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Hi, So i am having some trouble researching a good solution to put my rack in a different room. Mainly since my PC is in there. What i need to pass to my other room (about 40m cable length away): -2x 4k 144HZ video -4x USB high speed (Needs to be high speed for external SSD's sometimes and capture cards). The video isn't really the problem since i can get fiber HDMI cables that i use for work and know will work, but i am having a lot of trouble finding good high speed usb extenders. a fiber KVM extender seems to be a good solution however these get compression issues in my experience on the video end, and for usb only these would be an expensive purchase. Any tips on cost effective ways to get this usb over to my other room? Motherboard is the EVGA classified z690, i do not have pci-e space to spare.

Commercial recommendations for a network run at 1000 feet? Have a few cameras at the far end of our baseball-softball fields, both for security and for live streaming games. These are at 1000 feet from our IDF. Looking for commercial recommendations to either run GameChanger cable from Paige (vendor recommendation), through a switch somewhere in the middle or fiber the whole way? PROS/CONS and other foreseen pitfalls? After leaving our main building conduit has been pre-ran to light poles and concession stands. None of which are very well isolated from the elements, but we have put network racks in our concessions stands/press boxes. Thanks for any input provided.

I will be adding networking to my garage that is like 30-50ft away. I've heard direct burial rj45 is not advised as lightning/etc can damage all the equipment, so i have two options i could do [and am willing to do, to stay within unifi, which i'm comfortable with], and I'm curious which you all would choose OF these two. (also a question or two in red.) Option 1: Main house router (already have in house basement) - UDM PRO (Q1) Fiber, Direct attach cable (30m, to connect UDM PRO to Switch in garage) - https://store.ui.com/us/en/pro/category/accessory-tech-cabling/collections/accessories-pro-direct-attach-cables/products/10-gbps-active-optical-cable?variant=uacc-aoc-sfp10-30m (Q2) Housing/protection for the buried fiber - ??? (I hear people use "smooth wall", but i don't know if a individual consumer can buy that without paying extraordinaire amounts; is there anything yall would recommend? i hear flexible pvc (schedule 40) won't stop water from going through, so i assume that's not good for fiber. Switch for in garage (where majority of devices will be connected) - https://store.ui.com/us/en/pro/category/all-switching/products/usw-pro-24-poe (Q3) I assume not, but do i need one of these Optical Module's, for the UDM pro and Switch's SFP ports? (Or no, since the cable above says "SFP+ to SFP+ connector") - https://store.ui.com/us/en/pro/category/switching-addons/collections/accessories-pro-long-distance-modules/products/1-gbps-bidirectional-single-mode-optical-module or https://store.ui.com/us/en/pro/category/switching-addons/collections/accessories-pro-long-distance-modules/products/1-gbps-multi-mode-optical-module ? Option 2: Main house router (already have in house basement) - UDM PRO Building bridge - https://store.ui.com/us/en/pro/category/all-wifi/products/ubb ethernet surge protector - https://store.ui.com/us/en/pro/category/wifi-building-bridge/products/ethernet-surge-protector Switch for in garage (where majority of devices will be connected) - https://store.ui.com/us/en/pro/category/all-switching/products/usw-pro-24-poe I assume option 1 will be cheaper, the fiber cable isn't that expensive, and unless the shielding/protection it needs in the ground is crazy expensive, i assume it would be cheaper but more manual labor intensive than option 2. I was worried about latency with the building bridge, but on videos i saw they were only getting like 5ms which mine is about the same. Please, Help me with Q1/Q2/Q3 please, and which option would be recommended between the two options, i would greatly appreciate it. Please understand, I am only slightly network literate, and that i would like to stay inside the unifi ecosystem, even if i'm paying more.

