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Hello. So I have almost the exact problem as: 

 

The big problem is unlike that guy removing cmos even for 10 minutes doesn't help.

Neither does testing all the 3 ram in all the various places.

Screen, power cord and graphics card has also been excluded.

 

This computer (b450-f, ryzen 3400g and a fine amount of ram was a bit above my price range but I finally wanted a computer that wasn't terrible then I go do this stupid shit.

Any advise greatly appreciated.

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have you tried using the clear CMOS pins in your motherboard? They should be 2 pins at the bottom of the motherboard that say CLRTC under them, though some of the ASUS boards have 3 pins and a jumper, this should not be your case. Here is what your boards manual says, even when removing the battery, you need to short the CLRTC .

image.png

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Yes, and in fact I removed the graphics card in order to remove the cmos which I kept out for an overkill amount of time :/

Thanks for the thought though, that usually should be it. I spent two days with this, probably over 20 hours trying different combinations.

 

I don't quite understand the RTC thing, but as far as I've learned detaching CMOS battery should have identical effect, it's just harder?

Because if there's any difference I'll go back and try that again.

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26 minutes ago, Ulf said:

Yes, and in fact I removed the graphics card in order to remove the cmos which I kept out for an overkill amount of time :/

Thanks for the thought though, that usually should be it. I spent two days with this, probably over 20 hours trying different combinations.

 

I don't quite understand the RTC thing, but as far as I've learned detaching CMOS battery should have identical effect, it's just harder?

Because if there's any difference I'll go back and try that again.

It should be practically the same thing, RTC is the real time clock, as mentioned in the page of the user guide I uploaded with my advice, it keeps track of time and your motherboard settings, shorting the CLRTC sends the memory modules the commend to lose all data and reset to the defaults, the reason why you need to get the battery out for at least 10 minutes is because that memory is basically ram, volatile memory that loses all data it it is not given power, but it's the same if it receives a CLEAR command, just safer and easier to tinker with. Oh, and just realized, why is this in "CPUs, Motherboards and Memory" and not "Troubleshooting"?

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18 minutes ago, somer4ndo said:

 Oh, and just realized, why is this in "CPUs, Motherboards and Memory" and not "Troubleshooting"?

It might very well be wrong, I just posted where the other guy posted his exact problem. Thanks for sticking with me anyway.

 

18 minutes ago, somer4ndo said:

shorting the CLRTC sends the memory modules the commend to lose all data and reset to the defaults, the reason why you need to get the battery out for at least 10 minutes

Then, sadly, it can't be that either :C

 

18 minutes ago, somer4ndo said:

If that didn't work, does the led at the top of the leftmost ram slot shine yellow?

I was not aware of this, and will immediately check. I've got 4x4x16gig ram, with the two 4s doing dual. A bit unusual but motherboard says its okay so long as its set up that way. I will look for any yellow light now, thanks again for the help,

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, somer4ndo said:

If that didn't work, does the led at the top of the leftmost ram slot shine yellow?

It shines yellow for 2 seconds, then red for another two then blank/clear after that. Shut it down after half a minute or so. No mention of yellow or red light in the manual, what does this mean?

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Plug the little speaker into the FP header for Error beeps.

 

If you get no beeps, and still the same issue occurs, RMA the board. It has a 3 years warranty. 

 

speaker looks like this. 3 bucks on fleabay if you don't has one. Case speaker will work as well if your case came with one.

 

 

motherboard speaker..png

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18 minutes ago, ShrimpBrime said:

Plug the little speaker into the FP header for Error beeps.

 

If you get no beeps, and still the same issue occurs, RMA the board. It has a 3 years warranty. 

 

speaker looks like this. 3 bucks on fleabay if you don't has one. Case speaker will work as well if your case came with one.

 

 

motherboard speaker..png

Thank you for the advise but I bought the computer built by Webhallen in Sweden and they fooled me of the warranty. (They said that since that I used an unoriginal screw to screw the glass panel back on, warranty was void, and that I  would have to pay 70 euro to have it looked at and not fixed if I insisted to having it shipped half the country away for repairs. When I pointed out the screws only difference was color not size he called in backup and he and his college trash talked the machine together for 5 minutes, it bad acting and sent me home. This was a little over 6 months into a 3 year warranty) Granted, I tried to fool them by not mentioning overclock, but you honest customers beware. I also just now sent a ticket to Asus with the overclockingtruth, so no warranty there.

 

Making internet searches it seems the yellow light means memory issues so it should work with just some new memory. Gives me a chance to go from Corsair Vengence LTX 2666 to something 3000+ while we're at it. If it is the motherboard, the price difference isn't extreme but won't have that nice bonus.

 

That is unless there is a cure for this, still. I am a man of hope.

(I was unaware of the existence of the tool you suggested and will get one for the future)

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3 hours ago, Ulf said:

It shines yellow for 2 seconds, then red for another two then blank/clear after that. Shut it down after half a minute or so. No mention of yellow or red light in the manual, what does this mean?

Sorry, I went away for a little bit and just came back, according to the manual, the led should stay on until the problem is solved, so I don't think that the computer is your problem, are you plugged into your PC through your motherboard instead of the GPU? you can find the manual here

image.png.1c96c4e07478f9affd3b2a75acd59f75.png

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2 hours ago, Ulf said:

Thank you for the advise but I bought the computer built by Webhallen in Sweden and they fooled me of the warranty. (They said that since that I used an unoriginal screw to screw the glass panel back on, warranty was void, and that I  would have to pay 70 euro to have it looked at and not fixed if I insisted to having it shipped half the country away for repairs. When I pointed out the screws only difference was color not size he called in backup and he and his college trash talked the machine together for 5 minutes, it bad acting and sent me home. This was a little over 6 months into a 3 year warranty) Granted, I tried to fool them by not mentioning overclock, but you honest customers beware. I also just now sent a ticket to Asus with the overclockingtruth, so no warranty there.

 

Making internet searches it seems the yellow light means memory issues so it should work with just some new memory. Gives me a chance to go from Corsair Vengence LTX 2666 to something 3000+ while we're at it. If it is the motherboard, the price difference isn't extreme but won't have that nice bonus.

 

That is unless there is a cure for this, still. I am a man of hope.

(I was unaware of the existence of the tool you suggested and will get one for the future)

Yea, unless the yellow light stays turned on, that's not your problem, memory is fine, try taking the memory out of the board and you'll almost certainly see what it looks like to have a memory error.

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