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Hi, So i am having some trouble researching a good solution to put my rack in a different room. Mainly since my PC is in there. What i need to pass to my other room (about 40m cable length away): -2x 4k 144HZ video -4x USB high speed (Needs to be high speed for external SSD's sometimes and capture cards). The video isn't really the problem since i can get fiber HDMI cables that i use for work and know will work, but i am having a lot of trouble finding good high speed usb extenders. a fiber KVM extender seems to be a good solution however these get compression issues in my experience on the video end, and for usb only these would be an expensive purchase. Any tips on cost effective ways to get this usb over to my other room? Motherboard is the EVGA classified z690, i do not have pci-e space to spare.

Front USB-C on case only supports power, not data. USB-C works just fine. For the internal USB headers, one of two is passing data, the other appears to be only power, but I am not completely certain. Back of the motherboard, most USBs work, the ones that do not (2), only pass power as well. Steps already taken: - Cleared CMOS - Checked for any related BIOS settings that may cause issue - Updated BIOS - Updated all drivers with SDI (Snappy Driver Installer; I use an older version that I keep for work, the driverpacks are up to date on it, though). - Checked for OS errors or corruption via built in windows tools & SFC/DISM (Note: SFC did find corruption, but was able to repair it). - Completed any Windows updates - Removed all USB devices and checked one-by-one to see if any peripherals were causing the issue, unfortunately not... - Checked Device Manager for any hardware errors. I would say it is also important to note that SOME usb ports work on the back of the motherboard, the ones on the front of the case pass through power but no data (I can charge devices, but not read/write to them. The USB-C on the front of the case works perfectly fine. I have been trying to figure this out for over two months, and am to the point of replacing the motherboard, but that will take some time financially as I would rather just upgrade to current gen. If anyone has had these issues before, or could point me in any direction that may help, I would appreciate it greatly. Specs below: Lian Li O11-D XL Asrock B560M Pro4 (Vers. 2.30): https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/B560M Pro4/index.asp 11700K 4x8GB Corsair Veng. RGB Pro 6x Corsair RGB fans thru Node Corsair Node for RGB via internal USB 3x NZXT non-rgb fans TPLink Archer for WiFi/BT via internal USB NZXT (old-style [non-lcd]) 360mm AIO - (for which the USB remains unplugged as it is just for RGB control and this mobo only has 2 internal USB headers). Wireless KB/M/&Headset via USB dongles Windows 11 (Most recent version release).

Mouse, different DPI per axis, high very high, low, great. Razer Death Adder V2 and it is OK, well for me BUT.................................... I want to have "Y" axis frozen, Zero DPI I have done this with auto hotkey, x-mouse and it was OK BUT............................................... Windows respects my efforts and the "Y" axis is fixed and immovable until I need it back. The game, Second Life, just ignores my efforts. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr SO, I need a mouse that sends the correct data, "X" axis at whatever setting I set and the "Y" the same with the option to make it "0" Zero "cero" . OK; I have a bodge that works, Rollerball mouse and gaffer tape, and dust, and dirt and just so many memories of life before optical mice *sighs* SO, is there a gaming mouse, or a non gaming mouse that is game ??? Oh, I am trying to build my own right now but what my mind imagines and what my hands make are often quite different. If it works I will update, as to what it looks like, well, we will see!

Linus answers a merch message at 1:08:00 about SSDs but then Linus, Luke and Dan take a brief detour to talk about USB flash drives around 1:10:00. This came up recently on Ars Technica as well, from a report published by a German Data Recovery company, CBL. I wanted to add my two cents - what you buy on amazon is usually deceptive. The actual controller is often Phison. And who knows where they got the flash itself - used flash, rejected flash, etc. The internet usually has info. One other thing to watch out for: it can be a good USB drive, today. Then the manufacturer switches the internals without changing the product number. Silent downgrade. Tips - research the drive to avoid obviously bad ones. Grab a copy of ChipEasy or ChipGenius, it will show what's inside the drive. Maybe return drives as defective if you get one with surprises. Install an antivirus and try some of these lists for example: * https://usbdev.ru/f/index.php?topic=1791.0 * https://www.usbdev.ru/my-device/ Anyone else have tips on good USB drives?

As described in photo. I have that specific USB adapter which I checked previously and it works in other configurations, but when I try to join it with USB C to A cable nothing happens (both on PC and Android phones). I don't know why. I tried with multiple cables, with multiple sticks, and other peripherals but nothing works.

