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So I am trying to narrate a video tutorial and I am hearing static on my line input on my motherboard. I am using the mic on my headset, but this issue only happens on my desktop.

 

Here is a quick soundbite: test.wav

 

Any ideas? I can only think of a ground loop or a grounding issue, but have checked my motherboard grounding to the case and PSU using my Ohm meter and checking for continuity.

 

Is my on board audio just junk? If so are there any decent external rerecording solutions?

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It could be interference around the audio input port, or just interference with the wire connecting to the mic. Are you using the front panel audio jack of your case? Try the back. 

 

Can you hook your headset up to your laptop and record there instead?  

Like watching Anime? Consider joining the unofficial LTT Anime Club Heaven Society~ ^.^

 

 

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It could be interference around the audio input port, or just interference with the wire connecting to the mic. Are you using the front panel audio jack of your case? Try the back. 

 

Can you hook your headset up to your laptop and record there instead?  

My headset is already connected to the back of my motherboard. I literally cannot use the front panel audio as it amplifies the signal too much.

 

I could hook it up to my laptop, but that would be somewhat of a hassle as all my video and audio workflow gets done on my desktop.

 

Also using the latest drivers from Realtek if it matters. Overall I think my motherboard just has a crappy audio implementation as I can also hear the noise floor with various headphones.

▶ Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning. - Einstein◀

Please remember to mark a thread as solved if your issue has been fixed, it helps other who may stumble across the thread at a later point in time.

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My headset is already connected to the back of my motherboard. I literally cannot use the front panel audio as it amplifies the signal too much.

 

I could hook it up to my laptop, but that would be somewhat of a hassle as all my video and audio workflow gets done on my desktop.

 

Also using the latest drivers from Realtek if it matters. Overall I think my motherboard just has a crappy audio implementation as I can also hear the noise floor with various headphones.

Huh seems to be a problem with your computer itself then if you get the same results on multiple headphones. I don't know what to tell ya besides options that require spending money.

Like watching Anime? Consider joining the unofficial LTT Anime Club Heaven Society~ ^.^

 

 

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Huh seems to be a problem with your computer itself then if you get the same results on multiple headphones. I don't know what to tell ya besides options that require spending money.

Spending money isn't an issue. I asked in the OP if anyone knows of a decent external audio interface. Preferably USB 2/3.

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Spending money isn't an issue. I asked in the OP if anyone knows of a decent external audio interface. Preferably USB 2/3.

I don't know of any USB based ones, all I can do is recommend getting a soundcard or a DAC 

Like watching Anime? Consider joining the unofficial LTT Anime Club Heaven Society~ ^.^

 

 

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I don't know of any USB based ones, all I can do is recommend getting a soundcard or a DAC 

I have been thinking of picking up an ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 to add to my computer as it is $89. If you have any recommendations please let me know.

▶ Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning. - Einstein◀

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I heard no static, but I did hear what sounded like a fan in the background.

Will work for electronic components and parts


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I heard no static, but I did hear what sounded like a fan in the background.

Wasn't a fan. I turned my fans off when recording because of the possible interference (both audible and electrical). You should be able to hear it.

Here is a logarithmic plot of where I hear the static:

post-419-0-47417600-1396457412_thumb.png

▶ Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning. - Einstein◀

Please remember to mark a thread as solved if your issue has been fixed, it helps other who may stumble across the thread at a later point in time.

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getting an external dac/amp would remove any sort of interference you are getting with exception to mobile signals (which is a cable problem)

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getting an external dac/amp would remove any sort of interference you are getting with exception to mobile signals (which is a cable problem)

Pro tip: microphones use ADC's and preamps.

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Pro tip: microphones use ADC's and preamps.

I know you suggested the Syba DAC/ADC combo unit earlier. Do you use it personally and if so is it driverless? Linux or Windows 8 support?

▶ Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning. - Einstein◀

Please remember to mark a thread as solved if your issue has been fixed, it helps other who may stumble across the thread at a later point in time.

