MG2R

I am fairly sure zpool remove is not a recommended action, is it even supported in truenas? 

Last I knew this was not. If it is now a supported feature, that’s at least good to know and would save a lot of people a lot of headache. 
 
Sure, it’s possible. It just doesn’t make much sense. It’s all about optimization. And ZFS is optimized for enterprise, not frugal home users. I hope this is addressed in future releases as ZFS really is the best file system on the planet, and making it more accessible to more people would only be a positive. Being able to add drives to a vdev for instance and have it automatically redistribute data would be fantastic, but who knows if that feature will ever actually happen. It’s been on the list for as long as I have had my homelab…. So about 10 years. 

Anyways, both options are valid options,  as long as the end user fully understands the pluses and minuses of both, and evaluates their needs against the options. 

1. Different hard drive sizes
 
I think the only real solution here is unraid.
 
Otherwise, run ZFS with two 4-drive RAIDZ1 vdevs in a pool. Each vdev will be limited to the size of the smallest drive in that vdev but as you swap out drives the vdevs do grow automagically.
 
2. Software
 
im running Nextcloud and its database together with Plex and a whole host of other services on Docker Swarm (deprecated clustering system built into Docker). I don’t see what you mean that running NAS software in containers ain’t a good idea. 
 
tbh these days I’d look into something like K3S or a different single-node kubernetes solution. Kubernetes is just so much more mature and flexible vs a simple Docker installation. 
 
it does take some getting used to though. 

I feel like there has been kind of a lot of videos relatively recently about garbage LTT has bought off Aliexpress.  

When you say things like “my server will pay for itself”, keep in mind that there’s a lot of hidden costs to hosting your own solution:
 
- electricity: running 24/7 web service with a 12400 machine costs anywhere between 50 and 250 USD yearly depending on your rate
- opportunity cost: running something 24/7 means you’ll be spending time keeping the system going, updated, and secure, which you can’t use for whatever it is you make money with
- downtime costs: your simple server on your simple residential connection will not be up nearly as often as any proper hosted solution. Think about the impact of your website being down. Is it problematic? Well, congrats you’re now 24/7 on-call to keep the system going. 
- uptime costs: to mitigate downtime, you’ll want highly available servers, power, internet. That costs a lot of money
 
take it from someone that has worked in the industry: web hosting is expensive if you want to do it right. The margins are terrible.
 
Now, if this project is not something that can never go down and you simply like playing with technology, by all means go for it. I do it too for those reasons.
 
But if this is something that is in any way required to be up 24/7 or your world burns down, think twice and host with a professional hoster. 

Okay.
So there was no leak, you could've clarified that in the post we are responding to. 😉
Why did it make you leave?
I remember this, and it was pretty obvious to me this guy on Twitter was blowing hot air, right out of the gate.
Or is it also unrelated to you leaving?

My problems aren't the ads as much as the trackers.
Move away from advertising giants like Google and serve them in-house.
I'll immediately "disable adblock" for your website.
 
In fact. I don't even explicitly ad-block to begin with.
Extentions like privacybadger aren't ad-blockers persé but due to the big brother state of that industry blocking trackers means you're blocking ads.

Just so you know, these are all non-reasons. A VPN is not difficult to set up, and if you can set up a NAS, you can set up a VPN.
 
You don’t need a static IP, almost no home user has one. DynamicDNS providers solve this issue, Cloudflare is one, it works fantastic. You just forward a website to your IP address via a little program that runs inside your network and calls home to Cloudflare with your current IP.
 
Look into tailscale VPN, it doesn’t require ports to be opened. 
 
