Jump to content

Pump sound issues

So I've just installed my first water cooling loop and it's loud as heck, I assume it because my pump is stuck at high, its PWM but I can't find any software that will allow me to fix it and my bios won't let me alter the curve either. I've tried Speedfan but my mobo isn't listed as supported, I've tried installing ASUS fan controlling software but there is something wrong with the installation and it never installs properly. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

if it sound kinda grindy, dont worry, thats micro bubbles circulating through the system, they will eventualy work their way out and the system will quiet down.

CPU: Intel i7 3930k w/OC & EK Supremacy EVO Block | Motherboard: Asus P9x79 Pro  | RAM: G.Skill 4x4 1866 CL9 | PSU: Seasonic Platinum 1000w Corsair RM 750w Gold (2021)|

VDU: Panasonic 42" Plasma | GPU: Gigabyte 1080ti Gaming OC & Barrow Block (RIP)...GTX 980ti | Sound: Asus Xonar D2X - Z5500 -FiiO X3K DAP/DAC - ATH-M50S | Case: Phantek Enthoo Primo White |

Storage: Samsung 850 Pro 1TB SSD + WD Blue 1TB SSD | Cooling: XSPC D5 Photon 270 Res & Pump | 2x XSPC AX240 White Rads | NexXxos Monsta 80x240 Rad P/P | NF-A12x25 fans |

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

If its your pump - let the bubbles work out...or you have bubbles in your loop that need let out...is your reservoir or radiator higher than the pump so that air gets trapped NOT in the pump housing?

 

If its your fans, and you have no easy way - get yourself a multifan fan controller.

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, SolarNova said:

if it sound kinda grindy, dont worry, thats micro bubbles circulating through the system, they will eventualy work their way out and the system will quiet down.

 

4 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

If its your pump - let the bubbles work out...or you have bubbles in your loop that need let out...is your reservoir or radiator higher than the pump so that air gets trapped NOT in the pump housing?

 

If its your fans, and you have no easy way - get yourself a multifan fan controller.

20190108_084943.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

i'm having a similar issue; when my pump starts when i boot my pc, it is nice and quiet, but after about 10-15 mins it starts to make a rattleing sound. anyone know why?

Have a nice day:)

 

PC:    CPU: Core i7 4790k   I   GPU: MSI GTX 1070Ti Armor   I   COOLING: Custom water loop (cpu and gpu)  I  RAM: 16Gb DDR3 1600MHz   I   SSD: Samsung 850 evo 500Gb   I   HDD: WD blue 1TB, Hitatchi 2TB, Generic 1TB   I   PSU: EVGA 500w

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, Drew Learns Tech said:

 

 

16 minutes ago, Ic3d said:

i'm having a similar issue; when my pump starts when i boot my pc, it is nice and quiet, but after about 10-15 mins it starts to make a rattleing sound. anyone know why?

 

Once you confirmed no leaks OP (and new guy) I would then take my computer, unplug cables (not loop lol just whats keeping it attached to the wall and peripherals lol)everything and move it in every direction thinkable to try to get air bubbles to move out of anywhere in the loop to end up higher in the loop.  Im not as sure with custom loops but this works with AIO's and...its basically the same thing.

 

It could be they are just trapped in the pump housing and need to be moved on up to the East Side.

 

EDIT - OP I cant watch videos at work sorry, link blocked

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Tristerin said:

 

 

Once you confirmed no leaks OP (and new guy) I would then take my computer, unplug cables (not loop lol just whats keeping it attached to the wall and peripherals lol)everything and move it in every direction thinkable to try to get air bubbles to move out of anywhere in the loop to end up higher in the loop.  Im not as sure with custom loops but this works with AIO's and...its basically the same thing.

You'd wanna be pretty damn sure you sealed everything up right on your loop so it can handle being upended though. And depending on how you tilt it you could actually feed more bubbles into the system. 

