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@TheProfosist @CM Norumu (to prove I own it )

Hi community, I will start working at a laptop service center and my job is to diagnosed and replace broken parts which is easy to do for the most part. But my question is especially for those who work in the industry, what is your like core tips on disassembling a laptop since every laptop is gonna different can you give an advice on the subject and perhaps share your experience with it like the good practice, what you should do and avoid, etc because while i do have 3 years of experience on repairing computer, laptop isn't really my Forte and when I get asked about what I asked on this thread, I had a hard time trying to come up with the answer.

I've been trying to clean my PC since I haven't gotten around to cleaning it since I got it, which was around 4 years ago. Yesterday I cleaned it of dust and I tried to change the thermal paste of my GPU and CPU, since I saw that they were running a little hotter than i'd like (As of writing this, whilst I only have the browser opened, my GPU is at 34C and my CPU is at 40C). I removed my GPU from the case, flipped it over and tried to unscrew it, but couldn't, it was like if the screws were on the other side, where the fans were, which I don't think is what's happening here. I might just be stupid and be using a wrong type of screwdriver, but I just picked up a regular phillips screwdriver I had lying around, maybe I need a smaller one? The CPU is easy to apply thermal paste to, it's the cooler that's hard to take off. It has some metal bars that are really hard to get rid of, due to my case being quite cramped and my wires always getting in the way. I managed to remove one but the other one was right against the top cover of the case. I tried to flip the case on it's back and have the cooler point straight up, I thought maybe it'd give me some leverage and I'd be able to remove it, but no. I then tried unscrewing some screws around the CPU, which I thought were holding the cooler and heatsink (I think that's what the thing the cooler was inside is called) but I got scared that maybe I'll unscrew something I shouldn't and stopped. I've attached a picture of my cooler that I got off the internet, I don't know the specific model it is, but that's what it looks like. Hopefully I can get some help, my PC definitely needs it, haha.

Would you help me? I wanna know how to get both RAM and HDD out safely... and where's the CPU supposed to be? I'll really appreciate all your advices. By the way, I don't care about warranty ...

So I got myself an MSI GL72 the other day after being forced to deal with an 2nd gen i3 for 5 years. I wanted to upgrade its SSD (I have the very slim 250 GB one), so I set out to open it. As it turns out, I was unable to completely remove the bottom door. The rightmost part of it (when upside down) is very sturdy in comparison to the left side. I had to pull out the CD drive to be able to start removing the clips that hold the back door in place, but I could not finish removing it, being too scared of basically ending up destroying the case. I could not find a proper disassembly guide - my google skills are probably off - and due to me not having my tools with me, I did not try further to open it by force. I'd appreciate if anyone has any tips, or even has that laptop and managed to pry it open. Regards,