Backblaze for a single PC is like 6 bucks a month for unlimited storage…. If you backup from windows this works, if you backup from a NAS you need to pay for their B2 tier, which is more expensive. I backup ~4.5TB, and it costs me about 25 bucks last I checked per month to keep that data stored there. It also supports user side encryption….. so until all encryption is broken, which will be a much, much larger issue for the world as a whole then your files being able to be decrypted, this is a non issue. Once current encryption can be broken, all banks will be emptied, all utilities will be compromised, all the internet will be plunged into disaster - your little slice of a cloud server isn’t going to matter. Don’t not use the cloud because you fear what you don’t understand. I recommend looking into how encryption works, and why having a client side encryption mechanism which backblaze has effectively means your data is as safe as it would be on your own network….. potentially safer actually. 
 
I have no idea how you would deal with thermal management on a sealed container. You need to either exchange air with the outside world, or exchange heat via running a water loop…. But that would only address the CPU’s heat. Remember, every watt of power a PC draws is turned into heat. That heat is then going into the volume of air the PC is in, if that volume of air is sealed in a box, it will eventually rise to the point of the machine turning off due to thermal protection kicking in. If you had a way to radiate the heat into the ground……. Maybe it could work if it’s low power enough. But, this all sort of makes no sense. Either get an offsite backup working, or learn why encryption is fine. You trust all of your money and personal property to encryption (all money in banks is protected by weaker encryption then you can employ for you backblaze setup, and all digital records of house, car, debt, credit, citizenship, etc etc is as well)…. I’m sure your data can be trusted to encryption as well. Because, again, when encryption is defeated, our current way of life is defeated. 

Your data, and more broadly your private life, is yours and yours alone.
 
The argument you’re making here is a rephrased version of “I have nothing to hide, I’m not worried about privacy”. However, the point is never what your data is telling about you to the people around you _right now_, it’s about what people in the future might think about your future self based on data about your current self. 
 
To exemplify why this matters, consider a European country in the 1930s where citizens are mandated to register their official religion with the local government. The reasoning for this is that it would allow for a proper burial in the case you were to die without family member. The state will give you a burial according to your specified religion. Neat right?
 
A couple years later, Nazi Germany walks through the door and finds this handy list of all Jews in the country. Through no fault of their own and without “doing anything wrong” or “having something to hide”, all of a sudden their data is used against them. Citizens betrayed by data mining for the best intentions imaginable by their then-government. A tragedy. 
 
The data big tech compiles about you does not stay with big tech. It gets shared broadly with government agencies around the world. It gets leaked through cracks and attacks. It gets lost and mishandled. 
 
Privacy is a right which must be fought for continuously. Once given up you’ll never be able to claw it back. 
 
If you really don’t care about privacy, hand the password to your mail account to your colleague and let them go through it all. Sounds off, doesn’t it? Guess what outlook and gmail do. 

This cannot be done. It will have to be a VM. Good luck with your cheating in an MMO.

Your data, and more broadly your private life, is yours and yours alone.
 
The argument you’re making here is a rephrased version of “I have nothing to hide, I’m not worried about privacy”. However, the point is never what your data is telling about you to the people around you _right now_, it’s about what people in the future might think about your future self based on data about your current self. 
 
To exemplify why this matters, consider a European country in the 1930s where citizens are mandated to register their official religion with the local government. The reasoning for this is that it would allow for a proper burial in the case you were to die without family member. The state will give you a burial according to your specified religion. Neat right?
 
A couple years later, Nazi Germany walks through the door and finds this handy list of all Jews in the country. Through no fault of their own and without “doing anything wrong” or “having something to hide”, all of a sudden their data is used against them. Citizens betrayed by data mining for the best intentions imaginable by their then-government. A tragedy. 
 
The data big tech compiles about you does not stay with big tech. It gets shared broadly with government agencies around the world. It gets leaked through cracks and attacks. It gets lost and mishandled. 
 
Privacy is a right which must be fought for continuously. Once given up you’ll never be able to claw it back. 
 
If you really don’t care about privacy, hand the password to your mail account to your colleague and let them go through it all. Sounds off, doesn’t it? Guess what outlook and gmail do. 

Your data, and more broadly your private life, is yours and yours alone.
 
