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Everything posted by -rascal-

  1. I wouldn't push the SOC up to 1.2V... Going up to 1.4V or 1.45V on the DRAM Voltage would be fine, though. You can try that, and see if you can get it stable. Given how you can run all 32GB at 2933 MHz, that most definitely sounds like the CPU and/or motherboard being the limitation. Suspect the weak IMC within the Ryzen 2700/
  2. Are you looking at TDP, or actual GPU power consumption? TDP wise... GTX 680 (2012) -- 195W GTX 780 (2013) -- 250W GTX 980 (2014) -- 165W GTX 1080 (2016) -- 180W RTX 2080 (2018) -- 215W RTX 2080 Super (2019) -- 250W RTX 3080 (2020) -- 320W Delta (2016 ~ 2020) = ~155W
  3. Where are you located? In the US, NewEgg still has the RMx 750W in stock for $139.99 USD. Sure, price went up, but if you check the history of the price log, when not on sale, it sits at around $110 ~ $120 USD. With Trump doing the 25% import tax, and in addition with COVID-19, price will probably stay up into 2021.
  4. Well the RTX 3000 series is just not very power efficient. That said, it has a lot more CUDA cores and RT cores compared to the RTX 2000 series. If the RTX 4000 series is going to use the same node / technology as the RTX 3000 series, power should go back down. You should be covered with a ~850W. I don't see the need to get a 1000W ..... unless the GPU somehow pulls 600W ~ 700W all on its own without physical mods (e.g. shunt mod).
  5. So your RAM is NOT running at full DDR4 3600 MHz speed. It is running at 2400 MHz. You need to go into BIOS and enable A-XMP setting. (Reinstalling Windows 10 should not erase BIOS settings....so you might be running at 2400 MHz even BEFORE wiping your PC)
  6. Use CPU-Z. Make sure your new Windows 10 install is fully up-to-date. Make take a few hours for automatic update to finish downloading + installing if you used an old Windows 10 install image. You SHOULD be up to at least Windows 10 version 2004, maybe 20H2. Make sure you have the LATEST drivers for your: Motherboard (chipset, audio, LAN, etc) -- https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B450M-PRO-VDH-MAX#down-driver&Win10 64 Graphics Card -- https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/drivers/
  7. Nothing like this? If not, use GPU-Z like I said in my top comment.
  8. Sometimes Task Manager will read the RAM frequency properly, some times it won't. But with my work PC, it is running at DDR4-2400 MHz. To be 100% sure, you can use CPU-Z, and check the 'Memory' menu. CPU-Z shows ACTUAL memory frequency, and NOT effective memory frequency. So DDR4-3600 = 1800 MHz actual frequency. So here...for me, CPU-Z showing ~1200 MHz.
  9. The frequency (GHz) doesn't get divided into the number of cores. When you say 0.8 GHz, it's 0.8 GHz for all cores. Ryzen 5600X is 6-core 12-threads, and with a 3.7 GHz Base Clock. All 6-cores are running at 3.7 GHz .... not 0.6166 GHz per core, for a total of 3.7 GHz. @Vishera's answer would be correct.
  10. @YukiSanz Onboard graphics ONLY if it is an Ryzen APU that has CPU + GPU on-die. Ryzen CPU does not have an GPU on-die. You NEED a graphics card. The Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite DOES have the Q-Flash Plus feature. The BIOS flash button is not on the back of the motherboard, but is a white button along the bottom of the motherboard. Plug your USB stick into the blue-white USB port on the back that says 'BIOS' above it. Follow Gigabyte's steps on how to use Q-Flash Plus .... to the word. Make sure the BIOS file is unzipped, r
  11. You have a couple options now: 1) Try a Beta BIOS, and see if it helps 2) Stick with DDR4-3466 for now, and try DDR4-3600 with a later BIOS release. Ryzen 5000-seires is still quite new, so there will be more BIOS fixes / releases. 3) Stick with DDR4-3466 with the XMP / DOCP timings and call it a day 4) Stick with DDR4-3466, and start manually tweaking the memory timings. DDR4-3600 CL18-22-22-42 isn't great to begin with, but see if you can lower them anymore.
  12. Oh you're right, The Z490 Taichi has the 'stupid fan.' Not sure if they fixed that yet... Their Taichi board on on AMD and Z390 was on-point....they dropped the ball with Z490. @Crazy Sketti I'd go with a ASUS / Gigabyte / MSi board instead for Z490 then. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1yPS3hj_K7EPT4RBWCyjdKNP56pnwDz-IgBc0975-FUg/edit#gid=0
  13. 'Taichi' is ASRock's higher tier board. I think it is comparable to ASUS' higher end Strix F/E boards, and even mid-level ROG Maximus level. Believe it or not, ASRock is a spin-off of ASUS....but this was back in like early 2000's. Eventually they broke off, and became their own.
