Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by -rascal-

  1. Did you remove the RAM when swapping out your CPU cooler? Did you get to try all four RAM slots? Did you check the problematic RAM slot(s) for any bent / warp / damaged gold contact pins? I am suspecting possibly: Bent / damage CPU pin(s), affected the memory slots Damaged DIMM (memory) slot, when removing / reinstalling RAM
  2. Use HWiNFO, and see if it will gives better temperature reading descriptions. Depending on the motherboard, HWMonitor can either just give you Temp #1 ~ #99, or specifically say CPU / Socket / Motherboard / CPU-NB / VRM, etc, etc.
  3. We have a LTT overclocking database.... Cinebench database / scoreboard, too... (which should have CPU overclock numbers too)
  4. Make sure AURA is COMPETELY uninstalled. It will / may leave behind some leftover folders + files in your C Drive, which can still cause Mystic Light to not work properly. You may need to manually delete them.
  5. Only certain ASUS boards, apparently (according to the make of HWiNFO), have temperature sensor(s) on the VRMs. Not sure what CPU (PECI) is, but seems to be mirror one of the other temperature readings. Just keep in mind you should be looking at the per-core temperatures, as well at the CPU package temperature reading as well. VR VCC Temperature -- is the temperature reading coming straight from the voltage regulator. This will depend on WHICH voltage regulator it is coming from, though -- NOT necessarily from the CPU VRMs. As for the T_Sensor, I am not sure what that is, but I am assuming somewhere on the motherboard (e.g. PCI-E slot or something). I am also getting a temperature reading of 26*C ~ 28*C on my ASUS B250M motherboard (work PC).
  6. See what you can find, but either DDR3-1333 / 1600 / 1866 MHz should be good. Latency timings of 9-9-9-24 is pretty standard / common for DDR3-1333 ~ 1866 MHz. Once you go up in density (e.g. 8GB per stick vs 4GB per stick), or higher frequency (e.g. 1866MHz+), then you start to see a combination of 9/10/10 latency numbers. Examples:
  7. I don't remember exactly, but JEDEC fail-safe standard is either DDR3-1066 or DDR3-1333 MHz. DDR3-1600 9-9-9-24-2T 1.5V ~ 1.60V is pretty standard, you'll find some kits rated for 1.65V even. I wouldn't worry about latency unless it is really loose (e.g. DDR3-1600 with CL11 timings or something).
  8. I just didn't want to leave some of the DIMM slots empty ._. On topic, 16GB should be enough for a couple more years. 5 years? That's projecting a little too far to say. Just like in 2010 ~ 2013 when 8GB DDR3 "was plenty" ... yet 2018 ~ 2020 comes around.
  9. Extract the file / folder (e.g. unzip / decompress it), and put ONLY the BIOS file onto the USB stick -- don't put it inside a folder. Also use one of the USB ports on the BACK of the motherboard. XMP should also adjust the DRAM voltage for you. If not, 1.35V ~ 1.40V is usually the typical for most DDR4-3000+ XMP profiles.
  10. You should be fine...unless the Samsung software does a check to make sure you are using a Samsung SSD first...otherwise it blocks you from using the software. I don't see why you need to secure erase a *NEW* SSD, especially when you are installing Windows on it. The Windows install process ALREADY formats & wipes the drive clean... Unless you are selling the SSD, or giving it away, and don't want your data to be scalped / recovered, I don't see the need to secure erase it. Doing that also wears the SSD memory cells out. Not a problem if you do it once or twice, but too many times, too frequently, will put unnecessary wear on the SSD.
  11. 4 x 16GB (total of 64GB) is supported by the board. Does it work if you tried with 1 or 2 sticks of the Corsair Vengeance memory? Three short beeps, consecutively, usual means memory error. Did you make sure all four sticks were properly seated / locked into each memory slot? What is the model of your HP PC? You may need to update the motherboard BIOS / firmware for the board to properly support 64GB of memory.
  12. Not ALL motherboards will have the RGB header, etc. If it is a budget motherboard, to hit a target price, features will be removed, and some corner will be cut....where as a $300+ motherboard, they can put EVERYTHING on. The AsRock B450M Pro4 HAS RGB and ARGB headers. What computer case / chassis is that? I am not able to identify it just by the picture...do you have the brand + model?
  13. You can get replacement parts through Corsair. You probably NEED to too, since it's THEIR cooler. Contact Corsair customer service...they probably just send you replacement set of mounting hardware for free (or pay $3 shipping or whatever).
