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m.2 Windows 10 Transfer. My OEM is tied to the motherboard of the B450F I'm assuming and the Motherboard is dead now. If I just do a straight clone of the m.2 nvme on my laptop to a external hdd and transfer it back over to the nvme will it bipass the windows 10 installation code issue? With AOMEI I'm referring to.

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, JoshuaRossChristie said:

m.2 Windows 10 Transfer. My OEM is tied to the motherboard of the B450F I'm assuming and the Motherboard is dead now. If I just do a straight clone of the m.2 nvme on my laptop to a external hdd and transfer it back over to the nvme will it bipass the windows 10 installation code issue? With AOMEI I'm referring to.

 

 

 

If not what do I do to do a clone and activate this version of windows 10 again?

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1 minute ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

Why do you think your board is dead?

Are there any error codes or debug lights that come on?

like the bios is totally capooched. both the primary and the secondary. on both the motherboards i have. soo the answer to that is no there isn't debug lights

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Windows activation lets you swap hardware without deactivating as long as it's reasonable i.e. you're only changing a component or 2 in a given time. If it deactivated cloning to another drive and back obviously wouldn't change anything to it. 

F@H
Desktop: i9-13900K, ASUS Z790-E, 64GB DDR5-6000 CL36, RTX3080, 2TB MP600 Pro XT, 2TB SX8200Pro, 2x16TB Ironwolf RAID0, Corsair HX1200, Antec Vortex 360 AIO, Thermaltake Versa H25 TG, Samsung 4K curved 49" TV, 23" secondary, Mountain Everest Max

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GPD Win 2

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Just now, JoshuaRossChristie said:

like the bios is totally capooched. both the primary and the secondary. on both the motherboards i have. soo the answer to that is no there isn't debug lights

Buy a bios programmer like ch341a w clip and try to flash the bios with the programmer, if the clip is too inconsistent or something just desolder it and find an adapter board that has pads that fits your bios chip and flash it that way

 

The bios chip is usually near the cmos battery

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Just now, JoshuaRossChristie said:

like the bios is totally capooched. both the primary and the secondary. on both the motherboards i have. soo the answer to that is no there isn't debug lights

I'm just trying to figure this out before hand. My friend said I should be able to just put the nvme into the new motherboard and it will be fine. but the oem serial code i do believe was tied to the old motherboard soo I'm assuming i have to bipass it somehow

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4 minutes ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

Buy a bios programmer like ch341a w clip and try to flash the bios with the programmer, if the clip is too inconsistent or something just desolder it and find an adapter board that has pads that fits your bios chip and flash it that way

 

The bios chip is usually near the cmos battery

I can use that tool definately to repair that board. I bought a X570 because I was planning on upgrading to a board that supported the 4th gen nvme m.2 for video editing and gaming. at least i know now not to throw out the old board. I am planning on upgrading the cpu before the lga amd chipsets come out. Is there a way to bipass the error code for the windows install or not?

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If you have a Microsoft account its also tied to that, otherwise if you dont have the actual code i think youre screwed.

 

But *if* you have the license code you can call Microsoft and ask them to activate windows for you.

 

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

If you have a Microsoft account its also tied to that, otherwise if you dont have the actual code i think youre screwed.

 

But *if* you have the license code you can call Microsoft and ask them to activate windows for you.

 

perfect that answers my question thanks.

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As mentioned if you just swap the mobo it will simply work, no reactivation needed. Even more likely if you are logged in with your MS account.

 

If your system somehow didn't qualify for the original key anymore then you'd have to buy a new key, anything else would be piracy so helping you with that on here would not be accepted.

 

5 minutes ago, Mark Kaine said:

But *if* you have the license code you can call Microsoft and ask them to activate windows for you.

That's only if you have a retail key, not OEM. 

F@H
Desktop: i9-13900K, ASUS Z790-E, 64GB DDR5-6000 CL36, RTX3080, 2TB MP600 Pro XT, 2TB SX8200Pro, 2x16TB Ironwolf RAID0, Corsair HX1200, Antec Vortex 360 AIO, Thermaltake Versa H25 TG, Samsung 4K curved 49" TV, 23" secondary, Mountain Everest Max

Mobile SFF rig: i9-9900K, Noctua NH-L9i, Asrock Z390 Phantom ITX-AC, 32GB, GTX1070, 2x1TB SX8200Pro RAID0, 2x5TB 2.5" HDD RAID0, Athena 500W Flex (Noctua fan), Custom 4.7l 3D printed case

 

Asus Zenbook UM325UA, Ryzen 7 5700u, 16GB, 1TB, OLED

 

GPD Win 2

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1 minute ago, Kilrah said:

That's only if you have a retail key, not OEM. 

well, i did that myself (for a customer) was a hp or something  with a sticker with the key on the side, so i think it was an OEM key (win 7 key, but win 10 install) and idr anymore what was actually wrong but the error message was clear, code not valid. Took 5 minutes max on the phone all they wanted to know was the key on the sticker.

So yeah, officially it wont work, but doesnt look like Microsoft actually cares? 

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

 

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