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Hard Drive having multiple issues.

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3 minutes ago, BeatTheYeet said:

I know I need a new drive at this point. I'm just trying to figure out why my drives keep doing this. This is the third time.

Oh you meant this is a third time you had a hard drive fail this way? Yeah, then it definitely points to the power supply.

So I decided that I needed to do cable management on my PC. All the cables were smushed under the graphics card and blocking airflow, so I decided I needed to do something about it. I redid all my cables and powered my system on, except the system wouldn't power on. I have had this issue before where if I unplug and plug a hard drive back in, the PC wouldn't boot. I disconnected my hard drive and now it works. This has happened 3 times now and all the times my drive never worked again. The pc boots if the SATA cable is in, but if the power cable is in, it won't turn on. Just a split second of lights and then it shuts off. I managed to get the pc to turn on with it connected by swapping the power connectors, however now it isn't detected in the bios. This is exactly what happened the other two times. I don't know why this keeps happening. If you can help me figure out this issue, thank you!

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Did you clean inside with compressed air can ?

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Did you try connecting the drive to a different port on the motherboard?

 

What is on the hard drive?

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3 minutes ago, BeatTheYeet said:

Yes

 

Then i think this is the issue, take a hair dryer and blow everything with hot air for quite a bit everywhere, this should solve the problem.

Compressed air spray (water) depending on the the angle you are holding it and you turned on the system to fast, didn't have time to dry....

CPU:i7 9700k 5047.5Mhz All Cores Mobo: MSI MPG Z390 Gaming Edge AC, RAM:Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 3200MHz DDR4 OC 3467Mhz GPU:MSI RTX 2070 ARMOR 8GB OC Storage:Samsung SSD 970 EVO NVMe M.2 250GB, 2x SSD ADATA PRO SP900 256GB, HDD WD CB 2TB, HDD GREEN 2TB PSU: Seasonic focus plus 750w Gold Display(s): 1st: LG 27UK650-W, 4K, IPS, HDR10, 10bit(8bit + A-FRC). 2nd: Samsung 24" LED Monitor (SE390), Cooling:Fazn CPU Cooler Aero 120T Push/pull Corsair ML PRO Fans Keyboard: Corsair K95 Platinum RGB mx Rapidfire Mouse:Razer Naga Chroma  Headset: Razer Kraken 7.1 Chroma Sound: Logitech X-540 5.1 Surround Sound Speaker Case: Modded Case Inverted, 5 intake 120mm, one exhaust 120mm.

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19 minutes ago, Constantin said:

Then i think this is the issue, take a hair dryer and blow everything with hot air for quite a bit everywhere, this should solve the problem.

Compressed air spray (water) depending on the the angle you are holding it and you turned on the system to fast, didn't have time to dry....

Canned air is typically a mixture of propane and butane, which boil at -44,5 °C and -0,5 °C respectively

Edited by vojta.pokorny
Canned air, not compressed

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Notebook:  HP Spectre x360 13" late 2018

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9 minutes ago, Constantin said:

Then i think this is the issue, take a hair dryer and blow everything with hot air for quite a bit everywhere, this should solve the problem.

Compressed air spray (water) depending on the the angle you are holding it and you turned on the system to fast, didn't have time to dry....

I don't think it was the compressed air. I didn't boot my pc immediately after that. After that I did some more cable management.

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9 minutes ago, BeatTheYeet said:

Yes, and only games are on the drive.

Can you try to put it into a different PC and see if it gets detected?

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The HUMBLE Computer:

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Notebook:  HP Spectre x360 13" late 2018

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2 minutes ago, vojta.pokorny said:

Compressed air is typically a mixture of propane and butane, which boil at -44,5 °C and -0,5 °C respectively

Compressed air from a compressor is just pressurized atmospheric air. Since atmospheric air can also contain water vapor, compressed air, when it expands and cools, often will blow out condensed water.

 

The so called canned air is actually difluoroethane.

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4 minutes ago, BeatTheYeet said:

I tried and nothing.

Were you using the same cables for the other PC? I think it's either a cable problem or HDD-port-thing problem. Perhaps check the HDD's contacts to see if they're blocked.

