Hard Tubing build while on Quarantine

[Dmitry Markin]

Dear and respected forum members, hello form Gemany!

 

With the country being locked down on quarantine, it is home office for me without end. 

In this situation I decided to turn to PC building . I have been watching Linus tech tips for years and reading the forum but this is my first time writing here.

This would look like a super noob post that you already saw a million times here, but this is something where i really need somebody to "hold my hand", and in similar posts from 2019 i get a prompt that the thread is old and I should better start a new one.

 

There is a precondition here that I only can be getting deliveries (mainly amazon.de to Berlin). And the amount of stuff in stock is really running out.

The PC shop I wanted to go to in person to get a consultation is now closed till further notice ( here is a link to it Caseking Berlin)

 

I did build an air-cooled PC before but never dealt with water cooling. And right now I'm really thorn between just going with hard line tubing or just sticking AIO blocks.

So apart from the build advice I would really like to understand what are my chances without having the possibility to ask real specialist in person.

 

My ultimate goal would be to build a white water cooling loop that would look something like this, with all white rgb illumination and liquid and in the end wall mount it:

Image taken from here (different case model than in my order list below but this one is not sold on amazon.de)

 

To kick things off I ordered the hardware that was 1 or 2 peaces left in stock and arriving next week are, hope I didn't fuck up to badly  :

• Thermaltake Core P5 Hartglas V2 Black Edition
• G.Skill Trident Z RGB 64GB DDR4 3600MHz
• ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Formula
• Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1 TB M.2
• Ryzen 9 3950x

The rest of the components i decided to hold off on till I figure out how to build the loop:

 

Video Card

 

I have my eyes on 

• EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 HC.- 1800 EUR  (update: found a cheaper version here 1650 EUR)
• EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Super FTW3 - 950 EUR

This looks like the only available on amazon.de video card that would match in style. Or am I missing out on the option of buying an air-cooled solution + an after market cooling block?

• ASUS ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080Ti - 1400 EUR

• Thermaltake CL-W248-CU00SW-A Pacific V-RTX 2080 Plus - 200 EUR

 

Also the above named solutions are copper and the loop on the mother board (Crosshair VIII Formula) i could not figure out if it is copper or aluminum

 

Power Supply

 

Here i'm a bit lost in the trends, are water cooled power supplies still a joke? I have a left over from the current build power supply:

Thermaltake tr2 rx 1200w 80 Bronze. Should I reuse it?

 

Cooling loop

 

Just by looking around the Thermaltake website i somehow found a full kit that should contain everything I would need?

• Thermaltake Pacific C360 DDC Soft Tube Water Cooling Kit

• Thermaltake Pacific W5 CPU Water Block -> also copper as the video card and theoretically the mother board?

• Mayhems Pastel UV White -> wanted a white colored loop, picked it up from this thread

• A tonn of paper towels

 

I would be really grateful for any feed back.And please don't judge me to harshly English is not my native language

 

[qxa]

Water cooled power supplies are a joke yes, don't go for one. 

Your power supply is... fine ; but would definitely not be my pick and I'd go for something higher end for a 3950x / 2080ti build

 

Generally I'm not the biggest fan of thermaltake powersupplies but as you seem to like their stuff - consider going for something like a Toughpower Grand Platinum. 

[BetaEffect]

7 hours ago, Dmitry Markin said:

Also the above named solutions are copper and the loop on the mother board (Crosshair VIII Formula) i could not figure out if it is copper or aluminum

It is copper. see Asus webpage

 

7 hours ago, Dmitry Markin said:

Here i'm a bit lost in the trends, are water cooled power supplies still a joke?

yes, totally unnecessary.

 

7 hours ago, Dmitry Markin said:

So apart from the build advice I would really like to understand what are my chances without having the possibility to ask real specialist in person.

You can still phone them or ask via mail. (confirmed information from 2 caseking employee i have in ts atm)

 

7 hours ago, Dmitry Markin said:

Mayhems Pastel UV White -> wanted a white colored loop, picked it up from this thread

dont go for colored fluid for a daily driver. its just for show. think about painting your tubes or use colored tubes in the first place.

i use normal fluid in my loop with green colored tubes (spraypainted)

 

7 hours ago, Dmitry Markin said:

I did build an air-cooled PC before but never dealt with water cooling. And right now I'm really thorn between just going with hard line tubing or just sticking AIO blocks.

if you never build a watercooled pc maybe try softtubing first. 

my first watercooling loop was hardtubes but it was a real challenge and take alot of time.

 

if you have any furhter questions you can also write me a PM. im from the same area as you, experience in hardline watercooling and direct contacts to caseking

 

 

maybe consider other manufactures aside from thermaltake for watercooling components.

[Dmitry Markin]

6 hours ago, qxa said:

Water cooled power supplies are a joke yes, don't go for one. 

Your power supply is... fine ; but would definitely not be my pick and I'd go for something higher end for a 3950x / 2080ti build

 

Generally I'm not the biggest fan of thermaltake powersupplies but as you seem to like their stuff - consider going for something like a Toughpower Grand Platinum. 

Thanks for the reply will consider that, i have no particular brand affection, train of thought was that since i have something why not reuse it if possible

[Dmitry Markin]

1 hour ago, BetaEffect said:

It is copper. see Asus webpage

 

yes, totally unnecessary.

 

You can still phone them or ask via mail. (confirmed information from 2 caseking employee i have in ts atm)

 

dont go for colored fluid for a daily driver. its just for show. think about painting your tubes or use colored tubes in the first place.

i use normal fluid in my loop with green colored tubes (spraypainted)

 

if you never build a watercooled pc maybe try softtubing first. 

my first watercooling loop was hardtubes but it was a real challenge and take alot of time.

