bignaz

So i had a laptop that's been sitting in a box for years. Decided to get it back up and running and just use it as a dedicated machine for my 3d printers. So i dumped the bios and checked it out. And the voltages seem pretty high. for the highest boost its showing 1.306v. I haven't messed with Maxwell in years and i thought you wanted to stay under 1.2v. that being said the load voltages are 1.062mv @ 1.176ghz on the core. 64 is 1.306ghz @ 1.306V but i never seen it go past 1,176 with load temps of 64c Seems odd. Then again it's and Asus and they do crap like that. The card does 1.45ghz on the core with 1.081v and i could go more but im power limited and i dont feel like pushing it more since im just poking around in the bios to do some undervolting so i can get this set up and just use it for my 3d printers. But since i was in the bios i decided to see what its go. But i just think its odd seeing 1.3v. I checked out a Dell bios and looks like stock they top out at 1,05v stock. Just wanna know if anyone else had a stock bios that had some really aggressive voltages.

Go with the biggest radiator you can fit in your case. The loop will last and even if you dont need the 360 if you need the power later on its there. Then if you need even more power you already have a 360 on tap

Shhhhhh you might upset an EK fanboy. That being said Alphacool Eisbecher D5 is what i would go with. Having had both of them the Alphacool is more robust. But currently im using a Corsair XD5 and i love it.

How did you have your NH-D15 cooling your gpu to? Because you can't really compare a heatsink with a 103w load to a loop with an extra what 200w from the Vega? If you want super low cpu temps you gotta do what I do. Cpu gets it's own loop. Even Idle your putting about 25 more watts of heat into that loop and on your cpu. How's your flow? And what's your temps when the loop is fully heatsoked. After an hour when your loop temps plateaus? Any bubbles? Shakenthe shit out of your raids after you filed your loop? Also you could have a shitty ihs. Delid/lap can help.

Yeah. Mmhmmmm. Keep blaming the cooler. The cooler had absolutely nothing to do with it. And when you have to list off your "credentials" it just confirms it. You blame the heatsink. Well it's not the heatsink. It has nothing to do with it lol. Again basic system builder stuff here Cheap mobo, cheap am4 bracket. I never seen a soft bracket but I don't use cheap boards. Even then they don't break unless you have that clip on the outside of the mount and crank it down. Cracked am4 bracket. Can happen. Random Mass produced crap plastic. Keep tension on that with a small crack, thermal cycles and it breaks. Again not the heatsink. Most likely and pretty clear what Happened. Clip for the heatsink was not seated right. It was sitting on the edge and not "keyed" into it's spot. Put it on that little extra plastic at the edge puts a few more lb's of force pulling on the edge. Time, heat cycles it breaks. Like I said. It happens. Mounting it on that little edge happens more then most people think. I bet a large number of people who put the heatsink in why the mobo was in the PC and did it sideways have it mounted like this. I never seen that part break. It's not a big deal it happens no need and try to make it look like you have the only am4 heatsink in existence that is so put of spec it snaps a mount lol. If you need a AM4 mount let me know. I got about 30 sets of them. I'll send you a set. It sucks but who cares. It's a part that's cheap and anyone who water cools will give you one. Of you want one just sende message I'll send you a set. Hell if you pay for shipping I'll sent you a brand new wrath prism. I got a ton of those laying around to.

Why not stop buying disposable coolers and get a real loop. I mean buying a new cooler your already In entry level custom loop price ranges. And you would have better temps and won't need to replace the loop every few years. That being said. If I was being forced to get an AIO and I absolutely had to buy the trash. I would go with the h115i. I never seen a Corsair AIO corrode. But much like your cooler now. A few years you will be clogged with plasticizers and your temps will go up. No way around that. You could clean it out but it's not worth it. First temps will go up from the micro fins being clogged. Then 1-2 years latter the pump will start to stick from all the plasticizers being stuck in the impeller. It can all be cleaned and refilled. I done it on one for a guy. But it's tedius. And not worth it. I would always use Corsair over any other brand for AIO's. From what I seen they tend to be the best overall and units using the se gen pump/block you get better fans with the Corsair and ique is nice.

They do new sockets all the time. It's just a way to milk money out of people. Now the next gen could have a few year life span "nothing close to the life span of there 14nm lmfao" as a response to AMD but they won't. Because they just want money and fanboys will give it to them.

