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PC frames suck after I cleaned inside PC, help please

r_flux
By r_flux
in Troubleshooting
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Hey so I built my PC about 2 years ago and decided to clean it out today. It's specs are: CPU - intel core i5-6600k 3.5 ghz, GPU - AMD Radeon RX 480, Motherboard - ASUS B150M-A D3, with 16GB of RAM. I used a swiffer duster to get rid of some of the dust and now I realize after looking it up that I probably shouldn't have done that. My frames have dropped considerably. I can barely even open overwatch anymore. Is there anything I can do to try and fix this? Please let me know what I should do.

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@r_flux Make sure everything is seated correctly such as ram or Video Card u may have disturbed something.

MSI MAG X670E TOMAHAWK WIFI Motherboard, AMD Ryzen 9 7900X3D Desk-top Processor (12-core/24-thread, 140MB cache, up to 5.6 GHz max boost), CORSAIR VENGEANCE DDR5 RAM 32GB (2x16GB) 6000MHz CL30 AMD EXPO iCUE Compatible Computer Memory, Samsung 990 PRO NVMe M.2 SSD, 2 TB, PCIe 4.0, 7,450 MB/s read, 6,900 MB/s write, Internal SSD, 2 x Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB Internal Hard Drive HDD – 3.5 Inch SATA 6 Gb/s 5400 RPM 256 MB Cache for Computer Desktop PC Laptop (ST4000DM004), MSI MPG A1000G PCIE5 Power Supply Unit, UK Plug - 1000W, 80 Plus Gold Certified, Fully Modular ATX 3.0, PCIe 5.0 GPU, XILENCE XC982 LQ240PRO AIO COOLER, XFX Speedster MERC 310 AMD Radeon RX 7900 XT 20GB 1 x AOC CU34G2XE & 1 x Samsung U32J59XUQ 3840 x 2160 4K, 1 x Samsung Evo 970 Evo Plus NVME PCI-E 1TB, 1 x Samsung Evo 850 250GB, 1 X Sandisk Ultra II SSD 240GB + 2 X 4TB Seagate Barracuda SATA III,  MZHOU 7 Ports PCIe USB 3.0 Card,  2 x UGREEN Hard Drive Enclosure 3.5 inch External SATA Disk Caddy Reader USB 3.0 2.5 3.5 HDD SSD 16TB UASP Case Dock Station With 12V 2A Power Adapter For Windows with 6TB Seagate Barracuda SATA III, Fractal Design Pop XL Case + 4 Fractal Design 140mm Case Fans, Logitech MX Vertical & MX Ergo Trackball Mouse using same USB unifying device, Microsoft Ergonomic Keyboard, Windows 11 Pro x64 Retail, 6TB Seagate USB 3.0 Backup Plus Hub, Blue Yeti Microphone, Logitech C922 Pro HD,  Logitech C920 Pro HD, Bit Defender Total Security 2021.

 

Second PC (Cyclops) - MSI 990FXA Gaming, AMD FX 8370 4Ghz, Corsair 16GB Vengeance Red 9-9-9-24 1600Mhz, Arctic Cooling Freezer 13, Asus Strix 1050TI 4GB, 1 X Acer 27" Full HD Monitor, 1 X Sandisk Ultra II SSD 240GB, 1 x Samsung Evo 850 250GB, 2 X Seagate Barracuda 2TB, 1 X WD Black 2TB, 1 x ASUS 16x DVDRW, X-Case Eagle III Case, 3 X Corsair AF 120 Case Fans, EVGA 850 G2 80+ Gold + PSU, Logitech MX Master Mouse, Corsair K30 Keyboard, Logitech C920 Webcam, R0DE NT1-A Microphone, Scarlet 212 Audio Interface (Revision 2), Windows 10 Pro X64 Retail, Bit Defender Total Security 2021, 2TB Seagate Expansion USB Hard Drive.

 

Third PC (Old Trustie) - Acer Aspire M3400, OEM Mainboard, AMD FX Athlon II X3 425 2.7Ghz, 16GB Corsair Value 1600Mhz Ram, OEM CPU Cooler, AMD R7 260 2GB GPU, 1 X Acer 27" Full HD Monitor, 1 X Sandisk Ultra II SSD 240GB, 2TB Samsung SATA III, 1 X OEM 16X DVDRW, 1 X Acer OEM Case, 1 X Corsair AF120 Case Can, Corsair CX500 Bronze+ CPU, Logitech MX Master Mouse, Corsair K30 Keyboard, Windows 10 Home X64 OEM, Logitech C920 Webcam, Bit Defender Total Security 2021.

 

Printers Include - Canon MG5750, Canon, IP8750,  Canon Pixma Mega tank G5050 & 2 X Samsung Xpress C410W.

 

1 X Zexrow Xbox360 Wired Game Controller.

 

TP Link Archer AX6000 Cable Router Wifi6 with a Virgin Media Hub 4.0 in Modem only mode running 1GB Fibre internet.

 

Samsung Galaxy S21+ 256GB Mobile Phone.

 

Internet Speed.....

https://www.speedtest.net/result/9935039193

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Do as @jimkirk363 said as well as doing a memtest86 and GPU test such as MSI Kombustor. It is very possible you may have fried something I have a swiffer duster and they can produce a lot of static, best thing to clean out a computer or any electronics is high pressure air from either an electric air blower or an air compressor. I don't even do canned air because it has a tendency to produce/blow out condensation.

Main Desktop: CPU - i9-14900k | Mobo - Gigabyte Z790 Aorus Elite AX | GPU - PNY Gaming OC RTX 5080 16GB | RAM - Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 64GB 6400mhz | AIO - Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360mm | PSU - Corsair RM1000X | Case - Hyte Y40 - White | Storage - Samsung 980 Pro 1TB Nvme /  Sabrent Rocket 4 Plus 4TB Nvme / Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB Nvme / Samsung 870 EVO 4TB SSD / Samsung 870 QVO 2TB SSD/ Samsung 860 EVO 500GB SSD|

 

TV Streaming PC: Intel Nuc CPU - i7 13th Gen | RAM - 16GB DDR4 3200mhz | Storage - Crucial P3 Plus 1TB Nvme |

 

Phone: Samsung Galaxy S26 Ultra - Black 256GB |

 

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Have you connected your monitor to the motherboard by accident?

Main system: Ryzen 7 7800X3D / Asus TUF Gaming B650-Plus / G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO 32GB 6000Mhz / Zotac RTX 5090 SOLID OC/ x2 WD_BLACK NS770 2TBs/ Corsair HX1000i/ NZXT H5 Flow

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1 hour ago, r_flux said:

Hey so I built my PC about 2 years ago and decided to clean it out today. It's specs are: CPU - intel core i5-6600k 3.5 ghz, GPU - AMD Radeon RX 480, Motherboard - ASUS B150M-A D3, with 16GB of RAM. I used a swiffer duster to get rid of some of the dust and now I realize after looking it up that I probably shouldn't have done that. My frames have dropped considerably. I can barely even open overwatch anymore. Is there anything I can do to try and fix this? Please let me know what I should do.

 

Well, at first glance it seems that you might have plugged the monitor into the iGPU and not the dedicated GPU. If you killed the dedicated GPU, the system likely would complain at boot that the drivers weren't loaded (check the Device Manager)

 

Now if you "maybe" did something to break the cooling, if you dropped or kicked the chassis, you can actually dislodge the heatsink or dedicated GPU, so what I would probably recommend is that if you don't see a software reason for this, take it all apart again and re-apply thermal paste to the CPU, and re-seat the GPU.

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