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Showing results for tags 'device'.
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I was looking at input devices and noticed there is a field that reports what keys are available on the device(when applicable). However I have been unable to figure out how to use the hex number given to tell me what keys it has. It says it's stored as a bit map, but I've been unable to find anywhere the map of values. This article is helpful and explains how it works, but it's for another field: https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/74903/explain-ev-in-proc-bus-input-devices-data I tried googling it to no avail, I can't find any documentation on it, and even reading through some of the source code I've been unable to find a way to understand the hex bit map. Granted I don't know C, nor do I have a deep understanding of the intricacies of linux, so it's possible even likely that I've missed something, but I don't know where else to go. Does anyone know how I can find the map of values or how I can decode the value given? Specifically this: B: KEY=20000 200 20 0 0 0 0 500f 2100002 3803078 f900d401 feffffdf ffefffff ffffffff fffffffe Thanks for any pointers or help! -
Hi Guys, So im creating a new Device Configuraiton Profile for the New Edge browser, we currently have a chrome profile in place which ill be mirroring for Edge and one of the settings within that profile is called "Allow pages to send synchronous XHR requests during page dismissal" Now my quesition isnt a technical question, thankfully its just a general one about the setting. It states when you look on it underneath the description that: "This setting is temporary and will be removed in a future release" Purely just out of curioisty, can anyone found any date it may become end of life? As it may be somthing that i need to look into. I cant find anything myself. Would be greatly appreciatted. Thanks! -
I had this motherboard for about a year now and never had this problem. But every time I plug in a device like my oculus quest, switch, or phone it will charge it very slowly. For an example right now if I plug in my phone which is at 4% battery life it says it will take around 32 hours for it to get to full. Data transfer speeds seem fine, and other devices like my microphone appears to be working the same. Things I have tried: tried using 3.0 ports and 2.0 3 different cords, which all work fine w/ a wall out let. back IO and front IO. Turned off "allow computer to turn off device" in device manager. my wifi card: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084JPFKQ5/ref=emc_b_5_t uses a usb port on the motherboard to have Bluetooth support, i unplugged that. unplugged devices Mother board: https://www.newegg.com/msi-b450m-pro-m2-max/p/N82E16813144271?Item=N82E16813144271 psu: https://www.newegg.com/corsair-cx-series-cx750-cp-9020123-na-750w/p/N82E16817139199 Any ideas on how to fix it will be GREATLY appreciated
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I need a Thunderbolt Expansion Card for my desktop. I haver the: ASUS ROG Strix Z490-G GAMING (WI-FI) Any suggestions
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Hello, I'm new to this forum so I apologize if this is posted in the wrong section. A while ago I installed Linux Ubuntu on dual boot with my windows 10. Everything worked fine, but yesterday I think I created a new partition or renamed one and today when I turned on my computer I got this error: now I'm not a complete tech noob, I tried getting some help online and it didn't work. Here's what I tried: -checking discs with ls command and then trying to set a new one with set boot and set prefix commands -I made a windows 10 bootable USB drive and booted the automatic repair -I tried running a command in CMD, forgot the exact name, it was supposed to repair the booting sequence I'll try to respond to every comment asap as I need my PC to work for tomorrow.
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so... the story starts like this... We moved to a new apartment, and the original router (a tp link 8690, which I think is a China exclusive?) was struggling as the interference from neighbouring wifis are too strong (I'm in China, okay?). So we got another router, a Huawei A2 pro, and we then found out(the hard way) that it is slightly better than the first one, but I only have around 60mbs in my room (via wifi), so we dropped the old router into the setup, using the bridging facility on the tplink, which works (as I understand it) by connecting to the main network, and just sending all of the things that are accessed via this router to the Huawei, kind of like a middleman. Then, when I was just trying to do some port forwarding for freenas, I couldn't find the ips for both the tplink nor the devices connected to it. sooo. . . any suggestions?
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Hi there, I have an led light strip plugged into my computer and I use it to light my face during livestreaming/recording. I would really like it if there was a way I could turn the light on and off without just unplugging it. There's not an on/off switch on the strip so I was hoping there was either something in Windows or an external app that could control a specific USB port. If you know of anything like that or possibly can think of another solution that'd be great! Thanks!
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Hello to all members here, i've just subscribed to this group because i have an idea of a device i couldn't find online, i am very insterested in VR simracing (i bought a very cheap G27) but also i don't have the money to spend on a 700USD HTC vive pro, and even that still has low resolution. i've read online that VR will look great once we have 4k resolution per eye (plus 120hz), which means we'll need at least two more generations of GPU's. i have a 29" widescreen monitor with 2560x1080 resolution and 75HZ, it looks good while playing Assetto Corsa and similar racing games. what i want is a device that could be attached to my head with gyroscopes and accelerometers that would track my head movements and translate them into camera movements in game so i will have the "vive" and feel of VR, plus a window to look around till i have run out of screen (of course i wont be able to look behind me) for sim racing i only need to reach each side view mirrors of the car, and that would be perfect for my use. and also cheaper since it is just a device with those components and connected to the PC, it could even be a phone programmed for that same use (and connected with a cable to have minimum latency), i am sure it looses the immersion of having a VR Headset with screen wherever you look, plus the added depth of the dual glasses creating stereoscopic 3D and so on, resolution is my biggest trade off and how much they cost. does anyone know the existence of such device? or should i have to start a kickstarter project?