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I know you suggested the Syba DAC/ADC combo unit earlier. Do you use it personally and if so is it driverless? Linux or Windows 8 support?

 

I do use it personally, and it is driverless. I dunno about Linux or Windows 8 compatibility specifics, but I figure driverless = compatible, right?

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http://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-Tripath-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Digital/dp/B00H6XDE4S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396528054&sr=1-1&keywords=TOPPING+VX1

 

If you interested in using passive speakers like me, this may be a good alternative. I ordered one and I should be getting it tomorrow, I will leave an update after receiving and testing it.

 

The feature I like about it is that you can switch between the speaker and headphone amp just with the power button. It's nice (for me atleast) to not have to unplug the headphones when i want to use my speakers. It also has a burrbrown 24/96khz driverless usb dac and a rca input on the back. It's pretty cheap too at only $100 and it looks really nice with aluminum housing. Hopefully it's good.

 

Here are the specs

 

 

* Inputs: USB, RCA Line in L/R
* Outputs: Headphone Jack, Speakers L/R, 3 Output Models Swtich
* Amplifier: Class-T Tripath TA2024B BTL Configuration
* Output Power: 2 x 25W @ 4ohm, 2 x 14W @ 8ohm
* Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR): 98dB
* Dynamic Range: 98dB
* IHF-IM Distortion: 0.1% @ 1W, 4ohm
* THD Distortion:0.03% @ 9W 4ohm, 0.1% @ 11W 4ohm, 0.1% @ 6W 8ohm, 10% @ 15W 4ohm, 10% @ 10W 8ohm
* Power Efficiency: 81% @ 15W, 4ohm, 90% @ 10W, 8ohm
* Input Sensitivity: 200mV
* DAC: USB Controller by Burr-Brown PCM2704:(plug and play, Windows2000 or Higher)
* USB decoder distortion: 0.008% @ 1kHz
* Opamp: Burr-Brown OP-2134
* Headphone Output: 60mW @ 16 ohms, 1% THD + N; 120mW @ 32 ohms, 1% THD + N
* Headphone Amp Distortion: 0.01% THD + N @ 100mW/32 ohms
* Face plate: 8mm thick CNC machined aluminum
* Connectors: Gold Plated RCA
* Size:11.3 x 4.4 x 17.1cm(width x high x deep) excluding protrusions
* Voltage: 100V-240V universal with power supply included

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I do use it personally, and it is driverless. I dunno about Linux or Windows 8 compatibility specifics, but I figure driverless = compatible, right?

So after looking around, I think I might go with the Creative X-Fi HD: http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Sound-Blaster-System-SB1240/dp/B004275EO4

Mainly because it includes a grounding terminal to hook up to either earth ground or my pc case. It does cost double compared to the Syba solution, but this lets me know if there is a ground loop somewhere in my setup, and if their is I can minimize the effect by having a common ground across the ADC/DAC and my computer.

 

http://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-Tripath-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Digital/dp/B00H6XDE4S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396528054&sr=1-1&keywords=TOPPING+VX1

 

If you interested in using passive speakers like me, this may be a good alternative. I ordered one and I should be getting it tomorrow, I will leave an update after receiving and testing it.

 

The feature I like about it is that you can switch between the speaker and headphone amp just with the power button. It's nice (for me atleast) to not have to unplug the headphones when i want to use my speakers. It also has a burrbrown 24/96khz driverless usb dac and a rca input on the back. It's pretty cheap too at only $100 and it looks really nice with aluminum housing. Hopefully it's good.