 

OP, how long has it been running for? Looks like you have a DDC pump, they are a loud on max AFAIK (I have a D5, they're bigger but they're made to run at max RPM and make barely any noise whatsoever). But regardless of pump type, you should let it run for at least a few hours straight at max RPM. I turned my pump on and off a few times to try and pulse most of the bigger bubbles out, then left it running for hours and it's clear now, haven't seen any bubbles anywhere. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

im sorry for barging in on this thread but i dont want to start a new one while this is alive, ive tried moving it about to get rid of bubbles and it makes no difference and when i look inside the pump there are no bummber spinning here is a video:

 

 

Have a nice day:)

 

PC:    CPU: Core i7 4790k   I   GPU: MSI GTX 1070Ti Armor   I   COOLING: Custom water loop (cpu and gpu)  I  RAM: 16Gb DDR3 1600MHz   I   SSD: Samsung 850 evo 500Gb   I   HDD: WD blue 1TB, Hitatchi 2TB, Generic 1TB   I   PSU: EVGA 500w

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

You'd wanna be pretty damn sure you sealed everything up right on your loop so it can handle being upended though. And depending on how you tilt it you could actually feed more bubbles into the system. 

 

Ive never custom looped - curious why anything would be able to leak or move around regardless of orientation? Are they not properly sealed?  Are they not properly secured?  Asking cause Im real curious (I see why you would want to make sure you have it sealed and can upend it, that all makes sense but do people actually...not do these things?)

 

How could air be introduced into the system?  Or do you mean air bubbles currently trapped somewhere not causing issues can now be allowed into the loop to cause issues?

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

Ive never custom looped - curious why anything would be able to leak or move around regardless of orientation? Are they not properly sealed?  Are they not properly secured?  Asking cause Im real curious (I see why you would want to make sure you have it sealed and can upend it, that all makes sense but do people actually...not do these things?)

 

How could air be introduced into the system?  Or do you mean air bubbles currently trapped somewhere not causing issues can now be allowed into the loop to cause issues?

You can never 100% get all the bubbles out of the system AFAIK, they'll work their way into an air pocket at the top of your reservoir and if you upend the system then you're feeding that air pocket directly into the pump and back into the system. And they should be properly sealed, but if you forgot to tighten something down and you put your PC in a weird orientation and it comes loose, that could be a problem. And again, you risk sending the bubbles from wherever they've settled out of the flow of coolant right back into it. 

 

There's no need for drastic measures anyways unless you've ran it overnight or for a day or two and there's still bubble noise. By that time they should all work themselves out and into that pocket at the top of the res. OP has another advantage that he doesn't have a clear block. I have a clear block on the GPU and monoblock on the CPU/mobo, so even though after only a couple minutes of running bubble noise was gone, there were still bubbles I could see and that's annoying. After about a day of running they were all gone, blocks are crystal clear now with no sign of bubbles. IDK about tubing and such since I'm using the same black rubber EK ZMT stuff. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Zando Bob said:

You can never 100% get all the bubbles out of the system AFAIK, they'll work their way into an air pocket at the top of your reservoir and if you upend the system then you're feeding that air pocket directly into the pump and back into the system. And they should be properly sealed, but if you forgot to tighten something down and you put your PC in a weird orientation and it comes loose, that could be a problem. And again, you risk sending the bubbles from wherever they've settled out of the flow of coolant right back into it. 

 

There's no need for drastic measures anyways unless you've ran it overnight or for a day or two and there's still bubble noise. By that time they should all work themselves out and into that pocket at the top of the res. OP has another advantage that he doesn't have a clear block. I have a clear block on the GPU and monoblock on the CPU/mobo, so even though after only a couple minutes of running bubble noise was gone, there were still bubbles I could see and that's annoying. After about a day of running they were all gone, blocks are crystal clear now with no sign of bubbles. IDK about tubing and such since I'm using the same black rubber EK ZMT stuff. 

Thank you so much for the response.  Makes total sense.

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

If the noise/vibration continues after a few days, then it might simply be resonance. Vibration from the pump goign into the case making it louder. Consider mounting the pump on some dampending material to reduce vibration.