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Hi everyone! I've digging in the forum for posts like this and all of them where almost a year old, and as the "helper" suggested, here I am posting a new one. I've bought a new pc with the following components: CPU: i3 7100 MOBO: gigabyte GA-H270-HD3 SSD: kingston SSDnow v300 120gb PSU: EVGA supernova G3 550W 80+G modular RAM: hyperX fury 16gb 2133 MHz ddr4 GPU: gigabyte gtx 1050ti OC 4gb I made a windows 10 bootable USB device with the microsoft tool and installed W10 on the SSD, which went fine, but when It rebooted at the end of the installation W10 woulndt boot. It shows a blue screen with the "inaccessible_boot_device" code. Heres what I've tryed so far: - Reinstalling W10. - Using other sata port. - Windows "boot repairing tool". - Disabling the other boot options in the BIOS (Since It shows me 2 boot options [with only the ssd plugged] "windows 10 boot manager-2 or something like that, and "kingston v300 120gb") - Booting with all the pheripherals unplugged - Rewritting the cmos And I'm pretty sure Ive tryed more options, but I cant remember right now... What else can I try? :'( Thank you all for those who has read the whole post and are here willing to help! Trully desperate, Maxinfamily P.D: I have an HDD at home, but Im not there right now... anyway Ive thought I can install W10 on it and if it boots I'll try to reinstall w10 on the SSD from there...
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Hey guys, I wanted to make a usb device to have bootable Android 6, or Android 7 if possible. I have done some searching on Google, but I couldn't really find much for what I wanted to do. Does anyone have a link to a good tutorial I can follow, or can someone explain it here? EDIT: I want it to run on-top of Windows 10, so I don't have to restart my pc in order to switch between Win10 and Android. Thanks in advance. -
So i'm getting constant connect and disconnect sounds like a USB peripheral. I've temporarily fixed it by turning of the sound in the device connections section but would love to know if its a widespread issue or a personal issue. Incase you are wondering, I have a Blackwidow and Deathadder chroma. Thanks for the help.
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Hey there guys, need assistance trying to figure out this issue I'm having with my network. Lately anti virus has popped up with alerts of malicious network activity that it had been blocking, when i logged into my router i noticed 20+ unknown network devices attached to my network via ethernet, i restarted my router, turned on my mac filter, and only had my PC, NAS and phone mac on the filter, blocking everything else and waited to see if any other activity continued, i woke up this morning, and noticed these unknown network devices connected again, detected by my antivirus and somehow bypassed the mac filter. I'd like to consider myself pretty experienced with PC's, but this isn't an issue I've had before. using a Linksys EA6500 with a 2TB Segate Central 2TB NAS with genuine windows 10 with the latest version ESET Smart Security. Ran scans of both the PC and network, and i cannot find any sort of malware, and i haven't downloaded anything malicious, I'm very confused.
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Friend started having some issues connecting to the internet and tried the online solutions, but no luck. I suggested we try reinstalling the network drivers but came across a few things.. Firstly, when we went to uninstall the ethernet driver it said "Confirm device uninstall:" Killer E2200 Gigabit ethernet controller" and there was on option to ALSO delete the driver software...I thought that was what we were doing? Secondly, what are all these other things in the pic? Finally, how do we know what stuff we need when installing the new driver because as you can see, it's not very descriptive.. Thanks!
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Buy Tablets on Amazon: http://geni.us/eP7k Tablets generally aren't good, but just how bad can they be?? We found one for $37, and it's about as bad as they get...
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So i have been using HD tune for a while as my bench marking tool and even though i am not sure how the block size affects the bench marking, based on the basic size of a sector which is a block i use 64 Kbs , ( of which i assume is the same as test size in crystal disk mark ) any ways if you could help me understand that , it would be great , in any case Hd tune gives the rough values of transfer to the system bus but recently i have gotten a ssd and i use Samsung magician and i also have been using Crystal disk mark but these two seem to benchmark the actual disk meaning the transfer rates of the actual drive. so quite confused by this , i get how Hd tune works, but magician and crystal disk are tad bit more confusing , do they use the drive controllers to benchmark? Another thing is representation of data so Transfer rates on Hd tune i assume is read speeds and access times as latency but ssds based on julia's episode have latency of 2 ms and well my benchmark says 0.1 ms so not sure whats wrong there and in hd tune burst rate seems to be as it says the read speeds if the drive is accessed quite suddenly but in hd tune it detects it as being only 20mbs faster than a 850 evo, which seems strange as well. in Crystal disk mark there is different types of sequential benchmarking which i am not sure what they mean, usually any benchmark for drives on this forum use crystal disk, but i have no idea how to use it, the first set of results seem to match the ones i get from magician so i just use those values when i am comparing drives with crystal disk mark one last thing is when i use magician to benchmark a hdd it just gives terrible results, and i know it shouldnt be used for a hdd, i assume its coded for ssds , but i would think if hd tune can do both then the principle should be the same or i am not doing benchmarking right. so in conclusion what does block/test size do and how does it affect hdds and ssd? differences betweens hd tune and crystal disk mark and which is better ?