I'm wondering if there is a motherboard with 8 direct USBC4 2 ports, if not then USB4 1, if not then USB 3.2 Gen2 2×2, if not then USB 3.2 Gen2 1×2, if not then uhh USB 10gbs.

So i build a new pc, but im having problems in windows 11. So when i open windows 11 my blue usb stop working my wifi and bt works for a few minutes. My build is: cpu: ryzen 5 7600 mobo: msi b650 gamming plus wifi GPU: gigabyte Geforce 4070 storage: WD_black sn770 mvme 1TB Ram: T-force Delta ddr5 32g 5200MHz Cooler: nox Hummer m-360 argb Case: lian li 216 At this moment i already tried about everting possible like: update bios install the most recent drivers amd chipset drivers clear cmos remove controllers from device manager remove pc parts (like gpu ) to check for changes check if any usb is physically damage command line commands check if io shield is making short shorkits etc.. nothing of the above have worked. The only error that i found in w11 is error 24 in my AMD USB 3.20 eXtensible Host Controller that only appears when everting fails and some usb over current erros when i boot my pc. So can anyone help me with this issue?

Hello, so, windows on my wifes laptop crashed and now it is looping in the blue screen registry error screen. The windows repair utility didn't pop up, so I tried the windows install/repair from usb. I tried everything from windows self repair to the system recovery and restore, but it didn't help or did anything at all. I tried the command prompt disk repair commands from this vid (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ODt6w3LUqY&list=PLnTOtUDZtxGysQgPzYbjdt7m6UucbBVCZ&index=15) but nothing worked. I tried install a fresh windows from the usb, but I cannot format or delete partions - error codes 0x80042428 and 0x80070017, so I can't even reinstall windows. I also tried access the drive via external usb system Fedora 39. The drive appears normal and is readable, can access and open windows files. From there I tried the disk utility and format the disk from there, but there is also some problem (error wiping device: failed to wipe signatures on the device '/dev/nvme0n1p3' (udisks-error-quark, 0) I don't know what to do. It is intel nvme m.2 Intel ssdpekkw256g7 The laptop is Acer nitro 5 an515-51-7103 Thanks for any help!

Hey guys, I have a fairly odd problem: When I boot up my laptop, it does not take input from the keyboard. I need to disconnect the keyboard's wire and reconnect it to have my laptop finally receive input from the keyboard. This did not happen with my other keyboard which I only just replaced 2 days ago. The keyboard is receiving power during this. I know this because the keyboard does have wireless capability. When I have the batteries turned off with a switch, with the keyboard plugged in to the laptop, the laptop receives input when the keyboard is in wireless mode. This also does not happen with a different laptop. So it's an issue specific to just this keyboard when used with the specific laptop. TLDR: Laptop doesn't take input from wired keyboard upon boot. Keyboard is receiving power. Laptop does receive input from the same keyboard if the keyboard is operating in wireless. Laptop does receive input after disconnecting and reconnecting the keyboard. Issue cannot be replicated with a different keyboard or laptop. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Hi I have a problem with my PC.. I got new parts for christmas (switching from old Intel X58 Xeon to Modern Ryzen 2600/16gb Ram& Vega64. But there is only one weird issue: I have a USB 3.0 Drive from Intenso and when I copy files with my new rig it limits the usb speed to 2.0 meaning 30mbps transfer rate, when I plug the USB Stick into a second computer thats older with Intel I5 2500k the transfer rate is about 100mbps meaning usb 3.0 For Troubleshooting I tried: Different Ports on the back and the front/io Checking in BIOS if USB3.0 is enabled Formating the USB Drive to ntfs or exfat Formating my C Drive and installing a fresh version of win11 with all driver updates All of my solutions didn't work has anybody some ideas maybe why it is behaving in that way? Btw, sorry for my bad englisch greetings from germany! Specs: ASUS ROG B450F Gaming Motherboard Ryzen 5 2600@Stock 16GB DDR4@3200Mhz NVME SSD 240gb Vega Sapphire Nitro 64

I found this unusual usb thing under the driver’s floor mat while cleaning my car! I’m sure this is not mine and I’d rather not connect it to any devices. Any idea what this could be? Thanks!

Just built a new pc with the following parts: Gainward 4070 i5-12600k Gigabyte Z790 UD 2x8 Kingston GB Ram DDR5 650W Aerocool Lux Everything works mostly fine, except that sometimes when I boot up the pc, the motherboard's USB ports don't work properly, for example, audio is all robotic, keyboard input is late, mouse is the same, but sometimes it work's like nothing is wrong, I would really like some help, I can provide more info if needed, thank you.

