NotSoEpicMods

Ya I would consider bent fins slight damage but any damages to the channels running the length of the rad I would def try and return or exchange. Better safe than frying your hardware if it decides to leak later.

Not really an update so I’ll just tack this onto here. I should be receiving my Christmas gift to myself tomorrow and let’s just say my wallet is still recovering and will be recovering for a long while. Will be posting some pics when I get it.

That setup will work some will say the rad fittings being on the bottom will make it very hard to bleed but as I see it there will always be one half of the rad that needs to flow against gravity. Also don't forget to account for your pump/res since the cpu block doesn't have a pump like the AIO. Also you need a minimum of 2 fittings per water cooling item an inlet and an outlet. You may want to consider a drain port as mentioned but if you make the reservoir easily removable you could technically get away without a drain/fill port.

iirc there were support bars which allowed a 360mm rad to fit in the top of the case while keeping the 200mm fans where they were. Not an LTT vid unfortunately but this is what it looks like.

Some of the most common recommendations will be either the noctua NF-F12 or bequiet silent wings 3. I personally have used the actic cooling bionix p120 which are nice but can be loud at full tilt of 2100rpm but you can tune them down to 200rpm with pwm control.

I just want to add to @Jumballi try switching which end the cable is plugged in as well. By that I mean take the end that is currently plugged into the monitor and plug it into the gpu and vice versa. Learned that in a recent LTT video that display cables can actually be directional *shrug*

What are your cpu core voltages before and after moving the ram? If you just raise the multiplier and don't adjust voltages who knows what the auto voltage settings are doing. As for moving the ram idk if that would change any of the settings to lower the temps. I know some mobo bios will think of ram channel change as a change in hardware and reset the bios settings.

To add to what @Lobstar said. I would just take the radiator out and make sure water can freely flow through it since that seems to be the source of your problems.

Not exactly sure what you're asking here and you pictures don't exactly give a lot of information. First thing first, that bios CPU temp is not normal even if it was an offset temp sensor it doesn't seem right. Looks like you're using the Corsair pump/res combo which has a pwm pump which should be plugged into a pump header on the motherboard but for testing I would plug it into a fan header adapter pulling power directly from the psu so it will run at full speed. Iif that doesn't help temps I would double check the cpu block mount make sure proper thermal paste spread is achieved.

I agree with @Jumballi make sure you have some good airflow over those VRMs. Also keep an eye on your voltage when stress testing an overclock. You can accidentally get a high core voltage even though it's a small overclock.

Could you not move the BD drive down to the bottom 5.25" slot to allow for a 360 rad with the fittings at the rear to fit in the top of the case?

They're probably trying to ride the AMD hype train and increase their profits. Never heard of Falcon Northwest Tiki. Edit: I would go for system 1 if you want a prebuilt.

Let me share a few things for you since I have used 2 gpus to run separate monitors on the same pc. Any 2d programs shouldn't have an issue stretching across the 2 "displays" meaning web browsers, most video players, and file explorer types windows will work. Once you load up anything that has to render in 3d aka video games for example. Windows will want to run that on what is set as your main "display" not sure about other OS' though. That being said freesync/gsync will likely function on the main "display" only. As for performance benefit you probably won't notice much in most normal circumstances and only reason I did it personally is that it was cheaper to buy a second cheap gpu than it was to buy an active display port adapter at the time.

Ooo I have that mobo in my main rig build, it'll serve you well. Looking nice and clean while you don't have a pic of the cable management at the rear the front looks nice(which is usually what matters). Also that's a good idea leaving the film on while you're moving.

Ah ok didn't know EVGA had issues with their blocks. I know fitting clearances can be a pain with rads, just finished checking clearances in my own build after lots of measuring and re measuring. Is there no room behind the rad or mobo tray to run a tube to the back so the top rad can have the fittings at the rear of the case?

Well with Noctua you're paying for known quality and their legendary brown fans.

1: I like to get the largest radiator that will fit in the case with good quality fans on them meaning pressure optimized ones. 2: Bitspower are from what I come across as the go to fittings. Remember by using fittings instead of bending tubing your cost of your loop is going to go up quite a bit. 3: Sorry I don't have experience with the stock drain and fill ports but just because they're there you aren't forced to use them. 4: I like EK blocks. Use their configurator on their site to see if your gpu is listed in their compatibility. If in doubt their customer support staff are helpful. (used them when selecting a block for my 2080Ti)

What type of ram did you switch from and to? Also your mobo is probably still trying to apply the old ram settings so maybe try a clear cmos?

I don't have any personal experience with that cooler but it sure looks beefy enough for the cpu and seems to have some good reviews. Also you should have 7mm clearance between the case side panel and cooler. One thing of note is you probably don't need 4000mhz memory. I would probably try and get some 3200-3600mhz ram for cheaper. Intel doesn't benefit near as much as AMD does with ram speeds currently.

I think just helping people in general makes most people feel good. It at least makes me feel good.

Like @TempestCatto said you're going to have to budget for a different case if a 280 AIO isn't enough. The difference between the h115i and the TT Floe Riing is going to be negligible. Maybe even try increasing internal case air flow with your current AIO.

According to this: https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/6/ The EK XE360 is one of the bests rads out there. That being said there's a lot of factors that contribute to total cooling performance including thermal paste, pump and fan speed etc. As for if it will fit what I would do is get the case first if you don't already have it and install any parts you have or make cardboard mock ups then measure the clearances. That's what I did for my personal build and one of my new rads just barely fit but I knew it would cus of the measurements I did before hand.

AIOs will have their limits like outlined in the LTT video With a CPU like that your budget should really account for a robust cooling solution. If it were me I would either delv into custom cooling or a top tier Noctua air cooler. If you're still really set on an AIO I would buy one with the largest rad area that you can fit. Maybe something like the Corsair H150i?

Looking good so far too bad about amazon they've been screwing me over as well. Anyways that top rad does look quite awkward any reason a 420 rad won't go up there? Also not sure why I didn't notice it before but why no full cover block? You seem quite concerned about your cooling so was just wondering the reason.