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Experienced Answers Needed. Rtx 2060 & ryzen 2600

Vinexkurupt

Hello so i recently ordered a pc from ironside and it comes with a 500w psu is that enough to run the Rtx 2060  ryzen 2600, with 16gb ddr4 and the msi pro-vdh MTB

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For this scenario, PCpartpicker is your greatest friend. PCpartpicker will allow you to list your parts and show how many watts in total they will draw from the wall.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/

 

For this scenario, PCpartpicker is your greatest friend. PCpartpicker will allow you to list your parts and show how many watts in total they will draw from the wall.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/

 

Always keep in mind though, it's always good to have an extra 100 watts of power. I usually go a little more extreme ( 200 watts ) but at least around 100w more than your PC draws from the wall at full load. Remember, your psu is regulated, meaning, it only draws what it needs so whatever reading PCPartpicker gives you will be nothing but an estimate of what your PC draws regularly.
According to PCpartpicker your PC will regularly draw around 236 watts. So your power supply is perfectly adequate and will suffice. You'll probably have even more room for overclocking your Ryzen processor.

My Rig: 

CPU: Intel i5 2500k 4 Cores, 4 Threads @ 4.5ghz ( asus uefi regulates BIOS and adjusts it, there is no manual option, so I can't get any higher than 4.5, but I theoretically should be able to get higher once I get a voltage "changeable" mobo

MOBO: Asus P8Z68 LE

RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 2133mhz ddr3 2x8 16GB

GPU: GTX 980 TI 150+ core, 100-150 ( I forgot )+ mem ( OC ) 

HDD: 500GB 3D MLC Samsung SSD ( soon ) + 2tb 7200rpm Seagate Constellation ES.2 SAS / LSI MegaRaid MR Raid/SAS Controller

CASE: Phanteks P350X

OS: Windows 10 64-bit / Void Linux 

PERIPHERALS: IBM Model M 1984, Logitech G703 Mouse, Logitech G502 Mouse, Philips SHP9500 w/ V-Moda Boom Pro hooked up to my Sony AMP ( forgot model name, to lazy to find out ) 

 

 

 

Laptop: Gateway P-7805u FX 

CPU: 2.26GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8400 2c/2t

RAM: 8GB DDR2 1066mhz sodimm 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce 9800M GTS

HDD: 320GB 7200rpm hard drive 2.5"

SSD: Kingston A400 250GB SSD

SCREEN: Glossy 16:9 1440x900

OS: Windows XP SP3 / Ubuntu 19.04

PERIPHERALSLogitech G Pro

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3 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

For this scenario, PCpartpicker is your greatest friend. PCpartpicker will allow you to list your parts and show how many watts in total they will draw from the wall.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/

all pcpp does is counting up tdp, which isn't really accurate. better than "psu calculators". but still not that good

 

checking reviews is better

 

but yeah, 500w is enough, tho i'm more curious to the model

 

label picture is fine too

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1 hour ago, LukeSavenije said:

all pcpp does is counting up tdp, which isn't really accurate. better than "psu calculators". but still not that good

 

checking reviews is better

 

but yeah, 500w is enough, tho i'm more curious to the model

 

label picture is fine too

        Ok first off, the TDP indicates how much a CPU, GPU, RAM or whatever will draw at maximum load or in general. So yes, your right, PCPP may not be the most accurate thing in the world but it IS the most safest. Because knowing the general add-up of all those parts TDP's will indicate how much wattage you'll need thus, allowing you to assume the perfect PSU for your system. That is all true, assuming you add around 100-200 watts to whatever your total add-up TDP is according to PCPP just for extra caution or if your going to do any overclocking. 

 

Also, not to be mean or anything... but what the fuck am I going to learn from reviews? I get it, reviewing power supplies, not a bad idea. But if you want a good PSU there's a much easier method. There are several reputable brands that you should only get for instance like Antec, Rosewill, Corsair, EVGA, Seasonic. Then, you want to make sure your PSU is 80+ certified which is very important and making sure your wattage is adequate and to find out that, well, I listed how to do that above. If your looking at a generic, substandard power supply that isn't 80+ certified and is dirt cheap. Just don't get it. Simple as that. You shouldn't be scowering reviews unless the brand looks reputable enough ( assuming it being 80+ and having decent wattage ) to justify buying it. Otherwise, just don't!

