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Monster Rockin Roller 3 Troubleshooting

I have a Monster Rocking Roller 3 speaker that isn't working. I have checked the power cable, but when I plug it in and turn the switch on it doesn't turn on. However, the built in AC outputs work when I plug my phone's charging cable into them. The USB ports do not work. What should be my next step with troubleshooting?

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  • 9 months later...

did you ever figure out the problem? Mine is doing the same thing. 

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  • 1 month later...

I figured it out apparently alot pple had this happen we should start a class action lawsuit. No power to the panel, but ac plug works when u plug something in. Its this chip i circled in the pic. I ran a bypass wire from the part before it to the long rectangle after it and solder it on  it only works plugged in. I only did that because i am not a professional and no one was open during covid. This small square has to do with the batter charging too it dont work. Just only with ac plugged in for now.

Screenshot_20200623-091450.png

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The small rectangle is under the pink by the long one it has to bypassed here. I also reddi the soldering on the rectangle to thinken it up they were awfully thin. This speaker i read alot of reviews had the same problems prolly was a defect!!! In all that came out!

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Do you have a pic of the bypass by any chance?

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My Monister Rockin Roller 3 Bluetooth Speaker  . My power supply is working but the PCB 48-09RR00312000 MIC+CHARGE-PCB 2017-01-09  94VO 1.6MM REV:02 is bad . 

I need this board or how to fix to make it chaege and sent power to the unit ... 

I just Called and they will not let you order parts :(( they only do repair only for the whoe unit .. That me shipping it to them and pay to ship back .. plus $25 per hour labor ..

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On 6/23/2020 at 9:24 AM, Justmeftw said:

I figured it out apparently alot pple had this happen we should start a class action lawsuit. No power to the panel, but ac plug works when u plug something in. Its this chip i circled in the pic. I ran a bypass wire from the part before it to the long rectangle after it and solder it on  it only works plugged in. I only did that because i am not a professional and no one was open during covid. This small square has to do with the batter charging too it dont work. Just only with ac plugged in for now.

Screenshot_20200623-091450.png

 

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Will this help my unit power up . If my power supply is working . I need the fix on the PCB like you picture ..:))

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have one with the same issues that it won't turn on. But I tested all the components and narrowed to one. Now the problem is that the component I suspect is the culprit doesn't have any numbers to order it or anything to find a data sheet about that ic.

Can you see any part numbers on top of that ic (circled in red) in yours?

The ones circled in blue are fine and almost sure the one showed above with the purple circle is or was good too and the reason it powers when he jumped with a wire is that he bypassed it and by no means that is a solution. 

So if any of you guys can find a numbers on yours and don't mind sharing them. Then I can buy the part, replace it and confirm with you if that solved the problem.

81182E6A-E8F5-4C52-A7FF-1B146C87A1AD.jpeg

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UPDATE: 

I found out it was the battery. This system needs to detect a good battery voltage before it lets the power to come on. hopefully that helps 

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  • 2 years later...

To 'jump start' the system, you can use a 12v 23A garage door battery, perhaps even a 9v which I didn't test, across the battery terminals (JST connector between the 16V-input and the on/off-switch JST connectors) or the solder connections on the board itself which are connected to the JST connector. It apparently charges up a capacitor (just guessing) which allows the system to run for a couple of minutes. I guess one could permanently hook up a battery there but I didn't check if its just an input only from the 12V battery or not. Your mileage may vary. I ended up just getting a new 12v9A battery.Screenshot_20200623-091450.png.69da89524e1fb6deec31d81e78c04d95.png.5ff490fbeca731e4e96d3fcf4e9d647b.png

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  • 9 months later...

Not sure if this will help anyone at this time, but removing all the electronics directly connecting to the power source and battery help me to at least be able to use the unit with an alternative power source, in my case I included the existing on/off bottom already on the unit. To make it simple Just disconnect all of the wires from the boards and isolate the 2 black and 2 red wires coming from the top of the unit. This will give you full use of the unit including the wireless phone charger (I do it know what the white wire does). Initially I used a 9V battery just to make sure the unit was working, but any 12V battery will work to power up and make the entire unit functional. I’m attaching some photos as reference. 

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  • 1 month later...

Does this pretty much bypass that whole board ? Like the ac power supply, the power switch, battery indicator, ac power outlets? Also, when mine was working I overloaded the ac plugs. They no longer work, do you know if there's a reset or have I probably burnt something on the board? Thanks

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