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Hello guys!

 

This might be dumb, but please bear with me since this is my first pc build, for the last 8 years I had only laptops. I got a Ryzen 5900x and I'm using a NZXT X73 to cool it off, mounted in a Lian Li O11 as side intake. BIOS says PBO is disabled. However, whenever I run Cinebench R23, all cores go 4400-4450 Mhz and temperatures jumps directly to 86C then slowly rise to 90C where they stop increasing. Voltage reported by HWinfo sits at ~1.25V. NZXT fans are connected to CPU_FAN and at 90C they spin at ~2000 RPM. Pump is at ~2700-2800 RPM. That's how I set them in an attempt to cool down the CPU.

 

Are the temperatures normal? I'd want to render with this CPU but I'm afraid of leaving it overnight to render, knowing it will sit constantly at 90C. Any input will be very helpful.

 

Thank you!

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3 minutes ago, NoodleGangsta said:

Hello guys!

 

This might be dumb, but please bear with me since this is my first pc build, for the last 8 years I had only laptops. I got a Ryzen 5900x and I'm using a NZXT X73 to cool it off, mounted in a Lian Li O11 as side intake. BIOS says PBO is disabled. However, whenever I run Cinebench R23, all cores go 4400-4450 Mhz and temperatures jumps directly to 86C then slowly rise to 90C where they stop increasing. Voltage reported by HWinfo sits at ~1.25V. NZXT fans are connected to CPU_FAN and at 90C they spin at ~2000 RPM. Pump is at ~2700-2800 RPM. That's how I set them in an attempt to cool down the CPU.

 

Are the temperatures normal? I'd want to render with this CPU but I'm afraid of leaving it overnight to render, knowing it will sit constantly at 90C. Any input will be very helpful.

 

Thank you!

5900X is a 12 core CPU, and @4.5GHz its gonna be insanely hot, you should only worry if it gets above 95C.

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1 minute ago, Cool_Evlo said:

5900X is a 12 core CPU, and @4.5GHz its gonna be insanely hot, you should only worry if it gets above 95C.

I disagree. Assuming the temperature in the room isn't 40C or something, that's pretty high, especially for a 360mm AIO. My Scythe Fuma 2 in a Phantex P300A with added front fans can keep my temps at low-mid 70C at stock speeds running R23 when the ambient temp is in the low 20C range.

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Just now, YoungBlade said:

I disagree. Assuming the temperature in the room isn't 40C or something, that's pretty high, especially for a 360mm AIO. My Scythe Fuma 2 in a Phantex P300A with added front fans can keep my temps at low-mid 70C at stock speeds running R23 when the ambient temp is in the low 20C range.

To be honest, the ambient it is quite hot. Don't have something to measure it, but it is pretty hot. And also, both fans and pump are maxed out and since BIOS says PBO is disabled, I don't understand why the high temperatures..

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8 minutes ago, NoodleGangsta said:

To be honest, the ambient it is quite hot. Don't have something to measure it, but it is pretty hot. And also, both fans and pump are maxed out and since BIOS says PBO is disabled, I don't understand why the high temperatures..

High ambient temps will result in higher CPU temps, because while you are using a liquid cooler, that liquid itself is cooled by the air in the room.

 

Just some basic "did you plug it in" type questions:

 

Did you remove the plastic film from the bottom of the cold plate?

 

Does your computer have adequate access to fresh air? Is the case on a flat surface with several inches of free space on all sides, or is stuck under a desk, on carpet, with the intake side pressed against a wall?

 

Is the airflow in your case set up in a push-pull configuration, with some fans pulling in fresh air and some on the other side pushing out the hot air? So basically, are the other fan(s) in the case set up opposite of the radiator fans?

 

EDIT: I just looked into it, the X73 comes with pre-applied thermal paste, protected by a plastic enclosure thing, so there is no film on the bottom to leave on.

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Thermal transfer isn't quite as complicated as people make it out to be. Just start at the beginning and check everything.