Hello, I have advertised 8500/1000 speeds with fiber coming to my Nokia 10G Ont+ box, after that it's plugged to sfp 10G udm pro se, after that from 2.5gbe port to trendnet 2.5gbe poe+ injector to my u7 pro. With galaxy s24 iam getting max 2002Mbps download 1586Mbps upload, on my pc I can get 7000Mbps 7200Mbps range download, my s24 ultra running on 320mhz wifi 7 6ghz, what can cause it not getting 2500Mbps speeds? Maybe client devices? There's is 2 15 pro max also in house. THANK YOU

In my quest for a G-PON to RJ11 and RJ45 converter, I came across the UISP Fiber XG on the Ubiquiti site. However, it seems to only support RJ45 and not RJ11. Given the necessity for an RJ11 connection in my setup for calling purposes, I'm reaching out to the community for recommendations on alternatives or if there are other products that fulfill both requirements. I've attached a picture for your reference. Your expertise and advice, especially if you've encountered a similar situation, would be immensely valuable. Thank you for your assistance!

Currently on hold with Cox, but I feel like the LTT community will be 10x more helpful Currently running on Cox 1Gb fiber. Everything is "okay" so far, except for my roommates down in the basement. We are 5 people living in the same house, but some have issues with the internet. I was looking to buy a modem and a router but then realized that I would have no coax to hook up the modem. My question (as stated in the title) is, does the ONT box, that was installed by Cox, work as the modem? Could I just plug in a router, set it up, and have running wifi? I'm looking at the ASUS RT-AX82U currently, but I also don't see it on the Cox website as a "certified" device. Thank you all in advance.

Hello! I'm having a problem and I can't find any old topics that'd help. My PC was connected straight to a fiber optical router (Halny HL-4GMV4) via cable and I recieved 40-50MB/s of download speed (which is what the internet provider is promising) and all was well. Then I moved to another room in my house. An old router was connected here already through the attic (via cable of course) but I knew it'd be too slow so I changed it to something newer (TP-LINK Archer C6) which promised 1GB/s download speeds but all I'm getting is... 10MB/s download speed now once I connected it to my PC. As far as I'm aware (if my provider would provide me that much speed) I could even be getting up to 100MB/s in theory. 10MB/s isn't bad, it's just less than I expected. The cable connection goes from the LAN port of my Fiber Router straight into the WAN port of my new router. Then from the new router to my PC. My question is: Where did I mess up for my internet speed to be lowered like this? Is this a connection issue/router setting issue or maybe I got something else than promised? I'd appreciate any help you could give me. A (hopefully) helpful diagram is located below for y'all.

Hello I'm kinda stupid when it comes to networking and fiber. I'm moving in to a dorm in about a week, and I want to set up wireless internet. There is one RJ45 plug in the wall with (presumably, because the DSL copper network has been permanently shut down in my country) fiber internet. I bought a small D-Link wireless router and plugged it in, but it didn't connect to the internet. I immediately felt stupid, thinking It obviously didn't work because it was just a simple router and not a multimodem combined router and modem. In the instructions manual it also said I needed to plug the router into a separate modem. We used to have a separate modem and router set up at home before DSL was shut down, and now we have wireless broadband over 5G at home through an antenna connected to a wireless router. I just want some clarification because I don't really know what I actually need to get it to work. The internet already works just by plugging a computer directly into the wall, so do I need the modem part if It's fiber? I ordered a TP-LINK ARCHER VR400 Modem Router, but do I really need it, and would it even work since it's designed for DSL? Thanks for any help

Roughly once a month, any device connected to my router through an ethernet connection drops from its normal ~300Mbps down ~100Mbps up to ~8Mbps down ~5Mbps up while maintaining a high connection bandwidth to any device on wifi (~150 down on 5GHz. Which is the same even when ethernet is working correctly). The only way I've found to fix this issue is to reboot the router, which is fine, but id rather not have too as I do host a few things and I'm not always home to be able to reset it when the ethernet drops off a cliff. I find it really strange that ethernet is the connection type that draws the short straw here. So, I guess my question is, is this an issue with the router its self, like a hardware fault or a memory leak? And should I get a different one? Router info for those interested: Model: AC750 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router: Archer C2 v1 00000002 Firmware version: 0.9.1 5.0 v0032.0 Build 170207 Rel.49213n Country of origin (since I think this matters?): New Zealand