I've been searching around for anyone who seems to have taken apart the new(ish) Corsair ML Series Fans. I was unable to find any definitive answers on how to do it exactly, so I took the initiative and tried it myself. I was partially successful in the fact that I was able to disassemble it, however in putting it back together, it doesn't spin as well as it should and when I plugged it into one of my motherboards to test how it worked, it didn't spin at all. I've laid out the steps that I did to disassemble the fan's below in case anyone wants to re-attempt it and try to fix where I went wrong or just for anyone who is curious. I figured since I couldn't find anyone who had done it, I would put it out there so others could find it. I have attached pictures as my description might not be clear enough by itself. The first thing that I did was remove the stickers from the front and the back. This didn't really give me any ideas on how to continue, so I probed around the holes on the back of the fan hoping to figure out how it was fastened in the frame. I noticed a white tab inside one of the openings, so I toyed around with it until it finally broke off. Next, I turned my attention to the area where the cable was plugged into and noticed a smaller white tab underneath the frame in this location as well. I couldn't quite reach it with any of the tools that I had around me. Not making any progress, I grudgingly broke out my Dremel to see if I could carefully remove some of the back frame to open up the back of the fan to try and get a better angle or open up something new for me to fiddle with. Unfortunately, I got a little carried away and ended up removing the fan from the case entirely. However, the PCB was still connected and so was a small part of the frame. So I continued to cut away the frame piece until I was able to remove the PCB. It turns out that there are four white tabs located around the center of the fan to hold in the PCB. I then started shaving down the center of the frame located on the back of the fan. I was able to remove the "back plate" of the fan frame and saw the usual pin on the back of the fan. Realizing that this was what I was looking for, I began to attempt to remove the fan from the coil. I eventually ended up using a small socket (it was included in my 64 Bit Driver iFixit kit) that was able to fit over the pin and into the hole. I used a hammer to tap the socket further onto the pin. I'm not sure what sort of fastener holds the fan onto the coil (or vice versa), but it took my quite a while to get to the point where I could pull the fan off just like any other SP or AP Corsair fan. Now at this point, the fan is basically useless except to see how it was put together. So I used all the knowledge that I gained with this fan and started on a second, hoping to disassemble it without completely destroying it. The first thing that I did with this second fan was try and drill out the center of the back to gain access to the fan pin. Drilling it out was easy, but there was lots of debris that was still attached to the walls of the drill hole, so I had to scrape this off to get a clean look at the pin. Then I was able to hammer in the socket onto the pin and pull the fan off as stated above. This time, there was only a small hole in the back of the fan that is easily covered up if someone wanted to put a sticker over it. (ignore the other smaller holes in the picture. They were from an earlier experiment when I thought that the white tabs were the key to disassembly.) Now that I had gotten the fan off of the frame with little damage actually done, I was curious to see if I could re-assemble it to fully functional. I popped the fan back into the frame, and it stayed. However, the fan did not spin as loosely as it had before. I plugged it into one of my motherboards and tried to test it out, but it didn't spin at all. I'm thinking that maybe during my attempts to free the fan from the case, I messed up the PCB and killed the fan, but I'm not sure. So there it is. How to disassemble the Corsair ML Series Fans. Maybe somebody can use this and expand upon it and figure out where I went wrong to get the fan to work at the end of all of this.

I've got an idea when I was scrapping HDD's for magnets. I made a rotating coaster from it, and I'd like to share with you! Tell me what you think!

Another question here! I'm planning on getting two of these fans hooked up to my case but i loathe the way the fan blades look. Semi-translucent and all around yuck. So I've decided to spray-paint the fan blades in matte black. So the question here is; are the fan blades detachable? Edit: Link to product http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/xtraflo-120-slim/

Does anyone know where i could find a guide on how to disassemble this card ??? Card: Gigabyte Windforce GTX 980 TI 3x OC Edition Reason: I'm looking into buying one and as it is an old card i thought a good dust and a coat of Kryonaught would do it some good

So I noticed that my controller is full of gamer crust from long hours of use and that there was dirt caked in especially around the nooks and crannies of both L2 R2 and L1 R1. Is there a way that I can take apart my controller without breaking anything? I want to remove the triggers and bumpers for cleaning.

How do I disconnect the battery connection on thr Gigabyte Aero 15? A picture of the connection is attached.

I’m trying to make a cheap/good-ish pc for my mom, while making it look as good as humanly possible (My mom wants something that appears better than it is.(of course it also has to function decently and a daily driver or gaming rig.)) So my question is.... (there will be pictures for reference - How do I remove and reattach the front transparent panel of my (I previously owned it) segotep K7 case, (It is super glued onto another surface behind it) this is mainly because I don’t want to spray paint parts of this panel. - I am also trying to give the case a new colour scheme, but how do I sand away old paint in hard to reach places such as my HDD bay, my case fan grates, etc. I’m asking as I want to repaint every surface in my moms case. - should drill some holes and another grate to add 2 140mm fans on top of my case? The case has no PSU shroud, support for only 2 120mm and 1 80mm fan, f all back panel space, no hole for a 8pin cpu cable, support for 1 hdd and 2 ssd and it’s a cheap Chinese case made in China. Why did I get it? Because this was the first case I ever bought and never used due to the reasons above and more.

Hey community! I just had a question, do you guys know which gpu manufacturers create gpu coolers that are easy to remove and install again? I have had the problem with two gpus already where after 3 or more years of use the thermal paste (that often isnt great to begin with) really starts being a bottleneck even without heave overclocks. On My current gpu (Aorus 1080 ti) I ouldnt even remove and install the cooler again properly because there are several tiny cables that are too short that you cant manually plug them in unless you have small fingers and special skills, so i kinda had to leave with it. Even without overclocks on a longer gaming session in a 25°C room with the fans at max speed and the gpu clocking to around 1900mhz the temperature of the card is 85°C, when it was new it was around 78°C. I know that temperatures dont matter for durability, but i cant even get a proper overclock done at these temps. I know the explanation isnt necessary but i wanted to state it nonetheless. So from your experience which gpu coolers are easy to remove and install again in your experience? Are AIO watercooled gpus and the reference cooled gpus easier to install? thanks for the help and yours sincerely, 45HardBall

