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About fredrichnietze

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  1. sholda hired Madison @LinusTech. or like used wood stud mounting stuff with a screw. hand held drywall saws are just as quick after a bit of practice and a lot easier to cut accurately with, and you can use cat 5e/cat6 for the speaker wire, it has better insulation and the one cable has 8 individual wires so you can double up cables or run multiple speakers off one cable. its also fairly easy to get plenum grade cat 5e/6 fairly cheap. and if you want to drill a speaker hole without a mess use this https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-40-200mm-Adjustable-Recessed-Sheetrock/dp/B075P23D9X/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=adjustable+hole+saw+drill&qid=1599503537&sr=8-7 it looks flimsy but works surprisingly well. after you cut let it sit for a minute pressed against the ceiling so the dust can settle, its like a blender in that dust shield. stud mounting https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Backed-Mounts-Nova-Supply-Professional-Grade/dp/B06XNBS6TG https://www.amazon.com/100-6-Strap-Harness-Anchor-Attaching/dp/B07YQ5FSGD
  2. i had/have the logitech g930 which is "wireless 2.4gz" but can only connect to their provided dongle and has unfixable firmware issues causing connection issues. for some unknown reason, unlike most of their products this can not be flashed or upgraded with new firmware and has a stupid number of connection issues you would expect from a new company with a alpha product "we'll fix it in the next patch ship it" but somehow they fucked up patching. cant give you a good recommendation but heres something to stay away from.
  3. heres a basic sketch https://imgur.com/a/a8efks2 you will need a drill press, special glass drill bit (how to use), 2 strips of steel or aluminium about 1/8 thick 1-2 in wide and the length of your panel, rubber tape, metal drill bit, and two hinges to have the door swing. i would also suggest doing a simple magnetic open/shut https://imgur.com/a/CQFsZqt and after you drill all the holes and test fit, you can spray paint it all black and i will blend well enough. cleanest way to do the screws is by threading the steel/aluminium strips, but you can achieve similar results using nuts and bolts, but you will have visible nuts on the outside, and need flush screw heads.
  4. if their is a lightning strike near by you will have issue with the insulation of 5e not being enough. also if you have 50 feet of 5e outside plugged into cat 6 going another 100-200 feet to the server room you might have cross talk issues. neither length by it's self is a problem combined you may need a repeater, at which point it would be cheaper to used cat6. also dont forget to drip loop and seal everything.
  5. i would suspect the wire before the port. i do this kinda of thing for a living, and we find bad cables all the time, and bad ports a lot less often. cables get moved around a lot and suffer more abuse then the ports, and your cable is barely able to do 1gbs at short lengths. upgrade it to a new cat6 and if it continues to be a problem then suspect the ports.
  6. cat 6 is good, flat cables like that generally are not as the insulation sucks. round cat6 has a divider inside of it that insulates the wires and is made out of thicker material then 5e.
  7. so cat 5e can go gigabit in ideal conditions over short distances, but this sounds diy and not short distances. 5e is very vulnerable to cross talk, a lot of manufactures cut corners with the spec. their are a lot of common mistakes people can do that will cause cross talk. if you left service loops, the your loops of copper wire with low voltage going through it is causing electromagnetic interference, unless you left figure 8 loops. the spec requires 1/2 in of wire coming out of the cable for keystones and patch panel, and the cable end to be inside the keystone. also the more cables you have running next to eachother the more inference they are all getting, especially if they are touching high voltage. high voltage will have more shielding then 5e, but it's creating a lot more interference, especially if it isnt metal shielded cable. try from modem to a laptop with a cat6 then start moving from point to point to your router, switch, ect find the drop point. then you might want to take a look at your wiring maybe replace with some cat6 or get a professional to take a look. also you can do 100 megabit with only 4/8 wires connected you may have bad connections somewhere.
  8. you can run 300 feet of cat 6, but 5e has less insulation and noise isolation and will have signal degradation at that range which may be a big deal if you are trying to get gigabit wifi some day, or high resolution cameras, and outdoor rated is essential. also i would suggest poles, or underneath building overhangs. trees grow also i would suggest protecting the wifi from the elements at least to a degree. somewhere the rain wont get it. and i cant stress the importance of drip loops in the pipes and wires, otherwise water getting in them could end up in your basement or wherever the pipes run to, which could kill your network, and cause flood damage. for the cameras, they tend to be built a bit tougher. you can run your pipe to a outdoor box like what your isp uses, then seal it up and mount the camera to the box with a bit of drilling. you get a water/bug/sun ect proof box and no wires or ports exposed to the outdoors, just the part of the camera that has to be and is built for it. you cant put wifi inside these boxes unfortunately or you will get a Faraday effect.