Hi, I’m building a sleeper-kind of pc in a really old case. There are 2 front side usb’s and this is the internal cable (see picture). This is’t the usb 2.0 standard, the “filled” hole is on another pin. Is there any way I can plug this in? It can plug in half of my usb 3.0 mobo header but I’m no sure if that would be a good idea… anyone experience with this? motherboard is MSI b450m -A pro Max II EDIT: It's a Compaq Presario 5WV396 5000 series. If anyone knows if they have a special USB pinout or something, let me know pls. Thanks!

Hi, today I built a new pc but when I tried to boot it up I got the error "overcurrent detected in usb device! System will shut down after 15 seconds to protect your main board!" I have a ryzen 5 7600x MSI pro B650M-A wifi motherboard Corsair RM850e 850w power supply I tried booting with no usb devices detected, I check the usb ports and they all seem fine. I removed the motherboard usb connections to the front io. I tried resetting the cmos battery. I unplugged and replugged all cords from my psu. I don't really know what else to do other than contact MSI and hope they will send me a new motherboard. Is there any other options I have before that?

Before I get bombarded by "muh just use whatever you prefer" I can't sadly because I have some limitations due to the PC that the company sent out to me to work on. For starters, I need a pair of headphones, ideally earbuds, that are wireless. I cannot use Bluetooth to connect them to the PC as they do not allow me to do so in the group policy, so I am stuck with USB(USB A or USB C both work, I have ports available for both) wireless earbuds. Additionally, it is not necessary for them to have a microphone, I have a desk mounted microphone that handles that for me (Elgato Wave 3). Another reason I would prefer earbuds, is because I wear glasses the entire time while working, and anything that wraps around my ear or covers it directly causes a weird pressure that presses my glasses up against my head which I would have to solve by wearing my glasses all crooked. Battery life isn't the biggest concern because I would only be wearing one ear bud at a time while the other would be able to charge, this is mainly a preference I have because I like being able what goes on around me. Currently, I am using these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHVWJP7N (EKVANBEL Bluetooth Headset) and while it is not terrible, it is very hard to make it sit comfortably in my ear for longer than an hour and it gets even worse when I go from one ear to the other because the earbud tip itself is just not all that comfortable. Another small squabble I had was that it does take a little longer than I think it should to put on because getting that little loop around your ear just isn't as intuitive as I would like it to be. I have also tried this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C13ZK3LS (LEVN Wireless Headset) which also was not terrible, I actually like these a good amount, but I am not a fan of anything that is going to sit on my head for as long as 8 hours a day on really busy days. Plus that earcup was rather deceitful and did not include anywhere nearly enough cushion to not hurt the outer part of my ears after 2-3 hours of usage, I would often take it off for a small break and be surprised by sore ears. This was also what was causing that weird pressure against my head that would cause me to wear my glasses crooked, the problem I mentioned in the first paragraph of this post. I have started looking at some alternatives and was wondering if anyone has used any of these? And of course I am also open to recommendations. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BM23XX5L (Jabra Evolve2 True Wireless Earbuds) These seem very much perfect, but the price is a bit yeesh and I was curious as to if anyone here has tried them and could testify to their quality? And by that I mainly mean if there is any hassle when it comes to them connecting to a computer or if they are not as consistent as one would hope. The fit is semi important but as long as its comfortable for at least 2-3 hours at a time, no big deal and even then, I can overlook it to a degree as long as they don't cause me pain in my ears lmao. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B87MQG2N (Soundcore VR P10 Gaming Earbuds) These seem like a good option as well and significantly better when it comes to price. Although if opinions lead to "just save up for the Jabra's" then I would be able to do so, but if I could away without having to spend that much out right then I would like to. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B72HWWXH (LG TONE Free True Earbuds T90) These seem like a good middle ground between the Jabra's and the Soundcore's, and while they don't feature a USB dongle, they have the ability to connect the headphone case to a computer via a wire which would then turn the earbud case into a big dongle that charges the headphones as well. My main questions with these earbuds is how the connectivity is between the case, earbuds, and pc. I know LG has other models that have the same feature that turns the case into a dongle but these were the ones I had saved. So yeah, these seem like a good middle ground, my main concerns as always is just comfort and more importantly connectivity. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C32WZJ3N (ZDMYY Bone Conduction Headset) This is a bone conductive headset which is kind of a best of both worlds kind of deal where I wouldn't wear anything in my ears for hours at a day, but I also wouldn't have a big headband sitting atop of my head. The brand name leads me to think that these are just dropped shipped from Ali Express or something. Not inherently a bad thing, just makes me a little weary in terms of build quality. My main worry with these kinds of headsets is that they might get heavy feeling or uneasy on my ears, and I don't think they'll affect my placement for my glasses too badly and I don't see them bothering me too badly in that regard. And then another thing I am worried about that is mainly just with these, is how they might sound. I've never tried anything bone conductive before so it would be my first and a very new experience for me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQ1DJMV8 (Poly Voyager Free 60+) These seem like an alternative to the Jabra Evolve2's and while I have not previously heard of the brand, they do seem to be a little more prominent in the work from home/conference headphone space. And my worries are again in the same ballpark as with the Jabra's and the other headphones, so mainly worried about connectivity and comfort, sound quality isn't 100% necessary but would definitely be a positive. Honestly, right now this feels like I'm kind of searching for a needle in a haystack trying to find something that fits all my wants and needs so any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello to all who read the forum! I am currently building a pc and right now I am in the process of figuring out if I have enough USB ports on my motherboard. The HYTE Y60 uses 2 USB_3 (3.2 Gen 1) and my Lian Li Cooler uses 2 but I think it will only be 1 with the Lian Li Hub idk Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Minecraft, Fortnite, Rocket League PC Part List: Component Selection CPU AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor CPU Cooler Lian Li Galahad II Trinity SL-INF 61.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard Asus ROG STRIX B550-A GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Memory Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Add Additional Memory Storage Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Add Additional Storage Video Card Gigabyte AERO OC GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB Video Card Add Another Video Card Case HYTE Y60 ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply Corsair RM850e (2022) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Operating System Choose An Operating System Case Fan Lian Li Uni Fan SL-Infinity 61.3 CFM 120 mm Fan Case Fan Lian Li Uni Fan SL-Infinity 72.7 CFM 140 mm Fan Case Fan Lian Li Uni Fan SL-Infinity 72.7 CFM 140 mm Fan