I haven't seen any. But before i begin my google search i thought i would ask the community. Anybody taken appart an AIO block to see what sort of design they are using to shed heat into the water? I mean we all look at our custom blocks, some more sexy than others, and all the company's trying to one up each other in fin design, water flow direction, restriction, placement of inlet/outlet, (if you really care that is) and then we got our tops that provide more sexy, or performance, or nothing comparatively. So have you see an exposed AIO base plate?

Hi everyone. Is it possible to remove the top panel of an H200i? I want to pack it into a suitcase and trying to make it as small as possible. Thanks in advance for any help!

Has anyone been able to replace the thermal paste for the CPU and GPU on an Acer Swift 3 i5-8250U/MX150? I haven't been able to find any success stories, although I have definitely found plenty of posts complaining about the thermal paste. I don't see why it wouldn't be possible, but it would be nice to have a bit more confirmation that it is. Related question: if you have replaced the thermal paste, were you able to find a disassembly video? I haven't been able to find one for my specific laptop (SF314-52G-55WQ) that was in English. Although the ones I have found can show me what is being done, it would be nice to also be told what is being done. At the very least, if there is a resource for finding disassembly information, it would be really helpful if anyone could share it. Thanks in advanced for any replies, and I hope you have a nice day

Currently, I've had my hp-r201tx for about two years. I've wanted to reapply its thermal paste and clean its fans manually, however, I have not found any guides online on this particular laptop. I have tried to open it, but I stopped when the keyboard face wasn't opening "with minimal force" as guides recommend. Should I continue to open it by myself, go to a professional, or leave it as it is?

So I'm going back to Norway for the summer, and since I'm taking a flight, I can't take too many things with me. I plan on leaving the larger things like my desktop, and the sub here for the summer, however since I will be taking my drivers test after coming back to Canada after the summer, it would be beneficial for me to take my G27 with me and practise using the h shifter over the summer. The issue is that with the wheel on the main housing, it is too tall to fit in my suitcase. I'm aware you can disassemble it fairly easily by removing the front hex screws on the image below, but would there be any possibility for it to get uncalbrated (being off center) Once re assembled?

I have a junky ass Apevia PSU that I never should have bought. Forgot to return it in time, and am now stuck with it. It's a total piece, but it has one really awesome thing that I want out of it....the PSU fan. It is a blue lighted fan, and I think it would look amazing in my computer. I digress. I have this power supply. I want the fan out of it. I know power supplies have capacitors in them capable of holding quite a lot of power, for a very long period of time. How could I safely remove the fan from it, without risk of zapping myself into oblivion? I want to add, I don't care what kind of condition the rest of the power supply ends up in, as it will just be recycled after I get the power supply out. Any advice, ideas?

So, for the most part of my life I have been around, and inside of computers, and have been familiarized with them. But I have always felt specifically inclined to not want to take apart laptops for a very specific fear of health concern. Now, I'm not saying it's the good people over in china that make me weary, but it definitely doesn't contribute to motivating me to take them apart. I have always been weary of products that come from china, due to their "competitive" pricing, and don't want to point any fingers *cough* FOXCONN *cough*, but I think we have all heard some type of tech horror story from china. Before I fall off the subject I'm trying to make, I just wanted to ask some professionals on what your stance is on the safety of disassembling a laptop is. Of course, this is in the case of a person who knows computers well, and knows the laws of electricity. Specifically, and almost most importantly, with no protective gloves, because you know, american consumerism making me too lazy to remember to buy some. This question surfaced because of the multiple times that I have pulled apart a laptop, messed around, reassembled it, and my hands itched, or felt strange and raised a suspicion to this. I would appreciate any feedback I can get on this subject, as I can't seem to find any information about the health safety of laptops in general anywhere. By the way, I have an HP G1 215, by which this post is powered.