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raid 10 Windows ten won't boot with a RAID device in the PC
chatter_box posted a topic in Storage Devices
So a while ago, I bought four enterprise WD drives in order to create a RAID 10 device for my mass media etc. Unfortunately, I have figured out that if I turn on RAID mode in the UEFI and create my RAID volume, my PC just tries to load windows but gives me INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE Error. I thought my Windows Anniversary update would solve this (Version 1607), but it didn't. In the UEFI, I have made it so my SSD is the only boot device allowed and Number #1 Priority. I have tried so many troubleshooting steps and I really need this RAID array as I am running out of space on my 300gb hdd. If any of you can provide suggestions or some form of feedback please do. And finally, don't criticise me on my RAID array or any other system part, I just really need help and to know what to do. You can look on the profile page for my system specs. Thanks! -
i put my xeon 771 chip in my 775 motherboard with the tape thing and it worked but i cant install windows it says press f1 to continue or f2 for setup *bios* when i choose my boot device say cdrom or usb which ever windows is installed to i get boot device not found this is on a vostro 220s 775 motherboard with 4gb of ram and a xeon x5450 cpu -
TL:DR - My computer is telling me Reboot and select proper boot device, It shows it in the bios but it will not load. I have reset the bios. I tried to look up a solution online it said change the sata mode from AHCI to IDE, but in my bios it only shows AHCI. I'm not sure what is wrong. I just recently built a pc for my wife, I built it all and was still waiting on the cpu, so I decided to put my Intel Core I7 6700k to start installing and making sure everything was running fine, was running good for a weekend no issues, once I put the other cpu in it would randomly crash doing almost nothing. I did stress tests on it all temps were normal never crashed when doing them. It would just randomly crash. CPU - Intel Core I5-6600k Motherboard - Msi - B250 PC Mate ATX Memory - Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 8GB Storage - Western Digital 1TB GPU - MSI Geforce GTX 1060 3GB PSU - 500W 80+ Bronze
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I had seen some trackers for kids, dogs etc. But, I want to know is there any small tracker that I can place into the car and see my car location on the map while shopping in the market. I want to eradicate the chances of car theft. If anyone can provide some sort of information then it can help me a lot. Thanks!
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So my WD Elements external hard drive can't be seen on my PC. When I plug it in I can hear the fan running, the little LED light, lights up, but I go into explorer and it's not there. I go check the hidden icons tray and nothing. I went into Device manager and Disk management and its in neither. However when I plug it into my laptop, it sometimes get detected. During the time that it does I'm able to use it like an average drive. Then I plugged it into my mom's Macbook and it gets detected instantly and everytime too. I've plugged it in several times and each time, instant detection. Same with my father's Macbook and same with my brother's Windows laptop. Does anyone know what the problem might be? I thought it was drivers but I can't find any drivers for this drive. Can anyone help?
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Buy GPD Win on Amazon: http://geni.us/ZLVL Is this tiny Windows PC the true future of gaming? Only time shall tell...
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I'm planning on buying a Wii U so I can play the backlog off Wii and Wii U games then I haven't had the chance when I was younger (also GameCube). I would also like the option to take screenshots from inside the games while I'm playing. I know that there's some weird way through sharing it through some social media sites. But that's really slow, and you have to leave the game for every screenshot you wan't to take. I found a device on amazon that looks to have the functionality that I'm interested in, but I wanted to ask here first. Maybe you guys know a better/cheaper way. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ZWVSLW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_r4-sDbVFHS0PW What I need it to be able to do: +Possibility to take a screenshot +And a button to trigger this from couch distance +As cheap as possible -I'm not interested in capturing video and taking screenshots afterwards on my PC (I could do the same thing from youtube let's plays, but I don't wan't to waste my time with that).
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Hey guys, I want to run a server at home and want to connect to it from somewhere else, that's why I'd like you to help me how to create a static IP only for this one computer. Thanks in advance!
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So, I recently bought a PS4 Pro and I'd like to be able to use my PC speakers, wich are plugged in via audio jack on my PC. Since the PS4 only has an Optical port, I'm wondering what kind of audio hub I should buy so I can easily switch between my PC and PS4 audio. So I'm basically looking for something that can plug my speaker's jack and split it between optical and jack and just choose the channel. Thank you for your help!