  9. cat5e only supports gigabit up to a certain range due to cross talk, and if the wire has a service loop, it may be longer then you think, and the service loop may be introducing crosstalk. the keystones may also not be done right with short 1/2 in wires from the sheathing or the sheathing being outside the keystone introducing more cross talk. since we are talking about a 40 year old cable at this point, it is also possible it dried out and the cable sheathing has since cracked somewhere along the line introducing cross talk. easy test is to take the pc(or a pc) and connect it directly to the router downstairs with a good short cat 6/5e cable and see what speeds you have. another potential issue is if you have a ton of coax splitters and ports around the house it may be the signal from comcast is weak and those unused ends need to be capped. the splitters are often hidden in walls behind coax ports and the only real way to test it is with a signal strength verifyer which is stupid expensive, and cheaper to get the comcast guy to take a look as a last resort.
  10. residential electric is the wild wild west. how many things on that circuit and how much voltage it can pull is a big "?!?!?" until you get a electrician to take a look. if something passes inspection it is "to code" until you renovate/rebuild to a level requiring re inspection, so your wiring may be 10, 30, 50, 100 years old, how old do you think the house is? basement? but hey you try it and maybe it flips the breaker, so what? powerline ethernet works, but the more power and data you are trying to push through those lines the worse cross talk and speeds you will get. you could run a wire from the wall port your modem/router is plugged in down to the basement in the wall, through the ceiling and put wireless there or run it through the ceiling/across the ceiling to the room these pcs are in. residential wiring is less standardized then commercial, so it is hard to give more specific advice without seeing your house and knowing where everything is. but it's a lot less scary then it sounds and a lot of places dont require pulling a permit or licenses for this kind of thing. the carrot to this is potential gigabit line direct to your pcs downstairs depending on what type of lines and how many you run.
  11. wireless + cameras is never a great solution, and wireless extenders + cameras isnt going to work well. the best way is to run outdoor rated cables with drip loops from a central point in the house to cameras with a dedicated line for each camera, and dedicated lines for wireless access points. depending on budget and how much coverage you want, you could place more or less wifi access points outside near/on the house or expanding outward. i would suggest unifi/ubiquity as i have used them before and they have a lot of nice features and good ui for a good price. linus recently did a video on some of their high end access points. if you are running a lot of cameras it will be cheaper and easier to use power over ethernet (POE) via a switch to power the cameras/wifi then to get a electrician in there to do a lot of work. ideally you would dig a channel for the wires and run pvc or some other pipes to run the cables through and protect them from shovels, animals, weather, ect then pop up where you need a camera/wifi like a sprinkler system but going a bit higher up. bit about outdoor cabling. use drip loops and the right type of cable, and make sure to keep the bugs out.
  12. do a Michael reeves collab making laser turrents with ai to shoot wasp but not bees to protect the hive. invasive wasp species is killing bees and everyone likes honey right? michael has made laser turrents before and learning and tracking swarms but hes young and low budget and a collab with you guys could get this inside a actual bee farm and giant wasp to test it on and its a good cause and extremely entertaining. what more can you ask for? and hey now alex can justify all those expensive machines machine robot laser turrets in the age of corna you dont even have to fly him out just do some teams calls and alex can throw it together with a bit of consultation, and the live wasp show up int he mail and you let them loose with the turret to slay them in a confined space with a beekeeper uniform on(find a local) and ocne you get ti working and test it out on a few bees to see that it doesnt kill them, take it out to the farm and test it and throw the instructions and software on github. save the bees! sounds like fun @AlexTheGreatish ?
  13. if you want a good experience i would not use a mesh net for 3 storys with lots of users and gigabit. run a cable from your assumably first floor router to the basement, and from the router to the second story and plug in a router as a access point on both floors. 2x 100$ or so gigabit routers and 250-500 foot box of cat6 which should be around 50-100$ you dont need plenum probably. mesh nets work by yelling at eachother then they yell the same thing at your hardware which creates a lot more noise and introduces a bit more latency. this way the signal is going from router to access point via cable and to device which is a couple feet away. if you want to get all fancy you can use keystones and wall sockets then plug in the access point to the wall for about 10$ of hardware, or you can put a rj 45 ohn the end and go straight form the wall/ceiling to the access point. i use a of ubiquiti like this one at work and you can set it up as a single network/password and jump between the nearest strongest signal as you walk around automatically with no drops or lag switching. in residential we often use the air ducts to run cables, but be sure to tape it up after with the metal air duct tape. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LITE-802-11ac-Gigabit-Dual-Radio/dp/B01DRM6MLI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3431F6OP758B9&dchild=1&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point&qid=1588292908&s=electronics&sprefix=ubi%2Celectronics%2C175&sr=1-3
  14. 5e can be iffy with gigabit. try a cat 6 cable. and what is the lengths we are talking?
  15. alright i think you are right about it being on the isp side and assuming you have carte blanche to do whatever i would start tracing the lines going from your house to the demarc. you are looking for damage to the wire and at the connection. ideally you would take photos of the cable connections which may be a 110 block or something more modern. never done low voltage in india before.