I built this rig in July 2022 and bought all the parts around that time except for the case which is from 2015. This is my computer: Bought in July 2022: CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K Processor, 3.7 GHz w/ 10 (6P + 4E) Cores / 16 threads Motherboard: Gigabyte B660M DS3H AX DDR4-3200, 7.1 Audio, Dual M. 2, 2.5G LAN, Wi-Fi 6, Bluetooth, RGB Fusion CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO V2 CPU Cooler w/ LGA1700 Memory: ADATA XPG GAMMIX D10 16 GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Storage: Western Digital Black SN850 1TB NVMe M.2 PCI-E x4 SSD Power Supply: Corsair RM White Series RM750 80+ Gold Fully Modular ATX Power Supply, 750 W OS: Was on Windows 10 Pro Retail then upgraded to Windows 11 BIOS Vers: F6a Temperature: constantly around 20°C Bought in 2015: Case: Fractal Design Define R5 ATX Mid Tower Case I have built computers with my friend and this is our 6th build together and this rig has been problematic. Here are my issues: 1. Whenever a peripheral (not keyboard or mouse) plugged into any USB port (front (Case) or back (motherboard) and properly disconnected after use, the computer would shut down after 4-6 hours. 2. Shutdown is random and without warning. It would display “shutting down” message: Once shut down, the power button on the case will not allow me to power on the computer. It would need to wait for around 2 hours before the power button can power on the computer or the computer may try to turn itself back on but then immediately shuts down at random. 3. If the computer does power up, the boot failure message from BIOS will show Selecting either option 1 or 2 will allow me to boot to Windows with no issues. 4. Once the computer has randomly shut down once, it will randomly shut down even without any peripherals connected to any USB ports. Keyboard and mouse have stayed connected at all times. The computer would not be able to keep itself on for as short as 20 minutes and as long as 90 minutes. Once it shuts down, it will return the state in step 2 to 4. 5. The problem can only be resolved if I reset the computer via Windows (full deletion of all files and reinstall Windows (either via USB or cloud). The problem will occur again whenever I connect via USB port. What I have tried and the problem persists: Since the problem occurred while it had Windows 10, I have upgraded to Windows 11 I have replaced the power supply unit with another The set up is originally plugged into a power bar, but I have plugged into the wall socket and also used a different power bar. I have also tried plugging into different wall sockets in my house. House is 60 years old but had undergone renovations 15 years ago so the wall sockets were also installed at that time. I have detached the RAM and try booting one stick at a time and in different slots. I have detached all hard drives. I have replaced the keyboard and mouse. I have used different USB peripherals: Different cables to charge phones or other mobile devices USB drives Hard drive docks USB hub I have taken out every component within the case and reseated it twice. Computer is left on all the time and the power management settings are set to not shut down. Computer is set to restart itself if it shuts down. This problem did happen before I bought the new parts with my old rig but my old rig was 8+ years old and the processor was running slow so I thought it was time to build a new one anyway. Initially, the computer worked fine until I started using the USB ports. If I reset the entire computer (full wipe), and not use any USB ports (except for keyboard and mouse), the computer would stay on. This shutdown issue is with or without any of my external hard drives attached. I don't have any lose or extra wires either. I first brought it to the computer repair shop and dropped off all the peripherals that I usually used. They only identified that the USB hub as the culprit in shorting the rig. However, I only used the USB hub after this shutdown problem occurred so I am certain that it's not the hub. The shop was only able to resolve the BIOS failure message by selecting the Windows boot. I brought it home and plugged in my usual USB drive in the front panel of my case and ejected it as usual and it started doing that shutdown cycle again. I brought it back to the repair shop and they have tried updating and rolling back BIOS and the problem persisted. Burn test and mem test revealed no issues. The repair shop then said it may be the motherboard, but then later said it may be the AIC connectors on the front panel of the case. They bypassed my case and used the front panel of a different case and the computer has not shutdown for 5 days but they also did not try attaching any peripherals yet which I am getting them to try this week as this was the trigger to my issues. Their suggestion is to replace the connector as "workaround" to turn on the computer at will since the power button of my case will not be used but my concern is keep the computer on and I am unsure if this workaround will help. I did see this on another forum with the similar issue: https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/pc-is-randomly-shutting-itself-down-and-several-hours-later-starting-itself-again.291075/ Any advice on what I should do?