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3 minutes ago, BeatTheYeet said:

I tried and nothing.

Could you please specify the approximate age of the drive, and the model of HDD, motherboard and power supply?

 

Spoiler

I recently ran into an issue when I tried to plug an external drive to my dad's PC via eSATA. Next thing I know I'm spending an hour swapping SATA cables to get all his internal drives to detect, because some of his SATA ports on the motherboard are apparently dead. So much for my plan to convert his PC into a household NAS...

 

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The HUMBLE Computer:

AMD Ryzen 7 3700X • Noctua NH-U12A • ASUS STRIX X570-F • Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz CL16 • GIGABYTE Nvidia GTX1080 G1 • FRACTAL DESIGN Define C w/ blue Meshify C front • Corsair RM750x (2018) • OS: Kingston KC2000 1TB GAMES: Intel 660p 1TB DATA: Seagate Desktop 2TB • Acer Predator X34P 34" 3440x1440p 120 Hz IPS curved Ultrawide • Corsair STRAFE RGB Cherry MX Brown • Logitech G502 HERO / Logitech MX Master 3

 

Notebook:  HP Spectre x360 13" late 2018

Core i7 8550U • 16GB DDR3 RAM • 512GB NVMe SSD • 13" 1920x1080p 120 Hz IPS touchscreen • dual Thunderbolt 3

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26 minutes ago, BeatTheYeet said:

Yes

 

Do not take apart a hdd, it will basically ruin them.

 

Just get a new hdd, there isn't much you can fix on it. If you need the data send it to a data recovery service.

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1 minute ago, Imbellis said:

Were you using the same cables for the other PC? I think it's either a cable problem or HDD-port-thing problem. Perhaps check the HDD's contacts to see if they're blocked.

I checked them and I used different cables. Nothing is working. I'm starting to thing my power supply is killing my drives.

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1 minute ago, Electronics Wizardy said:

Do not take apart a hdd, it will basically ruin them.

 

Just get a new hdd, there isn't much you can fix on it. If you need the data send it to a data recovery service.

I really don't think he meant he cleaned the inside of the HDD, but rather the inside of the case.

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1 minute ago, Electronics Wizardy said:

Do not take apart a hdd, it will basically ruin them.

 

Just get a new hdd, there isn't much you can fix on it. If you need the data send it to a data recovery service.

I know I need a new drive at this point. I'm just trying to figure out why my drives keep doing this. This is the third time.

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2 minutes ago, vojta.pokorny said:

Could you please specify the approximate age of the drive, and the model of HDD, motherboard and power supply?

 

  Reveal hidden contents

I recently ran into an issue when I tried to plug an external drive to my dad's PC via eSATA. Next thing I know I'm spending an hour swapping SATA cables to get all his internal drives to detect, because some of his SATA ports on the motherboard are apparently dead. So much for my plan to convert his PC into a household NAS...

 

The drive is about a year old. The drive is a 2TB Western Digital Black. The motherboard is a MSI b150m-pro-D. The powersupply is a 750watt ThermalTake Toughpower Gold.

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3 minutes ago, BeatTheYeet said:

I know I need a new drive at this point. I'm just trying to figure out why my drives keep doing this. This is the third time.

Oh you meant this is a third time you had a hard drive fail this way? Yeah, then it definitely points to the power supply.

Quote and/or tag people using @ otherwise they don't get notified of your response!

 

The HUMBLE Computer:

AMD Ryzen 7 3700X • Noctua NH-U12A • ASUS STRIX X570-F • Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz CL16 • GIGABYTE Nvidia GTX1080 G1 • FRACTAL DESIGN Define C w/ blue Meshify C front • Corsair RM750x (2018) • OS: Kingston KC2000 1TB GAMES: Intel 660p 1TB DATA: Seagate Desktop 2TB • Acer Predator X34P 34" 3440x1440p 120 Hz IPS curved Ultrawide • Corsair STRAFE RGB Cherry MX Brown • Logitech G502 HERO / Logitech MX Master 3

 

Notebook:  HP Spectre x360 13" late 2018

Core i7 8550U • 16GB DDR3 RAM • 512GB NVMe SSD • 13" 1920x1080p 120 Hz IPS touchscreen • dual Thunderbolt 3

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7 minutes ago, Lady Fitzgerald said:

Compressed air from a compressor is just pressurized atmospheric air. Since atmospheric air can also contain water vapor, compressed air, when it expands and cools, often will blow out condensed water.