We killed it. We took it apart. What a sad day, but as they say, the parts must go on :'( ... Parts List Kingston 32GB DDR4 ECC RAM (x8) Amazon: http://geni.us/3N2B Kingston KC400 1TB Business SSD (x8) Amazon: http://geni.us/3c6w Lime Technology unRAID Server Pro Software Manufacturer Link: http://lime-technology.com/ Caselabs Mercury S8 Amazon: n/a Manufacturer Direct: http://bit.ly/1P8UvW3 Acer Predator X34 21:9 Gaming Monitor (x7) Amazon: http://geni.us/32xr Intel Xeon E5 2697 V3 (x2) Amazon: http://geni.us/1nya ASUS Z10PE-D8 WS Amazon: http://geni.us/wov AMD R9 Nano (x7) Amazon: http://geni.us/Ubr EVGA T2 1600W Amazon: http://geni.us/3ad1 Cablemod Custom Cables for PSU Manufacturer Link: http://bit.ly/1NYnrCz Water Cooling Parts CPU blocks - EK Supremacy Evo Radiators - EK Coolstream XE 360 GPU Blocks - EK R9 Nano GPU Connector - Custom 7-way version of FC Terminal Pump/Reservoir - EK Xres 140 Fittings - EK Advanced Compression Fittings Tubing - Primochill Primoflex Black/Orange

So I bought this monitor from a yard sale <$10> and it works well, but the problem that wasn't so apparent when I placed it into the back of my car is that the front panel buttons are either stuck or damaged. The monitor menu will random toggle itself with no apparent cause; it could go for a few hours of use without popping up once, or it could toggle itself again and again until I rage quit Left 4 Dead 2 out of frustration of seeing that menu. I also get random popups of "DDC/CI Enabled" or " ' ' Disabled" on random occasion when this occurs. But onto the main topic. I was wondering if anyone had any kind of spec sheet, solutions, or advice to taking apart the monitor so I could reach and clean the front panel buttons and then piece it back together. Scouring Google has yielded nothing more than an online user's manual, and apparently nobody has had any kind of internal issue with this monitor that made them take it apart. If anyone has any idea how to dismantle it and piece it back together, I would be very appreciative. There are no screws on the monitor itself and it's held into place by numerous clips along the frame. Below is a link to the specific monitor that I have for pictures. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824005315 Thank you for your time.

Here we go B) ... The reason for this disassembly is that my mic boom is loose and keeps on dropping every time I tilt my head forward. Also, I have not seen a proper disassembly guide anywhere. What you will need: 1) Any thin flat head 2) T6 Star head 3) 2mm Phillips head Step 1: Remove the earpads. (So much fluff stuck onto my earpad :wacko:) Step 2: Pry away the dirt cover. Take it slow, no need to rush it. Step 3: Time to remove some screws! There are 4 screws located under the dirt cover that you have removed, unscrew them and be careful not to pull the cover out too far, as the speaker is mounted onto it and has wires going to a circuit board. Step 4: There is ONE screw located on the right side of the blue ring that separates the board from the speaker. Unscrew it and remove the ring. Step 5 (For the mic drop issue): After removing the blue ring, the screw that hold the mic in place is revealed, tighten the screw and you should be done! It's as simple as that

Most of it is up there. I would like to swap out the thermal paste, see if the processor is BGA, and get a data doubler kit to run a couple of SSDs in RAID 0. Also, I don't want trolls bickering about Apple. It's just plain stupid. For reference, it is a mid 2011 model, which is the 1st Unibody model that came without a built in SuperDrive. It looks like this:

So I was thinking maybe it's a good idea to try and remove the bottom panel of my laptop and remove some dust properly for cooler temps. I have never done anything like this before so I have just been looking online for a guide on how to do this for my specific laptop, a Packard Bell EasyNote TS11HR. What I want to do is remove as little as possible. As I said we're pushing my comfort zone here, so my dream scenario is to just remove the bottom plastic shell by removing the screws and take it off without having to disconnect any wires, ram, drives or anything. However, the only reference guide I could find is the video below. Problem is he is removing everything so I don't know if I can do what I described above. Furthermore at the 6 minute mark he takes out the motherboard, which reveals what to me seems like a metal "cape" that forces you to dig into the laptop through the keyboard from the front instead of doing what I described. All of a sudden what should have been a simple procedure to remove some dust became a forced full disassembly. Can anyone confirm this for me and give me some advice? Thanks! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZcgywmIQvk&list=WL4iuC1iNXmaCcVbr5bxi7TJ6KjJrapBlN I can never remember how to put the video directly in the post...