 

Do you have the pump mounted correctly with good thermal paste? If not, nothing else matters and you should fix that first.

 

If your ambient temperature is high, you're not going to be able to transfer as much energy into the air.

 

What is the rest of your case's airflow pattern like? Do you have exhaust fans helping pull hot air out of the case?

 

A 360mm AIO should have enough thermal mass to prevent instant temperature swings. Your temperature spiking immediately sounds a whole lot like a bad cooler/cpu mount.

Primary Gaming Rig:

Ryzen 5 5600 CPU, Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI mITX motherboard, PNY XLR8 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 RAM, Mushkin PILOT 500GB SSD (boot), Corsair Force 3 480GB SSD (games), XFX RX 5700 8GB GPU, Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case, Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Gold SFX PSU, Windows 11 Pro, Dell S2719DGF 27.0" 2560x1440 155 Hz Monitor, Corsair K68 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard (MX Brown), Logitech G900 CHAOS SPECTRUM Wireless Mouse, Logitech G533 Headset

 

HTPC/Gaming Rig:

Ryzen 7 3700X CPU, ASRock B450M Pro4 mATX Motherboard, ADATA XPG GAMMIX D20 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 RAM, Mushkin PILOT 1TB SSD (boot), 2x Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" HDD (data), Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" HDD (DVR), PowerColor RX VEGA 56 8GB GPU, Fractal Design Node 804 mATX Case, Cooler Master MasterWatt 550 W 80+ Bronze Semi-modular ATX PSU, Silverstone SST-SOB02 Blu-Ray Writer, Windows 11 Pro, Logitech K400 Plus Keyboard, Corsair K63 Lapboard Combo (MX Red w/Blue LED), Logitech G603 Wireless Mouse, Kingston HyperX Cloud Stinger Headset, HAUPPAUGE WinTV-quadHD TV Tuner, Samsung 65RU9000 TV

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1 minute ago, Kid.Lazer said:

Thermal transfer isn't quite as complicated as people make it out to be. Just start and the beginning and check everything.

 

Do you have the pump mounted correctly with good thermal paste? If not, nothing else matters and you should fix that first.

 

If your ambient temperature is high, you're not going to be able to transfer as much energy into the air.

 

What is the rest or your case's airflow pattern like? Do you have exhaust fans helping pull hot air out of the case?

Regarding mounting, I'm quite sure it is ok. I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste.

 

Case I use is Lian Li O11, I have 9 fans in total in the following configuration:
3 bottom - intake (Lian Li Bora Digital)

3 side - intake (AIO + Radiator)

3 top - exhaust (Lian Li Bora Digital)

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25 minutes ago, Cool_Evlo said:

5900X is a 12 core CPU, and @4.5GHz its gonna be insanely hot, you should only worry if it gets above 95C.

Bullcrap. 
A 360 AIO on a non OCed R9 5900x is enough. I own and R9 and cool it with an H150i.

Most likely the pump isn't working right or there might be a bubble in the pump and that would prevent the coolant to reach the rad.
There should also be a bad contact between the cold plate and the CPU.

@NoodleGangsta, Picture please. Like a few Hi rez close ang and far. 

 

Spoiler

 

CPU Ryzen 5900X - Motherboard Asus ROG STRIX X570-E - RAM 16GB of G.SKILL NEON 3600 -
GPU EVGA RTX 3080 XC3 - Case Mastercase H500p mesh - PSU Seasonic Focus Gx-850 -
Corsair MP600 NVME 1 Tb, Samsung 960 PRO 500 Gb & 2 Seagate Baracuda 7200 RPM 2TB in stripe -
Display two VG27AQ 2K monitor - Cooling Corsair H150 Pro - 

Keyboard G-910 W/ Romer G tactile - Mouse G 502 Hero (wired) -
Sound Logitech X-530 and Razer Tiamat headphones

Operating System Windows 10

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Quickstrike said:

Bullcrap. 
A 360 AIO on a non OCed R9 5900x is enough. I own and R9 and cool it with an H150i.

