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Hello! Due to an extended power loss my NAS lost power during raid scrubbing or shutdown process (dunno which). Side note: I have an UPS hooked up to it, but my auto shutdown timer was set a bit too high value and my UPS ran out of juice. Resulting in something getting scrambled with my hardware RAID5 and NAS not booting up. I have PuTTY access to my NAS and the status LED is blinking green, after i somehow managed to get it a little less messed up (At least i hope so.) . I don't want to use something like ReclaiMe RAID software to rescue my files. Because, it takes forever for it to even find all my files and then reinstall my NAS from nothing if that's at all possible to avoid. Before i even knew i could accidentally trigger resync, i ran "dmesg" and it triggered it and completed successfully as far as i know. Before resync, 1/4 HDDs was showing "Active" status in "mdadm -E /dev/sdc3" and "clean" in the rest of them. Now all 4 show as "clean". This is what i have tried so far, in the order i tried things(Pastebin links to results): After i somehow got the damn thing to boot without blinking red status LED, i pressed the "Reset to factory defaults" button in web GUI, in hopes of it allowing me to get to QOS to fix the RAID array. No such luck, since QNAP in their infinite wisdom requires at least 1 working HDD with QOS installed on it, which is on the broken RAID5 array -.-*. I can't just use some random HDD for QOS either because the RAID tool in QOS requires all RAID discs to be installed. Which is impossible with my 4 drive setup, unless someone knows how to fool the system to think that an USB HDD is an internal one and thus allow installing QOS on it. dmesg (Right after it no longer booted up and was flashing red status LED) The rest of these are after resync. mdadm -E (HDD 1-4) mdadm --assemble /dev/md1 /dev/sda3 /dev/sdb3 /dev/sdc3 /dev/sdd3 - This errors always. mkdir /share/NAS2 - No problem there mount -t ext4 /dev/md1 /share/NAS2 - Got error again: wrong fs type, bad option, bad superblock on /dev/md1, missing codepage or other error. In some cases useful info is found in syslog - try dmesg | tail or so. cat /proc/mdstat + mdadm --detail --scan + mdadm -D /dev/md??? umount - Tried that for md322 and md256 after i still didn't get the array to mount, no luck. cat /proc/mdstat - I used that to check for the resync progress. tail - I have no idea how to use that or it doesn't work on my NAS I forgot the commands for these, but i also tried to use backup superblocks and to stop all services before using "assemble" again after it errored out. Edit1: lsblk: command not found Edit1: fdisk -l Edit1: fsck: command not found Edit3: Ran lsblk on Ubuntu machine with the drives from my NAS - Results Edit3: Ran fsck on Ubuntu machine with the drives from my NAS - Results Edit3: Ran fdisk -l on Ubuntu machine with the drives from my NAS - Results Edit4: ReclaiMe - Result After my Google-fu failed to get me detailed enough answers to my specific problem, this is what i have gathered about the problem so far: - I have no hardware failures or problems. - I possibly have something wrong with the superblock and i haven't been able to use the backup ones. - There are 2 RAID1 arrays, which get created on each startup. This may have something to do with factory reset. Do i need to delete those and if so, how do i do it? - The resync probably helped, but according to Google it may have messed up things beyond repair? - I have little to no knowledge about Linux, so using common sense and according to info gathered with mdadm everything looks good, but is it? My NAS (for fast reference): Model: QNAP TS-451+ HDDs: WD Red 6TB x4 RAID5 + External USB3 enclosure with some 128Gb Kingston SSD with Windows 7 installed thru Virtual Station for TeamSpeak3 server and for easy NAS management via TeamViewer. Firmware: 4.3.3.0.4.0.4 Factory reset done after RAID failure (The option specifically said that no data would be lost.) PuTTY access only Edit2: I May have messed up the drive order when i tried out ReclaiMe RAID software. Is there a way to verify which order the drives should be? If any info is missing from the post, i'll add it as requested. If i have understood everything correctly, all i need to do is to get the array assembled and mounted without errors and then save changes to mdadm.conf. (I don't know how to do that last part at all.) Seems simple but as i have mentioned above, it just isn't happening for me. SO then, how do i get this thing working again, without losing any data or having to buy enough HDDs to dump all my data into and reinstalling my NAS from scratch? Again, im an a total Linux NOOB! So please explain everything in detail! Thank you!