My Rig: 

CPU: Intel i5 2500k 4 Cores, 4 Threads @ 4.5ghz ( asus uefi regulates BIOS and adjusts it, there is no manual option, so I can't get any higher than 4.5, but I theoretically should be able to get higher once I get a voltage "changeable" mobo

MOBO: Asus P8Z68 LE

RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 2133mhz ddr3 2x8 16GB

GPU: GTX 980 TI 150+ core, 100-150 ( I forgot )+ mem ( OC ) 

HDD: 500GB 3D MLC Samsung SSD ( soon ) + 2tb 7200rpm Seagate Constellation ES.2 SAS / LSI MegaRaid MR Raid/SAS Controller

CASE: Phanteks P350X

OS: Windows 10 64-bit / Void Linux 

PERIPHERALS: IBM Model M 1984, Logitech G703 Mouse, Logitech G502 Mouse, Philips SHP9500 w/ V-Moda Boom Pro hooked up to my Sony AMP ( forgot model name, to lazy to find out ) 

 

 

 

Laptop: Gateway P-7805u FX 

CPU: 2.26GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8400 2c/2t

RAM: 8GB DDR2 1066mhz sodimm 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce 9800M GTS

HDD: 320GB 7200rpm hard drive 2.5"

SSD: Kingston A400 250GB SSD

SCREEN: Glossy 16:9 1440x900

OS: Windows XP SP3 / Ubuntu 19.04

PERIPHERALSLogitech G Pro

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7 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

        Ok first off, the TDP indicates how much a CPU, GPU, RAM or whatever will draw at maximum load or in general.

Not with intel cpus.

 

7 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Also, not to be mean or anything... but what the fuck am I going to learn from reviews? I get it, reviewing power supplies, not a bad idea. But if you want a good PSU there's a much easier method. There are 4 reputable brands that you should only get. And those are Antec, EVGA, Seasonic, and Corsair. That's literally it. Then, you want to make sure your PSU is 80+ certified and make sure your wattage is adequate and to find out that, well, I listed how to do that above. 

No..

Those companies also have some poor models, but @LukeSavenije will probably go into much more detail.

 

You should always read reviews, not go full fanboy!

I only see your reply if you @ me.

This reply/comment was generated by AI.

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7 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Ok first off, the TDP indicates how much a CPU, GPU, RAM or whatever will draw at maximum load or in general.

tell intel to rate their chips at 300 watts then (no joke... 9900k is rated at 95 watts, runs around 200 stock)

 

7 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

There are several reputable brands that you should only get for instance like Antec, Rosewill, Corsair, EVGA, Seasonic. Then, you want to make sure your PSU is 80+ certified which is very important and making sure your wattage is adequate and to find out that, well, I listed how to do that above. 

do i need to kill you? that's the most flawed way. I'll name some examples

 

cooler master elite (80+ certified): absolute bomb

Seasonic s12ii: (80+ bronze certified): 10 year old desigh

Corsair VS orange (80+ certified): lasts 3 years on a good day, considered close to a bomb

 

and 80+ says nothing about quality, just efficiency

 

i can literally build a psu that lasts 30 minutes, fries any component to it and it can still get an 80+ certification if it's efficient enough

 

every company has their good and bad models

 

and the funniest thing? only one of the companies you mentioned actually make PSUs, the others buy from OEMs

 

and with reviews from CPUs and GPUs you can see real life examples of how much it uses, where you can tweak your psu on

 

PSU reviews from good people like the mask, jonnyguru, aris or other reputable sources are necessary, not just for fun

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1 hour ago, Origami Cactus said:

No..

Those companies also have some poor models, but @LukeSavenije will probably go into much more detail.

First off, I updated my post, second off, obviously you're not going to buy some 450w bronze PSU for your i7 8700k and 1080 ti. Or just a plain junkie PSU from one of those companies. There known for making good general PSUs. That's literally all I said. 

 

1 hour ago, Origami Cactus said:

You should always read reviews, not go full fanboy!

Once more, you can get more information by simply looking at specifications of that PSU. Literally all you have to do is make sure you have a reputable brand with 80+ certification and a wattage count that will suffice. That's about it. 

My Rig: 

CPU: Intel i5 2500k 4 Cores, 4 Threads @ 4.5ghz ( asus uefi regulates BIOS and adjusts it, there is no manual option, so I can't get any higher than 4.5, but I theoretically should be able to get higher once I get a voltage "changeable" mobo

MOBO: Asus P8Z68 LE

RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 2133mhz ddr3 2x8 16GB

GPU: GTX 980 TI 150+ core, 100-150 ( I forgot )+ mem ( OC ) 

HDD: 500GB 3D MLC Samsung SSD ( soon ) + 2tb 7200rpm Seagate Constellation ES.2 SAS / LSI MegaRaid MR Raid/SAS Controller

CASE: Phanteks P350X

OS: Windows 10 64-bit / Void Linux 

PERIPHERALS: IBM Model M 1984, Logitech G703 Mouse, Logitech G502 Mouse, Philips SHP9500 w/ V-Moda Boom Pro hooked up to my Sony AMP ( forgot model name, to lazy to find out ) 

