Jump to content

Reinstalling Windows 10, doesn't let you choose which drive or partition?

ramm
By ramm
in Windows
 Share
Posted

So i've always reinstalled Windows 7 using the disc and it let me choose which drives/partition I wanted to format but apparently Windows 10 makes everything dumb by not even letting you choose which drive or partition gets formatted?

 

aHR0cDovL3d3dy5sYXB0b3BtYWcuY29tL2ltYWdl

 

How do I let it choose which drives I want to format and which not?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

You need to boot from the W10 disc or USB drive. It then will let you format your partitions.

Quote me so I can reply back :) 

MY PC-> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA T2 1000W 80 Plus Titanium MOTHERBOARD: ASUS X370 Crosshair VI Hero CPU: RYZEN 7 3700X RAM: G.Skill 32GB (4X8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C14 GPU: EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 HYBRID STORAGE: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe SSD; 2TB WD Caviar Blue; Crucial MX500 500GB SSD CUSTOM LOOP: EK-Velocity Nickel + Plexi CPU block, EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Acetal + Nickel GPU Block w/ EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate, EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM, EK-CoolStream PE 240 w/ 2x Noctua NF-F12 Chromax fans, EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm Nickel, Mayhems UV White tubing 13/10mm, 3x Noctua NF-S12A Chromax case fans

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
  • Author
Just now, bruny06 said:

You need to boot from the W10 disc or USB drive. It then will let you format your partitions.

Damn, I dont have those. I upgraded for free over the internet from my windows 7.

 

If only they didn't try to make things easier by making them more complicated. What ever happened to giving PC users control?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
1 minute ago, ramm said:

Damn, I dont have those. I upgraded for free over the internet from my windows 7.

 

If only they didn't try to make things easier by making them more complicated. What ever happened to giving PC users control?

Are you currently on Windows 7 and upgrading to Windows 10? In my experience with Windows 10 upgrades from Windows 7, it is ALWAYS better to do a fresh install. You can use any USB drive with 8GB minimum storage space to create your own Windows 10 bootable drive. I would suggest backing up everything you need and do a clean install of windows 10.

Quote me so I can reply back :) 

MY PC-> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA T2 1000W 80 Plus Titanium MOTHERBOARD: ASUS X370 Crosshair VI Hero CPU: RYZEN 7 3700X RAM: G.Skill 32GB (4X8GB) DDR4 3200MHz C14 GPU: EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 HYBRID STORAGE: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe SSD; 2TB WD Caviar Blue; Crucial MX500 500GB SSD CUSTOM LOOP: EK-Velocity Nickel + Plexi CPU block, EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Acetal + Nickel GPU Block w/ EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Backplate, EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM, EK-CoolStream PE 240 w/ 2x Noctua NF-F12 Chromax fans, EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm Nickel, Mayhems UV White tubing 13/10mm, 3x Noctua NF-S12A Chromax case fans

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
  • Author
1 minute ago, bruny06 said:

Are you currently on Windows 7 and upgrading to Windows 10? In my experience with Windows 10 upgrades from Windows 7, it is ALWAYS better to do a fresh install. You can use any USB drive with 8GB minimum storage space to create your own Windows 10 bootable drive. I would suggest backing up everything you need and do a clean install of windows 10.

I reinstalled Windows 7 from CD like 1 or 2 years ago and then right after windows 7 was freshly installed I upgraded to windows 10.

 

Not sure if this is/was the best course of action.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

If you already did update win7 to 10, you have a working 10 license.

In that case, go to https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 and download the tool to create installation media.

Use the tool to create a USB flash drive, install Windows from it, and once you login with your M$ account it will activate Windows.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
  • Author
On 5/16/2019 at 1:12 PM, 191x7 said:

If you already did update win7 to 10, you have a working 10 license.

In that case, go to https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 and download the tool to create installation media.

Use the tool to create a USB flash drive, install Windows from it, and once you login with your M$ account it will activate Windows.

thanks, im making the USB drive right now. However i'm not sure if I have a microsoft account. Ivé never logged in on one so i'm not sure how that would go?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

You don't need to use Microsoft account to activate Windows. Windows itself queries the activation server automatically during installation and if license is found for your Hardware ID it will automatically activate it for you. Meaning you had to activate your Windows copy on your current system at least once and it'll be active forever until you change your system enough to change the Hardware ID as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
  • Author
11 hours ago, RejZoR said:

You don't need to use Microsoft account to activate Windows. Windows itself queries the activation server automatically during installation and if license is found for your Hardware ID it will automatically activate it for you. Meaning you had to activate your Windows copy on your current system at least once and it'll be active forever until you change your system enough to change the Hardware ID as well.

Ah ok, i've never really understood how hardware id works. But im planning on purchasing&installing a new GPU and then formatting the PC along with that to make it run even smoother. Would I have to install win10 on a system with my old gpu first? I'd rather not obviously cause I would have to uninstall those drivers and I wanna start clean. But I dont know if I have to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

Hardware ID generally only changes on big hardware changes. Usually changing your motherboard with another one is what triggers re-activation every single time. Changing graphic card shouldn't ever trigger it, same for RAM upgrades and I don't think I had to reactivate it when I changed my HDD to SSD. Also, this is more important only for Windows DSP versions that are meant to only be installed on one system and stick with it till the end of its use cycle and then that copy is gone forever if you recycle the system. If you have a retail version of Windows that you bought separately, all you have to do is just re-activate it and you're good since it has no activation limitations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
  • Author
6 hours ago, RejZoR said:

Hardware ID generally only changes on big hardware changes. Usually changing your motherboard with another one is what triggers re-activation every single time. Changing graphic card shouldn't ever trigger it, same for RAM upgrades and I don't think I had to reactivate it when I changed my HDD to SSD. Also, this is more important only for Windows DSP versions that are meant to only be installed on one system and stick with it till the end of its use cycle and then that copy is gone forever if you recycle the system. If you have a retail version of Windows that you bought separately, all you have to do is just re-activate it and you're good since it has no activation limitations.

Ok thanks. Just in case anything isn't working I could always contact microsoft with my win7 key and they might hook me up?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted

If by some weird chance that happens, yes. You'll just have to explain them why it happened and they'll reactivate it for you. I've done that when my motherboard died and got new one. I was using Windows DSP so I couldn't just reactivate. But MS folks did it for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted
  • Author
5 hours ago, RejZoR said:

If by some weird chance that happens, yes. You'll just have to explain them why it happened and they'll reactivate it for you. I've done that when my motherboard died and got new one. I was using Windows DSP so I couldn't just reactivate. But MS folks did it for me.

based microsoft, pretty sure apple wouldnt do this they'd charge extra

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing Windows

×