MY plan for a 2600 $650 gaming rig.... advice pls.

[xxEMOxx]

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor	$164.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard	ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard	$79.99 @ Amazon
Memory	G.Skill - Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory	$89.99 @ Newegg
Storage	Kingston - UV500 240 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive	$44.99 @ Newegg
Storage	Seagate - BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive	Purchased For $0.00
Video Card	XFX - Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED Video Card	$189.99 @ Amazon
Case	Cooler Master - MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case	$39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply	Thermaltake - Smart 600 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply	$38.29 @ Amazon
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$648.23
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-18 18:08 EST-0500

 

 

The 1TB seagate, I have as an extra so I am going to just throw that in for a friend, I am tempted to also skimp on the MOBO, and get the ASrock Promontory for like $65 so I can possible get a 2600X and use the spire HS unit to overclock to 4.2 or so. 

 

Any advice, suggestions, or constructive criticism appreciated.  Also I am trying to avoid mail in rebates unless its like free games or the like.  I.E. bonuses not cash back!

 

[paddy-stone]

Looks OK, I would personally change the PSU though, but that's me, I don't skimp on the PSU, you need it to provide stable/clean power to your system. I'd be looking at the $80 area approx.

[paddy-stone]

This would be my pick ATM  https://pcpartpicker.com/product/64cMnQ/seasonic-focus-plus-gold-750w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-750fx

It's overkill for what you need, but I prefer to buy once and have plenty of upgrade options for the rest of my hardware, and have a decent warranty on it.

[xxEMOxx]

ok so i have a cx600 PSU out of my old i5-3570k that ran a r265 gpu.... those had way more power draw then this system, do you think that would work for now?  I can actually save money on the bottom line if that psu would work.

[paddy-stone]

Oh, and what's the point of getting the 2600x if you're gonna OC anyway? you'd be better off putting any spare cash you have towards a better cooler... the cooler master masterliquid 240 lite is a nice cooler for the money. Yes, that should be OK, it's not the wattage that I had a problem with in the build though, it's the quality of the components...  hang on, let me check the tier list for the cx600. Also, if you quote me, I get notified, if not I might miss that you replied.

 

[edit] or the bequiet dark rock 4 for an air cooler if you prefer them?

[xxEMOxx]

3 minutes ago, paddy-stone said:

Oh, and what's the point of getting the 2600x if you're gonna OC anyway? you'd be better off putting any spare cash you have towards a better cooler... the cooler master masterliquid 240 lite is a nice cooler for the money. Yes, that should be OK, it's not the wattage that I had a problem with in the build though, it's the quality of the components...  hang on, let me check the tier list for the cx600. Also, if you quote me, I get notified, if not I might miss that you replied.

 

[edit] or the bequiet dark rock 4 for an air cooler if you prefer them?

So for a cooler I was hoping I could run a TX3 I have that has been sitting around NOS but apparently I cant get a kit for the am4 socket.  So I was looking at a AIO like a 120 lite, there is a H60 locally for like $40.   But does reusing my psu, and shifting the money to the cooler better then pocketing the $40 for now?  ( mebbe towards a zen 2 )

 

Thank you for the help.

[paddy-stone]

Just now, xxEMOxx said:

So for a cooler I was hoping I could run a TX3 I have that has been sitting around NOS but apparently I cant get a kit for the am4 socket.  So I was looking at a AIO like a 120 lite, there is a H60 locally for like $40.   But does reusing my psu, and shifting the money to the cooler better then pocketing the $40 for now?  ( mebbe towards a zen 2 )

 

Thank you for the help.

IMO there's no point in small AIO coolers... 240 or bigger. Iactually have the one I suggested and it's a VERY competent cooler. My 1700 OCed to 3900Mhz sits at around 55C max when stressed, and around 30-35 when idling, which for me is still browsing, playing music, sharing on plex server and so on. They are a little over $50 I think https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/9gRFf7/cooler-master-masterliquid-lite-240-667-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-mlw-d24m-a20pw-r1

 

Don't misunderstand, the wraith coolers are good... but not sure they are up to where you want to OC it to is all... mine topped out at around 3700, and was hitting mid 80s IIRC... was long ago now. So I'd either lower my expectations and stick with the wraith, or get a half decent air cooler, or an AIO.