You should probably learn how to install the cooler. You didn't have that side in right. You had it on the edge and it broke. The mounts and heatsinks are fine you just didn't install it right. I mean it happens but why blame the cooler when it's user error. Those brackets take quite a bit of force to break and or crack. So anyone who has installed one would of felt how tight that was and remounted. User error that's all it is.

You can count on needing a new monthboard. Why would they change now.

It's Intel. Don't count on it.

Aio's coverage is fine. Problem is from the pumps and how much water is in the loop. Pumps have the flow rate of a 95 year old trying to pee. And hold barley any water in the loop.

I don't know why but you should be fine. I don't see anything that would cause issues. The mount Is basically like there old aio mounts. Unless it's something with the size of the standoffs for the mount.

Your not seating it right.

I delided my 9900k and I'll tell you right now if you haven't delided a cpu don't try a soldered cpu. But indium is extremely soft so if you do it right you won't hurt the cpu at all. You need to do it right tho. And unless your 9900k can hit the upper limit of what the 9900k's clock to. There's no real point in doing this. That said. I saw a small improvement in temps. However I saw the same drop in temp by lapping my ihs. Combined it was a nice drop. But personally if I had an average 9900k I would just check how flat my ihs was and if it's not just lap it and call it a day since that's much safer overall. My ihs was kinda like a soup bowl. Thanks Intel. But for the last few months I had my 9900k I went lidless on it with a custom loop and I prefer that over everything else. No shockers that was the best but you need a mount to hold it in. I just used my block lol. But you will need a shim to protect the cpu. If you are not totally flat you can chip or crack it and kill it. I chiped some old athlons and what not back in the day they were fine but with how small stuff is not a small chip can get a pretty big Chuck of your cpu. My spacer was like the old school athlons had. Just 4 little foam pads and it worked great.

Bclk you will have issues. Example after a 115mhz bclk on my 3900x my windows gets corrupt. So I would not even mess with the bclk. You won't really gain anything and if you go to far you will lose data

If you can swing it the 3700 is the way to go. Both cpu's will not bottleneck your system so your good. But with the price of the 2700's its a hard sell for the 3700. I mean if you can spend it I would. But you really won't see much value from the money spent. The 2700 for the price is amazing and I seen them for as low as $120 used.

No need to be a fanboy and defend poor products. If you know anyone about the thermal property of Plexi you will know it's a horrible choice for a top. And I never cracked one. They crack on there own from the that. But hey what do I know and countless other people who have been water-cooling for years most of them before ek was even around know. https://lmgtfy.com/?q=EKWB+cracked+plexi fact is EKWB makes poor quality products. All there Plexi is absolutely trash and should be avoided at all cost. Same with every other brand using Plexi. They use it because it's cheap and fan boys will defend them online. Now ek's acetal is good. I never had a single issue with anything of there's with acetal tops. Infact my 2080ti blocks are ek with acetal tops. Won't use there Plexi if you give it to me. Infact they offered to send me some and I declined. Plexi expands .062" per foot at 100f. 37.7c a common temp for a loop. Some go as high at 45c. This is why it gets micro cracks. The Plexi expands and the screws do not and it starts to get micro cracks over time. This is what Plexi does. This is why things that hold warm or hot water are not Plexi. Because it's one of the worst materials for exposure to anything over room temp. They use it because I can pick up a 1 foot square of 1/2 inch Plexi for about $12. Where acetal is almost 2x more expensive. They use it because you can machine it fast. It's dirt cheap. Also keep in mind that 2 pretty high up people left EKWB for corsiar. And The limitations that EKWB had for them they no longer have with a company that much much larger. EK could of did transparent nylon but it's expensive and they have zero experience with injection molding. I think corsiar did great by bringing over Niko Tivadar. They gave him the tools and resources he needs that EK could not give him.

