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Hi all, Looking for some help, having an issue whereby Windows 10 is dropping audio but only when playing DD+ content with full passthrough (True-HD, MA DTS:X & Atmos etc all fine). This results in the decoder on the receiver turning off, before restarting for about 0.5s and is happening every 10s or so. Has anybody experienced any similar issues only relating to one particular audio type? This is from all sources, Plex, Netflix (windows app), MPC etc. Setup is as follows: Windows 10 20H2 (Have tried all versions and builds from 1909 up) running from m.2 nvme Intel i9-7960X (With and without O/C) Asus Mark1 X299 MB (tried XMP profile & BIOS defaults) 64gb ram ddr4 corsair vengence Nvidia 2080ti (With and without O/C) Sound out via HDMI to LG C9 OLED with EARC back to reciever, this is not the issue, have tested direct to receiver. Audio issue is PC related as TV apps and Google TV Chromecast all play DD+ no issues as does friends PC. All drivers updated and also freshly installed, new windows build tried, swapped out graphics card for 2070 Super, changed HDMI lead, several different network connections tried and local files. Tried using a friends PC who's build is similar (different MB (still Asus TUF) & Processor (still Intel)) which works with no issues. Tried their m.2 with full build in my computer and this then had the issue. All drivers are the same build. In my mind this must therefore be hardware on the MB or processor side, but cannot find the cause or answer. Any suggestions welcomed. Thanks Jack
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So once in a while when I want to hit sleep in my laptop I accidentally hit shutdown and without any prompts or warnings this thing would shut itself off. Very annoying. Previously if I had something open or running and I hit shutdown, windows would give me a warning stating there are things running/open and asking if I'm sure. but now for some reason even that message doesn't come up even when im running something like a vmware. I did some searching and I came across this solution to get a shutdown prompt: https://superuser.com/questions/1019041/how-to-make-the-power-button-show-a-prompt-in-windows-10 To me it didnt work. It still shuts down as said before. I was wondering if any one got any ideas to get something done to this. Thanks.
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I built my pc and I have windows 10 pro. I have two m.2 SSD and one HDD. When I boot up the little white line blinks in the upper left corner then it works it’s way from the corner to the center of the screen, like it jumps around before final opening windows 10. How do I fix that ?
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I was playing some minecraft on my computer when suddenly everything stopped responding and it crashed. I waited a few minutes but it wasnt a blue screen or anything else so I pressed the power button and shut the pc down. When I started up my pc again It gave me a blue screen which reads out : "Recovery Your PC/Device needs to be repaired. The application or operating system couldn't be loaded because a required file is missing or contains errors. File: \WINDOWS\System 32\winload.exe Error code 0xc000000e You'll need to use a recovery tools if you don't have any installation media (like disc or USB device), contact your PC administrator or PC/Device manufacturer. Press enter to try again. Press f8 for Start-up Settings." I truly believe you guys can help me since I picked the parts for my pc with your help and this forum has also helped my get over the problems I had when I was bulding the pc.. Pressing f8 or enter just ends up with the screen turning black for a split second then this page comes up again. I tried turning it on and off , shut it off and the power and gave it 10 minutes but that didnt work either. I have been using this computer for about two years now and Ive encountered blue screen crashes with the code Memory_Management but none such as this. I generally use the PC for School and Games so I wasnt doing anything out of the ordinary either. I have really important files in both drives so it would be great if I could recover the pc with both of them intact. My specs are Asrock B450m pro4, Ryzen 5 2600, Rx 570, 8Gbs of ddr4 2666mhz, 250 Gb sandisk ssd, 1Tb barracuda hard disk and be quiet system power 9 500w. Any help is appreciated and If you have any questions feel free to ask.
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I plugged my usb with windows on it into my motherboard and when i boot into in via the bios it shuts down the computer. Idk whats wrong. Ive tried changing the ram, updating the bios and removing the gpu and i still cant get anything. Ive even tried linux mint.
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- windows 10
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I was playing some games on my computer when suddenly everything stopped responding and it crashed. I waited a few minutes but it wasnt a blue screen or anything else so I pressed the power button and shut the pc down. When I started up my pc again It gave me a blue screen which reads out : Recovery Your PC/Device needs to be repaired. The application or operating system couldn't be loaded because a required file is missing or contains errors. File: \WINDOWS\System 32\winload.exe Error code 0xc000000e I tried fixing it with the repair option and the bootrec /fıxmbr aswell but it didnt work and now I started getting the same error but with the error code 0xc000000f. Then i decided to create a clean install on my windows so I pressed install instead of 'repair your pc' but I was shocked to see that the computer showed the ssd having 500mbs total instead of 250 Gbs and its not just a partition as you can see in the screenshots below. I dont know what to do now,i tried every tutorial on youtube with no good outcome and I dont want to lose my files within the ssd drive but right now I dont even know if the ssd is still intact. Any help on how I can recover my ssd or the files within is greatly appreciated.