 

 

 

Laptop: Gateway P-7805u FX 

CPU: 2.26GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8400 2c/2t

RAM: 8GB DDR2 1066mhz sodimm 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce 9800M GTS

HDD: 320GB 7200rpm hard drive 2.5"

SSD: Kingston A400 250GB SSD

SCREEN: Glossy 16:9 1440x900

OS: Windows XP SP3 / Ubuntu 19.04

PERIPHERALSLogitech G Pro

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2 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

First off, I updated my post, second off, obviously you're not going to buy some 450w bronze PSU for your i7 8700k and 1080 ti

you could......... assuming its a high quality 450 watt bronze unit. like the cx450 (2017). that would run just fine no problem. 

3 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Once more, you can get more information by simply looking at specifications of that PSU. Literally all you have to do is make sure you have a reputable brand with 80+ certification and a wattage count that will suffice. That's about it. 

Seasonic s12ii: (80+ bronze certified)

  • reputable brand [check]
  • 80+ certification [check]
  • has ok specs [check]
  • has good enough wattage [check]

should you consider buying it? no, no you shouldnt. there are far worse examples than the s12ii. 

 

PSUs are far more than a rating and a wattage ammount. 

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Its enough. Although whenever someone I know orders a prebuilt I recommend replacing the psu. They are usually low quality and mustering 50 dollars for something keeping your parts dead or alive is a good idea.

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2 minutes ago, pokemoncrusher1 said:

Its enough. Although whenever someone I know orders a prebuilt I recommend replacing the psu. They are usually low quality and mustering 50 dollars for something keeping your parts dead or alive is a good idea.

also wrong, good companies like hp, dell and acer care about your system, and want it to last because otherwise they have to do too many rma's or lose their reputation as a good builder. A lot of them are just enough for what's in it, but they are actually decent units

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1 hour ago, LukeSavenije said:

do i need to kill you? that's the most flawed way. I'll name some examples

 

cooler master elite (80+ certified): absolute bomb

Seasonic s12ii: (80+ bronze certified): 10 year old desigh

Corsair VS orange (80+ certified): lasts 3 years on a good day, considered close to a bomb

I know there are bad PSUs, so let me be more specfic, don't get 80+ bronze or lower. And quite frankly, bronze isn't that good. 

 

1 hour ago, LukeSavenije said:

 

 i can literally build a psu that lasts 30 minutes, fries any component to it and it can still get an 80+ certification if it's efficient enough

Some 80+ psus may not be great. ( at all in certain circumstances ) but at the very least, there is a criteria so no actually. You can't do that, sorry. 

 

1 hour ago, LukeSavenije said:

 

and with reviews from CPUs and GPUs you can see real life examples of how much it uses, where you can tweak your psu on

I'm pretty sure every reviewer that ever reviewed an CX500 for instance would have the same PC as mine. Or yours, besides why would you even do that when you could on PCPP? It's just so much simpler. 

 

 

My Rig: 

CPU: Intel i5 2500k 4 Cores, 4 Threads @ 4.5ghz ( asus uefi regulates BIOS and adjusts it, there is no manual option, so I can't get any higher than 4.5, but I theoretically should be able to get higher once I get a voltage "changeable" mobo

MOBO: Asus P8Z68 LE

RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 2133mhz ddr3 2x8 16GB

GPU: GTX 980 TI 150+ core, 100-150 ( I forgot )+ mem ( OC ) 

HDD: 500GB 3D MLC Samsung SSD ( soon ) + 2tb 7200rpm Seagate Constellation ES.2 SAS / LSI MegaRaid MR Raid/SAS Controller

CASE: Phanteks P350X

OS: Windows 10 64-bit / Void Linux 

PERIPHERALS: IBM Model M 1984, Logitech G703 Mouse, Logitech G502 Mouse, Philips SHP9500 w/ V-Moda Boom Pro hooked up to my Sony AMP ( forgot model name, to lazy to find out ) 

 

 

 

Laptop: Gateway P-7805u FX 

CPU: 2.26GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8400 2c/2t

RAM: 8GB DDR2 1066mhz sodimm 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce 9800M GTS

HDD: 320GB 7200rpm hard drive 2.5"

SSD: Kingston A400 250GB SSD

SCREEN: Glossy 16:9 1440x900

OS: Windows XP SP3 / Ubuntu 19.04

PERIPHERALSLogitech G Pro

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1 hour ago, GoldenLag said:

Seasonic s12ii: (80+ bronze certified)

  • reputable brand [check]
  • 80+ certification [check]
  • has ok specs [check]
  • has good enough wattage [check]

should you consider buying it? no, no you shouldnt. there are far worse examples than the s12ii. 