Oh, and I'd leave the choice of mobo to sticking with the asrock b450 personally too.

[xxEMOxx]

3 minutes ago, paddy-stone said:

IMO there's no point in small AIO coolers... 240 or bigger. Iactually have the one I suggested and it's a VERY competent cooler. My 1700 OCed to 3900Mhz sits at around 55C max when stressed, and around 30-35 when idling, which for me is still browsing, playing music, sharing on plex server and so on. They are a little over $50 I think https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/9gRFf7/cooler-master-masterliquid-lite-240-667-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-mlw-d24m-a20pw-r1

 

Don't misunderstand, the wraith coolers are good... but not sure they are up to where you want to OC it to is all... mine topped out at around 3700, and was hitting mid 80s IIRC... was long ago now. So I'd either lower my expectations and stick with the wraith, or get a half decent air cooler, or an AIO.

Oh, and I'd leave the choice of mobo to sticking with the asrock b450 personally too.

So if i stick with the stock cooler, can I run the 3.9 boost clock cont.?  And if so, at what workload?  Also if I get say a Hyper 212 how much do I realistically gain?

[paddy-stone]

I can't see anything on your list I would want to compromise on, somewhere you could save some money... so if you must, use the cx600, but I'd definitely get an air or AIO cooler to get a decent OC... but you COULD do that after you have tried the included wraith cooler, you don't NEED it right away, so you could see how you get on with it and what sort of OC you can get.

[paddy-stone]

Just now, xxEMOxx said:

So if i stick with the stock cooler, can I run the 3.9 boost clock cont.?  And if so, at what workload?  Also if I get say a Hyper 212 how much do I realistically gain?

Nope, hyper 212 isn't good enough IMO.. as for the boost clock and so on, you'd just have to try it and see, not all silicon is created equal... and also the cooler and PSU can make a difference as to what you get out of it.

[xxEMOxx]

1 minute ago, paddy-stone said:

Nope, hyper 212 isn't good enough IMO.. as for the boost clock and so on, you'd just have to try it and see, not all silicon is created equal... and also the cooler and PSU can make a difference as to what you get out of it.

Ok so for me as it stands, I am going to START with the IN-BOX UNIT and hang onto a little bit of change by using an existing CX600 PSU.  Then if i need to step up in clock to achieve what my expectations of the machine are, I will decide which direction to apply those funds.  IF NEEDED.

 

Thank you for the help!

[paddy-stone]

Just now, xxEMOxx said:

Ok so for me as it stands, I am going to START with the IN-BOX UNIT and hang onto a little bit of change by using an existing CX600 PSU.  Then if i need to step up in clock to achieve what my expectations of the machine are, I will decide which direction to apply those funds.  IF NEEDED.

 

Thank you for the help!

No problem, you're welcome

[xxEMOxx]

47 minutes ago, paddy-stone said:

No problem, you're welcome

Updated build list:

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor	$164.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard	ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard	$79.99 @ Amazon
Memory	G.Skill - Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory	$89.99 @ Newegg
Storage	Kingston - UV500 240 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive	$44.99 @ Newegg
Storage	Seagate - BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive	Purchased For $0.00
Video Card	XFX - Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED Video Card	$189.99 @ Amazon
Case	Cooler Master - MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case	$39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply	Corsair - Builder 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply	Purchased For $0.00
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$609.94
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-18 20:00 EST-0500

 

 

Going to run for a bit "stock" see how it comes along then step up cooling AS NEEDED.

[paddy-stone]

14 hours ago, xxEMOxx said:

Updated build list:

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor	$164.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard	ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard	$79.99 @ Amazon
Memory	G.Skill - Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory	$89.99 @ Newegg
Storage	Kingston - UV500 240 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive	$44.99 @ Newegg
Storage	Seagate - BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive	Purchased For $0.00
Video Card	XFX - Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED Video Card	$189.99 @ Amazon
Case	Cooler Master - MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case	$39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply	Corsair - Builder 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply	Purchased For $0.00
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$609.94
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-18 20:00 EST-0500

 

 

Going to run for a bit "stock" see how it comes along then step up cooling AS NEEDED.

