CodeNova

Everybody's life is meaningless, its not just you. Spending your time wisely doesn't give your life meaning, find what makes ya happy and tell your coworker to blow it out his ass.

So here's the story, I broke a bracket on a 'vintage' piece of equipment *face palm* and now I need a replacement. I have the part drawn up in cad, but I'm not sure where to get it fabricated. I need it laser cut out of steel or aluminum, 1mm - 1.20mm thick. I was thinking about using pololu or lasergist, but I've never used any of these services before, so I don't know what to expect. Could anybody recommend a cheap laser cutting service? The bracket is about 71mm x 42mm, so its not very big. I can post the files if anybody wants a look see. Any advice is welcome, looking forward to reply's.

Try this, supports both common anode and common cathode. PS, glad you figured it out. https://github.com/wilmouths/RGBLed

Double check the pitch. Edit: fixed links... https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/assmann-wsw-components/AWP-50-8240-T/HHSC50H-ND/5011317 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3m/3365-50-100/3M157852-5-ND/9478493

- Siberian Slayer - Mr.Freeze - The Iceman

I'm with Derkoli, just buy new speakers. https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280T-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Get a second opinion before ya break out the credit card. My Recommendation

Without a schematic or wiring diagram its really hard to pinpoint the problem. Based on your description it seems like a power issue. Without knowing what Arduino board you have, I can only speculate, but I bet your onboard voltage regulator blew. Those linear voltage regulators are super inefficient, especially when they have to drop a lot of voltage 12->5. That voltage drop is also dissipated as heat, super bad if your not using a heat sink. Also I think those onboard v-regs have a supply limit of 400mA? (don't quote me). So if your powering anything 'from' the Arduino board that exceeds that rating, your gonna have a bad time. Depending on the chip set, the Arduino is really only rated for 5vdc or 3.3vdc, the onboard regulator is rated at 12v, not the chip. So don't connect your Arduino IO to any voltage source greater than that without proper level shifting. You might already know this, but I'm just covering all the bases encase you don't. If it is the regulator, you can do one of three things. 1) Swap out your Arduino board with a new one and see if the problem persists. 2) change out the onboard regulator (it's pain if you don't have the tools) and see if the problem persists. 3) Hook a buck/boost regulator up to the 5v supply pin of the Arduino and see if the problem persists. Tag me if you need any help/advice.

its inexpensive, yes, but I wouldn't call it 'cheap' per-say. If your apprehensive about it, go with a known brand. Just trying provide options.

Why? and what exactly makes it bogus? can you recommend an alternative source of reference?

Based on this, it looks like a GeForce RTX 2070 would be a good option, or a GeForce GTX 1070.

@Jtalk4456, what about this one, its kinda loud though... THE LINK! I have the RGB version with different caps, I like mine. Edit: The whole thing is metal too, like if I had to club a baby seal, this is the keyboard I would use.

@LinusTech, Great video, I really enjoyed it. *puts two thumbs up*

My old Pentium D, it still works... I think.