 

PSUs are far more than a rating and a wattage ammount. 

Allow me to rephrase myself,
Don't buy anything under 80+ bronze. Also, the s12ii doesn't have good specs? It's old as shit. I thought this would be self explantatory but I suppose I will have to add it to my criteria. Don't buy old ass psu's. How's that? 

My Rig: 

CPU: Intel i5 2500k 4 Cores, 4 Threads @ 4.5ghz ( asus uefi regulates BIOS and adjusts it, there is no manual option, so I can't get any higher than 4.5, but I theoretically should be able to get higher once I get a voltage "changeable" mobo

MOBO: Asus P8Z68 LE

RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 2133mhz ddr3 2x8 16GB

GPU: GTX 980 TI 150+ core, 100-150 ( I forgot )+ mem ( OC ) 

HDD: 500GB 3D MLC Samsung SSD ( soon ) + 2tb 7200rpm Seagate Constellation ES.2 SAS / LSI MegaRaid MR Raid/SAS Controller

CASE: Phanteks P350X

OS: Windows 10 64-bit / Void Linux 

PERIPHERALS: IBM Model M 1984, Logitech G703 Mouse, Logitech G502 Mouse, Philips SHP9500 w/ V-Moda Boom Pro hooked up to my Sony AMP ( forgot model name, to lazy to find out ) 

 

 

 

Laptop: Gateway P-7805u FX 

CPU: 2.26GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8400 2c/2t

RAM: 8GB DDR2 1066mhz sodimm 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce 9800M GTS

HDD: 320GB 7200rpm hard drive 2.5"

SSD: Kingston A400 250GB SSD

SCREEN: Glossy 16:9 1440x900

OS: Windows XP SP3 / Ubuntu 19.04

PERIPHERALSLogitech G Pro

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1 minute ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

know there are bad PSUs, so let me be more specfic, don't get 80+ bronze or lower. And quite frankly, bronze isn't that good. 

ah, so i have to get on the higher level?

 

seasonic focus (whole line 80+ gold/platinum): ocp/opp problems

FSP Aurum 80+ gold/platinum: 5 volt and 12 volt regulated together, which isn't good to do with modern components

2 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

don't get 80+ bronze or lower

so my cx550m is faulty just because it almost hit 80+ silver?

 

3 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

I'm pretty sure every reviewer that ever reviewed an CX500 for instance would have the same PC as mine

a good reviewer has a couple thousands spent on testing hardware, not actual pc's for psu testing

 

80+ rating just tells efficiency, nothing more nothing less

 

but let's not clutter here, if you want to learn something about PSUs, hit me up on personal messager, because what you're saying is wrong, and i can bet you know nothing about what makes a psu important, let alone which one to buy

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1 hour ago, GoldenLag said:

you could......... assuming its a high quality 450 watt bronze unit. like the cx450 (2017). that would run just fine no problem. 

1 hour ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Lol, you obviously don't know how to pick PSUs then. I will always go at least 100-200 watts more than whatever PCPP tells me. And PCPP is telling me a rig with a 8700k and 1080 ti ( Not even including ram or the motherboard! ) is 350w. 

And since you have a Intel "k" processor you would most likely be doing overclocking and like I said before, that's not even including the darn motherboard and ram! Are you serious? So using a 450w ( especially a bronze unit ) is basically signing a death warrant for your probably over $1k system. 

My Rig: 

CPU: Intel i5 2500k 4 Cores, 4 Threads @ 4.5ghz ( asus uefi regulates BIOS and adjusts it, there is no manual option, so I can't get any higher than 4.5, but I theoretically should be able to get higher once I get a voltage "changeable" mobo

MOBO: Asus P8Z68 LE

RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 2133mhz ddr3 2x8 16GB

GPU: GTX 980 TI 150+ core, 100-150 ( I forgot )+ mem ( OC ) 

HDD: 500GB 3D MLC Samsung SSD ( soon ) + 2tb 7200rpm Seagate Constellation ES.2 SAS / LSI MegaRaid MR Raid/SAS Controller

CASE: Phanteks P350X

OS: Windows 10 64-bit / Void Linux 

PERIPHERALS: IBM Model M 1984, Logitech G703 Mouse, Logitech G502 Mouse, Philips SHP9500 w/ V-Moda Boom Pro hooked up to my Sony AMP ( forgot model name, to lazy to find out ) 

 

 

 

Laptop: Gateway P-7805u FX 

CPU: 2.26GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8400 2c/2t

RAM: 8GB DDR2 1066mhz sodimm 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce 9800M GTS

HDD: 320GB 7200rpm hard drive 2.5"

SSD: Kingston A400 250GB SSD

SCREEN: Glossy 16:9 1440x900

OS: Windows XP SP3 / Ubuntu 19.04

PERIPHERALSLogitech G Pro

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3 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

So using a 450w ( especially a bronze unit ) is basically signing a death warrant for your probably over $1k system. 

over power protection?