So guys i have been trying to overclock my I56600K on my Asus H110m-a/m.2 motherboard and i have partialy succeded but the story never ended as i wanted it to... CPUZ = 3580-3597 mhz | 36x (8 - 42) My multiplyer just stays on 36x, in best case scenario i got 37x and even 38x 2-3 times when i was changing bios cpu core settings but eventualy i dont remember them and ended up here. Any guides or tips i shoud be aware since i am doing this few days and the result is the same. I am aware of knowledge that H110 motherboards can't overclock(or this is a lie (btw, thats why i am trying to OC)) but i just cant accept that since this is my old computer and i want him running even better than before. Thanks in advance. Jhonny from Serbia Dubai TOLPIT Senior Software developer

Hi, yesterday my MSI GTX 970 Gaming died. Is there any chance that i can repair this (by myself) or should i just buy a new gpu?

I was playing street fighter V (story mode) and completed the first chapter with no problems, everything ran smoothly (60fps+) at max settings 1080p. specs: gtx 960 2gb, 8gb ram, i7 6700, 500w power supply. But then a cutscene started playing then the game suddenly froze though the audio continued playing normally (It always freezes at the beginning of this cutscene but not on the exact point), so I exited the game using task manager and ran it again with task manager open my second screen: this is before it froze: this is after (I could still hear the audio)

after moving my recent build into a new case i bent some pins on the motherboard for the front panel has anyone ever attempted to bend them back and to what success did you have

So I just got home from a short trip to Nepal and decided to boot up my laptop. When I tried to plug in my mouse, it didn't work. I tried another mouse, and even my oculus rift which had worked the last time my laptop was on. Both the USB 3.0 ports and the 2.0 port are not working, and the SD card reader isn't doing much either. I tried messing with windows updates but that didn't seem to help. the laptop is an msi GS 73VR 6 RF. I'm pretty tired at this point. Help?

So I upgraded to windows 10, and I tried to play fallout 3 goty but it just instantly crashes whilst loading. I can go through the launch box where you actually click play and change graphical settings, but I'm unable to do anything in the game, it runs for 0.25s of the intro and crashes, is there anyway to get this game to work on windows 10 or is it just impossible? Any help is appreciated.

Hey guys, Recently bought an 8700k and it just got to me today and much to my heartbreak it does not seem to be working. My mobo is an MSI Z170a gaming M5 and I was upgrading from my 6700k. So I being a noob initially thought it would be as simple as installing the cpu as I did the 6700k. After I fired it up, everything turned on for half a second and then turned back off. Post code was 00. I read up and realised I had to reset my CMOS. However, on this board there is no dedicated switch so you either had to pull the battery and let it drain or jump the pins. Both of which I did...multiple times. I even pulled the ram and unplugged my ssd as some random forum post suggested. Still nothing. In the midst of it I resintalled my 6700k afew times (man do I hate repasting and cleaning for hours on end). Everything worked fine and it also noted the bios resets I manually did. So now I'm in a pickle. Do you guys think the CPU is bad? Any further info you need to assist please let me know. Would like to get this sorted ASAP. Thanks in advance.

Any ideas how to fix that annoying sound for good? (there's an attachment to this thread) In the room the usual temperature is 23 degrees C, I opened the window to let some fresh air and the room temperature dropped to 18C. Outside it's snowing and it's cold. And the fan on my 950 from Gigabyte started to make that noise as soon as the temperature dropped in the room. Now I say this because that's the only thing that I did to it, I haven't touched it in a while. Now it's back to normal, but I also stopped it a couple of times with my finger and somehow that fixed it, at least for now. I have no idea if that fixed it or that the temperature went back up was what fixed it. Any idea if the drop in temperature could've caused it or how to fix it for good? Besides the obvious of replacing the cooler/fan. WP_20180322_019.mp4

I transported my desktop back from university yesterday. All was fine before leaving however when setting up everything at home there is no output from the GPU. The fans are spinning on the card, I've tried reseating it but to no success. Currently the computer will output from the motherboard dvi (suggesting the GPU is broken) At uni I was using a mini display port to DVI cable for my main display, here I only have DVI and HDMI. Could that be the cause? Or has my GPU suddenly died? Thanks

Please guyz help me windows is not starting where is the problem please help me to fix!?