Hi all, I need help planning an outdoor run for a UniFi Access point. It is going to be on the side of my deck in the backyard. I am planning on running a direct burial ethernet cable 18" below grade parallel to the 240V power for the hot tub (which will be run inside a PVC conduit) On the side of the house there is a PoE switch which powers PoE cameras that I am planning to pull from. What I am worried about is the possibility of a lightning strike hitting the ethernet cable in the ground. There are not many trees around, but with a hot tub full of water near the access point I figured it could be a possibility. I would run fiber to the access point, but that would mean I would need to put an additional power outlet on the deck to power the converter which would not make much sense since the outlets near the house are only about 30 feet away and because of how expensive wire currently is. The way around this that I thought of is to put an ethernet to fiber converter behind the PoE switch. In essence this is how it would go: Main Switch in Rack ---> Ethernet to Fiber Converter ---> Fiber to Ethernet Converter ---> PoE Switch ---> Direct Burial Ethernet Cable ---> WiFi Access point The Fiber would isolate the outdoor devices from the indoor which would limit the chances of anything in the rack or connected to ethernet from being damaged during a lightning strike. The only problem I see is the Fiber converters would be plugged into the same UPS as the outdoor PoE switch. I am not sure if that defeats the whole point or if that does not matter? Total run is about 125ft long from the orange to the purple in the map. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hello, this is my summarized Home Network Diagram. Hardware Used: 1. Wiring - CAT6 UTP Cable with Closed Ended RJ45 (Self Crimped) from Fiber Modem to Router 2. 2. Fiber Modem (ONT) - Huawei EchoLife HG8245H with 4 Gigabit Port 3. Unmanaged Switch - Tenda SG105 (with 5 Gigabit Ports) - Connected via LAN 2 from Modem and Connected to Passive PoE LAN Port 4. Passive Gigabit PoE Injector and Splitter - Generic (see attached image)- PoE to PoE connection using CAT6 UTP around 60 meters length with some running on outdoor wall (far from powerlines and other electronics) 5. Router 2 (Upstairs Router) - Tenda AC23 - Gigabit WAN and LAN ports (AP Mode connected via WAN from Passive Gigabit PoE LAN port) Additional Hardware (No Issues) 6. Router 1 (Downstairs Router - besides Fiber Modem) - Tenda AC21 - Gigabit WAN and LAN ports (AP Mode connected via WAN from Modem) Issues: Configuration 1A - Current Setup. With my current setup, the link speed recognized by the Fiber Modem on LAN 2 is 100Mbps Full Duplex Mode. Connected to the Router 1, the speed test (using Ookla) reading (using 5GHz Connection via Android Phone) Exceeded 100Mbps, around 150Mbps+ (Internet limited plan to 100Mbps). Connected to the Router 2, the speed test (using 5GHz) does not exceed 100Mbps around 90Mbps at best. Configuration 1B - Current Setup after a Power Outage. Currently the Modem Reported 1000Mbps Full Duplex Mode (due to power outage, all routers restarted) but readings are still similar Configuration 2 - No Gigabit PoE With PoE injector and splitter remove, connected directly to Switch and Router 2 (still Port 2 and WAN) the Fiber Modem reports 100Mbps. Results are similar to the Configuration 1A. Configuration 3 - No Switch Connecting Router 2 (WAN Port) to Modem (LAN Port 2) via Straight CAT6 resulting to the router and modem disconnecting and connecting with a span of seconds (5 seconds at most) with link speed reporting between 10Mbps and 100Mbps Full Duplex Mode. But when the connection is stable at best it is reporting 10Mbps. Tried using Crossover CAT6 using Female to Female RJ45 and Additional Crossover CAT6 with less than 2meter length. Configuration 4 - Connected to Router 1 Connecting Router 2 (WAN Port) to Router 1 (LAN Port 2) via Straight CAT6 resulting to consistent connection with readings at best of around 9 Mbps. Assuming the link speed would be 10 Mbps. No Reporting of LAN Port link speed on the firmware. I would like to know some solutions to my network to use 1 Gbps link speeds for full capacity of the routers, as well as future proofing. Thank you for your help and responds.