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1 hour ago, LukeSavenije said:

ah, so i have to get on the higher level?

 

seasonic focus (whole line 80+ gold/platinum): ocp/opp problems

If your going to sit here and tell me Seasonic Focus is bad. You obviously don't know what your talking about. Linus has used there PSUs in plenty of builds ( including personal builds for his office. ) 

1 hour ago, LukeSavenije said:

so my cx550m is faulty just because it almost hit 80+ silver?

I wouldn't recommend getting bronze or lower. Never said anything about it being faulty. Just wouldn't reccommend it. Like, at all. And getting a higher rating is better yeah. Because there's a higher criteria for the PSUs so it's alot less likely to be a piece of shit PSU.

My Rig: 

CPU: Intel i5 2500k 4 Cores, 4 Threads @ 4.5ghz ( asus uefi regulates BIOS and adjusts it, there is no manual option, so I can't get any higher than 4.5, but I theoretically should be able to get higher once I get a voltage "changeable" mobo

MOBO: Asus P8Z68 LE

RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 2133mhz ddr3 2x8 16GB

GPU: GTX 980 TI 150+ core, 100-150 ( I forgot )+ mem ( OC ) 

HDD: 500GB 3D MLC Samsung SSD ( soon ) + 2tb 7200rpm Seagate Constellation ES.2 SAS / LSI MegaRaid MR Raid/SAS Controller

CASE: Phanteks P350X

OS: Windows 10 64-bit / Void Linux 

PERIPHERALS: IBM Model M 1984, Logitech G703 Mouse, Logitech G502 Mouse, Philips SHP9500 w/ V-Moda Boom Pro hooked up to my Sony AMP ( forgot model name, to lazy to find out ) 

 

 

 

Laptop: Gateway P-7805u FX 

CPU: 2.26GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8400 2c/2t

RAM: 8GB DDR2 1066mhz sodimm 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce 9800M GTS

HDD: 320GB 7200rpm hard drive 2.5"

SSD: Kingston A400 250GB SSD

SCREEN: Glossy 16:9 1440x900

OS: Windows XP SP3 / Ubuntu 19.04

PERIPHERALSLogitech G Pro

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1 hour ago, LukeSavenije said:

over power protection?

Yes. It's always good to have extra. That is imminent regardless of what system you build. I gave you a system. You assigned it a 450w bronze unit smh. 

A 8700k and a 1080 TI. 

Let me repeat that, a 8700k and a 1080 TI! First off,  your going to overclock especially if your using a "k" processor then your going to ( because that would make absolutely no sense at all if you didn't. ) And even at stock clocks on your cpu and your gpu the wattage that system ispulling from the wall is 350w. With everything at stock, default presets. Out of the damn box. Holy balls. Christ almighty.

 

If your using a different rig then that might be understandable but a god damn i7 8700k and a 1080 TI. 350 watts in total. And that's not even including the motherboard or ram. Yeah... okay... sure. And while your at it, let's make that PSU barely even certified, bronze. 

My Rig: 

CPU: Intel i5 2500k 4 Cores, 4 Threads @ 4.5ghz ( asus uefi regulates BIOS and adjusts it, there is no manual option, so I can't get any higher than 4.5, but I theoretically should be able to get higher once I get a voltage "changeable" mobo

MOBO: Asus P8Z68 LE

RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 2133mhz ddr3 2x8 16GB

GPU: GTX 980 TI 150+ core, 100-150 ( I forgot )+ mem ( OC ) 

HDD: 500GB 3D MLC Samsung SSD ( soon ) + 2tb 7200rpm Seagate Constellation ES.2 SAS / LSI MegaRaid MR Raid/SAS Controller

CASE: Phanteks P350X

OS: Windows 10 64-bit / Void Linux 

PERIPHERALS: IBM Model M 1984, Logitech G703 Mouse, Logitech G502 Mouse, Philips SHP9500 w/ V-Moda Boom Pro hooked up to my Sony AMP ( forgot model name, to lazy to find out ) 

 

 

 

Laptop: Gateway P-7805u FX 

CPU: 2.26GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8400 2c/2t

RAM: 8GB DDR2 1066mhz sodimm 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce 9800M GTS

HDD: 320GB 7200rpm hard drive 2.5"

SSD: Kingston A400 250GB SSD

SCREEN: Glossy 16:9 1440x900

OS: Windows XP SP3 / Ubuntu 19.04

PERIPHERALSLogitech G Pro

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1 minute ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Yes. I gave you a system. You assigned it a 450w bronze unit smh. 