 

The so called canned air is actually difluoroethane.

Thanks for the correction, i meant canned air as an air can was mentioned earlier. This substance however should also have a very low boiling point, so the point I originally wanted to make is valid.

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The HUMBLE Computer:

AMD Ryzen 7 3700X • Noctua NH-U12A • ASUS STRIX X570-F • Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz CL16 • GIGABYTE Nvidia GTX1080 G1 • FRACTAL DESIGN Define C w/ blue Meshify C front • Corsair RM750x (2018) • OS: Kingston KC2000 1TB GAMES: Intel 660p 1TB DATA: Seagate Desktop 2TB • Acer Predator X34P 34" 3440x1440p 120 Hz IPS curved Ultrawide • Corsair STRAFE RGB Cherry MX Brown • Logitech G502 HERO / Logitech MX Master 3

 

Notebook:  HP Spectre x360 13" late 2018

Core i7 8550U • 16GB DDR3 RAM • 512GB NVMe SSD • 13" 1920x1080p 120 Hz IPS touchscreen • dual Thunderbolt 3

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3 minutes ago, vojta.pokorny said:

Oh you meant this is a third time you had a hard drive fail this way? Yeah, then it definitely points to the power supply.

It's all the same thing too. Drive causes pc to not boot, eventually i get the pc to boot, but drive is no longer in the bios and is completely dead.

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8 minutes ago, vojta.pokorny said:

Oh you meant this is a third time you had a hard drive fail this way? Yeah, then it definitely points to the power supply.

If it is the power supply. Should i remove it or just not use my pc to avoid killing any other parts?

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1 minute ago, BeatTheYeet said:

It's all the same thing too. Drive causes pc to not boot, eventually i get the pc to boot, but drive is no longer in the bios and is completely dead.

It should be a modular power supply. Are you sure that the cables are connected to correct pluggs on the power supply?

 

Quote and/or tag people using @ otherwise they don't get notified of your response!

 

The HUMBLE Computer:

AMD Ryzen 7 3700X • Noctua NH-U12A • ASUS STRIX X570-F • Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz CL16 • GIGABYTE Nvidia GTX1080 G1 • FRACTAL DESIGN Define C w/ blue Meshify C front • Corsair RM750x (2018) • OS: Kingston KC2000 1TB GAMES: Intel 660p 1TB DATA: Seagate Desktop 2TB • Acer Predator X34P 34" 3440x1440p 120 Hz IPS curved Ultrawide • Corsair STRAFE RGB Cherry MX Brown • Logitech G502 HERO / Logitech MX Master 3

 

Notebook:  HP Spectre x360 13" late 2018

Core i7 8550U • 16GB DDR3 RAM • 512GB NVMe SSD • 13" 1920x1080p 120 Hz IPS touchscreen • dual Thunderbolt 3

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3 minutes ago, BeatTheYeet said:

Yes, I'm sure

 

Then I'd shut it off, unplug it, take it out and not let it anywhere near my computer if I were you. Try to RMA the unit or just get a new Tier 1-3 one (refer to the Tier list in my signature)

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The HUMBLE Computer:

AMD Ryzen 7 3700X • Noctua NH-U12A • ASUS STRIX X570-F • Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz CL16 • GIGABYTE Nvidia GTX1080 G1 • FRACTAL DESIGN Define C w/ blue Meshify C front • Corsair RM750x (2018) • OS: Kingston KC2000 1TB GAMES: Intel 660p 1TB DATA: Seagate Desktop 2TB • Acer Predator X34P 34" 3440x1440p 120 Hz IPS curved Ultrawide • Corsair STRAFE RGB Cherry MX Brown • Logitech G502 HERO / Logitech MX Master 3

 

Notebook:  HP Spectre x360 13" late 2018

Core i7 8550U • 16GB DDR3 RAM • 512GB NVMe SSD • 13" 1920x1080p 120 Hz IPS touchscreen • dual Thunderbolt 3

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