So my middle of nowhere town made municipal broadband an option and I am going to make the switch this month. I currently have broadband cable 1Gb down 50Mb up through a private company, but want to switch to the 5Gb up/down fiber plan through my township. So, I need a whole new network setup I assume. Im assuming they provide the all-in-one wifi/router, but I will have to get a 5Gb network card for each pc that would want the extra bandwidth? Also if a 1Gb switch is in the chain, anything plugged into that switch would be limited to 1Gb? I tried looking for a 5Gb all in one router (I currently have a Netgear XR1000 as the router/wifi and a Netgear R8000P as an Access Point) but I came up empty on newegg and amazon (I did find some 2.5Gb routers). Am I going to need some prosumer grade stuff at these speeds or would my ISP have something and just let me buy it off them? Thanks for any help and advice on setup/equipment. TLDR: I want 5Gb throughout my property, need new stuff, plz help

I recently upgraded my internet plan with my ISP and I got a 300Mb/s fiber connection. What I noticed is that my laptop only supports up to 100Mb/s ethernet speeds, so I want to get a USB ethernet adapter to use. The question is: Will a USB 2.0 Ethernet adapter, plugged into a USB 2.0 port on my laptop, be able to support the full speed of my plan?

I recently switched from 1Gig Comcast to 10G Sonic fiber (for less $ per month too). I want to see how baller this can truly be, so I upgraded my router to an ASUS RT-AX89X because it was (2) 10 Gig ports that can both be configured as WAN or LAN. I also installed a 10G NIC on my PC. Despite this I'm only getting 1.6G / 0.9G max. Here's my config: 10G SFP+ NIC in motherboard's PCIe port > 10G SFP+ DAC cable > ASUS RT-AX89X 10G SFP+ port > ASUS RT-AX89X 10G RJ45 port (configured to be WAN port) > Cat6 > ISP ONT 10G port. Any ideas why I'm unable to achieve nearly 10Gbps speed when running a speedtest? Another weird note, not sure if it's part of the problem, but my router thinks the closest server is on the east coast while I'm sitting here on the west coast (North America). Same on Ookla. When I force it to a more local server, it performs even works with double the ping. What do you think, docs?

Hi guys, I got a bit of an odd situation. I have several locations that are too far apart to connect them with ethernet cables but individuall they do not require a large bandwidth (100-200 Mbit max. I expect). So Im in need of a switch that has many SFP ports and few Ethernet ports (ideally at least one of them 10G) but the usual application is the exact opposite. Can anyone recommend me a switch like this if it exists?

