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get some 3 in 1 oil and open the mouse and put the oil on the switch and cycle it a few times. oil is non conductive, so you don't have to worry about shorting or breaking anything new with it. it sometimes works, if it doesn't, only other alternative it desolder and replace it.

If it's a specific part that I need, I'll go through mouser or digikey. If I'm looking for something generic, headphone jack or wire, I'll go though ebay or amazon. For audio connections I like Neutrik/Rean, which are easily found on ebay. I think I have some switchcraft around here too, and they are on par with Neutrik.

Some female headphone jacks have 4 or 5 connections on the pcb side. Stereo audio only needs 3. When you plug in the jack, the extra pins that aren't Left/Right/Ground, are shorted to another pin. Here's a jack I just bought. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/cui-devices/SJ1-3525N/CP1-3525N-ND/738687 It has 5 pins, and when you plug something in pin 4 is shorted to pin 2, and pin 5 is shorted to pin 3 (Images showed in the preview, but not when I posted. I just put the direct link to the product page.)

The pattern isn't a low fuser temp/voltage issue, if it was it would flake off in a powder and look almost splotchy. Bad corona wires cause dark/light spots, but I haven't seen anything nearly that patterned/consistent. Looks like you can buy a fuser for $300+ but that's a lot to throw in the parts cannon, and I think it looks more like a transfer issue rather than a fuser issue. I have had some odd issues with individual brands/types of paper, I don't think that would be the issue here, But that is a really easy, cheap test to try.

Probably doesn't have a low oil level sensor. My 2004 Audi is the only car that I've dealt with that does. It will however have an oil pressure light, that will turn on if oil isn't getting through the oil pump.(unless the light is burnt out) If that light comes on, pull over asap and put oil in. If you know the oil is low now, put oil in it before driving it. Going on hills or turns may cause the pump not not pickup oil and may cause the pressure light to come on.

it just uses a clone of a diamond hot end.

I tried the dom v3 at a race, but thought the screen was too small. I haven't tried the HD line yet, but have been looking to try the HD2. Until I can try them I'm sticking to the 5" screen goggles.

No racer will use the safety features/guidance the photo guys will use, and it appears there's no HD recording device onboard. so what demographic were they trying to hit with this?

If the 4ch hobby king transmitter has the 6ch flysky v2 rx (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobby-king-2-4ghz-receiver-6ch-v2.html) it also works with the turnigy/flysky 9x. WLToys has a few different protocols for their rx's the older ones work with the 9x. I know the v911(fp brushed heli), and V929(geared brushed quad) both work with the 9x, so I would assume the controller would bind with the 4ch hobbyking tx. I don't know the default channel scheme for either the hobbyking radio or the controller, so I can't say if the controls will match and be usable. A note on the motor/prop, if you plan to keep a small brushed motor, I'd look for a motor/gearbox/prop combo, and work from there.

The hobbyking IMAX charger is about as cheap as it gets, the only thing I've seen cheaper is a clone of that charger, and we're only talking $5-10 cheaper.

You can get a HAM license, and build some antennas, but you still won't be able to go over a hill.

You won't get very far on that system. 5.8ghz linear system that I can only assume is 10-25mw for an FCC stamp. put the antennas higher and you will get a little better range. 6 houses without obstructions will be pushing it. I tested 10mw 5.8ghz 6 houses down yesterday, and it was borderline with a skew planer. If you change the transmitting antennas on your current system or change the system to 1.3ghz you need a ham license. $15 to take the test for a 10 year license in USA, iirc.

I had the exact same problem, same number of connectors too, and sounds like a similar project. The only connectors that looked easy enough to solder were huge 12pin molex connectors. I just went with the dual controllers.

Take a look at this, No guarantee it will work with your screen, but it's worth a shot. https://learn.adafruit.com/user-space-spi-tft-python-library-ili9341-2-8/overview

not the most efficient, but it's on the higher end. http://www.lautsprechershop.de/index_hifi_en.htm?http://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/kkits_wirkungsgrad_en.htm I thought I remember hearing about a 99db speaker using a tang band driver, but I'm not seeing it now.