I recently cleaned my room the other day, along with cleaning my computer. I have two monitor speakers (M-Audio AV32) that I use to play music and games etc. and would work just fine. Now after I cleaned my computer(clean off dust in the case and fans etc.) I put it together and plug in my speakers as normal. It would not recognize the speakers/audio jack and wouldn't play any sound. I waited a day now when I got home and tried plugging the audio jack back in the computer, I received flickering of the speaker icon. (Shows no sound icon to sound while on a loop) Can I get any suggestions on what I should do to fix this problem? All help is appreciated!

Ever since i reinstall Windows 10, my PC startes to reset unexpectedly as of someone was pressing the reset button. This occurs randomly whether i was playing games or at idle listening to Spotify, temps are also normal. I'm not brave enough to work on important priject on this rig just because it can resets randomly and deletes my unsaved files Pls give me a solution

I recently got done building my gaming PC and everything else has been working fine but it says I only have 48gb left on my Samsung SSD (Samsung 850 EVO 250GB SSD) even though I've only downloaded about 25-30 gigs of stuff so far out of 232 as it says, if any of you could help that would be great!

If any of you are having sound issues on the Google Pixel phones, please send them a bug report so we can get this fixed FINALLY! My wife an I are both using the Pixel, and both have the same issue. Ringtones and Notification sounds will not work at random, with the volume on max and do not disturb disabled. A google search turned up thousands of other forum posts of people experiencing the same. I contacted Google Customer Support, and they are aware of the issue, but do not have enough data or bug reports to help them solve it If we all send bug reports WHILE experiencing the issue, it will help them to determine what is causing it. ****Pay close attention to step #8 below**** You have to wait until you have the issue, and then WHILE having the issue, take a bug report. Then, contact Google customer support via Settings>Support>Contact us>Chat or Phone. They will open up a case # and send you an email so you can reply with your bug report. Thanks for the help. Lets make the Pixel great again! LOL On your device, go to Settings > About phone or About tablet. At the bottom of the screen, touch Build number seven times in quick succession. You’ll see a message saying you’re now in developer mode. Press Back to go back to the main Settings screen. Touch Developer options. At the top of the screen, make sure 'Developer options' is set to ON. Check the box next to USB debugging. Check the box next to Bug report shortcut. Reproduce the issue or error message on your device. It’s important that your phone or tablet logs at least one occurrence of the problem. Immediately after seeing the issue, press and hold the power button until the power menu appears. Select Take bug report, then select Report in the dialog that follows. After a significant delay -- up to two minutes -- your phone or tablet will vibrate and display a notification saying ‘Bug report captured’. Touch the notification to open Gmail with the report attached. Email the message to yourself so you can access it on your computer. On your computer, access your email and open the message you just sent to yourself. Download the bugreport.txt attachment.

When i start the pc i get flashes in the ez debug leds. The leds flash on CPU and dram. The leds should stay lit but they just fladh in a pattern. My specs are: MSI z270m mortar Intel i5-7500 Corsair vengeance lpx 2400MHz 8gb MSI gamingx geforce gtx 1060 6gb Here is a video of the ez debug flashing:

So, i was not using my pc for about a month because i'm away. So as you guys expected the dust is clogged up the system. I tried to turn it on at first, but nothing happens. Then i cleaned the whole pc. After cleaning, the pc still won't turn on. I swap the ram slot , not change I disconnect my gpu card, and it turn on. I'm currently using the onboard graphics card and it's killing me. Is there any way to fix it? I checked the gpu, nothing burnt, i cleaned and applied thermal paste several times in the past. MY pc is : Pentium G3240, Asus H81M-E (From some prebuilt), 8 GB DDR3, 1TB WD Blue, and XFX 7750. i know it's old, but it helps me a lot. thanks.

My Steelseries rival 300 has recently started having the double click problem (double clicking when i click it once and sometimes stops when i hold it down). I don't really have enough money to buy a new one (and I am so attached to the steelseries rival 300 that i don't want any other mouses) so I wish to try and repair it. I will probably first try to open the switch itself and turn the contact plate to a better position. This is only a temporary solution and I want to buy new switches for it. So first of all can I see the switch type from just looking at it, and if I can't, does anyone know what switches does it use? I looked around and saw a video of someone changing the switch and he used the Omron D2FC-F-7N(10M or 20M) This will probably work on it, but I just want to know if the switches 'feel' the same as the original steelseries switches? Switch changing video. Switch repairing video. The switches on ebay.