The argument you’re making here is a rephrased version of “I have nothing to hide, I’m not worried about privacy”. However, the point is never what your data is telling about you to the people around you _right now_, it’s about what people in the future might think about your future self based on data about your current self. 
 
To exemplify why this matters, consider a European country in the 1930s where citizens are mandated to register their official religion with the local government. The reasoning for this is that it would allow for a proper burial in the case you were to die without family member. The state will give you a burial according to your specified religion. Neat right?
 
A couple years later, Nazi Germany walks through the door and finds this handy list of all Jews in the country. Through no fault of their own and without “doing anything wrong” or “having something to hide”, all of a sudden their data is used against them. Citizens betrayed by data mining for the best intentions imaginable by their then-government. A tragedy. 
 
The data big tech compiles about you does not stay with big tech. It gets shared broadly with government agencies around the world. It gets leaked through cracks and attacks. It gets lost and mishandled. 
 
Privacy is a right which must be fought for continuously. Once given up you’ll never be able to claw it back. 
 
If you really don’t care about privacy, hand the password to your mail account to your colleague and let them go through it all. Sounds off, doesn’t it? Guess what outlook and gmail do. 

So first off: `mdadm -E` should be done on individual drives, not the logical array device. See the manual:
-E, --examine Print contents of the metadata stored on the named device(s). Note the contrast between --examine and --detail. --examine applies to devices which are components of an array, while --detail applies to a whole array which is currently active.  
So, you're kinde screwed. Both sdg and sdh are reporting errors. sdh has the most recent errors, so that's probably from when you experienced the problems the first time. However, sdg reported error from 4000 hours ago. That's roughly half a year ago if they're running 24/7!
 
Did you have any monitoring on this whatsoever?
 
I'm going to go ahead and say you're quite probably in big trouble. Chances are minimal (almost zero) you'll be able to recover from this, if there's actually two corrupt drives here.
 
To make sure that's the case, please perform `sudo mdadm -E <drive>` for each of your 4 individual drives. Aslo, please do the conveyance tests on each drive. Your smart data shows no tests have run for sd{g,h,i}, only sdf has had tests run previously.

If you're already used to running Linux without special TrueNAS or Unraid sauce.. why go for the more "magic" solution? You can run your gameservers directly on Linux.

It'll be heaps faster than your current solution for sure. Go with option one. If you do end up outgrowing the memory capacity: DDR4 is pretty cheap second hand.
 
I think if you shop around you'll be able to get option 1 with another 8 GB stick of RAM for the same price as option2, making it the clearly better solution.

Thanks this is amazing this checklist saved my butt. 

You pcpartpicker link is broken I think 😉

REMINDER: this thread is not to ask questions about your PC. Please create a NEW thread if you still have issues after going through this thread.
 
So, you've put together your brand new, shining rig. You plug in the power cord and push the button. Nothing happens. What now? The answer depends on what is happening:
 
 
The machine doesn't do anything. No beeps, LEDs or spinning fans.
Check if your power cable is firmly plugged in on both ends (you would be surprised how many issues this resolves) Check if the power supply (PSU) has a button to cut the power to the machine. Check if this button is in the position denoted with ON or I Check if EVERY power cable is plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Check if the power button is installed correctly (consult your motherboard manual) Try shorting out the pins you connect the power button to manually. If this powers on your system, you have a faulty power button. Check with a device of which you know that it works if the power outlet you're using is actually providing power. If this hasn't solved the problem, check if your PSU isn't dead. To do this, you can follow these steps:
Unplug your power cord and/or flip the switch on the back of the PSU in the position denoted with OFF or 0 Unplug every connector coming from your PSU (this is very important) Using a bent paperclip, short out the green wire on the 24 pin header with any of the black wires, like so. If you have a PSU that shuts down its fan under low load, or a PSU that is fanless, connect something small like a hard drive to it. Plug in your power cord and/or flip the switch on the back of the PSU in the position denoted with ON or I If the PSU does NOT power on (the fan/hard drive you connected should start spinning) after following these steps, your PSU is in all likelyhood defective. Request an RMA.
If the PSU DOES power on, then the problem is most likely your motherboard.
 