  14. Just like nVidia graphics cards, where the drivers are supplied by nVidia themselves. Doesn't matter if it is an EVGA / MSi / ASUS made card. Same thing for AMD graphics cards -- get it directly AMD's website. Doesn't matter if it is a Gigabyte 5600 XT, Sapphire, MSi, XFX, or PowerColor... https://www.amd.com/en/support Uninstall your old / existing drivers off the computer first. Go into Windows Settings >> Apps to uninstall old Radeon drivers. Reboot. Install new drivers. Reboot. Done.
  15. Fair, Beta BIOS can sometime can contain some unknown issues. I'd try the manual change first. That would be the safer next step. If that works, THEN you can decide to try a Beta BIOS or not. (Given ASUS has 2x Beta BIOS, they should eventually release an official non-Beta soon)
  16. Well... you are able to bump to Core Voltage up a little bit to get 5.1 GHz stable, and the VRMs are still within reasonable temperature with your current set-up.... Might as well try it. For future reference, motherboard VRM tier lists, and things exist. LIke... For Intel Z490 Boards https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1yPS3hj_K7EPT4RBWCyjdKNP56pnwDz-IgBc0975-FUg/edit#gid=0 Intel 300-series Boards https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1IY6W6YhyjnzSvi8BqEqiK1xykSiTDF2Lt1FO8cNhI6I/edit#gid=585498417 AMD Socket AM4 Boards
  17. ASUS D.O.C.P = DRAM OverClock Profile If you enabled DOCP, but your computer reboots are few times, and throws you back into BIOS, then the DOCP setting is not stable with your CPU + motherboard combo. What version BIOS firmware are you using with your motherboard? ASUS released 3x BIOS within the last 2 months. All three mentions "Improved DRAM compatibility" and "System performance and stability" in the notes. Version 2802 -- Oct-23-2020 Version 2812 -- Nov-05-2020 *Beta BIOS* Version 2816 -- Nov-25-2020 *Beta BIOS* Wh
  18. Gaming will load the CPU and RAM differently then a straight up torture test. From the sounds of it, your 5.1 GHZ all-core OC is not 110% stable. I'd try bumping the voltage up to 1.32V ~ 1.325V, and try again. You can continue to use Prime95, but best to run OTHER tests with Prime95 / Cinebench R20 or R23. Couple games you play, couple passes of 3DMark Time Spy / Fire Strike, etc. If you notice the Core Voltage drooping down too much from the fixed 1.316V, increase your CPU LLC setting up 1 or 2 levels, and check again. The i7-10700K can suck quite
  19. Apparently it isn't about the number of sticks, but rather if the DIMM modules are Single-Rank or Dual-Rank.
  20. You can look at aftermarket cooling options. Use something like a NZXT G12 bracket, and use an AIO (single 120mm / 140mm should be good) to cool the card. No need to go 240mm / 360mm / 480mm AIO...that's overkill. https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-g12-white Or an aftermarket cooler...like something from Arctic Cooling, for example. The compact ones should be good enough...the 3x fans ones are overkill for a GTX 1060 IMO. https://www.arctic.ac/en/products/cooling/gpu-cooler/
  21. Run with JUST the new 16GB kit. If it fails, then it might be a faulty stick or kit. If you cannot even get them to run stable with DOCP disabled (e.g. stock JEDEC DDR4-2133), then that's another sign a stick, or kit is faulty. 4x DIMMs is a lot harder in the Integrated Memory Controller (IMC) than 2x DIMMs. That is especially true with Zen and Zen+ CPUs, as the IMC was picky, and rather weak. That was greatly improved with Zen 2 (Ryzen 3000-series), and not even more on Zen 3 (Ryzen 5000-series).
  22. Another use with the same EVGA GTX 1060 Gaming reported similar 82*C/83*C high temperature issues. (Linking the thread for reference, please do not revive a thread from 2016). I think it's just a bad cooler vs the 2-fan ACX cooler. The heatsink on the GTX 1060 Gaming is tiny...
  23. The board should have 12v RGB, and 5v ARGB headers. I can SEE them in the high-res motherboard photos... Even mentioned them in the motherboard spec page... Looks like the MSi MPG Z390 Pro Carbon.
  24. Your PCPartPicker list is set to 'private.' We can't see it. What case it that? Does it have a full tempered glass front? If so, that will hit your temperature performance pretty hard. You can remove the side panel, and run / stress the system, and see if there is temperature. If you see a 5*C+ change, it's most likely airflow related.