suedseefrucht

If you are fine with 60-80 FPS, you don't really need 180 Hz.
With the RTX 3060 I would go for a 1440p 75 Hz 27 inch monitor.
Personally I use the RTX 2070, which has about the same performance and I bet you will never want to go back to 1080p.

I didn't even know you could open a prebuild, replace components and still get warranty.
I mean... If you install bad components and it stops working, it's your problem, right?
 
Can't you go to the store where you bought the PC and return it in person?
This way you wouldn't have to pay for shipping.

I didn't even know you could open a prebuild, replace components and still get warranty.
I mean... If you install bad components and it stops working, it's your problem, right?
 
Can't you go to the store where you bought the PC and return it in person?
This way you wouldn't have to pay for shipping.

And I can promise you, you are wrong.

It's not about a single person, it's about each and everyone they CAN get info on whether it's for the simple purpose of breaking in or for other, more nefarious reasons by "Others" you wouldn't know about.. Until it's a done deal.
Typically a person by themselves aren't worth it as you say but again, it's not about a single individual because there just isn't much worth there, the worth is in numbers and a computer can amass a large number of people in a very short amount of time.

And the amount of effort to hack a home isn't that much at all vs what could be gained by doing it, making it a profitable thing if such starts happening.

Remember back when chipped keys were new and a thing?
Not anymore - Security keys to a vehicle these days can be bypassed/faked by someone with the right skills and hardware with ease, it's the same for keyless entry remotes and so on.

Point is with the technology we have these days, doing what looks like a big deal is more of a triviality, flick of the wrist if you will in effort and that's about it - That in turn makes doing such profitable even if done on a small scale because it takes so little these days to get it done.

https://www.adobe.com/creativecloud/file-types/image/comparison/tiff-vs-png.html
 
So again, check with your printing company about whether they print in RGB or CMYK.
If CMYK, you will need to edit the file as CMYK, so that you can see the difference in color & vibrance, and modify as needed.

Yeah, the PNG just got done - it suddenly moved way faster in the last 10% or so - and the result is a 964MB file. I don't know what it did right at the end to make the file so much bigger, but it means the PNG probably won't be viable unless you up the compression. While it took way longer, PNG would be better, as JPG compression artifacts tend to be more noticeable.
 
I think smaller stripes will give you a better result in the end, as you can get an image with fewer compression artifacts to fit within the size requirements. Best of luck!

I'm glad you found another way, because my computer is still exporting that PNG as we speak. I could cancel it, but I'm interested to know how big the file is gonna be. It is currently at 274MB and it look like it's about 80% done, so maybe it'll end around 400MB or so? Still within the size requirements and using less RAM, but man does it feel like this is taking an eternity...

Yeah, just cut it up smaller if you need a really high dpi print.

They deliver the wall paper in 50 cm wide stripes anyway, creating the stripes as seperate images one by 1 should be a good idea.
Thanks!

My computer's got 48GB of RAM and a 5900X, so I can try to create such an image. GIMP was none too happy about it at all - even with that RAM, it felt like it was on the verge of crashing regularly. It kept saying "(Not Responding)" in Task Manager. Just changing the color of the 47244x47244 canvas took quite a while. Exporting the image as a JPG actually maxed out my system's RAM, which has never happened for me under a non-synthetic load before. The PNG export took a very long time - it isn't even done yet, at about 50% or so - probably because that one is a single-threaded operation. That said, the PNG export didn't use nearly as much RAM - my system was only sitting at 24.7GB usage for most of it, and that's with my browser open taking up a couple of GBs itself.
 
The map of Europe I used was this high resolution one from National Geographic. I put it into GIMP and scaled it up to the same horizontal resolution as the canvas. Then I exported it using each format.
 
The resulting JPG of a map of Europe at 90% compression was just 170MB. The PNG export is still in progress - I'll edit this to let you know what the result is when it gets done.
 
So it is possible to export a compressed file that will fulfill the size requirement using the 600DPI at 2 meters size specification. Your 16GB of RAM is gonna be pushed to its limit just by having the image open, though - hopefully your page file is on the M.2 drive, because you're gonna need it if you attempt this.
 
If you have an image in mind, I could try to do it for you in the hopes that my computer can handle it, and share the result with you using Google Drive or something, but I can't guarantee success even with my system.

A ton of system ram

Dunno there, but in my country atleast, usually you create a smaller file, which is then enlarged before printing.
They usually lower the DPI level to meet their max file size.
The more HQ the image component(s) is, the less details you lose when it's enlarged.
But yeah, the more HQ each components is, gonna add a considerable amount to file size.
Unless it's a vector.

Like when I want to print a 3m x 6m backdrop, I'd create a file as close as possible to the max file size.
Like example : 100cm x 300cm at 450dpi.
Because big size printing usually used for banners, which is usually hanged somewhere high and/or far.
The loss of detail (the blur) by lowering the DPI is only noticeable when being observed from up close.