Ok, so yesterday I bought an used GTX 960, which was told to me that the product was damaged, it gave and output, but then the screen turns black, so I tough it was the fan. Now I have it here, I installed it into my pc and didn't post at first, because of the Bios, so I updated, it work correctly, but because I needed to install my Wireless card I turn it off... after installing it the pc won't post, so I suspect it is the 960 because the vga led is light up in my mobo (tried removing the battery, and removing and adding the 960 back again)... the things that I need to change is the fan, because it's not spinning, it tries when I try to boot the PC, so I'm wondering if putting the 960 into a oven would fix the card, so it can at least post... and I'm asking for any other ideas... My specs: Mobo - Asus M5A97 Evo R2.0 CPU - AMD FX-8350 RAM - Corsair Vengeance 4 x 4GB PSU - Cooler Master extreme 2 725

Avast Antivirus and Reimage Repair say I have a ton of broken registries and "unstable programs". Lately, Windows has been crashing a lot. What should I do about this? I'm guessing a clean install of Windows is in order, but I'd rather leave that as a last resort. Any help is appreciated

Hey guys so on my pc (specs) RX 480 nitro 4gb 8gb basic crucial ram i5 6500 VS550 s2h h110m gigabyte 1tb wd blue corsair 350d corsair 100r This PC is pretty good and when i first built it around feb 2017 it ran games perfectly compared to other benchmarks of similiar specs etc but recently i have noticed really bad framspikes noticible screen tear and note thefps drops are only really bad when moving mouse in games (looking around) same with screen tear and also games that ran perfect a while ago run terrible now? i recently switched to ultrawide which has worsened the issue but playing on 16 9 still has the issue note that a couple months after pc build mobo died and was replaced but it worked normally after that and now im getting issues i checked afterbuner osd and everything seemed normaly other than fps and i dont know where to start in troubleshooting note i windows reset my pc which fixed it a tiny bit also the issue was bad when i started using display port for freesync (sidenote while using freesync didnt have monitor driver installed correctly as it said generic pnp but i have now installed it with hdmi) but even with freesync enabled didnt fix tear there is alot more info but i dont even know what to do im just lost so i really appreciate any help thank you! this may sound all over the place because it is driving me nuts haha.

I have been runing through all my machines updating and I am getting something different when running the verification in powershell provided by Microsoft on my 5960x everything is looking ok all enabled and true but when runing the same commands on my Lenovo X230 with Ivy Bridge I end up with PCID set to false as shown bellow. I did see a twitter stream where there was talk that pre haswell CPU's don't have PCID https://twitter.com/aionescu/status/948609809540046849 the its in the first few replies then someone else says that they do have it. Has any body else with an ivy bridge CPU had the same issue. Windows OS support for kernel VA shadow is present: True Windows OS support for kernel VA shadow is enabled: True Windows OS support for PCID optimization is enabled: False

Hello, I recently have been having trouble with my custom built PC as it has on at least three separate occasions blue screened, within the past 2 months. I am uncertain as to the cause and I am in desperate need of advice as to how I should proceed with fixing the problem. My current PC is an upgraded version of my first custom built PC, the components are listed below. Some additional information; every once in a while whilst using my PC, simply running Chrome will take up about 70% of my CPU usage. On random occasions my PC will simply be using a substantial amount of CPU power, all spread out amongst various background tasks that are then currently running. Furthermore my PC will on occasion get very high CPU temperatures, I don't know if that is necessarily cause for concern as I have been told that Devil's Canyon CPU's tend to run hotter than most other CPU's. In addition I have attached images I have taken of the blue screens, all of which have different stop codes. I'm looking for any advice on how to solve the problem, whether it be a diagnosis, a solution, or simply a means to help me find the cause of the problem. Thank You Component List: Intel - Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor Asus - MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Corsair - Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory NZXT - Kraken X52 Liquid CPU Cooler Kingston - HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 HYBRID GAMING Video Card Corsair - RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

So my font looks kinda weird in google chrome than from what i used to have , i got a new pc like 4 days ago and it's been like that.

Looking to get a new monitor and found this post. https://imgur.com/a/dBbES. Acer XB270HU. This is the perfect monitor for me but says that it get this random thing happens but most of the time the monitor works fine. Have not heard back on how long this has been happening after purchase or if he was trying to overclock it. I did a little bit of research and saw some suggestions of it could possibly be the cables or some settings that could be disabled but unsure. Wanted to see if anyone else has had experience like this or if this is worth the risk. says it doesnt happen very often and when it does, pressing on the back of the monitor fixes the issue.... not sure what that means though