Hello Guys, this is gonna be a tough one. I am facing two Problems that are probably connected by the same issue. So lets start with some Info about my System. Asus Z790 Hero, Bios 1501 i9 13900KS, direct die cooled G.Skill TridentZ DDR5 6400 RTX 4090 Strix OC Full Custom Loop 1. Cooler Master HAF 700 Controller in Back of the Case to a internal USB 2.0 onto the Motherboard. 2. Aquacomputer High Flow Next, connected to the other internal USB 2.0 header. Fan Setup Case: 2x200mm Front Fans, 2x140mm Rear Fans -> Haf 700 Hub -> PWM to CPU_FAN Fan Setup Radiators: 8x140mm Fans -> Deepcool Fan Hub (powered by Molex) ->PWM to Chassis_Fan1 Software: CoolerMaster MasterPlus (for Front Display / RGB) SignalRGB for all my RGB obviously Aquasuite to monitor my Water Temp / Flow First Problem: I am running a Custom Loop in my PC in a HAF 700 Case by Cooler Master. Couple Months after use, whenever my PC idles for too long i get some USB Connection issues with my two internally connected Devices. Now, whenever i started to idle my PC (happened only once while gaming), my Aquacomputer Device would just start connecting/disconnecting very fast a couple of times, until the sound stopped and my device was no longer visible. One Time i moved my Mouse after idle and i got an USB Overcurrent Message on Win11 and could only Reboot. First Picture: all normal after Reboot. Second Picture: After USB disconnects. Now, i already checked my Cables to the Haf 700 Controller and the Aquacomputer High Flow Next, and after a reboot it is all connected again with no issues. Normally it wouldn't be a big Problem, but i am using this Device to Monitor my Flow and Water Temperature. Second Problem: My Q-Fan Controls in Bios work for hours at best after reboot, then my Fan Speed just locks to 900RPM on Chassis_Fan1, and 600RPM on CPU_Fan. Sometimes even 300RPM for both. I have no clue which Software meddles with my Fan Speeds or why my Bios does not control the Fans anymore. I did use Fan Xpert 4 by Armoury Crate that never worked / lost control but i got rid of that Software by now. Fans are set to monitor CPU Package Temperature and Auto-Detect for DC or PWM Mode. I need to get these Speeds under Control reliably, otherwise my Water Temp rises to 45°C in Summer without me knowing. Thats why i also use my Alarm that the Aquacomputer HFN has on its firmware. Now to what i already tried: -Updating Bios to Version 1501 -Enabling High Power Energy Profile / disabling USB Suspend -Uninstalling the Cancer Armoury Crate ( with their official uninstaller ) -Disabling Tasks one by one to try and find what takes control of my Fans I cannot use the Fan Control Software on Github, because it sometimes completely freezes my PC when it idles for too long. Don't ask my why, the Problem disappered after i stopped using it. But that shows, there is some major Problem that links my two issues together but i can not find it. This is one of those things you just cannot google. This PC has been built in March by me and was running reliably for a while. Software is pretty clean, only MasterPlus was needed for the Display and Armoury Crate i uninstalled. I dont' know what to do. I need all of you Anthonys out there to find this one