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So I sold my friend an RTX 2070 about 3 months ago. I used it for 2 years prior to selling it to him. I had mined on the card and new it could be faulty after using it to mine for maybe 100+ days. He called me telling me the pc went black while he was playing Rocket League. I went to his house popped in a GT 1030 to test it out with and the pc worked perfectly fine as well as running on integrated graphics. I take the card home, and put it in a test bench the card boots bios and windows install media just like normal. I set it up with an offline account and after about 10 seconds of just sitting on the desktop with nothing opened the screen went black and didn't come back on. Eventually forced a restart and bios screen showed then black. I continued doing that until the windows recovery started. Things I've tried are putting it in other benches with the exact same issue. Haven't tried anything else because I've got no idea where to start. I've heard of DDU but haven't gotten around to it. If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. This is the exact card: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-Graphics-GV-N2070WF3-8GC/dp/B07JBTS8HR/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=gigabyte+rtx+2070&qid=1615178813&sr=8-10
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Hello, I've been having BSOD's since early Februrary (4 BSOD's since then). This is my first self built computer so I am somewhat clueless on why this is going on \(;-;)/. OS: Windows 10 64-bit OS, x64-based processor I got the OS download off amazon I built this computer in Mid-January 2021 Age of OS installation: Mid-January 2021 CPU model: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Video Card model: 4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650 MotherBoard: ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0 Power Supply: EVGA 500 BR, 80+ 500watt bronze power supply Desktop https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtS23cawE3hDgjIFh7ldW4TwIu_9?e=JmPrd7 (this is the link to the minidumps) https://1drv.ms/t/s!AtS23cawE3hDgi4DptjbX9MeZW8W?e=uj00oa (This is the link to the DxDiag) https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtS23cawE3hDgi-KBpj-G61JgoFk?e=kjWZ0q (This is the link to the msinfo32) I know the last two weren't asked for but I figured more info would help. I was also going to include the report from the Resource and Performance Monitor but it has been "Collecting data for 60 seconds..." for the past half an hour, if it does come through eventually, Ill update this post with it. Of the BSOD's I remember, the errors were "SYSTEM SERVICE EXCEPTION", "KERNAL SECURITY CHECK FAILURE", "KERNAL MODE HEAP CORRUPTION", and one that I do not recall. To add on, I've done the following: - Re installation of my graphic drivers (both the clean restart from the installation tool and a full clean of the drivers and install using DDU) - /scannow on cmd prompt (no problems) - MSI Afterburner to make sure my comp wasnt just overheating (hovered around 40°C) - Used the memory diag tool (no problems) I hope someone can help me figure this out.
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Is there any software that allows me to download windows 10 os on multiple partitions on a external drive? Or any method that I can use to do this. I have tried to install windows 10 normally but it won't let me interact with an external drive. I tried using WinToUSB, while it worked, it was at the cost of wiping the drive first. I emailed this company asking if the professional version would allow me to directly install windows to partitions on a external hard drive without wiping it, and there is a option for the paid version of the software thats not suppose to wipe the drive and reformat, but they responded to me saying it wont work, and suggested bcdboot.exe. I looked into bcdboot.exe and it allows me to create new boot pathways, but the problem remains how do I successfully install windows onto separate partitions first then use bcdboot.exe? As for why I am trying to partition out an external drive, I am in the car mechanic industry, I am using a laptop to flash cars, but the software for each separate car manufacturer conflicts with each other, so normally you can only have 1 type of software on a computer at a time, and deleting and reinstalling software is time consuming and a pain. So if anyone has a solution, or better method to achieve this goal, I would love to hear it.
- 6 replies
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- windows 10
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Is it possible To install Linux Mint alongside Windows 10 without using an external USB drive or CD/DVD? Thanks!
