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Hello, From the past few days I am facing High mains voltage in my area 250V+ (Normal is 230V 50Hz). So I got a Voltage stabilizer/AVR to use with my ups (Its an APC UPS that doesn't have AVR even though it advertised that it had). The shitty UPS just outputs whatever it gets on mains, when mains hits 260V it outputs 260V without trimming it. Now the thing with the AVR is that its high cutoff is 250V after which it engages AVR and rapidly drops the voltage to 220-230V. It does this instantly but when voltage on mains goes back up it takes 30sec to switch off the AVR, so even if voltage jumps between 249 and 251 it doesn't go on switching on and off. So now my question is that will the sudden trimming of voltage from 250 to 230 cause any damage to the PSU? Other things connected to UPS (Ups is connected to AVR) are the monitor and inkhet printer. UPS Model: APC BX1100C-IN AVR Model: APC LSW1200VA PSU Model: ANTEC EAG PRO 750 (Rebranded Seasonic Focus GM)
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Hi! I am planning to buy a surge protector to plug in my PS5 and one or potentially two 27 inch monitors along with other peripherals like chargers etc. After some research, I landed on these two: - https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Protector-Multiple-Extension-Essential/dp/B09SG2Q23M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3ONSTA74W4L4T&keywords=anker%2Bpower%2Bstrip&qid=1694203135&sprefix=anker%2Bpower%2Bstrip%2B%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HVGKMC/ref=twister_B092ZV6893?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 I was confused which one to go for since APC seems like a more trusted brand in terms of surge protectors but Anker is also good and has better features in this model. Is there any certification to look out for or any other recommendation?
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Hello, I would like to know if anyone have this UPS model: APC Smart UPS RT 1000 here's a link: https://www.se.com/fr/fr/product/SURT1000XLI/smartups-online-rt-onduleur-1000va/ apparently it is an old UPS and I would like to know if it's ok to use it with modern hardware, here's my pc specs: cpu: Amd 3950x gpu: MSI rtx 4090 gaming trio psu: MSI MPG A1000G two hardrives 4to and 8to I got that UPS from my father's friend who claims that he had it for two years and then removed it because he doesn't need it right now, so he gave it to us to test it. I don't know how long it has been working. My main work is about 3D modeling and rendering, I want to protect my PC from outages (its been happening a lot these days), is that UPS system good for my needs even if the UPS itself is old and my pc specs are recent? Thanks everyone
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https://youtu.be/JOwwzO8IW9A Maybe my tech buds here can wrap there heads around this one. I never thought I'd have such results like this. This 4K Xfinity box is sucking up so much power. And I'm not even sure if it's the box entirely. Let me know what you guys think
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Hi I am in need of a new UPS for my server rack as I have outgrown the old one I had. I predict I need a 1500VA UPS. My budget is $300 and I am trying to get a pure sine wave if possible. Does anyone have any good suggestions as I see some people are reporting bad switch over times for UPS' at this price point. Thanks
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So, my current UPS seems to be failing. And since it starts to act up just like around 2 months after changing it's battery (After like 1,5 year use), I think I am done with this brand (Prolink PRO1201SFCU). When main is down the UPS only keep the PC on for like 10 seconds, then it starts making clicking sound repeatedly, which I assume is the relay. Warranty is gone now so if the repair cost a lot i just won't repair it, if it's cheap, then I'll keep it around for less sensitive and/or expensive things. So, since I am not exacty savvy about UPS quality, specifications, and brands. I thought it'd be worth it to ask for opinions from this forum dwellers. I browsed around in my country's market and found these: APC BVX1200LI-MS [$99] https://www.apc.com/id/en/product/BVX1200LI-MS/apc-easy-ups-bvx-1200va-230v-avr-universal-sockets/ CyberPower UT1050EG [$75 for the 1050EG] https://www.cyberpower.com/global/en/product/sku/ut1050eg CyberPower UT1500 [$119] https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/ut1500e The APC one seems to be Indonesia only (or South-East Asia only) model, since I can't find it when I searched in APC UK or US site. Not sure if the CyberPower UT1500 is a new model, existing model, or discontinued model. Local merchants don't know jack shit about such stuffs, pointless asking them. The capacity range is a whole lot different between each because the lineup in stock isn't that great. I'd put the CyberPower UT1200EG instead but yeah, can't find anyone selling it. I know APC brand since I was like 15 years ago, but never experienced using CyberPower, nor had anyone I know using it. Is it a good enough brand? Which one do you think the most worth to buy ? I appreciate your time sharing your experience / thoughts / opinion.
