Zammin

I just recently finished my first hardline build in the PC-011 Dynamic case as well haha. Must be popular.
 
Specs:
- 8700k @ 5Ghz
- Strix GTX1080Ti OC
- Maximus X Code
- Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz 16Gb
- RM1000i PSU
- Intel 600P 256Gb OS Drive
- Samsung 850 Evo 1TB Games drive
- 3TB Hard Drive Storage
 
Watercooling components:
- EK Supremacy RGB CPU Block
- Phanteks Glacier RGB GPU Block
- EK Xres 140 Revo RGB D5 Pump/Res Combo (with extended reservoir tube)
- EK XE360 Top Radiator
- XSPC EX360 Side Radiator
- Bitspower DRGB Flow Indicator
- EK 16mm OD PETG Tubing
- Corsair ML120 Radiator Fans
 
Took a lot of time to squeeze everything in there. Hope you guys like it. 

 
 

I'm not sure where you heard 6-9 months, but I just asked their support and I was told this:
EKWB Support (Igor) (EKWB Support)
Sep 18, 13:59 CEST
Hi

These are expected to be available approximately a month or so after the copper line of blocks. 

Best regards, Igor

You're not wrong, I just wanted to suggest something that hadn't already been suggested. It definitely makes sense to do either one of those things rather than risk destroying the entire loop.
 
Yeah I had a feeling that it was too good to be true with how many coolants claim to be safe for mixed metals. I personally don't run aluminium so it isn't a problem for me, but hopefully some of the info I provided is at least somewhat helpful.

This is market segmentation, you are clearly seeing first hand for a reason why you should have bought the non-fluid gaming series. You can't complain that those who have bought a first class plane ticket get to go on the plane first. EKWB has interests in making sure that there is a point in buying higher end parts. People like you should be patient, you're paying less, don't expect to be treated the same as somebody who is willing to pay more.
 
To me,  you're the one overreacting. If you want better treatment, then you're going to have to pay more. Simple.

I dont understand this obsession of watercooling the card from day 1? the way to minimize damage is to leave the aircooled until a suitablr waterblock comes out.
 
The fluid gaming series is supposed to cater for a lower budget group and therefore is not EKWBs priority. If the customer is rich enough to shell out for every new graphics card, then they should just go for the normal radiators and fittings. If EKWB has stated they may release aluminium blocks within a year, if i were you id be thanking EK as opposed to ranting.

I figured this by now myself, huge thanks to you anyways. The upper part list is NOT my current part list anymore and therefore I marked a answer to end the discussion. If I should have more problems, I´ll open a new one. Thank you to all people who are helping me make my very first self-built gaming pc (which is also custom water cooled) reality.
 - LiquidNitrogen

Nope, you definitely need a different radiator.

Im pretty sure that radiator you chose is Aluminium. Aluminium and copper won't go well together unless you have some kind of coolant with a strong enough corrosion inhibitor to prevent galvanic corrosion. I would recommend choosing a copper/brass radiator as it will perform better while removing the risk of galvanic corrosion and also allowing you to use a wider range of fluids.

After buying a monitor with adaptive sync (Gsync in my case) I wouldn't have it any other way. While it's not as bad at 144hz+ I can still see tearing without it. If set up correctly you get no tearing and pretty much no input lag. According to blur busters the best way to set it up is to have Gsync ON and Vsync ON in NVCP, and cap your games frame rate to 3FPS below the max refresh rate (e.g. 141FPS for 144Hz) using Afterburner/RTSS or ideally the games settings or config file if available. There will always be some degree of input lag in thorough testing but the difference between Vsync OFF and no Gsync and the settings mentioned above is pretty much nothing in practice, and you get zero tearing.
 
Hope this helps.

Got some more ram in there and no longer barfing rainbows. It also looked good with white edge lighting but the red turned out better on my crappy iphone camera. I need to get a decent camera one of these days..
 
 

More photos here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmm4sY4W
 
7900x @4.7ghz Delidded with Der8auer direct die frame
Asus Rampage VI Extreme
4x8gb Corsair Dominator Platinum
Vega64
1TB Samsung 960 Pro
2x 512GB Samsung 960 Pro
Cooler Master C700p custom painted
Seasonic Prime Ultra 850w Titanium
Cablesmods RGB-UV LED Strip
MDPC-X cable sleeve
 
Watercooling:
Aquacomputer Nickel VISION CPU Block
Aquacomputer Vega64 Nickel GPU Block
Heatkiller Black Nickel Asus Rampage VI Extreme VRM Block
Aquaero 6 XT
Heatkiller Tube  150
2x EK PE 360 Radiator
Aquacomputer Kyro M.2 passive heat sink
Bitspower Fittings
Bitspower PETG tubes
Noctua NF-A12x25 on radiators
 
 

It's just an IKEA electric sit/stand desk. Can't remember the brand name specifically.