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So I have bluescreens with all sorts of errors, after Windows updated to KB5000802. 0xc00021a, system service exception, kmode exception not handled, dpc watchdog violation and many more. I tried to get onto the desktop and uninstall the said update, but it didn't help, still all sorts of errors. Then I tried to boot from my Win 10 CD. Sometimes it works and I can get into the install menu and switch to the service options, but all the available options there for repairing or going back to a prev timestamp don't work. Somehow I got into another menu that has the points for reseting windows and uninstalling updates in it. I don't really want to reset windows (i.e. I have a student Photoshop version on there for which I don't have the key anymore), and the uninstall for featureupdates didn't work, but for quality updates it did. But still no help. Now I want to get back into that menu, because reseting it without loosing data seems like a good option now after 12h of troubleshooting, but I can't anymore. So my questions: How can I get into that menu, or can I reset without loosing personal data via a cmd line? And: Would it be posible to install windows from scratch to a new Sata SSD and put the m.2 back in when that's done to get the data off of it, or would that result in bluescreens again?
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The file or directory is corrupted and unreadable is the error I've been getting, while trying to do literally anything related to the OS or the C: drive. I can't update Windows either. The solution I've been seeing everywhere is the chkdsk command. Since the C: drive is the drive where Windows is installed the command says that it will check the drive the next time Windows is restarted. Whenever I restart the chkdsk command does not carry through because I am met with the boot manager. Bear with me, it gets worse. Windows 7 is the default boot option and I don't even have it installed anymore. I tried to make Windows 10 the default and remove Windows 7 from msconfig buuuuuuuut........ The file or directory is corrupted and unreadable. Yes. please can someone help. And I have tried resetting my PC but the stupid boot manager gets in the way if I do it from settings and I use recovery mode I get another error, There was a problem resetting your PC - No changes were made. This is absolute hell. Thanks in advance if any of you can solve. Thank you.
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so let's just say I have 2 driver C and D in C I installed system programs that can not be installed on drive D by the way windows is 10 so I upgraded my pc now I want to know if there is a software that can identify programs in D so I don't have to install them again
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I suspect that my PC is dying and I suspect the GPU. I built my PC in March last year, so I’m guessing it’s a faulty unit. I ran several tests and benchmarks to try and diagnose the problem. Earlier this week, I booted up my PC and was greeted with an extremely low screen resolution. It turned out that the graphics driver was not enabled. I uninstalled the driver and rebooted after re-downloading drivers. That seemed to fix the resolution and driver issue. After that, multiple games had CTD trying to start up (Project Warlock and Warhammer 40k Battlefleet: Gothic Armada 2). I got suspicious after this, so I updated my Windows 10, did a clean install of my nvidia drivers, and even tried rolling back the drivers to a previous version. None of those fixed the problem. I did some experimenting with different games and used some benchmark programs to test things. All CTD events so far from all games produced a crash report with no info. Here’s what I’ve got so far: - DOOM Eternal suddenly cuts to a black screen but sound continues to play. I started the game three times. The first time the black screen happened 5 minutes after startup, second time it was 20 minutes, third time black screen occurred after 45 minutes of play. -Cyberpunk 2077 had a CTD on startup; restarted the PC and tried again. Game ran for 10 minutes, then CTD. Mouse was laggy and low FPS on desktop afterwards until restart. This happed with Gothic Armada 2 as well. -3DMark benchmark software soft-locked after running its initial test. Tried twice, needed system restart to fix both times. -20 minutes ago my wifi stopped working. Troubleshooting produced a problem with the wireless adapter. Home wifi is still operational. At this point I think it might possibly be the motherboard as well. I have an RTX 2080 and a Ryzen 9 3900x CPU. PC is plugged into a surge protector. I’m really stumped at this point. I could pull parts and replace them to find out what’s wrong, but the problem is that I don’t have any replacements to test them with. Any advice?