A 8700k and a 1080 TI. 

Let me repeat that, a 8700k and a 1080 TI! First off,  your going to overclock especially if your using a "k" processor then your going to ( because that would make absolutely no sense at all if you didn't. ) And even at stock clock and stock clock on your gpu and just average wattage that system is around 350w. With everything at stock, default presets. Out of the damn box. Holy balls. Christ almighty.

Just please stop, PM Luke, he knows a lot about psus, and can help you learn.

The specs aren't the only thing about psu, there are a lot of things you will only find in a review, for example the inner workings of the psu.

Here is another example. The EVGA G3 looks like a nice psu, but it is missing some important safety stuff, so i wouldn't pick that.

 

So how about you don't just buy based purely on the brand name, and do a few minutes worth of research? Or if you are really lazy, Luke has actually made a psu tier list: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1045610-new-psu-tier-list/

 

 

I only see your reply if you @ me.

This reply/comment was generated by AI.

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4 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Allow me to rephrase myself,
Don't buy anything under 80+ bronze. Also, the s12ii doesn't have good specs? It's old as shit. I thought this would be self explantatory but I suppose I will have to add it to my criteria. Don't buy old ass psu's. How's that? 

well........ its still sold as brand new with no indication of it being old....

 

also i can slap in the s12iii. though we are still waiting for reviews on that one, its not looking great, but we are waiting. 

1 minute ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Lol, you obviously don't know how to pick PSUs then. I will always go at least 100-200 watts more than whatever PCPP tells me. And PCPP is telling me a rig with a 8700k and 1080 ti ( Not even including ram or the motherboard! ) is 350w. 

i have some fair experience picking PSUs. a 8700k and 1080ti would peak around  400 watts under full peak powerdraw (using 9900k numbers and 1080ti powerdraw numbers. im being generous here ). the entire system that is. and that is peak, you will be hard pressed to get that powerdraw in real world scenarios. 

 

im saying you can, there would be no problem picking up a cx450 (2017) and running it with that kind of hardware

1 minute ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

If your going to sit here and tell me Seasonic Focus is bad. You obviously don't know what your talking about.

wait, you from tomshardware?

 

@LukeSavenije is one of the people who had been involved in the creation of the new PSU tierlist. and Seasonic focus isnt great, it has power protection issues that were fixed in January last year, but didnt fix it properly ending with a worse issue than it had to begin with. 

 

Seasonic has a good line of PSUs. they are called Prime. if you arent getting their top of the line, i would avoid them untill they have properly resolved their focus lineup and old stock has been cleared out. 

 

4 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

I wouldn't recommend getting bronze or lower

judging PSUs by their rating isnt the way to go about stuff. read reviews or use updated tierslist to get PSUs that dont have issues or are massivly outdated. there are good bronze PSUs aswell as bad Gold PSUs. no brand is clear of bad PSUs. 

5 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Because there's a higher criteria for the PSUs so it's alot less likely to be a piece of shit PSU.

less likely does not equal certain. one should go by rating or Price to get a good PSU. 

6 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Linus has used there PSUs in plenty of builds ( including personal builds for his office. ) 

yeah......... they only ship prime units to linus........ 

 

and you wont believe how many times youtubers have made PSU recommendations that have made PSU people facepalm. 

 

4 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Let me repeat that, a 8700k and a 1080 TI! First off,  your going to overclock especially if your using a "k" processor then your going to ( because that would make absolutely no sense at all if you didn't. )

you can get away with overclocking the 8700k on a good 450watt PSU assuming you dont go above 1.3 volts of power. under full combined powerbug load, you would be cutting it close in terms of powerdraw. 

6 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

350 watts in total.

actually, stock its closer to 400 watts under full combined powerbug peak load. hence me suggesting not to go more voltage than 1.3. 

 

have a short look. 

 

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59 minutes ago, Origami Cactus said:

Just please stop, PM Luke, he knows a lot about psus, and can help you learn.

The specs aren't the only thing about psu, there are a lot of things you will only find in a review, for example the inner workings of the psu.

Here is another example. The EVGA G3 looks like a nice psu, but it is missing some important safety stuff, so i wouldn't pick that.

 

So how about you don't just buy based purely on the brand name, and do a few minutes worth of research? Or if you are really lazy, Luke has actually made a psu tier list: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1045610-new-psu-tier-list/

 

Now your changing the subject. Wonderful. EVGA G3 isn't a bad PSU. Also, I LITERALLY MADE IT CLEAR and clarified it multiple times that the inner workings of a PSU is just as important. So apparently you didn't here me. Holy crap. It is important to note capacitors, transformers inside the PSU for instance but those have may be a thing of the past. They are no longer, literally every PSU is fitted with good inner workings. And good specs. ( high quality Japanese capacitors for instance ). Now, the most important thing to look for is 80+ certification ( anything above 80+ bronze is my recommendation ). I never said only to look for a good brand. But that is part of it. Not all of it. 