 
The machine does power up, but my screen remains black (no POST).
Make sure your BIOS version is compatible with the CPU generation you're trying to run in your motherboard, you can consult the manual or the manufacturer's website about this. Check if EVERY power cable is connected. Auxiliary power connectors included. Make sure the cable coming from your monitor is attached securely to the graphics card. Also make sure it is securely attached to the monitor itself. Make sure your PSU is powerful enough to power your complete system. Try booting the system with only a monitor but no other peripherals connected. (Thanks @Steven Schaefer) Make sure your monitor works by testing it on a different computer. If you have both a dedicated GPU and an iGPU, try your monitor on both the outputs on the graphics cards as well as on the motherboard. When trying the iGPU, if the board has VGA out, try that too instead of just digital out. (Discovered by @evening) Make sure all connectors and cables are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Make sure your RAM, CPU and GPU are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Remove riser cables between GPU and motherboard. If this solves the issue, try lowering your PCIe version/speed in the bios to PCIe 3 or lower (Thanks @problemsolver) If the motherboard you're using has debug LEDs, check the error code and consult the motherboard manual to see what it means. If you have a debug speaker connected to the motherboard, note the beep sequence and consult the motherboard manual or this thread to see what it means. Try clearing your CMOS. Try booting your computer with only a motherboard, CPU and one stick of RAM attached (if you don't have an iGPU, plug in your GPU as well 😉 ). Make sure your GPU works (if you have a dedicated one), try it in another computer. Make sure your RAM works, try it another computer. Make sure the RAM is compatible with your CPU and your motherboard.  
If the PC still doesn't POST after this, create a new thread and, as explained here, post IN FULL DETAIL about your problem. Make sure you include the following:
System configuration Troubleshooting steps you already did Any additional information that may be relevant.  
Lastly, if you find any mistakes/grammatical errors, inaccuracies or missing steps in this post, please do post them in a comment so I can fix it.
 
 
PS: @TheXDS has posted how you can do some more in depth checking of the internal circuitry of you PSU. The only thing you need is a multimeter or potentiometer (if you're oldschool :D). You can find his post at http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/42440-readme-how-to-respond-to-a-no-post-or-no-power-up-situation/?p=4561958

It'll be fine. I'm running ZFS+nextcloud+Plex+linux iso acquisition system+borg backup+docker swarm on an Intel e5620. Idle power with 8 HDDs of the R520 server it is housed in is about 90W, so there's that.
 
The only thing I wouldn't expect with that specific CPU is Plex transcoding. I can barely transcode a single 1080p stream on mine and it has double the cores and quadruple the threads of yours.
 
Simple file serving though will not be a problem. My system basically runs at idle except for plex.
 
Edit to add: if you have it lying around, just set it up and test? At worst, you'll spend an evening of tinkering with computers.

REMINDER: this thread is not to ask questions about your PC. Please create a NEW thread if you still have issues after going through this thread.
 
So, you've put together your brand new, shining rig. You plug in the power cord and push the button. Nothing happens. What now? The answer depends on what is happening:
 
 
The machine doesn't do anything. No beeps, LEDs or spinning fans.
Check if your power cable is firmly plugged in on both ends (you would be surprised how many issues this resolves) Check if the power supply (PSU) has a button to cut the power to the machine. Check if this button is in the position denoted with ON or I Check if EVERY power cable is plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Check if the power button is installed correctly (consult your motherboard manual) Try shorting out the pins you connect the power button to manually. If this powers on your system, you have a faulty power button. Check with a device of which you know that it works if the power outlet you're using is actually providing power. If this hasn't solved the problem, check if your PSU isn't dead. To do this, you can follow these steps:
Unplug your power cord and/or flip the switch on the back of the PSU in the position denoted with OFF or 0 Unplug every connector coming from your PSU (this is very important) Using a bent paperclip, short out the green wire on the 24 pin header with any of the black wires, like so. If you have a PSU that shuts down its fan under low load, or a PSU that is fanless, connect something small like a hard drive to it. Plug in your power cord and/or flip the switch on the back of the PSU in the position denoted with ON or I If the PSU does NOT power on (the fan/hard drive you connected should start spinning) after following these steps, your PSU is in all likelyhood defective. Request an RMA.
If the PSU DOES power on, then the problem is most likely your motherboard.
 