Hey all, first time poster so forgive me if this is the wrong section. I am trying to figure out how to connect a Poly Eagle Eye IV USB camera to a Poly G7500 that is on the other side of a 150ft+ room. If I run the cable with a non-active USB extension to the g7500, I worry about running up against the distance limit for USB. What do people recommend for this type of run? This is for work, where I have suddenly become the interim A/V manager with only basic experience as the last guy got canned. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks! Links: G7500 Product Page: https://www.poly.com/us/en/products/video-conferencing/g/g7500 Eagle Eye IV USB Product Page: https://www.poly.com/us/en/products/video-conferencing/eagleeye/eagleeye-iv-usb

Been playing around with the HM50 from minisform that I got on Ebay around a month ago. PC was never used, just open box condition. Took out the preinstalled SSD that had windows 10 and put a 500gb Samsung evo nvme ssd with Linux Mint preinstalled on it from my UM350. All was good until my keyboard stopped working. I unplugged it from the rear usb, to the front usb. No issues at all. Same with my mouse. It appears the rear USB ports stop working after 10 or so minutes. I disabled USB legacy support in the bios, thinking that was the issue, but it still bugs out. I then installed Manjaro over Mint, thinking Mint might be the issue, but again, rear ports stop working after awhile. What could be this issue? While in BIOS, this issues never happens, so it has to be something software related correct? Typing lsusb shows that the drivers for my logitech keyboard and mouse are loaded and running properly. Any help is greatly appreciated.

My phone is rooted, so I technically do not need ADB for anything, there are usually better ways to do something. Unfortunately, for file transfer, ADB appears to be the most reliable and fastest way to transfer files, by far. Unfortunately, my phone has a problem, the option to enable USB debugging is there, but it does not stay on. It turns itself back off immediately. Either a Magisk module isn't working right or something else is up. I actually did boot into safe mode and ADB and USB debugging work in safe mode. I guess now is the time to debug what does not work. Do I need to post more information? Any idea on what is causing this?

I have a laptop that does not have an Ethernet input, but I have a stationary computer, can I connect the laptop to the computer via USB and thus have Internet access via a cable?

I mean before purchasing, one option is to look it up on YouTube, but is there any other way? So far, with my next to zero knowledge I've come to the following conclusion: Less than 50 bucks = microphones pickup background noise easily Higher than 50 bucks = microphones do not pickup much background noise I highly doubt this is accurate, but it's what I have seen from videos

Hi, I'm looking for a USB Portable Toolbox something like Windows PE or whatever. My goal is to have a USB Stick that I can use to stress test computers without installing anything on them. I need to test Both GPU and CPU at the same time for a maximum load. I can't find anything relevant on google. Thanks for your help.

Good Morning, I’ve recently took the challenge of building my new PC completely by myself with the little knowledge that I have and YouTube for the extra help support. I have a MSI MPG B650 Edge WiFi Mother board, RTX 4080, AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D, 64gbs DDR5 Ram, Samsung 990 M.2 SSD. I have my GPU drivers up to date, my Ram speed is optimized, my CPU drivers are updated, and my motherboard has been flashed and updated to latest bios. Anyways, I’ve been having an issue with my USB ports front of the case and rear aswell, the power to them will cut out and on randomly while gaming and when I Alt Tab to go to my second monitor it will start bugging out and disconnecting and connecting again. I’ve done research and tried everything that I can think of or find to try and nothing has worked for me this far. The main step I have done so far to try and fix is going into my device manger and making sure all my usb drivers are update and it still hasn’t fix the issue, I’ve also unchecked where my pc can turn off USBs in Device manager to save power. I’m wondering if I could’ve hooked something up wrong or maybe I got a faulty mother board. Anything helps, Thank you!