Not for gaming for AI. Having more ram available to a large language model would be big business. background: For AI workloads there is a cool way to double your memory with an Nvlink adapter. Source https://discuss.pytorch.org/t/is-there-will-have-total-48g-memory-if-i-use-nvlink-to-connect-two-3090/100378 Two 3090's effectively gives you 48GB to work with in AI workloads only. 4090's don't have nvlink and are limited to 24gb. Which means 2 3090's is cost effective at loading bigger ai models. I know sli is a stutter mess for gaming. But from reading It works with AI (haven't tried). But running inference (not training) a large language model might take closer to 800GB+ of VRAM. You can run on GPUs with VRAM, a CPU+ram, CPU+SSD storage of some combination. But to get stuff like this to run at a decent speed it need Vram and GPUs. Buying the GPUs with Networking jacks built it like 80gb a100 is going to like $16000 each according to Ebay. Could some kind of Nvlink to fiber adapter (aka media converter) be made in theory? Does it exist but I'm calling it the wrong thing? I say fiber because the nvlink adapter has " 56.25GB/sec of bi-directional bandwidth or 112.5 GB/sec". Is this the type of thing that requires hacks like the cypto hash rate limiter. Maybe the bios/drivers need hacks (not sure which it would be). I believe there is a niche in the market for people who want to run large AI models for cheap like hobbyists and maybe researchers with out the biggest budget like the developing world. It would consume more power and run slightly slower but be less so much less initial cost per GB. it's a difference of like $200 a100 per GB vs $33per GB on 3090 a GB on used hardware. And AI is big business. Surely there is enough margin for someone to try and develop the tech. Would it be a law suit waiting to happen? I think a Chinese tech company could get away with it, spying concerns aside. I want AI to be more accessible to your average, or at least in this case well off nerd. Sometimes the tech company's let people type to the AI in a walled garden, occasionally they release the model. But only the rich can afford to run a lot of stuff. There is some cool stuff you can run on your computer like stable diffusion. It generates images from your words. Also small language models. I'm not well of enough to afford all these 3090s. I just wish it existed and the barrier to entry was lowered.

Hi yall, I am trying to help a friend get an internet connection from a neighbor since the ISP refuses to do a run to his house. The closest home that would be willing to share their internet connection is about 1500ft away, and I'm trying to figue out what the best way to accomplish this would be. I already looked into MOCA adapters, but it seems that the best those would do is 300ft. Right now I'm looking into fiber but I just wonder what the best solution would be. Thanks!

I live in Florida, and I've seen enough devices die from lightning strikes, so I'm prone to look into fiber for many of my devices, but I don't know where to go for a good SFP/SFP+ 10G PCI network card for my desktop. Any recommendations?

Hello ! I have heard about Ubiquit's products for a while and was trying to get better network hardware for my house. My ISP gave me a HUGE box which is an all-in-one box (router, switch, AP) that I would like to replace with something more compact, more powerful and with many more administrative capabilities. This box has a SFP+ Simplex Fiber SC connector where my internet comes in. Since this would be my first hands-on experiment and I am not a network expert, however I do understand well the concepts, I would like to ask for some advice. From what I understand I would need a router, a switch and some APs. The following are my current selection so far: Router - For the router I am considering the UISP Router. Would I be able to connect my ISP's fiber cable to this piece of hardware given than I use a correct SPF+ adapter? Switch - For the switch I am thinkin of the UISP Switch I can see that the router and the switch both have RJ45 connectors. Is a switch really necessary? Can I just connect my wired devices to the router's RJ45s? AP - For the access points that I want to deploy at my bedroom and living room I am considering the In-Wall HD I would appreciate if somebody could shed some light to the configuration drafted here. I am most worried about being able to connect my fiber cable to any new hardware I buy and get internet connection. I would appreciate if we could keep the conversation only related to Ubiquiti's hardware.

Hi, first time poster here. I would like to have my computer in a different room (heat in room is kinda annoying). My current computer is a Maximus Hero 9 with 9900K (so no TB4). I'd like to know which cables to use (honestly I saw it for the first time on the ltt video). I have two of these cables for the Index and the monitor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V7NOYDI?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details and they work great. Unfortunately, i need a data connection, probably using a dock in the office because there needs to be power for the VR headset and other devices such as headset and camera. Here are the questions I have: Should i get a USB-C PCIe card? If so which one? Anyone know of a good fiber USB-C cable? and anyone know of a usb c dock that does not send power back over the USB-C cable (but that can take in power for devices connected to it?) Thanks! T.