 
The machine does power up, but my screen remains black (no POST).
Make sure your BIOS version is compatible with the CPU generation you're trying to run in your motherboard, you can consult the manual or the manufacturer's website about this. Check if EVERY power cable is connected. Auxiliary power connectors included. Make sure the cable coming from your monitor is attached securely to the graphics card. Also make sure it is securely attached to the monitor itself. Make sure your PSU is powerful enough to power your complete system. Try booting the system with only a monitor but no other peripherals connected. (Thanks @Steven Schaefer) Make sure your monitor works by testing it on a different computer. If you have both a dedicated GPU and an iGPU, try your monitor on both the outputs on the graphics cards as well as on the motherboard. When trying the iGPU, if the board has VGA out, try that too instead of just digital out. (Discovered by @evening) Make sure all connectors and cables are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Make sure your RAM, CPU and GPU are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Remove riser cables between GPU and motherboard. If this solves the issue, try lowering your PCIe version/speed in the bios to PCIe 3 or lower (Thanks @problemsolver) If the motherboard you're using has debug LEDs, check the error code and consult the motherboard manual to see what it means. If you have a debug speaker connected to the motherboard, note the beep sequence and consult the motherboard manual or this thread to see what it means. Try clearing your CMOS. Try booting your computer with only a motherboard, CPU and one stick of RAM attached (if you don't have an iGPU, plug in your GPU as well 😉 ). Make sure your GPU works (if you have a dedicated one), try it in another computer. Make sure your RAM works, try it another computer. Make sure the RAM is compatible with your CPU and your motherboard.  
If the PC still doesn't POST after this, create a new thread and, as explained here, post IN FULL DETAIL about your problem. Make sure you include the following:
System configuration Troubleshooting steps you already did Any additional information that may be relevant.  
Lastly, if you find any mistakes/grammatical errors, inaccuracies or missing steps in this post, please do post them in a comment so I can fix it.
 
 
PS: @TheXDS has posted how you can do some more in depth checking of the internal circuitry of you PSU. The only thing you need is a multimeter or potentiometer (if you're oldschool :D). You can find his post at http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/42440-readme-how-to-respond-to-a-no-post-or-no-power-up-situation/?p=4561958

Thanks!!! if it wasn't for Linus I wouldn't even know Noctua exist, the CPU and PSU fans I installed are amazing!!! I have an asus gaming laptop with an RTX3070 that sounds like an OG Playstation 4 trying to run the newest call of duty game, unlike the PC that is quiet at all times :') I'm happy with my budget PC build!

Welcome to the Noctua PSU club!

I propose an addition to the no POST list:
 
Try disconnecting all peripheral devices including your keyboard. I just had a situation where the PC wouldn't boot until I disconnected the keyboard. This is technically covered by item 12 on the list, but I didn't think of the keyboard in that situation because that tip is more focused on removing the hard drive and GPU, so removing the keyboard as well didn't occur to me.
 
See this thread where I was helped with my problem:
 

There's many websites in LMG's portfolio. Off the top of my head: linustechtips.com, linusmediagroup.com, floatplane.com, lttstore.com... Probably missing something too. There's work ongoing on the new labs website.
 
Depending on which site you're talking about, you're talking about different teams. However, all jobs are listed on https://linusmediagroup.com/jobs
 
Remember though, working at LMG is still working. While everything seems fun-and-games on-camera, be ready to work your ass off 😉
 
Good luck.
 