Most likely the pump isn't working right or there might be a bubble in the pump and that would prevent the coolant to reach the rad.
There should also be a bad contact between the cold plate and the CPU.

@NoodleGangsta, Picture please. Like a few Hi rez close ang and far. 

 

It's kinda late here so I hope the pictures are fine, otherwise I will have to wait until tomorrow:

 

IMG_20210802_233139.jpg

IMG_20210802_233145.jpg

IMG_20210802_233152.jpg

IMG_20210802_233206.jpg

IMG_20210802_233215.jpg

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Turn your radiator around (fittings at the bottom) if your hoses will reach. It's possible you've air-locked your pump. Again, your thermal mass should keep you running at sane temps for a while, even with a poor airflow pattern. Your pump is either not mounted correctly, or isn't moving water. That's the only way you will spike temperatures immediately.

 

Also, 6 intake and 3 exhaust fans are going to make your radiator fans have to really fight hard to push air through and already restrictive radiator. You should change your fan configuration to be close to even on exhaust/intake. Positive air pressure is good, but you don't want that much.

 

Edit: On second thought, you might be better off just moving your radiator to exhaust on the top, and keep all other fans as intake. The positive pressure will enhance your flow through the radiator in such a configuration while also eliminating possible air pocket issues.

 

 

Primary Gaming Rig:

Ryzen 5 5600 CPU, Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI mITX motherboard, PNY XLR8 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 RAM, Mushkin PILOT 500GB SSD (boot), Corsair Force 3 480GB SSD (games), XFX RX 5700 8GB GPU, Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case, Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Gold SFX PSU, Windows 11 Pro, Dell S2719DGF 27.0" 2560x1440 155 Hz Monitor, Corsair K68 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard (MX Brown), Logitech G900 CHAOS SPECTRUM Wireless Mouse, Logitech G533 Headset

 

HTPC/Gaming Rig:

Ryzen 7 3700X CPU, ASRock B450M Pro4 mATX Motherboard, ADATA XPG GAMMIX D20 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 RAM, Mushkin PILOT 1TB SSD (boot), 2x Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" HDD (data), Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" HDD (DVR), PowerColor RX VEGA 56 8GB GPU, Fractal Design Node 804 mATX Case, Cooler Master MasterWatt 550 W 80+ Bronze Semi-modular ATX PSU, Silverstone SST-SOB02 Blu-Ray Writer, Windows 11 Pro, Logitech K400 Plus Keyboard, Corsair K63 Lapboard Combo (MX Red w/Blue LED), Logitech G603 Wireless Mouse, Kingston HyperX Cloud Stinger Headset, HAUPPAUGE WinTV-quadHD TV Tuner, Samsung 65RU9000 TV

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18 hours ago, NoodleGangsta said:

One more thing to add, I just disabled Core Performance Boost from BIOS and now, in Cinebench R23 I get temps of 60C with fans @1400 RPM and pump @1800RPM. SHould I leave it disabled and enable PBO? Or should I keep CPB on and PBO off?

 

You can keep it turned off but the 5900x will boost to only 3.7ghz. Try doing a run with it turned off and on to see if the increase in render time is worth the trade off. 

I'd turn off those settings too if I would be rendering 24/7. 

 

What are you rendering? 

i5 2400 | ASUS RTX 4090 TUF OC | Seasonic 1200W Prime Gold | WD Green 120gb | WD Blue 1tb | some ram | a random case

 

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1 minute ago, Kinda Bottlenecked said:

 

You can keep it turned off but the 5900x will boost to only 3.7ghz. Try doing a run with it turned off and on to see if the increase in render time is worth the trade off. 

I'd turn off those settings too if I would be rendering 24/7. 

 

What are you rendering? 

Yup, noticed that yesterday ^^

Regarding rendering, for the moment it might be anything in Blender. I'm rendering through a renderfarm, gathering points which I can use later for my projects 😄

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Just now, NoodleGangsta said:

Yup, noticed that yesterday ^^

Regarding rendering, for the moment it might be anything in Blender. I'm rendering through a renderfarm, gathering points which I can use later for my projects 😄

wouldn't rendering with just the 3090 using optix alone be faster? 

