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My Swiftech H220 finally came in.

I carefully inspected the entire unit, and there didn't seem to be any issues other than very minor bent radiator fins. Copper radiators are more delicate than aluminum so it's totally understandable. Plus, Swiftech does say that having a bent fin or two is normal. 

 

I decided to do some minor work on it by carefully straightening up some of the bent copper fins with a pair of tweezers, thin sewing needles, and wooden toothpicks. After all that is said and done, I realized some of the original black paint on the radiator has come off (since they apply a thing layer anyways), exposing the copper.

 

To me, it seems that having exposed copper is not something you want, so I wish to fix that. I'm afraid it will begin to discolour and/or oxidize as time goes by.

 

Now, the big question is:

Is it okay to use Acrylic Paint on copper?

Members on the forums here suggested using a black Sharpie pen. Would that be a suitable solution as well?

 

If I do decide to use Acrylic Paint, it will be a very thin amount - almost quite literally just touching it with the paint brush.

 

 

Any tips?

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Intel X99 Rig (Officially Decommissioned, Dead CPU returned to Intel)

  • i7-8086K @ 5.1 GHz
  • Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master
  • Sapphire NITRO+ RX 6800 XT S.E + EKwb Quantum Vector Full Cover Waterblock
  • 32GB G.Skill TridentZ DDR4-3000 CL14 @ DDR-3400 custom CL15 timings
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  • EVGA SuperNOVA 850W P2 + Red/White CableMod Cables
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AMD 990FX Rig (Decommissioned)

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  • Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD + Kingston V300 120GB SSD + WD Caviar Black 1TB HDD
  • Corsair TX850 (ver.1)
  • Cooler Master HAF 932

 

<> Electrical Engineer , B.Eng <>

<> Electronics & Computer Engineering Technologist (Diploma + Advanced Diploma) <>

<> Electronics Engineering Technician for the Canadian Department of National Defence <>

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My Swiftech H220 finally came in.

I carefully inspected the entire unit, and there didn't seem to be any issues other than very minor bent radiator pins. Copper radiators are more delicate than aluminum so it's totally understandable. Plus, Swiftech does that having a bent fin or two is normal. 

 

I decided to do some minor work on it by carefully straightening up some of the bent copper fins with a pair of tweezers, thin sewing needles, and wooden toothpicks. After all that is said and done, I realized some of the original black paint on the radiator has come off (since they apply a thing layer anyways), exposing the copper.

 

To me, it seems that having exposed copper is not something you want, so I wish to fix that. I'm afraid it will begin to discolour and/or oxidize as time goes by.

 

Now, the big question is:

Is it okay to use Acrylic Paint on copper?

Members on the forums here suggested using a black Sharpie pen. Would that be a suitable solution as well?

 

If I do decide to use Acrylic Paint, it will be a very thin amount - almost quite literally just touching it with the paint brush.

 

 

Any tips?

Black Sharpie will the the easiest and quickest way to get it done, and if your just touching up the copper with acrylic paint shouldn't be a problem probably suggest a metal paint if you have some on hand since they have better adhesion but wouldn't be a huge factor since just a minor touch up. Other than that like you said keep paint really thin.

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By painting fins you are making them useless. It's like putting an insulator on them. Hence the paint they use is very very thin.

Feel free to PM for any water-cooling questions. Check out my profile for more ways to contact me.

 

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Hmm...I suppose I'll go with the Sharpie, and if I must, I'll use a thin, thin layer of acrylic paint.

I'm not too concerned about the asthetics. The main reason to paint it over is to prevent any discolouration and/or oxidation when copper is exposed for long period of time.

Intel Z390 Rig ( *NEW* Primary )

Intel X99 Rig (Officially Decommissioned, Dead CPU returned to Intel)

  • i7-8086K @ 5.1 GHz
  • Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master
  • Sapphire NITRO+ RX 6800 XT S.E + EKwb Quantum Vector Full Cover Waterblock
  • 32GB G.Skill TridentZ DDR4-3000 CL14 @ DDR-3400 custom CL15 timings
  • SanDisk 480 GB SSD + 1TB Samsung 860 EVO +  500GB Samsung 980 + 1TB WD SN750
  • EVGA SuperNOVA 850W P2 + Red/White CableMod Cables
  • Lian-Li O11 Dynamic EVO XL
  • Ekwb Custom loop + 2x EKwb Quantum Surface P360M Radiators
  • Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum + Corsair K70 (Red LED, anodized black, Cheery MX Browns)

AMD Ryzen Rig

  • AMD R7-5800X
  • Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro AC
  • 32GB (16GB X 2) Crucial Ballistix RGB DDR4-3600
  • Gigabyte Vision RTX 3060 Ti OC
  • EKwb D-RGB 360mm AIO
  • Intel 660p NVMe 1TB + Crucial MX500 1TB + WD Black 1TB HDD
  • EVGA P2 850W + White CableMod cables
  • Lian-Li LanCool II Mesh - White

Intel Z97 Rig (Decomissioned)

  • Intel i5-4690K 4.8 GHz
  • ASUS ROG Maximus VII Hero Z97
  • Sapphire Vapor-X HD 7950 EVGA GTX 1070 SC Black Edition ACX 3.0
  • 20 GB (8GB X 2 + 4GB X 1) Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 MHz
  • Corsair A50 air cooler  NZXT X61
  • Crucial MX500 1TB SSD + SanDisk Ultra II 240GB SSD + WD Caviar Black 1TB HDD + Kingston V300 120GB SSD [non-gimped version]
  • Antec New TruePower 550W EVGA G2 650W + White CableMod cables
  • Cooler Master HAF 912 White NZXT S340 Elite w/ white LED stips

AMD 990FX Rig (Decommissioned)

  • FX-8350 @ 4.8 / 4.9 GHz (given up on the 5.0 / 5.1 GHz attempt)
  • ASUS ROG Crosshair V Formula 990FX
  • 12 GB (4 GB X 3) G.Skill RipJawsX DDR3 @ 1866 MHz
  • Sapphire Vapor-X HD 7970 + Sapphire Dual-X HD 7970 in Crossfire  Sapphire NITRO R9-Fury in Crossfire *NONE*
  • Thermaltake Frio w/ Cooler Master JetFlo's in push-pull
  • Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD + Kingston V300 120GB SSD + WD Caviar Black 1TB HDD
  • Corsair TX850 (ver.1)
  • Cooler Master HAF 932

 

<> Electrical Engineer , B.Eng <>

<> Electronics & Computer Engineering Technologist (Diploma + Advanced Diploma) <>

<> Electronics Engineering Technician for the Canadian Department of National Defence <>

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