Other way to preserve the detail as much as possible is to create it is by printing it in cuts, then you stick each cuts.
The trouble is when its time to stick it to the wall, because you will need to align it yourself.
You need to measure really well, and they also have to cut it really well.
This way each square(cut) can be printed in high DPI.

Did you plug your monitor into the GPU or the motherboard's rear io?

Mice are not universal. You have to find something that fits you. Do you have big hands? Do you like to have a thumb rest. Do you like light or heavy mice? Logitech is good but sound advice from @Senzelianyou have to shop around some as well with other brands and figure out what fits you.

Hoenstly the go to answer is to just buy a Logitech mouse you like. Personally I like the G403. 
They are recharble with a USB micro B cable and last a between 2 - 5 days, depending on whether you use the RGB lighting or not.

But I recommend you check out a few mice at your nearest Media Markt or Saturn. Might sound boring, but considering you have to use the thing for likely a few years, you wanna make sure it fits your hand.

if anything connects to the internet when it very clearly doesn't have to (lights, switches etc), then yes, you're doing a "smart home" wrong.
if you're relying on someone else's servers to keep your home "smart", you're doing it wrong.
if you have to pay a subscription for basic functionality just for the privileged of having an existing thing made "smart" then you're doing it wrong.

Usual home automation lost my interest very eary, simply because there will be a big company storing all the data about my home. If some bad guys get access to this information, they can tell, who is on vacation and plan robberies. And it's worth the effort, because you would get the data of a very big number of homes.

So if I build a home automation by myself, it's unique and very unattracktive for hackers, because it's just one home. And I know exactly, what happens to my data.
 
Also yes, we have to pick wisely, which things to automate and which not.
You will always have to think about a worst case scenario. There should always be a simple way to turn on the lights and the heating, in case the system fails.
And there are things, I wouldn't automate at all. Like opening doors to access the home.
So when there is an unexpected problem,I will still be safe.

This code (it's not mine) supposed to be timezone independent, that is getTimezoneOffset for.
 
EDIT: Finally I found my friend online who lives in different timezone and he confirm that it working (shows my time instead of his).

Do you have a graphics card? Which one? 
 
For air cooling I like the fractal design torrent compact/nano. 
 
Which cpu cooler do you use? 

The 3 pin connector with the gap is for your motherboard's addressable rgb header.
Don't connect the VDG connector. Just hide it somewhere.
The cable will make your fan controllers ARGB software controllable.

So, I saw this but still don’t fully understand, currently only PCI_E1 and E5 are occupied with GPU and Network card.
The M.2_1 slot had the M.2 Card which isn’t mentioned in the disclaimer only M.2_2 (although I had tried it in both).   
From my understanding of the manual
The E4 will be cancelled out by M2_2
E2 would be cancelled by E5
And E3 would be cancelled by E6
 
The setup which didn’t work was
M2_1, E1, E5 (although without M2 works) (E3 and 6 are both empty)
 
If you could provide a bit more clarification on where issue comes from that would be greatly appreciated.  

The motherboard's HDMI/DP connectors shouldn't work without a CPU with internal graphics.
Which connectors does the graphics card have?
If one of them doesn't work, try the other ones. If you pick a connector for a second monitor without a second monitor being configured, there will be no display output.

Here are some benchmarks... https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-12400f/17.html
So the 10700 should be about as fast as the 12400F even with DDR5.
And both only give you about 5 % more FPS in games compared to the 10400F.

The higher the resolution, the more important the graphics card and the less important the CPU.

So to sum things up:
1. Get the 1440p monitor and check it out with your current setup. Probably enjoyable 60 FPS.
2. If you really get 100 % CPU load when gaming, get the 10700
3. In 3 years sell your complete build and make a whole new one with all the new stuff and RTX 5000 series (or something like that) because in these 3 years you saved a lot of money by not going for early DDR5 and you should be able to build a very very good build and your patience pays off.

Here are some benchmarks... https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-12400f/17.html
So the 10700 should be about as fast as the 12400F even with DDR5.
And both only give you about 5 % more FPS in games compared to the 10400F.

The higher the resolution, the more important the graphics card and the less important the CPU.

So to sum things up:
1. Get the 1440p monitor and check it out with your current setup. Probably enjoyable 60 FPS.
2. If you really get 100 % CPU load when gaming, get the 10700
3. In 3 years sell your complete build and make a whole new one with all the new stuff and RTX 5000 series (or something like that) because in these 3 years you saved a lot of money by not going for early DDR5 and you should be able to build a very very good build and your patience pays off.

So your build is not even 2 years old and you want to upgrade pretty much everything, including a graphics card of the same generation and the monitor.
To me, this looks like a waste of money if you sell all your old parts for cheap, because they are used.

FPS is just a number and you might not even notice a big difference, so here's my idea:
Get a 1440p monitor and connect it to your current PC. You will probably get about 60 FPS in most games. It should be pretty good already.
So feel the experience and think about, if it's worth to spend 1000 $ for a number, you won't really notice.

Personally, I use an i7-9700 and a RTX 2070, which is pretty much equal to the 3060's performance, for 1440p gaming.