Yep, that should be fine... you should be able to get a little OC out of the stock cooler IMO. Enjoy

 

[xxEMOxx]

1 hour ago, paddy-stone said:

Yep, that should be fine... you should be able to get a little OC out of the stock cooler IMO. Enjoy

 

So I looked into the darkrock 4 problem being I heard support for that cooler in the STATES is difficult to receive support for.

 

Also Does boost speed on Ryzen essential equal a factory overclock? 

[paddy-stone]

5 hours ago, xxEMOxx said:

So I looked into the darkrock 4 problem being I heard support for that cooler in the STATES is difficult to receive support for.

 

Also Does boost speed on Ryzen essential equal a factory overclock? 

No, the boost is basically when the CPU can provide more "speed" on one or more cores, depending on the technology used. Personally I like to manually OC my CPU so that I can enter a maximum Voltage pretty much, it does go a "bit" over at times because of a thing called line line calibration, but it's not bad.

IMO I would work on a manual overclock solution, but it's up to you... there is a LOT of reading to do to understand all of the things that are happening, but there are a lot of resources out there if you want to look into it. With precision boost and XFR, it's doing the work for you pretty much to get the best OC dependent on the cooler you have... to a point. with a manual overclock you can most of the time get a better result IMO, and it's an all core overclock rather than one or more cores only.. so if you have other things going on at the same time they aren;'t frequency locked to the base clock for example, but can also go upto the maximum speed you have dialed in on your OC at the same time. That is a very laymans (sp?) way of me explaining it as I see it though, so again if you really want to know this stuff, read up on it, is my advice. Even though I have worked with and built computer for a long time, probably longer than you've been on the Earth, doesn't mean I know everything or would ever claim to for that matter... but what I mean is, I understand enough to get by with what I intend to use it for generally. I don't have the time or patience to read up about everything that interests me unfortunately, and I have a LOT of interests, so I pick my "battles" as it were. With most of this computer stuff, I can for the most part just try stuff and see what works.. within reason. If I mess up, that's on me and I try and fix that mistake if I can - if not it's still a learning experience. So if I'm about to try something I haven't before, I will try it on something older if I can, to limit the damage and costs if I make a mistake that can't be fixed. I am lucky in that regard as I have a fair amount of older computer parts and full computers too... I'm not trying to scare you, I hope that's not what you're taking from this... I am just saying limit your exposure if you can when trying something new. Read up about what you can, it doesn't have to be massively in-depth, just understand the basics and then gradually increase your knowledge and/or testing - people that try to skip steps will be the ones that mess up generally. Take your time with things, and TBH there are a LOT more safeguards these days. DON'T whatever you do go too big with voltages, that CAN and will kill CPUs. There is a safe maximum for most CPUs, find what most reputable people call "safe" and if you want to keep that CPU for a long time like 5 years + stay under that amount by a healthy margin is my advice.

I hope what I said make sense? sorry for the WALL of text, just started writing and it got away from me, lol

[xxEMOxx]

4 hours ago, paddy-stone said:

No, the boost is basically when the CPU can provide more "speed" on one or more cores, depending on the technology used. Personally I like to manually OC my CPU so that I can enter a maximum Voltage pretty much, it does go a "bit" over at times because of a thing called line line calibration, but it's not bad.