$100 for rgb fans and controller won't buy you much. Better off just buying good non rgb fans and some LED's I prefer Corsair. It's the best rgb around hand down. And the fans are great. But a 3 pack will put you over budget. Your at about $280 for 6 fans and a Corsair commander. Also ditch the rgb fusion. It sucks and is the worst software for rgb. You don't have close to the control as others have and it's buggy. When I ran my aorus I just set the rgb for the mobo in bios and used the Corsair ique for my fans and what not. You get what you pay for. Just want lights with some crap fans. Order away. Want something good. Get Corsair LL120's with a Corsair commander. The Gigabyte rgb software will gimp anything you try to use because of how limited it is and you will wish you saved and spent a few bucks more for the corsiar so you can do some nice effects

I got a engineering sample. Can't go into any details but the engineering sample I have does work on my x470 crosshair and gaming 7. Just keep in mind lower end boards don't how the power system for this cpu. Again I don't know if the retail cpu's will work in them. But for x470 I wouldn't use anything less then an aorus gaming 7 on that cpu.

Because my PC is water-cooled bro! Out of the 3 The Thermaltake.

70c its not really handling it. Thats pretty hot. 80c is extremely hot those little turds just dont have the power. whats your liquid temp at? 50c+ Real loop on a 3900x I mean AOI's are trash. They can keep up till a 3700X then they just get beat on because they dont have enough liquid in the loop and the flow rate is pretty much non existent. Thats a 3900x on a single 240 raid also. 90's is high but not super high. those aio's typical temps are around upper 70's to low 80's. Temp reporting can be skewed on ryzen. I mean there not much you can do outside of fans at 100% and pump at 100%. You can do a push pull but the pump flow is whats killing you. Check out the flow on a DDC or a D5 at about 20% and compare it to a aio's pump at 100%. If you really need the lower temps disable SMT and that will help a bit.

Anything more then a 3600 just beats on aio's. They just don't have the power to cool that focused heat from 7nm. Dapending on your ambiant your temps seem slightly high but nothing I would see as a problem. I tested a 3900x stock cooler n a h115i and those temps were in the 80's. Given its a hotter cpu it also had a little bit bigger radiator and was only running about 4ghz. Same cpu on a custom loop 4.6ghz 1.38v was hitting 72c load. I would look into a better cooling set up. Second gen Ryzen runs hot. And anything higher then a 3600 just beats on aio's after they heatsoak. Small volume of liquid along with a very low flow rate is not good. You could put some fans in push pull. Undervolt a little bit more and a few other tweaks. Lower soc voltage and a few others but your really going to be fighting an uphill battle. Also keep in mind I found temp monitoring on Ryzen to be all over the place. I seen as much as a 10c higher reading when looking at different software. I don't know if your aio has a temp probe in the loop to show the liquid temp but how warm is your liquid? No probe how warm are the lines? Are they just warm or are they holy crap that's hot. Aio lines on my 3900x were alarming hot. Love Ryzen they are great cpu's and glad to see AMD back why Intel is just spinning in a circle but these things run really hot. My first impression was flashbacks from the P4 days lol

It's the same past as a knowen manufacturer I won't name. It's made in China and they sell that without that brand attached. I been using Maker gel nano and it works great. But I tested that stuff and it worked good.

That's where thinking comes into play and not expeance. This is not the old days of buying a pond pumps and a heater core and putting it together. Biggest thing is planning your loop. After that its easy. Most people chime in with absolutely zero experience in water-cooling or think they have it because they have an aio and this makes people think it's way harder then it has to be. It's really that easy. Block will be labeled or in the documents will say what is the inlet on it. If someone can't figure that out then opening the side of there PC is way above there skill level. It's simple and kits have made it to where anyone with basic skills can do it without an issues. Guides are pointless and most of them pass on that users bad habbits to new people.

Ek Plexi stuff is trash just a heads up. Every single Plexi ek product I have owned has gotten micro cracks in less then a month. No leaks but just search ek micro cracks or cracks on Google and you can see it's extremely common. That being said I switched over the the Corsair Hydro X line and it's great. I love the transparent nylon and been using it for a few months now and have zero issues. No problem cooling my 3900x https://valid.x86.fr/2z6ftf. Used EK for years. Never had a leak but tons of thermal cracks on the Plexi. It happens to all Plexi not just ek. So that's why I tried Corsair for the transparent nylon and I'll be sticking with them. Watercooling is extremely easy. You honestly don't even need a guide. Just a heads up. For the rgb on the Corsair Hydro X line you will need the Corsair commander or a 5v headder. If you use a normal 12 volt it will burn out the LEDs. But the Corsair commander is really nice and I think it's worth $60 because it toes it all into icue and you can set your pump speed off your coolant temp and use some of the thermal sensors and put them on your radiators etc.