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Budget (including currency): unlimited Country: India ok so I have 800 watts of pc, a 4K tv, 2 displays and an apple mac mini that would need to be connected to a ups, now I have backup generators in my place that can power everything but it takes 10 seconds for the engine to rev up, during which time there is no power, enough for the computers to die, now I need a ups, perhaps 2 that can sustain all of these devices for a minute at most ( if there are 2 ups’ one will need to power 300 watts of stuff and the other will do the rest, I can’t change that as that is how the desks are placed) unlimited budget, the sockets in India are 220-240 volt and I have something around 15 amp breakers so pls help me find the cheapest ups that can fit the criteria either one or 2 ups’ will do ( 2 might be preferable as it’ll help with the wiring) note smart ups’ which connect with the generator or something are not possible, all they should be able to do is sit between the wall and the pc’s and make sure the power is uninterrupted from the power going out to the generator automatically kicking in
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So I got a APC Backus pro 1000 and it has a flashing battery. Anyone know what this means? It's not a new one so I'm thinking that its the batteries inside. Anyone know what this is?
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So I'm planning on buying a UPS and through the limited research that I've done, essentially it is recommended that I get a UPS that supports both the wattage for my monitor and PC. Assuming I added correctly, both monitor and PC requires 820W (PSU is 750W while monitor's max draw is 70W) Now, to match 820W i would need to pay an absurd amount of money. So i was thinking; I'm only getting the UPS to give me the chance to shut down safely in case of a power outage (unstable electricity), meaning I only need probably 2-3 minutes of extra electricity. Can i get away with a UPS which outputs only 415 Watts/800VA? Specifically this model: http://www.apc.com/shop/my/en/products/APC-Back-UPS-800VA-230V-AVR-Universal-and-IEC-Sockets/P-BX800LI-MS
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I recently purchased a SMC1000C by APC & discovered a "green mode" that's supposed to save me ~$25.00 a year. Although like other efficiency modes I've heard of with other things, I'm concerned this might effect my PC negatively since it's Ryzen 5 1500X & 3GBG GTX 1060 are overclocked. I would've of asked on APC's forums but figured I'd get a more biased opinion there, so should I disable it or reap the savings?
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I recently moved in to my house, new to me but build over 20 years ago. This is my first winter in it, and I notice that every time the heater turns on the screen goes blank for a second. This only happens on my computer, I'm using a tv for a monitor. The tv is also used with an xbox and i never had this issue with either one of them only my computer. I think what is happening is that the heater for fraction of a second" to start up" pulls to much electricity and for that second the computer lags a bit. Idk I'm not Tesla, but with that logic would a back up power supply, like a battery back up supply fix this issue. one that charged a batter an only went to aux power"battery pack" when the power lvls dropped. I believe they use these in server rooms and the brand I'm most familiar with is APC. I wouldn't need an industrial back up power supply only one that would keep a constant flow of electricity to my computer. Any thoughts or ideas would greatly be appreciated.
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My build as follows MSI Z370A Pro Mobo Intel i7 8700K Corsair H45 Corsair 8GB Ram Corsair TX750M Seagate 1TB GTX 1070Ti Case - NZXT Phantom 530 I have this gaming rig built and I have a lot of fluctuations and power cuts in my area. I have a low end numeric ups which is good in case of light load like browsing/watching movie etc. But when it comes to gaming, the UPS fails to kick on the battery power and just totally shuts down my PC with no power. I am looking for a budget gaming UPS in India and I found APC ups but I don't know anything about it. I read the reviews but if anybody is using a better UPS for gaming please mention here. Besides also tell me about the APC 600W UPS wheather it could back up my PC while I am gaming when there is a power outage
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I know there is a lot of options to choose a nice low output wattage ups for a normal pc usage, but what if i want an UPS for a gaming pc that could deliver me an output as more than 600W. Please suggest me a better UPS for a gaming PC. I live in India so please suggest a budget ups that can withstand fluctuations while gaming with my 1070Ti and i7 8700K with 8 GB RAM
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I need more Power! So plugging my desktop into the wall is not enough when i'm gaming with my overclocked pc. Power keeps shutting of at random becuase my dad has wiring that will make you cringe... so....i need an APC power backup that will sustain my 750 watt when the power shuts off. Alot of people who have power backups say their pc shuts down immediately. I need an APC that will give me power even when their is no power in my house. No delay but a constant "i got you continue gaming" power backup supply for a expensive OC Desktop is needed. Should i Make my own using a power inverter a battery and a battery charger? Input anyone? Regards, :)
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So i have only two plugs for 1 wall outlet, so want to increase the plug-able plug so I can plug the monitor and the pc and other stuff. Does having a power strip ok ?? or is there any other options?
