PSU can't be maxed out 24/7 at least for the duration of the warranty, it's a tier PSU ...
(example of maxed out: let's say it's a 850W PSU... you'd be able to run 850W of components (whether it's GPUs, RAM, HDDs, SSDs, etc, wouldn't matter whether it's drawing from 12V, 5V, 3.3V, etc) in a room that's 50°C ambient temperature (measured with the computer shut off, for a PSU that's rated at 50°C), for at least, say, 10 years (or whatever the warranty is)....)
Anyway it's quite easy for me to get confused on some things...

Another example ...  Tier D, iGPU only...
That would seem to imply that as long as I'm running an iGPU or equivalent (or would a GT 710 require Tier C - low-end?) ... I could still run high-power-draw CPUs (like Threadripper/Epyc/Xeon/etc), lots of HDDs (a few dozen, perhaps?) and be fine with a PSU rated for iGPU only since I'm using a very low-end GPU?  (some server motherboards do have integrated graphics, on sockets that don't support APUs.... and btw that's an example, I'm not actually running a setup like that, at least not right now...)

Anyway I was starting to say something about .... thinking tier D would be for iGPU only, tier C might be for GPUs that don't require any PCIe power connector, tier B for GPUs that require up to, but not exceeding a single 6-pin or maybe a single 8-pin PCIe connector, and tier A being for everything above that.... but then the other things came to mind, like the apparent (in my mind) confusion between tiers, wattage, etc.

Yes, I'm aware of some things regarding different wattage PSUs, different construction ... but I would think that PSU wattage would in some cases be taken into account when tiering a PSU?  (For example, if it's low enough wattage to not be able to handle a high-end GPU, then it wouldn't be recommended in a high tier .... but.... yeah, I'm teh confuzzled.......)