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Hi all! I recently replaced my old HDD's with a new 7200 RPM, CMR/PNR, 8TB Toshiba X300 HDD. CristalDiskMarks results are great. Read speeds that passes 250 MB/s. Write speeds up to 230 MB/s. HDD connected to SATA3 port1. Aligned NTFS partition with 4K clusters. And after copying all the data over to my new HDD, sorting things out for a new layout, I had to defragment the new disk in to order all the indexes of the MFT, the directories and the files to speed up loading times. With this new HDD this shouldn't take days anymore, right? Wrong! To my great chagrin, even on large files, the top read/write speed on the HDD never passes 22MB/s which is imo way too slow. The older disks topped at 60MB/s read/write during defrag. Does anyone have a clue why the defragmentation proces is so extremely slow? Doesn't matter which program I use. Defraggler, MyDefrag, Windows Disk Optimization, contig.exe, it is all the same. Systeminfo:
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Hi . So a couple of days ago I installed red dead 2 and also geforce experience so I can use the sharpening effect . I ended up removing geforce experience because it's still a crappy program that never works . My problem is currently that after I removed it my computer keeps randomly freezing when using file explorer . It locks up for 5 minutes when I try to do something. The control panel doesn't respond or give me any information about high cpu or disk usage . I checked afterburner and my cpu and gpu temps are fine and none of my cpu cores are overloaded . When I start my pc up and try to enter my password the lock screen would be delayed . The letters I type dont appear for a couple of minutes and just suddenly jump in . I also now have an issue where I try to copy a file and it gets stuck at 100% yet it never actually finishes . Trying to stop the transfer causes another hard lockup to the point I have to restart the pc . Is a new windows install the only solution to this ? Please help . Thanks
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I've been having trouble for a while now (past 2 years, since I built my PC) with my computer's inability to run games. Sometimes. It always just depends on the day, but overall its been a rough time using it. It crashes video wise, and consistently on every game I play on except for Minecraft. And even with Minecraft, disabling and re-enabling shaders will cause it to crash. I am not entirely sure what to do. I've uninstalled and reinstalled drivers, rebooted my computer, updated drivers, rolled-back drivers, changed Direct-X versions on games. The one thing that I haven't wanted to do is do a fresh install of Windows, mainly because i live in a rural area and i have lots of games installed that take up probably 50-75% of my hard drive space, and would require to re-download copious amounts of data to get the files back. I currently have a low end PC, specs are as follows: AMD Ryzen 3 2200g Gigabyte GTX 1050 2g 16gb Corsair Vengeance ram ASUS A320 mobo I have also tried using compatibility mode, which also doesn't do anything. The crashes also depend on the day. Some days I can play CS:GO with no troubles, high frame rates, and play for hours. Other times, within seconds of entering a match, the screen just freezes. The game is still running, audio playback still exists, but the screen is frozen on that one frame. The rest of my PC is completely fine whenever this happens. The crashes continue with games like GTA V, Valorant, Borderlands 2, Fortnite, and used to happen with Spellbreak before i uninstalled it (because of the crashes). THESE crashes however, just completely break the game and I would need to open Task Manager to end them and then restart them. And, of course, sometimes after restarting they would still crash, and I'd have to repeat the process again until the various games decided not to. Note: Reinstalling Windows 10 will be my absolute last resort. If there is ANYTHING else that I can still try, no matter how tedious, I am more willing to do that then do a fresh install.
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- troubleshooting
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this just started happening a week ago or so, and I did some research, this is not *new* but it never occurred on my system, and I've been asking around and many people have it too since they installed NVIDIA 30xx GPU... so there may or may not be a connection (drivers) I updated my windows from 1809 to newest version - 20H2(?) No change, it's still there eating up to *15%* GPU usage, which frankly is neither normal nor acceptable, and I'm certain this is a bug. Since this started my GPU temp is around 10C more, so around 40C... obviously because it never really idles anymore (set to normal, not to performance power plans) Anyone else noticing this? Did you find a fix? Is Microsoft aware of this behavior? I really hope this gets fixed, it has to be a bug, and not with my windows install because that is as pure as it gets, and as said I found many people with the same issue...
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Hi guys So I'm using some cheap bluetooth earbuds since my normal ones broke, but whenever I try to listen to some music and play a game at the same time I get no sound at all. The earbuds work perfectly fine on my phone, and if I have a single sound output on Windows, but no more. The headphones also show up under two different names in the sound settings on the taskbar; one says Headphones (BLU-BUD Stereo) and the other one is (Headphones Bluetooth BLUBUD AG Hands free Audio). The first one gives good sound quality but only on one tab and the latter gives the worst sounds I've ever heard in my life but does work with 2 applications at the same time. Does anyone know how to fix this? Couldn't find anything online. Thanks in advance
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I have an SSD and a HDD on my system. The SSD runs windows 7, the HDD runs windows 10. A couple of days ago, I was using win10 and it installed an update. When I booted my pc the next day, trying to boot into win7, I got the black screen of death. The screen is totally black, except for the cursor. This screen appears instead of the login screen and I can't bring up the task manager in any way. Booting win 7 into safe mode (any of the 3) results in the same black screen of death. Low-resolution video and Last Known Good Configuration all result in the same black screen of death. I can boot into win10 without any problems, but it says that I don't have permission to access the SSD. What should I do?