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I've got an APC Back UPS ES 650 that I bought new about...maybe close to a decade ago? Anyway, it hasn't experienced any significant protection events save basic power loss and power quality events during its early life and has been sitting to the side doing nothing for the past four years after the last time I recycled the battery. My question is if it would be fine to run it with my TV and game consoles (newer consoles, ex. PS4, LCD TV). I'd put a replacement battery in it first, of course. Think it'd be good enough or should I shell out for a new basic UPS for the purpose? I doubt pure-sine wave vs. adaptive matters terribly much with this application. Feel free to correct my ignorance as necessary...constructively please.
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I decided that with my new build I wanted to purchase a UPS to plug it into. I admit I didn't do my homework thoroughly enough and purchased an APC BACK-UPS 1100VA/600W model# BN1100M2. After getting the unit home I did some more research and found that most modern PSU's (including the Corsair RM650 I purchased for my new build) have a feature called 'active PFC' which means they need power delivered in true sine wave form. The BN1100M2 does not do this, it delivers power in a 'stepped approximation to a sine-wave,' which could cause the computer to shut down unexpectedly in the event of a power outage and switching over to battery power. However, on the APC product page for the BN1100M2, if you click the button next to "Want additional product information?" it mentions the product is "active PFC compatible." Further down the page it says this, "APFC Compatibility: Ensures electronics that have active PFC power requirements will not unexpectedly shut down when switching from utility power to battery power during an outage." This is literally all they say about this feature. Link to APC Product Page, click the blue button that says "Show Product Overview" to see the listed feature in the "Overview" section. One more weird thing is that the model number match between the website and the actual box the UPS came in, but the website calls it the Back UPS PRO, whereas PRO is not mentioned anywhere on the box I have. Does anyone know if I can use this UPS fine with my current PSU thanks to the "active PFC compatibility" feature, or should I return the model I have and switch to one that outputs in true sine wave form?
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I've attached a video so you guys know exactly whats going on. Its just been constantly clicking but everything is displaying fine. After googling, people say its because there is electrical disturbance and I have to reduce the sensitivity on Power Chute. But I have done that and it is at an absolute minimum sensitivity, but its still doing the same thing! Need help! 1923467295_WhatsAppVideo2019-12-03at18_38_48.mp4.e47871568cce23ba092fbecf8a6855fe.mp4
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I am trying to find what the cable apc uses is Called. The one for their UPS devices. It's USB on one end and I think ethernet or phone jack on the other. I broke one and can't find them online under common names so I'm trying to find the actual type of cable. Thanks
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Hello! I have a Gaming System with APC UPS (Back UPS 1100, 4 Years Old). I'm facing some issues with it now. It was working fine for last 4 years, but starting facing the issue from last 1 week. Sometimes Monitor looses the Display Signal (Monitor doesn't turn-off but looses the display signal which causes the screen go black for a second and then comes back). Mostly, My System gets off (without proper shut-down) or re-starts. Both issues happens whenever there is a Power flowing rightly (not Electricity Cut). I have removed the UPS and my system is working fine and monitor also. Could you please help me with this in finding, What's the issue? Thanks! System Details: CPU: Intel i7-4790K Motherboard: ASUS Maximus Hero VII RAM: Corsair 16GB PSU: RM650i GPU: Asus Strix OC Edition GTX 970 System Life: 4 Years Old UPS Life: 4 Years Old.
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hello good day so this is my issue i have a APC pro 1300 UPS... and most times when electricity goes it cuts off and then go the battery power, making it pointless as a UPS... like there is a 1 second delay from when electricity goes b4 it decides to kick into battery mode shutting down my PC...the battery is fully charge and can last a long time..voltage in and out is great what could be the problem?