My Rig: 

CPU: Intel i5 2500k 4 Cores, 4 Threads @ 4.5ghz ( asus uefi regulates BIOS and adjusts it, there is no manual option, so I can't get any higher than 4.5, but I theoretically should be able to get higher once I get a voltage "changeable" mobo

MOBO: Asus P8Z68 LE

RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 2133mhz ddr3 2x8 16GB

GPU: GTX 980 TI 150+ core, 100-150 ( I forgot )+ mem ( OC ) 

HDD: 500GB 3D MLC Samsung SSD ( soon ) + 2tb 7200rpm Seagate Constellation ES.2 SAS / LSI MegaRaid MR Raid/SAS Controller

CASE: Phanteks P350X

OS: Windows 10 64-bit / Void Linux 

PERIPHERALS: IBM Model M 1984, Logitech G703 Mouse, Logitech G502 Mouse, Philips SHP9500 w/ V-Moda Boom Pro hooked up to my Sony AMP ( forgot model name, to lazy to find out ) 

 

 

 

Laptop: Gateway P-7805u FX 

CPU: 2.26GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8400 2c/2t

RAM: 8GB DDR2 1066mhz sodimm 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce 9800M GTS

HDD: 320GB 7200rpm hard drive 2.5"

SSD: Kingston A400 250GB SSD

SCREEN: Glossy 16:9 1440x900

OS: Windows XP SP3 / Ubuntu 19.04

PERIPHERALSLogitech G Pro

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1 minute ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

 

That is true, if you get a psu from a big company which is 80+ Gold it is pretty hard to get a bomb, they all will work.

 

I will stop commenting now, this wasn't the original purpose of this post at all, but IMO:

The more information, the better, so reading reviews can be beneficial when you have to make an informed choice.

That is all, have a great night.

I only see your reply if you @ me.

This reply/comment was generated by AI.

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1 hour ago, GoldenLag said:

i have some fair experience picking PSUs. a 8700k and 1080ti would peak around  400 watts under full peak powerdraw (using 9900k numbers and 1080ti powerdraw numbers. im being generous here ). the entire system that is. and that is peak, you will be hard pressed to get that powerdraw in real world scenarios. 

 

im saying you can, there would be no problem picking up a cx450 (2017) and running it with that kind of hardware

It's always good to have 100w - 200w of extra wattage. That is just something that should always come across you whenever you build a PSU. Listen, PSU's are not my forte, but I will tell you that if you think you can use a 450w bronze unit with a i7 8700k and a 1080 ti then start a poll and see how wrong you really just are. Honestly, that is

 

1 hour ago, GoldenLag said:

actually, stock its closer to 400 watts under full combined powerbug peak load. hence me suggesting not to go more voltage than 1.3. 

 

That that's even worse. LOL

 

1 hour ago, GoldenLag said:

and you wont believe how many times youtubers have made PSU recommendations that have made PSU people facepalm

Oh no, I believe you. But Linus is considered a little more professional? He is considered to be rather knowledgeable? There may be a couple flooks, but I'm pretty sure Linus at LEAST knows how to pick a good PSU. 

 

My Rig: 

CPU: Intel i5 2500k 4 Cores, 4 Threads @ 4.5ghz ( asus uefi regulates BIOS and adjusts it, there is no manual option, so I can't get any higher than 4.5, but I theoretically should be able to get higher once I get a voltage "changeable" mobo

MOBO: Asus P8Z68 LE

RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 2133mhz ddr3 2x8 16GB

GPU: GTX 980 TI 150+ core, 100-150 ( I forgot )+ mem ( OC ) 

HDD: 500GB 3D MLC Samsung SSD ( soon ) + 2tb 7200rpm Seagate Constellation ES.2 SAS / LSI MegaRaid MR Raid/SAS Controller

CASE: Phanteks P350X

OS: Windows 10 64-bit / Void Linux 

PERIPHERALS: IBM Model M 1984, Logitech G703 Mouse, Logitech G502 Mouse, Philips SHP9500 w/ V-Moda Boom Pro hooked up to my Sony AMP ( forgot model name, to lazy to find out ) 

 

 

 

Laptop: Gateway P-7805u FX 

CPU: 2.26GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8400 2c/2t

RAM: 8GB DDR2 1066mhz sodimm 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce 9800M GTS

HDD: 320GB 7200rpm hard drive 2.5"

SSD: Kingston A400 250GB SSD

SCREEN: Glossy 16:9 1440x900

OS: Windows XP SP3 / Ubuntu 19.04

PERIPHERALSLogitech G Pro

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1 minute ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Wonderful. EVGA G3 isn't a bad PSU.

it wines a lot and overall isnt great. 