 

Here are the specs

 

 

* Inputs: USB, RCA Line in L/R

* Outputs: Headphone Jack, Speakers L/R, 3 Output Models Swtich

* Amplifier: Class-T Tripath TA2024B BTL Configuration

* Output Power: 2 x 25W @ 4ohm, 2 x 14W @ 8ohm

* Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR): 98dB

* Dynamic Range: 98dB

* IHF-IM Distortion: 0.1% @ 1W, 4ohm

* THD Distortion:0.03% @ 9W 4ohm, 0.1% @ 11W 4ohm, 0.1% @ 6W 8ohm, 10% @ 15W 4ohm, 10% @ 10W 8ohm

* Power Efficiency: 81% @ 15W, 4ohm, 90% @ 10W, 8ohm

* Input Sensitivity: 200mV

* DAC: USB Controller by Burr-Brown PCM2704:(plug and play, Windows2000 or Higher)

* USB decoder distortion: 0.008% @ 1kHz

* Opamp: Burr-Brown OP-2134

* Headphone Output: 60mW @ 16 ohms, 1% THD + N; 120mW @ 32 ohms, 1% THD + N

* Headphone Amp Distortion: 0.01% THD + N @ 100mW/32 ohms

* Face plate: 8mm thick CNC machined aluminum

* Connectors: Gold Plated RCA

* Size:11.3 x 4.4 x 17.1cm(width x high x deep) excluding protrusions

* Voltage: 100V-240V universal with power supply included

I don't need a DAC. I need an ADC to input my microphone signal.

▶ Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning. - Einstein◀

Please remember to mark a thread as solved if your issue has been fixed, it helps other who may stumble across the thread at a later point in time.

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So after looking around, I think I might go with the Creative X-Fi HD: http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Sound-Blaster-System-SB1240/dp/B004275EO4

Mainly because it includes a grounding terminal to hook up to either earth ground or my pc case. It does cost double compared to the Syba solution, but this lets me know if there is a ground loop somewhere in my setup, and if their is I can minimize the effect by having a common ground across the ADC/DAC and my computer.

 

But common grounds are what cause ground loops.  :huh:

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That sound comes from the source. I believe it to be a grounding issue. I get the same thing when I connect my Nintendo to my line-in. It's not your PC.

 

EDIT: A ferrite core was suggested by my dad but I never tried it.

You guys are crazy. You know you guys are self-destructive. There's a funny farm somewhere and it's got your names written all over it. But I'm gettin' outta here.

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But common grounds are what cause ground loops.  :huh:

Oops, you are right. Because then current would be traveling from the DAC/ADC to my pc case because of a potential difference. So then just leave the ground unattached or I could wire in a resistor.

 

That sound comes from the source. I believe it to be a grounding issue. I get the same thing when I connect my Nintendo to my line-in. It's not your PC.

This is a microphone, it isn't powered so there shouldn't be any leakage from the 'source'. Also in th OP I stated this does not happen on my other computer, so it has to be the PC.

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Please remember to mark a thread as solved if your issue has been fixed, it helps other who may stumble across the thread at a later point in time.

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Sorry I didn't read all of it.

Just running power and signal cables along side each other can cause this.

I doubt it's your on board audio.

You guys are crazy. You know you guys are self-destructive. There's a funny farm somewhere and it's got your names written all over it. But I'm gettin' outta here.

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Sorry I didn't read all of it.

Just running power and signal cables along side each other can cause this.

I doubt it's your on board audio.

They aren't near each other. The only other issue that I can think of at the moment is my PSU causing hum or line interference. I am at school now, but when I get home I can try to measure if there is a potential difference across the ground connector of my microphone input and that of my pc case, motherboard, and audio input.

 

If there is I could wire in an resistor in parallel on a cable I can fabricate.

 

This would save me a lot of money.

▶ Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning. - Einstein◀

Please remember to mark a thread as solved if your issue has been fixed, it helps other who may stumble across the thread at a later point in time.

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So after looking around, I think I might go with the Creative X-Fi HD: http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Sound-Blaster-System-SB1240/dp/B004275EO4

 

 

I have one of these I got on sale for use with headphones at work & it's actually pretty decent. Might not be the cheapest solution for what you want but it will definitely work. Never had even a hint of noise on the outputs or inputs, even with my fairly sensitive IEMs.

 

Also that grounding lug on the back is only for when you're recording from a turntable or something. For use with this kind of cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CRA-202DJ-Stereo-Interconnect-Ground/dp/B0032OUJI4?tag=atmlinr-20

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