I just recently finished my first hardline build in the PC-011 Dynamic case as well haha. Must be popular.
 
Specs:
- 8700k @ 5Ghz
- Strix GTX1080Ti OC
- Maximus X Code
- Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz 16Gb
- RM1000i PSU
- Intel 600P 256Gb OS Drive
- Samsung 850 Evo 1TB Games drive
- 3TB Hard Drive Storage
 
Watercooling components:
- EK Supremacy RGB CPU Block
- Phanteks Glacier RGB GPU Block
- EK Xres 140 Revo RGB D5 Pump/Res Combo (with extended reservoir tube)
- EK XE360 Top Radiator
- XSPC EX360 Side Radiator
- Bitspower DRGB Flow Indicator
- EK 16mm OD PETG Tubing
- Corsair ML120 Radiator Fans
 
Took a lot of time to squeeze everything in there. Hope you guys like it. 

 
 

I just recently finished my first hardline build in the PC-011 Dynamic case as well haha. Must be popular.
 
Specs:
- 8700k @ 5Ghz
- Strix GTX1080Ti OC
- Maximus X Code
- Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz 16Gb
- RM1000i PSU
- Intel 600P 256Gb OS Drive
- Samsung 850 Evo 1TB Games drive
- 3TB Hard Drive Storage
 
Watercooling components:
- EK Supremacy RGB CPU Block
- Phanteks Glacier RGB GPU Block
- EK Xres 140 Revo RGB D5 Pump/Res Combo (with extended reservoir tube)
- EK XE360 Top Radiator
- XSPC EX360 Side Radiator
- Bitspower DRGB Flow Indicator
- EK 16mm OD PETG Tubing
- Corsair ML120 Radiator Fans
 
Took a lot of time to squeeze everything in there. Hope you guys like it. 

 
 

I just recently finished my first hardline build in the PC-011 Dynamic case as well haha. Must be popular.
 
Specs:
- 8700k @ 5Ghz
- Strix GTX1080Ti OC
- Maximus X Code
- Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz 16Gb
- RM1000i PSU
- Intel 600P 256Gb OS Drive
- Samsung 850 Evo 1TB Games drive
- 3TB Hard Drive Storage
 
Watercooling components:
- EK Supremacy RGB CPU Block
- Phanteks Glacier RGB GPU Block
- EK Xres 140 Revo RGB D5 Pump/Res Combo (with extended reservoir tube)
- EK XE360 Top Radiator
- XSPC EX360 Side Radiator
- Bitspower DRGB Flow Indicator
- EK 16mm OD PETG Tubing
- Corsair ML120 Radiator Fans
 
Took a lot of time to squeeze everything in there. Hope you guys like it. 

 
 

I just recently finished my first hardline build in the PC-011 Dynamic case as well haha. Must be popular.
 
Specs:
- 8700k @ 5Ghz
- Strix GTX1080Ti OC
- Maximus X Code
- Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz 16Gb
- RM1000i PSU
- Intel 600P 256Gb OS Drive
- Samsung 850 Evo 1TB Games drive
- 3TB Hard Drive Storage
 
Watercooling components:
- EK Supremacy RGB CPU Block
- Phanteks Glacier RGB GPU Block
- EK Xres 140 Revo RGB D5 Pump/Res Combo (with extended reservoir tube)
- EK XE360 Top Radiator
- XSPC EX360 Side Radiator
- Bitspower DRGB Flow Indicator
- EK 16mm OD PETG Tubing
- Corsair ML120 Radiator Fans
 
Took a lot of time to squeeze everything in there. Hope you guys like it. 

 
 

I have been using EK Cryofuel. Clear in my old soft tubing build and Blood Red in my current rigid tubing build. The clear is a bit yellow-ish, not clear like distilled water. Bother times I've used it, it seems to leave outlines on the inside of the reservoir where air bubbles were as well as a line around the fluid level. Not sure if this from the coolant's exposure to air or something in it, but it wipes away when cleaning so I don't think it's permanent. It's nothing to worry about functionally but it just makes the inside of the reservoir (and maybe plexi blocks) look a little dirty IMO. 
 
It's weird that EK specifically says not to use chemicals like Mayhems Blitz to clean you system prior to using Cryofuel or even the common white vinegar mix to clean your radiators. They recommend just flushing your rads with distilled water and nothing else, so that's something to keep in mind.