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why is my 6700k so hot 85+c

I was having an issue with my 6700k stock going to 92c with my case open and a bad cooler.

 

I installed a much better cooler the arctic 34, which claims 2c of the best air cooler the Noctua d-15.

 

I am still getting temps of up to 85c when gaming, so I have gained around 5c from a basically stock cooler to a decent one.

 

Have I got a bad chip. It fluctuates a lot when Idle, from say 20-50, but I have been told that is usual by other people here.

 

 

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check your mounting pressure first, it should be tight enough to need some force to unscrew.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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A single 120mm tower is supposed to rival pretty much the best dual tower cooler on the market? Shouldn't be that hot, but it won't cool close to as well as the NH-D15 would. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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Just now, Jurrunio said:

check your mounting pressure first, it should be tight enough to need some force to unscrew.

The screws are very tight I made sure of that

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Just now, benjiven said:

The screws are very tight I made sure of that

what about the thermal paste? Not sure if Arctic ones come preapplied, but this or the pea method are usually just enough and don't cover up the entire lid.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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5 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

A single 120mm tower is supposed to rival pretty much the best dual tower cooler on the market? Shouldn't be that hot, but it won't cool close to as well as the NH-D15 would. 

I did a lot of research and there is minimal difference between two fans and one. The maximum difference I could find in any benchmark was 3c.

 

The Arctic 34 is around around 2.5c hotter than the Noctua D-15

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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

what about the thermal paste? Not sure if Arctic ones come preapplied, but this or the pea method are usually just enough and don't cover up the entire lid.

No I applied a large pea-sized amount of MX-4

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2 minutes ago, benjiven said:

I did a lot of research and there is minimal difference between two fans and one. The maximum difference I could find in any benchmark was 3c.

 

The Arctic 34 is around around 2.5c hotter than the Noctua D-15

That's because most reviewers are retards and test aircoolers on non-delidded Intel chips that hit the same temperature with just about any heatsink, because most of the heat is trapped between the lid.

 

Find one that test with a load resistor setup. 

 

Speaking of which, check the voltages.

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3 minutes ago, Majestic said:

That's because most reviewers are retards and test aircoolers on non-delidded Intel chips that hit the same temperature with just about any heatsink, because most of the heat is trapped between the lid.

 

Find one that test with a load resistor setup. 

 

Speaking of which, check the voltages.

The voltages are set to automatic and fluctuate from any where from 1.2-1.43

 

I'm not looking to de-lid, I'm still getting 10c better with this cooler but 81c at max load on stock doesn't leave much room for overclocking I assume?

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1 minute ago, benjiven said:

The voltages are set to automatic and fluctuate from any where from 1.2-1.43

 

I'm not looking to de-lid, I'm still getting 10c better with this cooler but 81c at max load on stock doesn't leave much room for overclocking I assume?

1.43 seems excessive. It's probably running those performance enhancing bios features like MCE etc that are ramping up voltage, try disabling those.

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7 minutes ago, Majestic said:

1.43 seems excessive. It's probably running those performance enhancing bios features like MCE etc that are ramping up voltage, try disabling those.

MCE? Where can I find that.

 

Wouldn't it be better to just set a custom voltage. If so what would be appropriate?

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1 minute ago, johndole25 said:

MCE? Where can I find that.

 

Wouldn't it be better to just set a custom voltage. If so what would be appropriate?

Better off using the stock voltage so it also undervolts when it's running lower clocks. MCE is multi-core enchancement. It's named something else on every board, look for something similar. 

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3 minutes ago, Majestic said:

Better off using the stock voltage so it also undervolts when it's running lower clocks. MCE is multi-core enchancement. It's named something else on every board, look for something similar. 

The problme is that my MIN voltage is 1.325, I dont really want o be changing setting like MCE unless I know the name 100% and it wont affect performance.

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35 minutes ago, johndole25 said:

The problme is that my MIN voltage is 1.325, I dont really want o be changing setting like MCE unless I know the name 100% and it wont affect performance.

It will, but it's at a cost of running the CPU at high temperatures. If you're worried about performance, you can also manually set a multiplier using the stock voltage instead.

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1 minute ago, Majestic said:

It will, but it's at a cost of running the CPU at high temperatures. If you're worried about performance, you can also manually set a multiplier using the stock voltage instead.

Ok so I have MCE disabled, but I run at 4.2ghz constantly anyway since I have high performance enable din windows and have synced all cores.

 

Ideally I want to be lowering my voltage since that is probably why its going to high temps from a bunch of thread I have seen on the subject?

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7 minutes ago, Majestic said:

It will, but it's at a cost of running the CPU at high temperatures. If you're worried about performance, you can also manually set a multiplier using the stock voltage instead.

Ok so disabling MCE I know have max temps of 73c. It is running at the same clocks so what is it doing exactly?

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