 

optix cpu + gpu is slower than just gpu only from what I've tested. 

i5 2400 | ASUS RTX 4090 TUF OC | Seasonic 1200W Prime Gold | WD Green 120gb | WD Blue 1tb | some ram | a random case

 

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1 hour ago, Kid.Lazer said:

Turn your radiator around (fittings at the bottom) if your hoses will reach. It's possible you've air-locked your pump. Again, your thermal mass should keep you running at sane temps for a while, even with a poor airflow pattern. Your pump is either not mounted correctly, or isn't moving water. That's the only way you will spike temperatures immediately.

 

Also, 6 intake and 3 exhaust fans are going to make your radiator fans have to really fight hard to push air through and already restrictive radiator. You should change your fan configuration to be close to even on exhaust/intake. Positive air pressure is good, but you don't want that much.

 

Edit: On second thought, you might be better off just moving your radiator to exhaust on the top, and keep all other fans as intake. The positive pressure will enhance your flow through the radiator in such a configuration while also eliminating possible air pocket issues.

 

 

One thing I find odd is that I don't hear the pump, even at max rpm(reported by NZXT CAM). Never had one so I wouldn't know exactly what to look for. But I did heard some gurgling when I first installed the CAM software. 

 

I thought too of going AIO top, only that I have a 3090 which yesterday was outputing a lot of heat from the top exhaust so not sure it's gonna help

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2 minutes ago, Kinda Bottlenecked said:

wouldn't rendering with just the 3090 using optix alone be faster? 

 

optix cpu + gpu is slower than just gpu only from what I've tested. 

Yup, you are right, only that I can run 2 instances of the renderfarm software, one rendering with the CPU and one with the GPU. And that would be the target for the moment, just gathering points (I'm talking of Sheepit, if you've heard)

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1 minute ago, NoodleGangsta said:

Yup, you are right, only that I can run 2 instances of the renderfarm software, one rendering with the CPU and one with the GPU. And that would be the target for the moment, just gathering points (I'm talking of Sheepit, if you've heard)

 

Ah gotcha. Yea I'll turn the auto OC off for that. 90*C long term would kill the cpu faster.

i5 2400 | ASUS RTX 4090 TUF OC | Seasonic 1200W Prime Gold | WD Green 120gb | WD Blue 1tb | some ram | a random case

 

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51 minutes ago, NoodleGangsta said:

One thing I find odd is that I don't hear the pump, even at max rpm(reported by NZXT CAM). Never had one so I wouldn't know exactly what to look for. But I did heard some gurgling when I first installed the CAM software. 

 

I thought too of going AIO top, only that I have a 3090 which yesterday was outputing a lot of heat from the top exhaust so not sure it's gonna help

A gurggling sound is air entering the pump, which will most certainly shorten it's life if done often. That's why I suggested at the very least flipping your radiator. It'll trap the air in the end tank, rather than potentially cycling it around.

 

Heat from internal components will slightly decrease cooling capability, but the benefit from the positive airflow pattern would probably cancel each other out at the very least, if not improve the overall cooling.

Primary Gaming Rig:

Ryzen 5 5600 CPU, Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI mITX motherboard, PNY XLR8 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 RAM, Mushkin PILOT 500GB SSD (boot), Corsair Force 3 480GB SSD (games), XFX RX 5700 8GB GPU, Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case, Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Gold SFX PSU, Windows 11 Pro, Dell S2719DGF 27.0" 2560x1440 155 Hz Monitor, Corsair K68 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard (MX Brown), Logitech G900 CHAOS SPECTRUM Wireless Mouse, Logitech G533 Headset

 

HTPC/Gaming Rig:

Ryzen 7 3700X CPU, ASRock B450M Pro4 mATX Motherboard, ADATA XPG GAMMIX D20 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 RAM, Mushkin PILOT 1TB SSD (boot), 2x Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" HDD (data), Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" HDD (DVR), PowerColor RX VEGA 56 8GB GPU, Fractal Design Node 804 mATX Case, Cooler Master MasterWatt 550 W 80+ Bronze Semi-modular ATX PSU, Silverstone SST-SOB02 Blu-Ray Writer, Windows 11 Pro, Logitech K400 Plus Keyboard, Corsair K63 Lapboard Combo (MX Red w/Blue LED), Logitech G603 Wireless Mouse, Kingston HyperX Cloud Stinger Headset, HAUPPAUGE WinTV-quadHD TV Tuner, Samsung 65RU9000 TV

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I had a x73 on my 5950x, it ran really hot, i ended up replacing it with a noctua dh15 which improved temps by like 5c

swapping to a better case lowered temps another 5-10c

System Specs: AMD 5950x PBO-AutoNoctua DH-15 Black | Gigabyte x570 MasterEVGA 3080FTW3 Ultra | (2x16gb) G.Skill Royal 3600mhz CL18 | Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black) Samsung 980 Pro 2TB & Firecuda 520 1TB & Crucial MX500 2tb850W Corsair RMX | 2 Noctua A14 CPU, 6 Noctua A12x25 Intake, 3x Noctua F12 Top Exhaust, 1x Noctua A12x25 Back Exhaust

Monitors: (Main) LG Ultragear 34" 2k Ultrawide 144hz IPS '34GP83A-B' (Side) Acer Predator 27" 2k 144hz TN 'Abmiprz'

Peripherals: Corsair K100 OPX | Logitech G502 Lightspeed | Corsair Virtuoso SE | Audioengine A2+

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A good air cooler is enough to get the full performance of a 5900x. Not sure why AIO is a must just because it’s got 12 cores.

AMD R9 9900X | Thermalright FW Pro Black, 3x TL-B12E | Asus Strix X670E -F | 64GB G.Skill 6000C26
Zotac 4070 Ti Trinity OC | WD SN850, SN850X, 2x SN770 | Seasonic Vertex GX-1000 | ProArt PA602
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1 hour ago, freeagent said:

A good air cooler is enough to get the full performance of a 5900x. Not sure why AIO is a must just because it’s got 12 cores.

For short bursts, the thermal mass of a 360 AIO will saturate more slowly so peak cooling for longer before reaching equilibrium.

Spoiler

 

CPU Ryzen 5900X - Motherboard Asus ROG STRIX X570-E - RAM 16GB of G.SKILL NEON 3600 -
GPU EVGA RTX 3080 XC3 - Case Mastercase H500p mesh - PSU Seasonic Focus Gx-850 -
Corsair MP600 NVME 1 Tb, Samsung 960 PRO 500 Gb & 2 Seagate Baracuda 7200 RPM 2TB in stripe -
Display two VG27AQ 2K monitor - Cooling Corsair H150 Pro - 

Keyboard G-910 W/ Romer G tactile - Mouse G 502 Hero (wired) -
Sound Logitech X-530 and Razer Tiamat headphones

Operating System Windows 10

 

 

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21 hours ago, NoodleGangsta said:

It's kinda late here so I hope the pictures are fine, otherwise I will have to wait until tomorrow:

 

IMG_20210802_233139.jpg

 

 

 

 

Flipping the rad around might be a good idea if you have bubble in the top of the loop.
Go in BIOS, you should have a pump rpm reading if you plugged the pump header in the right socket. If the RPM read 0 then your pump is dead.

Also... I think those fans are pulling, make sure with a puff of smoke or something. Put them in push mode.

 

Finally, unscrew the cold plate, make sure you have thermal paste spread evenly and screw the plate back up but leave some play in the screws. When the plate is mostly tightened, finish the nobs with a screwdriver in a star fashion one half turn at a time so you get even pressure.

