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Computer Failing to Start from Sleep Issue

I am using a SFF desktop computer from HP with DDR3 8GB of RAM, a 1TB Seagate Hard Drive, Intel Core 2 Duo e7500 CPU, and running Windows 10. This issue is very rare although happens like a few times a month. When I put the computer into sleep mode and then wake it later, the computer will display the lock screen image only, no time, date, or white text. When I press the space bar or try swiping up with my mouse, nothing happens and the password prompt does not appear. I usually wait a few minutes, and then decide to shutdown the system, pressing the power button does not work since nothing happens and I am forced to resort to turning off the computer by holding the power button down and then starting back up. I am not really sure why this issue is occurring, although any suggestions or possible explanations for this issue would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thank you for your help in advance,

 

   @Boomwebsearch

Hope this information post was helpful  ?,

        @Boomwebsearch 

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Core of the issue is probably very old hardware, that I certainly wouldn't recommend to use in 2019 for any purposes. I'd recommend you replacing your system.

 

The issue might be slowly failing PSU (or less likely MB). That might have problem providing providing power in that scenario. Do you have other issues than that? If yes than you might run memtest.

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Just now, Turtle Rig said:

I wouldn't take that junk system if you gave it to me for free... sighs

Really helpful to the OP /s

OP, the problem is likely Windows 10. Is it a 7200RPM HDD at least, or an OEM 5400rpm model? Windows 10 is incredibly hard on anything with a low amount of RAM and slow HDD. Kill all the startup programs (open task manager, tab over to startup, disable everything but essentials), open services.msc and disable superfetch (caches stuff in the RAM based on what it thinks you will open, kills HDDs and RAM on low spec machines). 

What all do you do with your computer though? If it's just web browsing and some movies and such, Linux would be a good option. There's a lot of very light running distros out there, built specifically to be easier on older machines. If you're up for messing with a new OS it's a good option. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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7 minutes ago, Turtle Rig said:

I wouldn't take that junk system if you gave it to me for free... sighs

And how is this comment gonna help the OP? Why do you reply with useless comments on literally every single thread!!!!

CPU: Intel Core i7-950 Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R CPU Cooler: NZXT HAVIK 140 RAM: Corsair Dominator DDR3-1600 (1x2GB), Crucial DDR3-1600 (2x4GB), Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3-1600 (1x4GB) GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 770 DirectCU II 2GB SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" 1TB HDDs: WD Green 3.5" 1TB, WD Blue 3.5" 1TB PSU: Corsair AX860i & CableMod ModFlex Cables Case: Fractal Design Meshify C TG (White) Fans: 2x Dynamic X2 GP-12 Monitors: LG 24GL600F, Samsung S24D390 Keyboard: Logitech G710+ Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum Mouse Pad: Steelseries QcK Audio: Bose SoundSport In-Ear Headphones

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11 minutes ago, krysta24 said:

Core of the issue is probably very old hardware, that I certainly wouldn't recommend to use in 2019 for any purposes. I'd recommend you replacing your system.

 

The issue might be slowly failing PSU (or less likely MB). That might have problem providing providing power in that scenario. Do you have other issues than that? If yes than you might run memtest.

I bought the system in late 2017 as a certified refurbished Microsoft computer from a company called RefurbishedPC. I would think that the computer components would have been inspected for failure and replaced, but maybe the hardware managed to pass the check there and began to fail within the last 1 and a half years that I have owned it. Because of my limited budget, I can't afford to buy an entire new computer, so I would prefer to change out broken components. Only other problem that I have had was that the computer used to start up randomly in sleep or when something like the air conditioner or printer started. Bought a CyberPower LCD series UPS a few months ago, and it has solved the starting by itself issue and improved the overall stability of the system. Now, I think that it is the memory most likely since I have had a couple BSOD errors when I was running audio in the background when restoring the computer from sleep state.

 

4 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

OP, the problem is likely Windows 10. Is it a 7200RPM HDD at least, or an OEM 5400rpm model?

The hard drive is a Seagate ST1000VM002 PipelineHD 1TB hard drive, and the OEM hard drive was already thrown out from the refurbisher, probably failed already since most drives don't get much past 5 years. I am planning to add in an SSD as the boot drive to help speed up the OS and improve the life of the hard drive when there is a sales event or something at my local computer hardware store, although I am not sure if adding and SSD would help to eliminate this issue which was mentioned in my original post. I do more than web browsing and email on the computer and have to use some software applications which won't run on Linux, so unfortunately I would need to use Windows 10.

Hope this information post was helpful  ?,

        @Boomwebsearch 

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3 minutes ago, Boomwebsearch said:

The hard drive is a Seagate ST1000VM002 PipelineHD 1TB hard drive, and the OEM hard drive was already thrown out from the refurbisher, probably failed already since most drives don't get much past 5 years. I am planning to add in an SSD as the boot drive to help speed up the OS and improve the life of the hard drive when there is a sales event or something at my local computer hardware store, although I am not sure if adding and SSD would help to eliminate this issue which was mentioned in my original post. I do more than web browsing and email on the computer and have to use some software applications which won't run on Linux, so unfortunately I would need to use Windows 10.