  14. Remember, applications takes up space too...e.g. Spotify, Chrome, etc. Then you also got drivers. Steam games, even if it's only 2 or 3, can eat up a huge amount -- given a single game can be 30GB+ these days. Not just folders on your desktop....the Pictures folder, and Documents folder not on Desktop, etc. Use WinDirStat, as @emosun suggested, or TreeSize Free, or anything similar. It should give you an answer.
  15. I was just being too generic, my bad. I should've said mainstream LGA 775 / 115x / 1200 sockets. You see OP later then specifies he/she is only LGA 1151, which requires the included H100i backplate.
  16. One motherboard' setting won't necessarily transfer 100% to another motherboard. The self-relearning process, and motherboard PCB layout / topology are different. Do you have the latest BIOS on your new X570 board? Memory Controller is within the CPU, and is not on the motherboard.
  17. That MWE White / MWE White 230V is a Tier-C unit on the LTT PSU Tier / Quality list. I'd recommend that you swap the PSU too if you decide to get a higher-end / higher power draw PSU. Think of it this way, though: You can always transplant the graphics card + PSU into your new system...if you decide to upgrade from the i5-6600K + H110 motherboard.
  18. Are you matching their graphics settings 100%? What is your Draw Distance / Population Density / Population Variety set to? FXAA / MSAA / TXAA settings on / off ? VSync on / off ?
  19. No, look at the pictures. The "stand-offs" the H100i uses have screw threads on BOTH ends. They are also different length and size compared to motherboard stand-offs.
  20. Which version of the H100i do you have? What are you missing from the parts list? You don't have the stand-offs? You need those...because if you are on Intel socket it's backplate <--> stand-offs <--> CPU block <--> thumbscrews If you are missing CRITICAL parts, the the CPU water block is not going to mount to the actual CPU / motherboard properly...or at all...
  21. Depends on what socket you are using, and WHICH version of the H100i you are using. For Intel LGA 775 / 115x / 1200 sockets, you need the backplate...how else can you mount the CPU block onto the CPU?? Did you buy a new H100i, or is it used? If it's new, then you should exchange it for a new one that ISN'T missing any of the included parts. Bring it back to where you bought it from.
  22. Doom 2016 and Doom Eternal are actually pretty well optimized games. GTX 1050 Ti can actually still play at stable 50 ~ 60 FPS...of course with settings turned down. Even if you grab something like a RTX 2060 Super / RTX 2070 Super / Radeon 5700 / 5700 XT, Doom will not be a problem. You can easily max the game out, 200+ FPS ... assuming the i5-6600K is not holding the GPU back much. You need to find out what the PSU specifications are...at least the model of the "500W Cooler Master" PSU. For your current set-up, it should be fine, because the GTX 1050 Ti is pretty lower power. Same with a i5-6600K at stock, with no overclocking. Power consumption will go up pretty significantly with a graphics card upgrade. CPU + GPU basically takes account of 75%+ of overall system power draw. If the Cooler Master 500W PSU is decent quality, you may be able to keep it, otherwise, you'll need to upgrade with the graphics card upgrade.
  23. Doesn't matter. 4+4 is just a modular / flexible version of the solid 8-pin. Some motherboards require 8-pins, some require only 4-pin, while some heavy overclocking boards are 8 + 4 pins. Oh...just checked the MSI P55A-G55 user manual... That is an 'APS LED.' Basically...indicator on how many CPU power phases (the VRMs) the CPU is using on the motherboard. That old board had a 3+1 VRM phase set-up.... 3 being dedicated for the CPU, and 1 for the memory. Just to show how many out of 3 is being used. (Compared to high-end board these days...that have 10+ phases dedicated for the CPU alone)
  24. You see the 3950X capping out at ~4.0 GHz. The 3950X is not overclocked, running a stock, and auto turbo boosting to 4.0 GHz from the 3.5 GHz Base clock. You are overclocking all cores to 4.5 GHz, and using 1.33V (what is your CPU LLC setting? Is it overshooting higher than 1.33V?) That is a little high for Ryzen 3000-series CPUs for 2/47 use. Supposedly, ~1.325V is the maximum safe high-current load, and beyond will degrade the CPU over time.
  25. No SATA ports should be disabled by default...unless your friend disabled it when installing Windows onto the NVMe SSD, and forgot to re-enable it. The NVMe slots on this board do no share bandwidth with any of the SATA ports, only certain PCI-E slot(s). Is the SATA HDD detected in the BIOS, now with the SATA ports enabled? Have you tried different moving it to a different SATA port, using a different SATA data cable, and/or different SATA power cable?