If all this fails, throw the AIO in the rubbish because the pump

 

Spoiler

 

CPU Ryzen 5900X - Motherboard Asus ROG STRIX X570-E - RAM 16GB of G.SKILL NEON 3600 -
GPU EVGA RTX 3080 XC3 - Case Mastercase H500p mesh - PSU Seasonic Focus Gx-850 -
Corsair MP600 NVME 1 Tb, Samsung 960 PRO 500 Gb & 2 Seagate Baracuda 7200 RPM 2TB in stripe -
Display two VG27AQ 2K monitor - Cooling Corsair H150 Pro - 

Keyboard G-910 W/ Romer G tactile - Mouse G 502 Hero (wired) -
Sound Logitech X-530 and Razer Tiamat headphones

Operating System Windows 10

 

 

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20 minutes ago, Quickstrike said:

Flipping the rad around might be a good idea if you have bubble in the top of the loop.
Go in BIOS, you should have a pump rpm reading if you plugged the pump header in the right socket. If the RPM read 0 then your pump is dead.

Also... I think those fans are pulling, make sure with a puff of smoke or something. Put them in push mode.

 

Finally, unscrew the cold plate, make sure you have thermal paste spread evenly and screw the plate back up but leave some play in the screws. When the plate is mostly tightened, finish the nobs with a screwdriver in a star fashion one half turn at a time so you get even pressure.

If all this fails, throw the AIO in the rubbish because the pump

 

So I just re-mounted the pump. Also switched the radiator with the fans, this way the fans are closer to the fresh air, rather then pulling them through radiator, filter and case panel. Did a test with stock settings, temps dropped by around 2C. So i tried something in Ryzen Master.

 

I set manually a frequency of 4500Mhz all cores @1.2V maximum (stock was 1.45). Temps are now 74C. I suppose this is a good result. I suppose my lack of experience was the fault of all of this. So I have a question: should I try to set it up manually, see how far it goes in terms of frequency or is fiddling with PBO better ?

 

Thank you all for the input! Sorry for being dumb 😄

 

image.thumb.png.a3a62cd5d80a7703fb38b3c8b0e84887.png

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2 minutes ago, NoodleGangsta said:

So I just re-mounted the pump. Also switched the radiator with the fans, this way the fans are closer to the fresh air, rather then pulling them through radiator, filter and case panel. Did a test with stock settings, temps dropped by around 2C. So i tried something in Ryzen Master.

 

I set manually a frequency of 4500Mhz all cores @1.2V maximum (stock was 1.45). Temps are now 74C. I suppose this is a good result. I suppose my lack of experience was the fault of all of this. So I have a question: should I try to set it up manually, see how far it goes in terms of frequency or is filling with PBO better ?

 

Thank you all for the input! Sorry for being dumb 😄

Not knowing doesn't make you dumb. You asked for help and that was the right thing to do.
is 74 on load or idle? 

Spoiler

 

CPU Ryzen 5900X - Motherboard Asus ROG STRIX X570-E - RAM 16GB of G.SKILL NEON 3600 -
GPU EVGA RTX 3080 XC3 - Case Mastercase H500p mesh - PSU Seasonic Focus Gx-850 -
Corsair MP600 NVME 1 Tb, Samsung 960 PRO 500 Gb & 2 Seagate Baracuda 7200 RPM 2TB in stripe -
Display two VG27AQ 2K monitor - Cooling Corsair H150 Pro - 

Keyboard G-910 W/ Romer G tactile - Mouse G 502 Hero (wired) -
Sound Logitech X-530 and Razer Tiamat headphones

Operating System Windows 10

 

 

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Having all of these same issues myself.

 

Rebuilt the same computer with all brand new parts, and the second round is the same but I'm also now having USB disconnection issues as well. 


At this point I'm pulling my hair out and am ready to just go back to intel because I'm at a loss.

 

Lian Li 0-11 Dynamic
Ryzen 5900x
Asus Dark Hero x570
Asus Strix RTX 3080
Corsair Dominator Platinum 3200mhz (4x8)
Corsair h150i elite capellix triple fan
Corsair RMx1000 PSU
 

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