 

Open the side panel and grab hold of the pump firmly with ur hand whilst its making the noise, if the noise dies down, its resonance.

 

I personaly use a D5 on its max setting (5), and it used to be loud untill the air was worked out of the system, i also mounted it on some stiff foam between my L bracket and the case which reduced the amount of vibration transfered to the case considerably.

CPU: Intel i7 3930k w/OC & EK Supremacy EVO Block | Motherboard: Asus P9x79 Pro  | RAM: G.Skill 4x4 1866 CL9 | PSU: Seasonic Platinum 1000w Corsair RM 750w Gold (2021)|

VDU: Panasonic 42" Plasma | GPU: Gigabyte 1080ti Gaming OC & Barrow Block (RIP)...GTX 980ti | Sound: Asus Xonar D2X - Z5500 -FiiO X3K DAP/DAC - ATH-M50S | Case: Phantek Enthoo Primo White |

Storage: Samsung 850 Pro 1TB SSD + WD Blue 1TB SSD | Cooling: XSPC D5 Photon 270 Res & Pump | 2x XSPC AX240 White Rads | NexXxos Monsta 80x240 Rad P/P | NF-A12x25 fans |

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Ic3d said:

 

 

This one sounds like vibrations passing through the case, can you see if unmounting the pump helps the sittuation? If so, you need to get some rubber mounts to dampen the vibration

 

4 hours ago, Drew Learns Tech said:

 

 

Can't quite tell if this is an SPC or DDC pump, but this one sounds like defacto pump noise that you'll have to try to address by slowing down the pump (if temps allow) or other brute force methods like sound isolation and/or replacing the pump.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, SolarNova said:

If the noise/vibration continues after a few days, then it might simply be resonance. Vibration from the pump goign into the case making it louder. Consider mounting the pump on some dampending material to reduce vibration.

 

Open the side panel and grab hold of the pump firmly with ur hand whilst its making the noise, if the noise dies down, its resonance.

 

I personaly use a D5 on its max setting (5), and it used to be loud untill the air was worked out of the system, i also mounted it on some stiff foam between my L bracket and the case which reduced the amount of vibration transfered to the case considerably.

 

3 hours ago, For Science! said:

This one sounds like vibrations passing through the case, can you see if unmounting the pump helps the sittuation? If so, you need to get some rubber mounts to dampen the vibration

 

Can't quite tell if this is an SPC or DDC pump, but this one sounds like defacto pump noise that you'll have to try to address by slowing down the pump (if temps allow) or other brute force methods like sound isolation and/or replacing the pump.

 

6 hours ago, Zando Bob said:

You'd wanna be pretty damn sure you sealed everything up right on your loop so it can handle being upended though. And depending on how you tilt it you could actually feed more bubbles into the system. 

 

OP, how long has it been running for? Looks like you have a DDC pump, they are a loud on max AFAIK (I have a D5, they're bigger but they're made to run at max RPM and make barely any noise whatsoever). But regardless of pump type, you should let it run for at least a few hours straight at max RPM. I turned my pump on and off a few times to try and pulse most of the bigger bubbles out, then left it running for hours and it's clear now, haven't seen any bubbles anywhere. 

So I'm not 100% sure it the pump anymore. It might just be the fans on the rad. I'm about to try a test with them unplugged to see if that is the issue. It hasn't been running that long and even when I did a leak test yesterday the pump was fairly quiet even at max.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, Drew Learns Tech said:

 

 

So I'm not 100% sure it the pump anymore. It might just be the fans on the rad. I'm about to try a test with them unplugged to see if that is the issue. It hasn't been running that long and even when I did a leak test yesterday the pump was fairly quiet even at max.

I have gotten some improvement from unplugging the fans and plugging it back in. It is a DDC pump and it runs about 3000ish RPM from everything I've seen so far. At 3000 it is still fairly loud in my opinion and does not improve when I hold in my hand when checking for resonance.

 

EDIT:

Also, I have noticed some fluctuating temps from about 33C to 40ish C so that might be an indication of microbubbles?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×