 

if you have any furhter questions you can also write me a PM. im from the same area as you, experience in hardline watercooling and direct contacts to caseking

 

 

maybe consider other manufactures aside from thermaltake for watercooling components.

Oh thank you good sir  I will gladly use this opportunity and will pm you shortly.

[qxa]

7 hours ago, Dmitry Markin said:

Oh thank you good sir  I will gladly use this opportunity and will pm you shortly.

You seem to be wanting to go for a showcase build, for which case - it's fine.

The problem with all the pastel type fluids is that after being run for long enough, they all tend to leave gunk inside your loop.

 

If you're looking to build your loop and just leave it for a while - use something like distilled water.

[Maticks]

if you are going with hardline buy a few extra than you need its only a few dollars more but it gives you room for error and if you want to redo a piece at later stage that you are not happy with. Fluid change a year later, you have some spare pieces

 

buy the fluid cleaner and run it for 24 hours with just the pump on after you've built the system.

This just removes any oils and crap left over in the rad and fittings. It is good maintenance when you do a fluid change every year to run this cleaner through after a flush of the system with distilled water.

 

Don't know why everyone is saying use distilled water only.. you can do colour fluids. Mayhems dyes have non stain colours stick with those types.

I have used a few fluid brands over the last 15 years but i now stick with Mayhems it seems to be more compatible.

 

Brands to stay away from and you can Google or Youtube.

Thermaltake C1000, commonly referred to as Clog 1000

Primochill Vue, this stuff looks amazing when it came out we all had out mouths open. then the long list of things you can't have in your loop came out.

Basically its compatible with the bottle it comes in and rarely anything else. Breaks down and it needs cleaning out in a number of weeks.

Most people want to do water cooling after they see this stuff, its just too unstable to run with it reacting to so many things.

 

Brands that i had no issues with.

EK Cryofuel

Mayhems X1, Mayhems Dyes, Mayhems Pastel.

 

My suggestion will be plan out a drain port somewhere in your loop at the bottom.

Getting Liquid in and out is something you want to be hassle free, especially if you have to do things like flush a few times to get a dye out.

 

In my LianLi 011 XL I have an EK Coolstream XE at the bottom with a set of fan's sucking air in.

This Rad has double sided ports so i put the drain the bottom. one turn and everything comes out with gravity.

 

I ran out of tubing myself hence the fittings connected together.

 

 

 

[Dmitry Markin]

9 hours ago, Maticks said:

if you are going with hardline buy a few extra than you need its only a few dollars more but it gives you room for error and if you want to redo a piece at later stage that you are not happy with. Fluid change a year later, you have some spare pieces

 

buy the fluid cleaner and run it for 24 hours with just the pump on after you've built the system.

This just removes any oils and crap left over in the rad and fittings. It is good maintenance when you do a fluid change every year to run this cleaner through after a flush of the system with distilled water.

 

Don't know why everyone is saying use distilled water only.. you can do colour fluids. Mayhems dyes have non stain colours stick with those types.

I have used a few fluid brands over the last 15 years but i now stick with Mayhems it seems to be more compatible.

 

Brands to stay away from and you can Google or Youtube.

Thermaltake C1000, commonly referred to as Clog 1000

Primochill Vue, this stuff looks amazing when it came out we all had out mouths open. then the long list of things you can't have in your loop came out.

Basically its compatible with the bottle it comes in and rarely anything else. Breaks down and it needs cleaning out in a number of weeks.

Most people want to do water cooling after they see this stuff, its just too unstable to run with it reacting to so many things.

 

Brands that i had no issues with.

EK Cryofuel

Mayhems X1, Mayhems Dyes, Mayhems Pastel.

 

My suggestion will be plan out a drain port somewhere in your loop at the bottom.

Getting Liquid in and out is something you want to be hassle free, especially if you have to do things like flush a few times to get a dye out.

 

In my LianLi 011 XL I have an EK Coolstream XE at the bottom with a set of fan's sucking air in.

This Rad has double sided ports so i put the drain the bottom. one turn and everything comes out with gravity.

 

I ran out of tubing myself hence the fittings connected together.

 

 

 

Thanks! You are bringing my "white loop" hope back to life

 

By the way if you suggest getting some extra tubing, this brings me back to a question in my original post, if I should go for a "kit" or by the loop elements one by one?

End regarding the dyes, looks the Myahames was the only thing i found on German amazon

 

[Ravendarat]

For what its worth I have the Core P5 case and if you wanna make your life easy buy the Distribution plate for it, its a pump res combo and I used it with mine. I too had never done a custom loop and did hardline for my first one, it was SO EASY with that case. If you are gonna wall mount make damn sure you hit studs, infact I would suggest using some kind of of mounting wood backing that can be drilled into two studs. The entire system gets damn heavy.

[Dmitry Markin]

On 3/22/2020 at 9:52 PM, Ravendarat said:

For what its worth I have the Core P5 case and if you wanna make your life easy buy the Distribution plate for it, its a pump res combo and I used it with mine. I too had never done a custom loop and did hardline for my first one, it was SO EASY with that case. If you are gonna wall mount make damn sure you hit studs, infact I would suggest using some kind of of mounting wood backing that can be drilled into two studs. The entire system gets damn heavy.

Hey, thanks for the suggestion, 

By any chance can you post a photo of your build with a dist plate?

[Ravendarat]

Here’s one. If I remember I’ll get a better picture tomorrow