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Future-proofing  

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  1. 1. When it comes to future-proofing a system you're building, which route do you take?

    • Future-proofing a system isn't a thing.
      6
    • Get the strongest parts you can, overspend so that the system performs well as long as possible
      2
    • I always make builds as upgradable as possible. Future upgrades are the only way to future-proof a system.
      5


When it comes to future-proofing a system you're building, which route do you take? Can you share some of your experiences? Is future-proofing something you bother with? What's your take on upgrading builds that weren't meant to be upgraded?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 32+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - Madlions MAD 68HE Pro - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Tripowin Vivace - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
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Only going to speak about general devices because I can't be bothered to lay out my opinions on high performance tasks. Suffice to say I think that's complicated.

 

At current time, at least for x86_64 based consumer devices, future proofing isn't necessary. There have been only relatively minor improvements in performance since the very first Core i and FX series chips, and even most Core 2 and old Athlon/Phenom chips are still running strong for the light workloads that most people use their computers for. We'll see how it goes in the coming years with skyrocketing core counts on smaller and smaller chips.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

 

Desktop:

Intel Core i7-11700K | Noctua NH-D15S chromax.black | ASUS ROG Strix Z590-E Gaming WiFi  | 32 GB G.SKILL TridentZ 3200 MHz | ASUS TUF Gaming RTX 3080 | 1TB Samsung 980 Pro M.2 PCIe 4.0 SSD | 2TB WD Blue M.2 SATA SSD | Seasonic Focus GX-850 Fractal Design Meshify C Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop:

HP Omen 15 | AMD Ryzen 7 5800H | 16 GB 3200 MHz | Nvidia RTX 3060 | 1 TB WD Black PCIe 3.0 SSD | 512 GB Micron PCIe 3.0 SSD | Windows 11

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Just get the best parts you can for the budget you have.  Also spend extra in the areas that count  like CPU, GPU, PSU and Case ( unless you dont care what it looks like.) and skimp on the cheaper items that can easily be upgraded down the road like ram, storage, CPU cooler (if needed), and fans. 

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There's no such thing as future-proof, get what suffices your needs today, replace it when it no longer does.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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A system for 1000 $ would fulfill your needs but you could spend 2500 $ get 6+ years of a usable experience out of it. 

Or just buy a new system for another 1k after four years if it doesn't fit your needs anymore, sell the old one as an office pc and get more performance and new features compared to the 2500$ system. 

 

Only thing you can future proof is your psu and case/cpu cooler because if they are good quality they make 10 years or more and usually things like power consumption get lower over the years or stay around the same. 

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