Adding an SSD will make it much, much snappier. I've had laptops here at work that barely crawl when running with an HDD, fly with an SSD. You've still got a much older and slower CPU, but eliminating the boot storage as a bottleneck will certainly help that. Though be aware 64-bit Windows can use nearly 4GB RAM all by itself so you could be hitting a cap there. If you can upgrade to 6 or 8GB RAM just to give yourself a bit of breathing room, that's probably the next best thing after an SSD for your system. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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1 hour ago, Boomwebsearch said:

DDR3 8GB of RAM

9 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

be aware 64-bit Windows can use nearly 4GB RAM all by itself so you could be hitting a cap there. If you can upgrade to 6 or 8GB RAM

When this computer was manufactured, it came initially with 4GB, although I had the refurbisher of this computer get the RAM upgraded to 8GB which I believe is the max for this system. According to task manager, the RAM stays between 43 to 50 percent even with around 5 Chrome tabs opened, so I think that 8GB is going to be enough for me. The computer is an HP Compaq 8000 elite small form factor system, I think that the way that the case is designed only gives room for 1 drive to be added to the system, and that happens to be under the power supply (not a very good design). I believe that there is an empty expansion slot below the DVD drive, but am not sure if I would be able to use that along with a 2.5 to 3.5 inch SSD holder bracket to add an SSD to the system with still keeping the hard drive. I found a 240GB SSD on Best Buy's store site, would this one be good for running the operating system?

 

link to the aforementioned product:   https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pny-240gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive/5900261.p?skuId=5900261

 

Hope this information post was helpful  ?,

        @Boomwebsearch 

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11 minutes ago, Boomwebsearch said:

When this computer was manufactured, it came initially with 4GB, although I had the refurbisher of this computer get the RAM upgraded to 8GB which I believe is the max for this system. According to task manager, the RAM stays between 43 to 50 percent even with around 5 Chrome tabs opened, so I think that 8GB is going to be enough for me. The computer is an HP Compaq 8000 elite small form factor system, I think that the way that the case is designed only gives room for 1 drive to be added to the system, and that happens to be under the power supply (not a very good design). I believe that there is an empty expansion slot below the DVD drive, but am not sure if I would be able to use that along with a 2.5 to 3.5 inch SSD holder bracket to add an SSD to the system with still keeping the hard drive. I found a 240GB SSD on Best Buy's store site, would this one be good for running the operating system?

 

link to the aforementioned product:   https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pny-240gb-internal-sata-solid-state-drive/5900261.p?skuId=5900261

 

Nice! On some cases with no mount point for an SSD I just tape the SSD inside. If the PCs are never used and it's clear of fans, you can let them hang too, they're light enough they won't damage themselves or the SATA cables. For the actual SSD though, make sure to get one with some sort of cache, the DRAM-less models (usually the really cheap ones) can get even slower than HDDs as they fill up, due to having no cache to move files around or something like that. The crucial MX (not BX, those are DRAM-less IIRC) series is good, as are Samsung's 850/860 and IDK many others, those are the two brands I tend to stick with. I have an ADATA SSD that's been fine so far, but I don't know much about it other than it was $25 and has worked so far, I don't think I've filled it up tho. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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42 minutes ago, Boomwebsearch said:

I bought the system in late 2017 as a certified refurbished Microsoft computer from a company called RefurbishedPC. I would think that the computer components would have been inspected for failure and replaced, but maybe the hardware managed to pass the check there and began to fail within the last 1 and a half years that I have owned it. Because of my limited budget, I can't afford to buy an entire new computer, so I would prefer to change out broken components. Only other problem that I have had was that the computer used to start up randomly in sleep or when something like the air conditioner or printer started. Bought a CyberPower LCD series UPS a few months ago, and it has solved the starting by itself issue and improved the overall stability of the system. Now, I think that it is the memory most likely since I have had a couple BSOD errors when I was running audio in the background when restoring the computer from sleep state.

 

The hard drive is a Seagate ST1000VM002 PipelineHD 1TB hard drive, and the OEM hard drive was already thrown out from the refurbisher, probably failed already since most drives don't get much past 5 years. I am planning to add in an SSD as the boot drive to help speed up the OS and improve the life of the hard drive when there is a sales event or something at my local computer hardware store, although I am not sure if adding and SSD would help to eliminate this issue which was mentioned in my original post. I do more than web browsing and email on the computer and have to use some software applications which won't run on Linux, so unfortunately I would need to use Windows 10.

You can try to run memtest (to rule out memory), but from your description I'm almost sure that all your issues are PSU related. They probably checked, but I doubt that they did anything beyond "it works", PC HW fails old one more so and PSUs are one of the components likely to fail. 1,5 years isn't that short period either.

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