So I want to set up my PC out of the room like Linus does. I've seen his 1800 dollar fiber optic hubs but also saw him take the CalDigit TS4 home with him so what does he use that for? Wouldn't it just be way cheaper to run a thunderbolt 4 cable through the walls and get a Thunderbolt dock rather than the whole fiber optic system. What are the benefits to fiber?

We recently got Jio Fiber and my uncle is complaining that his safe Google Safe Search setting is Locked On in his Android VIVO mobile. He says he was able to turn it off/on while on the previous broadband internet connection. But on my phone and my account, on the same jio fiber connection I can turn off/on the safe search setting. I also tried logged on uncle's Google account in my phone, and I'm able to turn it on/off. So that means it's not an Google settings issue. But again, when he uses cellular data on his phone the safe search is unlocked and he's able to turn it off/on. So I'm really confused as to what's the issue.

I currently have a 60 down/5 up mbps VDSL line for my home internet, connected to: AVM Fritz!Box 7490 VDSL modem (German brand of modems with VOIP built-in) 16 port basic Gigabit switch Unifi UAP-AC-LR Access Point QNap 1 bay NAS drive Asus PN50 (AMD Ryzen 4300) mini server with OpenMediaVault for plex/docker/development servers All my computers and devices are connected with 1 gigabit connections, and wireless is provided over the Unifi 5GHz network. According to my local testing most of the devices are capable to reach my local network with speeds above 300-400mbps, I've done the testing with the LibreSpeed speedtest docker image (a locally hosted speedtest server to test your local network internally). My S21 Ultra smartphone can connect to my local network at around 400-500mbps, my 7 years old workstation laptop can connect with around 300mbps, gaming PC with wired gigabit can easily surpass 900mbps. In around a week I will be getting a fiber FTTH connection of 300mbps, are there any changes I should make, or things I should add to my network to have a better high-speed experience? I want to benefit from the new high speed for online gaming, 4k streaming and most important have some reliable online backup for my home workstation, I currently do local backups on the NAS and removable HDD which are always at risk.

Hello. I will move into a new apartment of 59 square meters and will have a fiber signal of 1000/1000 Mbit / s and wonder which router is best for this.

Hey everyone, I could really use the communities help with this one. I am a professional video editor who deals with a lot of data transfers online. For the most part that happens with domains such as Youtube, Vimeo, Google Drive and Frame IO. My computer is a M1 MacBook Air with 8 gigs of RAM and 512gig SSD (later this year I'm planning to upgrade to a MacBook Pro M1 Max with 64gb of RAM but this is what I'm using right now). I have a 1gigabyte down and 500mb fiber internet connection and use a ISP provided Huawei hg8145v5 Modem/router/AP combo. I also have my Mac configured to use Cloudflare DNS. Currently, when using a direct Ethernet connection (with the official Belkin Ethernet adapter (https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HJKF2ZM/A/belkin-usb-c-to-gigabit-ethernet-adapter) to the modem and right after restarting my computer, I get 939 down and 520 up using the app version of Speedtest connected to my local ISP server (https://www.speedtest.net/my-result/d/406192609). And hey, I'm not complaining about those numbers, that's pretty great. Problem is with real world usage. Usually when uploading and downloading from Google Drive for example, I'm rarely able to get those kinds of numbers and if there's one company who I should be able to get my full speed from, its Google. Now, I've already ordered a Ubiquity U6-LR access point (as well as the POE adapter) so I know my wifi is going to get an improvement but I'm still afraid the hardware on the Huawei modem is limiting my internet speeds and is costing me time and money. That's why I'm considering also buying a Ubiquity UDM Pro to act as a router and leave the modem acting as only a modem. Thing is that it ain't exactly cheap and would take a big chunk out of my savings and budget. If it's really worth it I'll bite the bullet but if it's not going to make that much of a difference, then it'll be a purchase for a later date. Any tips, suggestions and recommendations would be highly appreciated. Also, would you guys use Cat 5e, 6 or 7 ethernet cables to hook the modem to the Ubiquity Access Point?