Edit: ltxexpo.com

REMINDER: this thread is not to ask questions about your PC. Please create a NEW thread if you still have issues after going through this thread.
 
So, you've put together your brand new, shining rig. You plug in the power cord and push the button. Nothing happens. What now? The answer depends on what is happening:
 
 
The machine doesn't do anything. No beeps, LEDs or spinning fans.
Check if your power cable is firmly plugged in on both ends (you would be surprised how many issues this resolves) Check if the power supply (PSU) has a button to cut the power to the machine. Check if this button is in the position denoted with ON or I Check if EVERY power cable is plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Check if the power button is installed correctly (consult your motherboard manual) Try shorting out the pins you connect the power button to manually. If this powers on your system, you have a faulty power button. Check with a device of which you know that it works if the power outlet you're using is actually providing power. If this hasn't solved the problem, check if your PSU isn't dead. To do this, you can follow these steps:
Unplug your power cord and/or flip the switch on the back of the PSU in the position denoted with OFF or 0 Unplug every connector coming from your PSU (this is very important) Using a bent paperclip, short out the green wire on the 24 pin header with any of the black wires, like so. If you have a PSU that shuts down its fan under low load, or a PSU that is fanless, connect something small like a hard drive to it. Plug in your power cord and/or flip the switch on the back of the PSU in the position denoted with ON or I If the PSU does NOT power on (the fan/hard drive you connected should start spinning) after following these steps, your PSU is in all likelyhood defective. Request an RMA.
If the PSU DOES power on, then the problem is most likely your motherboard.
 
 
The machine does power up, but my screen remains black (no POST).
Make sure your BIOS version is compatible with the CPU generation you're trying to run in your motherboard, you can consult the manual or the manufacturer's website about this. Check if EVERY power cable is connected. Auxiliary power connectors included. Make sure the cable coming from your monitor is attached securely to the graphics card. Also make sure it is securely attached to the monitor itself. Make sure your PSU is powerful enough to power your complete system. Try booting the system with only a monitor but no other peripherals connected. (Thanks @Steven Schaefer) Make sure your monitor works by testing it on a different computer. If you have both a dedicated GPU and an iGPU, try your monitor on both the outputs on the graphics cards as well as on the motherboard. When trying the iGPU, if the board has VGA out, try that too instead of just digital out. (Discovered by @evening) Make sure all connectors and cables are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Make sure your RAM, CPU and GPU are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Remove riser cables between GPU and motherboard. If this solves the issue, try lowering your PCIe version/speed in the bios to PCIe 3 or lower (Thanks @problemsolver) If the motherboard you're using has debug LEDs, check the error code and consult the motherboard manual to see what it means. If you have a debug speaker connected to the motherboard, note the beep sequence and consult the motherboard manual or this thread to see what it means. Try clearing your CMOS. Try booting your computer with only a motherboard, CPU and one stick of RAM attached (if you don't have an iGPU, plug in your GPU as well 😉 ). Make sure your GPU works (if you have a dedicated one), try it in another computer. Make sure your RAM works, try it another computer. Make sure the RAM is compatible with your CPU and your motherboard.  
If the PC still doesn't POST after this, create a new thread and, as explained here, post IN FULL DETAIL about your problem. Make sure you include the following:
System configuration Troubleshooting steps you already did Any additional information that may be relevant.  
Lastly, if you find any mistakes/grammatical errors, inaccuracies or missing steps in this post, please do post them in a comment so I can fix it.
 
 
PS: @TheXDS has posted how you can do some more in depth checking of the internal circuitry of you PSU. The only thing you need is a multimeter or potentiometer (if you're oldschool :D). You can find his post at http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/42440-readme-how-to-respond-to-a-no-post-or-no-power-up-situation/?p=4561958

If you are interested in developing and/or running the forum, PM @colonel_mortis
 
Though I recommend dropping a bit from the attitude. Being snarky may be fine when you are the one choosing customers, but not when you want to be part of the team.