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From past few months I have started to face a lot of issue with my pc. It all started with my mouse led flickering when there is a power fluctuation. From there it went to issue with UPS No. 1 (further referred as microtek) which I changed to APC but it exhibited more or less the same issue. The issue was psu not responding quickly to the ups switching to battery backup from mains and vice versa. Some say its main capacitor holding time issue but system was not consuming full wattage of PSU so holdup time should be higher. Mind it same issue of shutdown on switchback to mains from battery was not seen when system was idle. Another issue was the psu shutting down automatically when ups switched from battery to mains once the psu even shutdown when ups(apc) was supplying mains power through itself and pc was just on the desktop doing nothing. Some said it was related to stepped Sinewave and apfc but if that was the case it shouldn't have worked with the UPS(microtek) for 10months or shouldn't have shutdown while ups(apc) was on mains mode. So does this translate to a faulty psu or just my bad luck with UPS? As both ups exhibit more or less the same problem. PC specs in signature. If you need any more info please feel free to comment. I wrote this in a hurry so there maybe some grammatical mistakes.
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Well, i'm kind of bored at work so i did this: Pi4 with docker (influxdb + grafana) with exposed ports for both. Pi Zero W connected to an UPS (APC CS 650) 400W (you need the USB -> RJ45 that came with the UPS or you can buy one online, they're pretty cheap). My set up: Pi Zero W collecting the metrics with telegraf and posting them to my influxdb on pi 4 and showing them in grafana, also on pi 4. This could be done just by using a single pi 4. But by the sake of madness, a zero w was also installed. Now, on the pi connected to the ups: sude apt-get update sudo apt-get install apcupsd Change the apcupsd config file to adjust to this properties: sudo nano /etc/apcupsd/apcupsd.conf # #UPSCABLE smart UPSCABLE usb #UPSTYPE apcsmart #DEVICE /dev/ttyS0 UPSTYPE usb Start apcupsd: sudo service apcupsd start Test the setup with the command: apcaccess (ups stats should be displayed) Now install telegraf (influxdb repo needs to be added in order to install it like this) sudo apt-get install telegraf Edit telegraf file: sudo nano /etc/telegraf/telegraf.conf And add this to the bottom: [[inputs.apcupsd]] # # A list of running apcupsd server to connect to. # # If not provided will default to tcp://127.0.0.1:3551 # servers = ["tcp://127.0.0.1:3551"] # # ## Timeout for dialing server. # timeout = "5s" Search for this line: [[outputs.influxdb]] and uncomment / edit in accordance urls = ["http://192.168.1.118:8086"] --> this is is my docker IP for the influx DB. you can point it to localhost:8086 if you have influx on the same machine without docker. Check the status: sudo systemctl status telegraf (use start instead of status in order to start it) Now, grafana side. I won't get into the details of installing grafana, but feel free to ask for help if you need. Create the data source. For minimal config just set the data source name and HTTP URL. So, cool side, click on the PLUS ( + ) sign of grafana and select "Import" Add the ID 10835 (https://grafana.com/grafana/dashboards/10835) and name it accordingly, setting the newly created upsdb data source. And you're pretty much done. Go check your new dashboard, you little rascal!! I've made a few changes to mine, so it has the 400W value, the price per kWh, set the graphs to euros and a couple more things i cannot recall but will gladly post my JSON file. This is the final look: And the end part: Truth be told, my pi zero w only increased the load value by 3W so it's pretty neat! This dash was not originally created by me, i just added / altered some of the graphs and Grafana Variables so it would suit my needs. I already had a TIG stack running on pi 4 (Telegraf + InfluxDB + Grafana) for monitoring purposes, i just added another dash to my grafana so i can monitor my UPS stuff on the other room. Pretty cheat, pretty cool, pretty easy! Feel free to ask any questions! Sharing the good vibes around!
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According to Outervision website, my system requirement is somewhere like 330-340 watt. I want to buy the APC 600VA ups which is like 360watt, I did a lot of research and I know this is just making it there, I should get the 1100VA model. But I am not bothered about the backup it can provide, there is barely a power cut where I live, but some voltage fluctuation is seen often. So my aim is to have a stable power source for my PC. How is the AVR function in the APC 600VA back-UPS (BX600C-IN) for my purpose? Shall I buy it or get the 1100VA model (it is actually more than double the price of the 600VA)
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Hi all, Wasn't quite sure where to ask this question so hopefully, this place is fine. I am currently looking at a job prospect that would have me moving from Canada to the UK and while I know most of my electronics would be able to make the move (game consoles and PCs) I'm curious if I would be able to run a UPS (APC 1500VA) from NA behind a power adaptor. It's likely not recommended sure, but I'm just looking at it as an option to get me going while I go and buy all the new cables I need and buy a proper replacement UPS that is built for the voltage there. I have verified that neither of my 2 UPS' are 200+V compatible so if I could I'd like to have one run my desktop after moving there to get settled.