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My windows freezes, I can still move the mouse and do ctrl alt delete, but explorer isnt working as well tried pressing alt f4 to bring up the shutdown or restart options it pops up but when I hit enter nothing happens I have this problem for a month now and encountered it twice I think, I tried to turn off and on my monitor incase it was the monitor but it wasn't scrren went black i tried to unplug and replug to the gpu it had a display but the whole screen already freezed I'll put a video that happened after I turned on and replug my monitor onto the gpu, thanks in advance Specs: 4x4gb 2400mhz teamgroup elite ram Ryzen 5 2600 6 cores 12 threads (no OC cuz of mobo restricitions) ASUS EX A320M GAMING 1TB HDD 500GB HDD 250GB NVME SSD SAPPHIRE RX 5500XT 8GB 20210207_213356_001.mp4
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- windows 10
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Ok so my notifications from discord dont save in the windows 10 action center, They pop up when i get a notification but dont save when i go to the action center, I have the priority setting to be "top" priority.
- 4 replies
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- windows 10
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So I recently built a new pc and it works fine except it won't go into sleep mode or shut off. The only way I can turn it off is with the power button. I installed amd chipset drivers, I reseated my dimms, I checked my psu cables and did a clean reinstall of windows. I also tried a clean boot but it still doesn't shut off or sleep with all startup programs disabled. Anybody have any idea what could be causing this issue? System info: Windows 10 AMD 3600 cpu AsRock B550 16 GB dual channel ram RX 570 gpu Rosewill Prism M case
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Hey guys. In short, I want to connect my air pods to my pc, however the Bluetooth option is not showing up. I am using a tp-link Archer TX50E adapter for Bluetooth. Upon checking the device manager, the "Generic Bluetooth Adapter" driver does not work. Under "Generic Bluetooth Adapter > Properties > Device status" it reads this: "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)." I've tried uninstalling the driver and then scanning for hardware changes to re-install it, but no luck no matter how many times I do it. I've tried updating it, no luck. I've tried physically taking out and reinstalling my adapter. Nothing. I feel like I've tried everything that I can find by googling for answers and still, nothing works. What can I do? Here's the longer version of the story for those who want more detail: I built this pc probably around 5-6 years ago, so its not exactly new. About a year ago, I got air pods as well as a small ASUS USB adapter for my pc for them to work. I had a pretty bad experience with that adapter. I barely got it working in the first place through sheer will and frustration. After that, I decided to not mess with it anymore. However, it was still tedious to deal with from time to time, so instead I decided to get a tp-link Archer TX50E, a Wi-Fi and Bluetooth adapter combo that connects through a PCIe port. The Bluetooth feature works by connecting it to a USB pin header on the motherboard via a wire. It was plug-and-play and it worked perfectly with no problems for about half a year. However, a few days ago, long story short, I messed up my PC and had to wipe my SSD and reinstall Windows 10. Despite using the same adapter, the Bluetooth feature no longer works, though the Wi-Fi connectivity does. I suspect after messing around with my previous ASUS USB adapter, it somehow allowed the new adapter to work as well through some setting or download I had done previously? Regardless, the fact that the new adapter used to work before with no problem but doesn't work now on a clean drive seems to indicate that it isn't a hardware issue. Here's the thing as well, I could've sworn I saw two separate drivers on the device manager before I wiped my SSD, and upon seeing YouTube videos of people showing their device manager, it shows a different Bluetooth driver called "Intel Wireless Bluetooth" instead of "Generic Bluetooth adapter" which I think I had before I wiped my SSD. I tried installing such a driver from the intel website, but no luck, it still keeps the old one. I'm not sure if I just didn't install it correctly, or if I got the right one, or what. I even tried using the CD that came with the adapter to download drivers through there, despite the fact that I didn't need to use it for it to work before, still nothing. So I'm stuck, and sheer will and frustration doesn't seem to be working this time around. Thank you for reading. Feel free to ask questions. Any help would be appreciated.
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- bluetooth
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Hey, I want to do a clean install of windows. I've installed it, but I noticed that my background from my previous install is still there. I thought a clean install would wipe everything. I did the install with a usb through bios. I deleted the partitions from my C: drive and everything. I didn't unplug my other drives though. Also the system reserved folder installed itself on my hdd, not the drive that contains windows. Can I move this to my windows drive, and is there even a point in doing that? If it doesn't affect performance or anything I don't mind it being there, but the drive is pretty old (wouldn't be suprised if it died soon). If the drive straight up dies along with the system reserved folder, would it cause issues? The reason I want a clean install of windows is because I've started noticing suttering in my games, and my mouse pointer hangs from time to time. I've also changed hardware a while ago, and thought there might be a lot of bloat left from previous hardware. There is also a lot of programs running in the background that has been stockpiling for years.