IMO I would work on a manual overclock solution, but it's up to you... there is a LOT of reading to do to understand all of the things that are happening, but there are a lot of resources out there if you want to look into it. With precision boost and XFR, it's doing the work for you pretty much to get the best OC dependent on the cooler you have... to a point. with a manual overclock you can most of the time get a better result IMO, and it's an all core overclock rather than one or more cores only.. so if you have other things going on at the same time they aren;'t frequency locked to the base clock for example, but can also go upto the maximum speed you have dialed in on your OC at the same time. That is a very laymans (sp?) way of me explaining it as I see it though, so again if you really want to know this stuff, read up on it, is my advice. Even though I have worked with and built computer for a long time, probably longer than you've been on the Earth, doesn't mean I know everything or would ever claim to for that matter... but what I mean is, I understand enough to get by with what I intend to use it for generally. I don't have the time or patience to read up about everything that interests me unfortunately, and I have a LOT of interests, so I pick my "battles" as it were. With most of this computer stuff, I can for the most part just try stuff and see what works.. within reason. If I mess up, that's on me and I try and fix that mistake if I can - if not it's still a learning experience. So if I'm about to try something I haven't before, I will try it on something older if I can, to limit the damage and costs if I make a mistake that can't be fixed. I am lucky in that regard as I have a fair amount of older computer parts and full computers too... I'm not trying to scare you, I hope that's not what you're taking from this... I am just saying limit your exposure if you can when trying something new. Read up about what you can, it doesn't have to be massively in-depth, just understand the basics and then gradually increase your knowledge and/or testing - people that try to skip steps will be the ones that mess up generally. Take your time with things, and TBH there are a LOT more safeguards these days. DON'T whatever you do go too big with voltages, that CAN and will kill CPUs. There is a safe maximum for most CPUs, find what most reputable people call "safe" and if you want to keep that CPU for a long time like 5 years + stay under that amount by a healthy margin is my advice.

I hope what I said make sense? sorry for the WALL of text, just started writing and it got away from me, lol

No I actually appreciate the info in regards to the difference in boost and overclocking, and the fact it will work across multiple cores.

 

To be honest, this isnt my first or even 5th go around, my first build ever was amd k6 500mhz if i remember correctly....... that was when my 10gb and playing Ultima Online was like AMAZING.  LOL  Then a few P2 and P3's then I moved to an OC'd 3200+  you know back in the day when if you didnt attach the cooler properly to the actual cpu die, stuff could die and fast...... Which is why I was happy to see that there was a "lid" when I finally built my i5 3570k 5-6 years ago, but my z75 board ram slots died, and truth be told its time for something new, so my 2600 is it, but the build here was spec and being assembled for a friend, so OC might be unneed, although it has me tempted to oc my personal 2600.  ( I bought 2 since amazon had em for 150 usd )

[paddy-stone]

11 hours ago, xxEMOxx said:

No I actually appreciate the info in regards to the difference in boost and overclocking, and the fact it will work across multiple cores.

 

To be honest, this isnt my first or even 5th go around, my first build ever was amd k6 500mhz if i remember correctly....... that was when my 10gb and playing Ultima Online was like AMAZING.  LOL  Then a few P2 and P3's then I moved to an OC'd 3200+  you know back in the day when if you didnt attach the cooler properly to the actual cpu die, stuff could die and fast...... Which is why I was happy to see that there was a "lid" when I finally built my i5 3570k 5-6 years ago, but my z75 board ram slots died, and truth be told its time for something new, so my 2600 is it, but the build here was spec and being assembled for a friend, so OC might be unneed, although it has me tempted to oc my personal 2600.  ( I bought 2 since amazon had em for 150 usd )

Yeah, I agree.. I started out with a pentium 90 circa 1994/95, and upgraded it to a 166Mhz cirix CPU IIRC? and Oced it too... think I had like 4MB ram and a 200MB HDD when I bought it, bloody expensive too at around £1200, and that's with no sound card, cd-rom etc.. had to buy those separately too, for like another £200. I would not go back to that way of doing things, like waiting for a loong time for pretty much anything... even if the world suddenly became a dystopia and that's all that would function now, lol

 

I would definitely OC the 2600, you could easily get a 200-300Mhz increase I think... it depends on what your use case is as to whether that's "worth it" or not really... for me it's always worth it as I often use compute intensive tasks that benefit from that "extra" speed to do tasks... do bear in mind depending on the OC it can increase your power draw significantly though, but only when it's at that higher clock speed. If your CPU is set to downclock when the higher speed isn't needed it shouldn't be a bad thing necessarily, as you'd only see the higher power draw when doing things that benefit from a higher clock speed.

With my 1700 my idle power draw averages out at about 35W, and when doing intensive tasks I use around 125W or so average, with a peak of 180W or thereabouts IIRC. If I am doing a mix of tasks throughout the day, some with higher power draw and mostly idle, I still get a low average... my intensive tasks are usually not the main usage for my PC however. Your 2600 though should be better in a sense as it has a higher base clock, and boost clock while still being rated at around the same power draw.