1 minute ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Also, I LITERALLY MADE IT CLEAR and clarified it multiple times that the inner workings of a PSU is just as important.

then you would agree the G3 isnt great. and you would also like the PSU-tier-list as its based on the inner workings of a PSU and the performance of the PSUs. 

2 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

And good specs. ( high quality Japanese capacitors for instance ).

you know that there is just marketing jargin right? like yes youve got good capacitors from Japan. but if you are marketing the capacitors, you are probably hiding something else. 

3 minutes ago, MS-DOS Guy said:

Now, the most important thing to look for is 80+ certification ( anything above 80+ bronze is my recommendation ).

i would like to say its a start. but also not really. for the completely unitiated, sure. but when recommending PSUs?. no, recommend specific units.  but honestly, id start like any other product. look at reviews. 

 

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Fair enough, Origami Cactus.

My Rig: 

CPU: Intel i5 2500k 4 Cores, 4 Threads @ 4.5ghz ( asus uefi regulates BIOS and adjusts it, there is no manual option, so I can't get any higher than 4.5, but I theoretically should be able to get higher once I get a voltage "changeable" mobo

MOBO: Asus P8Z68 LE

RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 2133mhz ddr3 2x8 16GB

GPU: GTX 980 TI 150+ core, 100-150 ( I forgot )+ mem ( OC ) 

HDD: 500GB 3D MLC Samsung SSD ( soon ) + 2tb 7200rpm Seagate Constellation ES.2 SAS / LSI MegaRaid MR Raid/SAS Controller

CASE: Phanteks P350X

OS: Windows 10 64-bit / Void Linux 

PERIPHERALS: IBM Model M 1984, Logitech G703 Mouse, Logitech G502 Mouse, Philips SHP9500 w/ V-Moda Boom Pro hooked up to my Sony AMP ( forgot model name, to lazy to find out ) 

 

 

 

Laptop: Gateway P-7805u FX 

CPU: 2.26GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8400 2c/2t

RAM: 8GB DDR2 1066mhz sodimm 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce 9800M GTS

HDD: 320GB 7200rpm hard drive 2.5"

SSD: Kingston A400 250GB SSD

SCREEN: Glossy 16:9 1440x900

OS: Windows XP SP3 / Ubuntu 19.04

PERIPHERALSLogitech G Pro

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59 minutes ago, GoldenLag said:

it wines a lot

Coil whine is something that is subjective. Sometimes it's not even the PSUs fault. It may be the GPUs fault. ( Not to say it isn't the PSUs fault ever. ) 

 

1 hour ago, GoldenLag said:

then you would agree the G3 isnt great. and you would also like the PSU-tier-list as its based on the inner workings of a PSU and the performance of the PSUs. 

Then point out instances of flaws which raise red flags due to the insides of the G3. Because I can assure you, there is nothing. So if you want, I would appreciate proof. And don't just give me a schematic and say it's trash. I want some actual flaws. Because you can't just say that without proof.

 

 

My Rig: 

CPU: Intel i5 2500k 4 Cores, 4 Threads @ 4.5ghz ( asus uefi regulates BIOS and adjusts it, there is no manual option, so I can't get any higher than 4.5, but I theoretically should be able to get higher once I get a voltage "changeable" mobo

MOBO: Asus P8Z68 LE

RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 2133mhz ddr3 2x8 16GB

GPU: GTX 980 TI 150+ core, 100-150 ( I forgot )+ mem ( OC ) 

HDD: 500GB 3D MLC Samsung SSD ( soon ) + 2tb 7200rpm Seagate Constellation ES.2 SAS / LSI MegaRaid MR Raid/SAS Controller

CASE: Phanteks P350X

OS: Windows 10 64-bit / Void Linux 

PERIPHERALS: IBM Model M 1984, Logitech G703 Mouse, Logitech G502 Mouse, Philips SHP9500 w/ V-Moda Boom Pro hooked up to my Sony AMP ( forgot model name, to lazy to find out ) 

 

 

 

Laptop: Gateway P-7805u FX 

CPU: 2.26GHz Intel Core 2 Duo P8400 2c/2t

RAM: 8GB DDR2 1066mhz sodimm 

GPU: Nvidia GeForce 9800M GTS

HDD: 320GB 7200rpm hard drive 2.5"

SSD: Kingston A400 250GB SSD

SCREEN: Glossy 16:9 1440x900

OS: Windows XP SP3 / Ubuntu 19.04

PERIPHERALSLogitech G Pro

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